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Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2007 Jeep Wranger Unlimited

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2007 Jeep Wranger Unlimited


Today on our 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Hopkins InSIGHT. This is a proportional flex mount trailer brake controller that's going to work great for one up to four axles. Part number is HM47297. We're also going to be using the universal installation kit for trailer brake controller. This is going to offer both a 7 way RV plug and a 4 pull flat. Part number on that is ETBC7. As a great feature we're going to have a constant monitor that's going between our brake controller and our trailer to let us know everything's connected properly. As you can see as I plug in my trailer a small red light's going to come on indicating it's connected.

We can travel down the road, everything's fine, if something we're to happen with that connection, you'll see that lights going to go off indicating to us that we need to get that addressed. The InSIGHTs going to give us a great way to mount our brake controller in our vehicle without having one of the big boxes mounted under the dash or something. We have 4 foot cables that run from both our flex control as well as our flex display. As long as we have that box mounted within four feet of where we want our controls we're going to be in great shape. You can see we have our manual override lever. That's going to allow us to instantly start applying brakes to our trailer without having to brake our vehicle in the event of an emergency situation. You see the more pressure applied to override lever the braking power we'll be sending to the rear of our trailer. Our up and down area is the way we can adjust our gain that's going to be the maximum amount of power going back to our trailer.

In lighter loads we can turn that down some. As our loads get heavier or our roads get steeper we can increase this to give us more braking power. A little be tougher to see, here on the opposite side, is going to be a button labeled "S". This is going to allow us to adjust the sensitivity of the system. That's going to be how aggressively and how quickly our brakes come one.

We have several different setting available so we'll be able to select through and really fine tune our trailer for our driving style, road conditions, or weight. Our gain adjusts in increments of five, you can see, going both down and up. Our smart box, it's going to allow us a wide variety of mounting locations as long as we keep it within ten degrees of the horizontal plane so we don't tilt it too far past side to side, we'll have 360 degrees of full vertical plane rotation that we can mount it on. The InSIGHT is a proportional brake controller, this means that we're not going to have to wait on a time delayed brake controller to kick in. This uses a sensor, Veriadin 00:02:54 or SmartBox, and as we apply the brakes in our tow vehicle it's going to sense that and then start applying the brakes to our trailer proportionately. In an emergency stop situation, we're going to get full power back to our trailer as quickly as possible. In the more slower kind of stops, where we're just stopping for traffic and things like that, it's going to send it back there slower and much less aggressively so we don't get jerky stops.

