Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera Installation - 2013 Hyundai Sonata

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How to Install the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera on a 2013 Hyundai Sonata


Today on this 2013 Hyundai Sonata, we're going to install part number HM50002. This is the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera and Hitch Aligner System. All right, first I'll go ahead and show you the location of the backup camera itself. It sits right here where a license plate typically goes. This fits down onto the trunk lid and then your license plate will fit on top. It has a groove for your license plate to slide into and you'll be able to reuse the original fasteners. We need to get our vehicle ready to install our camera. We need to go ahead and open the trunk and then we're going to need access behind the trunk liner here to wiring to the reverse lights, which are located on the trunk lid, because that's where our camera gets power from.

Okay Let's go ahead and remove this liner here. Looks like there's a series of plastic fasteners that we have to unscrew. All right, now there are two screws hidden up here, and you can go ahead and pop the cover loose with a screwdriver. There's two Phillips-head screws to remove. We'll go ahead and work our liner off here.

Okay, now our backup camera's going to need this wire ran to the inside. We're going to draw a 7/16 hole through the plastic here, and also through the steel of the trunk lid as well on the inside. We're going to start off with a small pilot hole first. We're using a 1/8 inch drill bit. Can't get quite a straight angle on it, so we'll just work our way up to our final hole size. To help clean up our appearance going through the plastic here, we decided to go ahead and install a grommet right here.

Now, what we're going to do is take a bushing and put it over the wire of our camera and push the wire through to the inside. Now the snap bushing we're using is part number SWC8055. Then, we'll snap the bushing into place. Sometimes the catches interfere with the thick part of the cable going through, so this is how we do the second 00:02:33. Let's go ahead and mount our camera to the trunk using the screws for the license plate. We'll just snug them down for now.

At the end of the installment when everything is working the way you want it, then probably would be a good idea to use your favorite sealant to seal up this hole here. Let's go the the inside now. Now, we also drilled through our sheet metal as well. It's kind of hard to see, but we ran our cable through, and we'll go ahead and take another grommet and we ran that one to 9/16 as well, and we'll go ahead and run it down and push it into place. Make sure you have your hole drilled out completely to a 9/16 or maybe a little bit larger, just to help work it in because it's sheet metal, not curved where the hole is. All right, we'll go ahead and take a long wire harness, with this in and connect it to the same end with a seven pole wire harness. We'll plug that into our camera cable. We'll line up the arrows and push them together. All right, now a camera gets power from the reverse light on the car. This is one of the wires from the ground, and one of these wires is going to be powered from reverse lights. Obviously, this is not going to work because it doesn't have a seven pole OEM towing package on it, so we'll just cut our wire short and make our connections to the light. All right, we don't need that. We'll move the wires inaudible 00:04:20 now, and we'll see which wire will be for our reverse light. Now, our reverse light is this socket right here. When we tested our wires, we found out the light gray wire is our power wire. We'll go ahead and pull out the wires a little bit so we can work on them and we'll also remove the sheath around them because we need access to the wires. All right, now when we tested for the wires, we found out that the blue wire is going to be a reverse light lead, so we'll go ahead and peel back the electric tape and get access to it. All right, now to make our connection to the wires, we're going to be using part number 05730-5. This is a 22-18 gauge butt connectors. We'll go ahead and cut our wire that we're going to use, strip back both ends, then we'll take one of our butt connectors and put it on the end of the wire. Now, we'll go back to our wire harness for our camera, split the wires in half, and we'll strip the red wire because that will be a power from a reverse light. Go ahead and wrap these two guys together, and then put them into the butt connector, and crimp them down. Now, out black wire is going to be our ground. Now our trunk's on a hinge, so it doesn't really provide a good ground to the rest of the body, but the black wire here is a ground for the light assembly. We can verify that on the socket here, where a gray wire was actually the power going into the light and your black had to be our ground. We'll go ahead and use another butt connector and connect right here for our ground. Now we've got our connections made, we can actually test at this point. We'll take our monitor and plug its end of the cable to the other end. Like before, match up arrows to arrows and push it together. Okay, with an extra set of hands go ahead and start the car, put it in reverse, make sure your parking break's engaged, and verify the car can't go backwards as you put it in reverse, then check the monitor. All right, now at this point we'll go ahead and just zip tie our wires, take up our slack. The zip ties don't come with the kit, but any time you do electrical it's always a good idea to get extra zip ties. Okay, then we'll go ahead and follow our factory wiring all the way down and around to the inside. Definitely need more zip ties for this. We'll follow the factory attachment point. We'll leave our camera alone for now, and we'll go ahead and reinstall the interior cover of our trunk lid. We'll also disconnect our camera, we'll start running our black cable up towards the front of the vehicle and towards the dashboard. What I'm going to do is just take my cable here, and I'm just going to hide it behind the panel. All right, now at this point we'll go ahead and just zip tie our wires, we'll go ahead and work this behind the panel and down. We'll go ahead and fold the seat down and run the rest of this cable alongside the seat and down towards the bottom, and then along towards the front. Okay, we're just going to hide our wire and tuck it behind the seat, and actually there's a hinge right here, we might be able to route it underneath the hinge. There you go. You have to feel for it, but it goes underneath. We'll just go ahead and tuck it underneath the seat cushions. Our seat belt should ride over the top of it. Our seat, we'll go ahead and hit the plastic trim again. We'll just start, we'll pry it up gently and just push it underneath of it. All right, now you can use a large screwdriver, but I'm using a trim panel tool to help pry up the plastic. A narrow, flat screwdriver might stress out the plastic. All right, now we've got it wired to this point but it's going to be tough to run it through here, so we'll just go ahead and loosen up this panel. There are some snaps in here and in here that we can loosen up and pop it loose. Okay, now we'll go ahead and remove the threshold up here as well, we've got to pop loose. There's a series of snaps you can get access to pop them loose. We're actually going to use another pull wire. In this case, our pull wire's a piece of old airline tubing. This also could be a stiff piece of wire. Okay, we'll attach our cable to the pull wire with some electric tape, and we'll pull it back through. All right, we got it through, definitely wasn't easy. We'll go ahead and take off our tape and continue on. We'll go ahead and pull out our slack, then we'll put our panels back into place. Go ahead and continue on for our cable, we'll hide it underneath the seal here, and work our way up. We'll go ahead and take the door seal, pry it away. We'll take a wire, tuck it underneath there into the gap in between. We'll put our seal back into place. Okay. Now, at this point you want to decide where you want to install the monitor. In this case, we're going to install ours right here. We'll go ahead and put these two back together and hide it behind our seal here and our plastic. Now we won't have any extra cable needed hanging out. inaudible 00:10:49 started up again in the top, and then we'll take our extra cable and push it in behind the pocket here behind the kick panel. Okay, one other thing we can do to tight our wire inside here, is go ahead and remove this panel. It just pops loose, there's just three connection points. Hide it in the pocket there, get our door seal to hold the extra wire up there. Panel back in. We'll go ahead and push our seal in for good, and then put the threshold back in. All right, let's go ahead and clean off the area for our adhesive. Once you're satisfied with the placement, go ahead and remove the backing to the adhesive and just go ahead and push it into place.Now, we've got to mount all this, just a small Phillips screwdriver will tighten it back up. All right, let's maneuver it in our final position. We'll go ahead and take off the covering and we'll be good to go. All right, we'll go ahead and back up to our trailer now. We're going to get closer, there's going to be some beeps that'll tell us how close we're getting to our trailer. The faster it beeps, the closer we get. That'll finish it for our install of part number HM50002. This is the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera and Hitch Aligner System on this 2013 Hyundai Sonata. .


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