Our built monitor is going to make sure we don't have any wiring problems and also protects both our brake controller and our vehicle. As far as customer reviews go this is a really highly rated brake controller. Customers seem to like the availability of mounting your items where you want them, not being limited to a particular mounting options that we sometimes get with a standard brake controller.Speaker 2: To begin our installation we're first going to attach our included bracket to the back of our plug. We'll use the provided hardware. It's going to be four flat head screws. You can always pull that cover off to make it a little easier. We'll just drop them in the four holes that are here in the front. Then we can take our nuts with the serrated lock washer, we're just going to be threading those right on the back in all four of our locations. We're going to take a flathead screwdriver and we'll just tighten those screws down, making this nice and secure. We're going to be using a universal long bracket, this is part number 18136 basically what we're going to do is you just have to go around that main cross brace here at the rear of the Jeep. Then attach it here. I'm just going to angle this up. Then we can use the mounting holes here to mount our bracket to. That should have our seventh hole right back here where it will be easily accessible. I want it to be about as close to level with the bottom of the bumper so I'm just going to use a little level off my bumper then I'll go down about a quarter of an inch from there. That will be my mark where I bend it so I'll just want to put a straight edge across there. I like my marks at about two and a quarter, so I'm going to mark that on each side. I'm just going to use a vice here on the shop to hold this as I apply a little bit of force to bend that. I'm going to leave it just short of 90 that way it'll give our plug a slight angle down. I'm going to bring our bracket right up around and place the large hose clamp that going to come with it on that rear structure. Then we'll just start it here. You keep that bolt tipped up it'll kind of hold it. Then as we tip our bolt down, rotate our clamp so we can get to it, then we just start tightening it up. We use a five sixteenths socket for that. Tuck that back, won't have to worry about that hanging down too far. We're going to place our screws down through the bracket, place our plug up on the screws, then we'll thread on our nuts. These also have the serrated lock washers on them so you won't have to worry about a bunch of flat washers and lock washers. A lot of times to tighten it up all you have to do is hold that screw on top. All right, we're mounted. Now we can kind of separate our wires here and we'll take a look and see what's going to do what. Our white wire, this is going to have a rain terminal on it already, this is going to be grounded anywhere on the frame or body of the vehicle. Preferably the frame. You can see our 4 pull plug here, this is going to work with an existing 4 pull. You simply plug them together if you choose, or you can use some butt connectors and get them connected together. Our purple wire, this is going to be used for marine applications only. This is our reverse light signal. So if we connect this to our reverse light, when we hit reverse it's going to send that signal out to be used with a marine application trailer. Our black wire, this is going to our duplex wire in our ETBC7 kit. This is going to bring 12 volt power here to the back. The blue wire, this is for our brake signal, that's going to go to our white wire, that's in our duplex wire. Both of these will be sent to the front of the vehicle so we can get our break controller signal back here and also our 12 volt power signal back here. The nice think I like about the ETBC7 kit is we do have both the 4 pull and the 7 pull. We by eliminating this 4 pull we're not limiting our options on what trailers we can use. My wire is down, now we're going to eliminate the purple wire. We're going to leave maybe four or five inches of it so if they want to connect to it later they can, but in this application we won't be using it. Just snip that guy off. To keep our look nice back there we use either wire loom or electrical tape. Let's go around these wires, that way we don't have seven different colors of wires hanging out of the back of the car here. Let's deal with our 4 pull wiring first. Just going to trim these off here. The ground wire, I want to keep it pretty long I'm going to attach it to the other ground wire here. Separate that one off, also separate my other three, then we'll snip these off as well. Let's strip our existing 4 pull wires back, then strip the 3 off of our plug as well. Twist the ends of those up, make them nice and compact. Then we're going to grab a few of part number DW05744. These are going to be heat shrink butt connectors. These are going to offer us superior moisture resistance. We recommend using them on your external wiring connection. Make sure you have a good connection there. You can use a heat gun, a mini-torch, or lighter to get those shrank down. I'll just continue for our other two connections here, usually we put yellow to yellow and brown to brown. We're bringing my ground wires down. Going to get them about the same length as one another. I'm want to trim both of those off and get those stripped back. Then I'm going to add on a ring terminal. A little tape on there. Now we'll grab our self tapping screw, we'll create a hole so we can ground into our frame. This is our hole started, place our ring terminal on our self tapper there, and just secure it down. You want to make sure that it won't move, get it nice and solid. I'm going to trim back the end of my duplex wire here. I want to gain access to the two wires inside. The black one, that's going to carry our 12 volt power from the front. The white one, as we talked about, that's going brake signal. We'll strip those back. We're also going to cut the provided butt connectors off. We're going to be replacing these with heat shrinks as well, just to give us that superior moisture resistance. With these, since these are a little bit heavier so we're going to be using the yellow butt connectors here for 10 and 12 gauge wire, those are part number DW05745-5. We connect the black to the black. Then the white, that's going to go to the blue. Then we need to get those shrank down. Just to keep a nice look here on the back of the vehicle we're going to tape these up. We don't have to worry about moisture those butt connectors take care of that for us. This is more to give us a clean look, we can use wireloom, if we want. You see I've separated out my duplex wire because this is going to go to the front of the car still, all this is going to stay back here. We want to make sure we have an avenue or an area where that can get out of our tape so we can send that to where it needs to go. Looks good. I'm going to take the other end of our duplex wire, I'm going to get this over towards the passenger side. I'm going to run up that side because our battery is over there. I'm going to run it up over the support brace and up over your hitch, whatever you've got installed back here. Then over here where my wiring is I'm just going to use a zip-tie to keep that up beside the plug and it will really give it a good look. For the other end of my duplex I'm going use a piece of air line tubing here, you could use a coat hanger or a stiff piece of wire. I'm just going to attach it to the end and I'm going to use this as my guide. We're going to be running this up through the frame of the Jeep. It'll give us great protection, but it also can be a little bit tough. So you want to give you some kind of advantage and this can certainly help. Fit it in, we're going to hook that right into the frame and start heading forward with it. We'll let our wire rest here so it doesn't pull everything out and we'll go look in or frame and try to find it. Now we'll pull through whatever we can here. Sometimes if it gets jammed in the back you want to go back there, feed it in a little bit, but it should come through pretty good. Once we've got all our slack out of it here, it's a little bit of a rough edge. So what we'll do is we're just mark that area. Then we're going to put some wire lube on that just to give us some really good protection. You can use some electric tape, keep it held into position there. You can see, nice and protected where it makes the corner. We're going to continue running forward here. Right here where this main cross brace goes across there's a large square hole, that's the one I want to come out of here on the back side. Once we get out to this point then you'll see right above it there, get this wire loom, then we're going to head up to this point, right through this gap, and then straight up. That'll be where our battery is. We're going to put enough up there so we can find it, then we'll go up and try to pull it through. You can see our air line's come up, kind of by our dip stick there which is pretty close to perfect. I'm just going to add it on behind our wire loom here. I think this has been added on aftermarket but you also have the larger on there. Once you confirm that you've got all your slack pulled up from down below it's a good time to through a zip-tie on here, that's going to anchor it out and it's going to prevent any line from sliding out the back of the vehicle. Now we want to remove our pull cable here, and what we're going to do is take the outer layer of sheathing off our duplex wire now and turn it into two separate wires. To separate, what we're going to do is just try to go with a knife right through that first layer of sheathing, we don't want to go through both, we don't want to cut our wires or anything but we do want to remove that exterior grey part. With those separated we'll set those aside for just a second, next thing we need to do is figure out where we're going to be mounting our breakers. This is what our breakers are going to look like. We're going to use three self tapping screws to secure them. You just want to make sure wherever you chose you're just going to have room to have all three of them put in. Right back here on the firewall, seems like that's going to be a good location. Just going to give a little bit of the insulation that's covering that up, it cuts pretty well. We're going to take the one self tapping screw, and go through both of our breakers there. Then we get that first one attached to the fire wall. At least we got that one started. Let's move our other two over here so they'll line up properly then we can get those secured. With our breakers installed we need to figure out how we want to run our wires. I'm going to be using this big wire loom that runs across the back to take them over and there a grommet over on the drivers side. I need to get my brake wire over there from my 30 amp breaker I need to get power to my brake controller over there. Then we also need to get ground from our battery over there into the floor board area of the truck. What I've got is a piece of ten gauge wire, ti's 10-1-1 on our website and that's per foot, so you'll just have to estimate how much you're going to need. Then we're also going to be using some wire loom, I'm going to be using two white wires and a black wire. I can put all those in one case and it'll look a little better as it runs across there. The wire loom you'll get ten foot, it's part number is 39035. We'll start with our 12 volt wire that comes up from the back, this is going to get connected to the top side of the 40 amp breaker using one of the provided ring terminals. We can cut that to length there, leave a little bit extra in case you ever need to change anything up. Just going to use one of the ring terminals that's got the smaller hole on it. Now for the accessory side, whether it's for 12 volt power or for the brake controller, we're going use the silver stud. The copper stud is going to be the one that runs to our batter. So we pull off the serrated washer, pull off the nut, slide that right over, put the washer back on and also the nut. Now the piece of wire that we trimmed off, we're going to do the same thing, strip it back and add one of the ring terminals with the small diameter whole. That's going to run on the same path as what that one did, but it's going to go over to our 30 amp breaker. You'll get a 20 amp breaker and a 30 amp breaker, whatever your power demands are. You can just put in the 20 amp if you're using something low power but always put in the 30 in case you need extra. Now we'll wait on tightening these down until we get all our wires connected, but when we do, we'll just want to tighten that down dos it runs over top of that breaker, we don't want it to make contact with this stud. Now I'm going to get my ground wire set up. I'm going to take our extra piece of wire, I'm going to add one of the larger diameter ring terminals onto the end of it. Crimp it down. Feed this is the same direction as our other two. This one will turn up, then it's going to right under out battery's negative side stud. The wires that we're running over to the other side, this is where I'm going to get them in our wire loom. We'll start with the one that goes to the negative terminal and the one the goes to our breaker. We'll get those in. We're going to use a little bit of electrical tape to hold that in place. We bring that across then we want to see where the white wire from the back of the Jeep will join in, we can tape it off there and add that wire in. Now we're going to tuck this into the loom far enough that it'll reach over to the other side. I'm going to bring up that wire loom across with that big wire loom like we talked about and secure it along the way with some of the provided zip-ties. Then we take just enough loom here to where I can get down, and just beside the brake booster there's going to be a small grommet we're going to go through. We'll trim off what I don't need, get our end taped up. Lets give ourselves a little bit of wire here so we have plenty to work with, then we're just going to snip along. We're just going to add these back to our pull cable or pull wire, whatever you used. If we take a long flathead screwdriver we should be able to poke a hole in the middle of that grommet, it's really just like a foam materials. Take the other end of our pull divide and pass it through that hole, poke enough in there where we can get ahold of it. Then we'll go in and we're actually going to hold from the inside as we pull our wire s thought. Now we just snip off our wires, we'll have everything down here we'll need to make our connections. Here's the connector from our brake controller. This is going to be plugging into the actual controller portion and getting all the signals. The white's for ground. The blacks for power. The blue's for our break signals. The red one's the only one we really don't have in here yet. This is going to be for the stop light switch. What we nee to do is find on our brake light switch, which is right up here above our brake pedal, which one has power only when the break is being applied. To make things easier to see we're going to pull this cover off of the outside of the dash and we're going to just set it aside for now. We'll take the test light, there's going to be one that comes with the ETBC7, just going to use the one I normally use in my box. Then we start testing out those wires. See, we've got six of them there. So that's what we're looking for. It's going to be a white wire that's got the tan stripe. Now we're going to strip back the end of the red wire that comes off of our plug and give it a twist. We're also going to cut our stoplight switch wire, and we can strip back both sides of it. Now our red wire, we're going place in it a butt connector. We also want to slide the other side of that brake light switch wire into it. Here you can see the connect that we've made. To test out the connection I'm going to use our test light. And where the ride wire runs into our plug, we can just use our test light right there. We want to have that signal when we hit the brake. That's great. Now, let's take our three other wires here and start making the connections with them. Start by getting our ground connection made. For this we're using the butt connectors out of our ETBC7 kit. The customer wants us to mount this kind of in a unique way, he wants us to use hook and loop straps. If you stick on pieces of hook and loop to get it mounted to a piece of steel over here in case he ever wants to change it's location. I want to leave these wires long, that way if he ever wants to change it's position, that way he's not suck with really short wires. You just want to keep that in mind. For our black wire, that's bringing us the power from the battery, at least once we connect our jumpers over there, so it's going to power our break controller through the black wire. Last one of course that's our white wire that's bringing the signal from the brake controller all the way to the back so our trailer can pick it up. Set those over to the side for now. Now we'll figure out where we want to mount our override lever, and our display. Our customers requested that the controls go right where they'll be easily accessible for him. We'll tuck our wire in behind the dash pad there, then we'll route it in and under there where we can grab ahold of a and bring it over to our box. This will come out down here near where we'll be mounting our box. Now we need to get our display situated. The display, he wants that to be set right over here in the middle. So we'll just route our wires down and around that. Tuck in this inaudible 00:27:00. Bring that over and run it the same direction there. Now we're going to plug the pigtail that we've got wired up, into the pigtail we've got coming off of our SmartBox. We can also plug in our two peripheral devices, or our two external components here. These use different size plugs, we don't have to worry about getting that mixed up. Once we plug it in we can use either double stick foam tape, we can use hook and loop strap, or we use self tappers to secure it. We're going to be using hook and loop so we're going to need to clean up the back side of it. We're going to use a little bit of rubbing alcohol. While we're at it we can also clean off the mounting surface. We pull one side of the covering off, attach it to our box. You can bring it right up into position and attach it. Then we can use a few of the provided zip-ties and we can start bundling up our wires here. Now we'll clean off our flex display, apply the hook and loop, and get it secured. We can do the same for our flex control and we'll get it put into place as well. Now we should have a short piece of black wire left over, strip both ends of it. Then add a small ring terminal on there. These we'll connect onto the coppler 00:29:15 side of our breaker. We can add one on each side. Place our washers and our nuts back on. Both of those we need to connect to the stud here on our positive terminal. We'll leave, again, a little bit of extra there, clip them off, and get those stripped. To those we can add our larger ring terminals. Lets take the nut off the positive post here, get those put in place. Get those secured down. Now we just want to position our wires so we don't run into any interference. Then tighten down our four nuts on our breakers. Now we can test our our system to make sure everything's working as it should. To test out our system we're going use our trailer emulator. Start with our 7 pull side here and plug that in. We're going to have a light come on immediately that indicates we got our 12 volt power. Now lets do our left blinker, right blinker, running lights, our brakes, and then we'll send a break signal from our brake controller. All right, get our 7 pull tester out of there. Now let's test our our 4 pull. Just using a tester there. Get that plugged into our 4 pull side. All right, we've got our running lights, our left blinker, right blinker, and our brakes. With everything working as it should that completes our installation of Hopkins InSIGHT flex trailer brake controller, part number HM47297 also using part number ETBC7 on our 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.


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