Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2010 Ford F-350 Super Duty

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How to Install the Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2010 Ford F-350 Super Duty

Today on our 2010 Ford F350 Super Duty, we're gonna be installing B&W's Turnover Ball Underbite Gooseneck Hitch, part number BWG NRK 1108. This gooseneck hitch is gonna allow you to hook up your gooseneck trailer and park behind your truck. The ball that comes with it can be removed and inserted upside down, storing it away, being nice and flush, so you have full access to your truck bed, as if it wasn't there. Your safety chains are spring loaded turned down snug against the bed of the truck so it can stay out of the way, but when you need them they simply pop up and they're ready to use. Additionally, the system can be used with B&W's companion, so you can put a fifth wheel insert in here on and now you're fit for a trailer as well.Okay, on our driver's side we'll have our release handle for our ball. We simply let it go inward to lock your ball into place, and when you need to take it out, flip it over, replace it with a different size, you simply pull it out, push it to the side, and that'll hold it in place so you can make your adjustments and lock it back down.

It's also spring loaded, so whenever you pull on it, you can ensure it's going to fall back to place as a safety measure.We'll being our installation under the rear of the vehicle. You wanna make sure you lower down your spare tire, so you have enough room to work, as well as lower down your exhaust. We'll then lower down our exhaust, you're gonna use a ten millimeter socket to remove both the bolts folding in your rear hangover. There's gonna be one on the inside of the filter, and then next we'll need to lower down the exhaust here in front of the axle, I'm using the large exhaust hanger there. We're just gonna pry that off using a pry bar.Then this will give us some more room to work.

Then we're gonna remove the heat shield, located above our exhaust, we'll just pull this down out of the way. Now we'll refer to our instructions and mark our truck bed accordingly, so we've got it all measured out here. We'll start by drilling a pilot hole, we can use a quarter inch drill to do this. We're then gonna switch to a four inch hole saw. What I like to do if you've got a spray in bed liner is actually start the whole saw backwards just to cut into the spray in bed liner.Once you've just marked it by going backwards, we can then go forwards.

Then we'll take some clear spray paint to just cover that up to help prevent against corrosion. Next we're gonna slide our rails in. We're gonna start with the rear rail, you'll know it's the rear because it'll have a notch on both edges on one side, and that one is gonna go towards the passenger side. We're gonna just try and slide it in there, and if it won't fit, may need to cut a small notch in the sheet metal located there. We made our little mark where our rail was hitting, so we're gonna just cut a notch out of that with out cut off wheel.

We'll then slide our rail into position. Once you've got a bolt through rear and your front rail slid in, you're gonna wanna separate those.We're gonna bring our rear rail towards the back of the vehicle, and we're just gonna leave our front rail where it's at. Next, we'll take our clamp bracket, we're gonna put that around the frame. Once you get your clamp bracket around the frame, you can then slide our side bracket between our clamp bracket. You wanna make sure that the side bracket goes behind the bottom portion of your clamp, between the frame. And then on the top, you wanna make sure the studs on the clamp bracket goes through your side bracket. We'll then place a lock washer and a nut on the stud from our clamp bracket. We'll then take the spacer that comes in our kit, it's gonna go between the side bracket and the frame. We're gonna feed that out. Then we're gonna take the largest bolt that comes in the kit, that's gonna go through the side bracket, the spacer, and the frame.On the back side, we're gonna place a flat washer, lock washer, and nut on that bolt. Then we'll take the brass bolt that comes in the kit, place a flat washer on it, slide it through the clamp bracket, then into our side bracket, and follow that up with a lock washer and a nut. I'll then repeat all these same procedures on the opposite side. Now we'll lift our center section into place. You wanna make sure on the bottom here that you've got your release handle on the driver's side. We're just gonna line that up with the hole.Now we'll hold our center section in place. You'll wanna take one of your bolts with a flat washer on it, slide it through your rail, and on the other side you'll wanna follow that up with a lock washer and a nut. We're gonna repeat that for all the remaining holes in our rail to our center section. We'll then place our bolt through our clamping bracket, and side plate bracket, follow that with a lock washer, and a nut. Don't forget to put the bolts on the outside of the vehicle frame through your cross members into the side plates. That's just gonna be a bolt from the inside out, followed by a flat washer, lock washer, and nut.We can then go back and tighten down all of out hardware. We're gonna use a three quarter socket wrench to tighten everything down, except for the large bolts that go through the side of the frame rail. Now Torque all of your hardware to the specifications found in your instructions. Next we're going to drill out the holes for our safety chain loops. You wanna use a half inch drill bit, and then we'll use our center section holes as a pilot, you wanna use the inside set of holes.Now we're gonna repeat this for the remaining three holes, and we're gonna clear coat this again just to protect that from corrosion. We can then drop our ebolts right down the frame. On our ebolt we're gonna take the springs that come in the kit, slide that up over the bolt, and place a locking nut on the other side. We're gonna repeat that for the other part of our ebolt here and the other ebolt on the other side. Next we'll tighten our lock nuts down just until they're flush with the bottom of the ebolt. We're gonna use a 19 millimeter socket to tighten them down.We'll then slide our handle in from the outside, making sure to go through the opening in our center section, we'll then take one of the larger carriage bolts that come in the kit, we're gonna slide it through our center section and then through the handle. On the other side, we're gonna place a gland nut. We'll then tighten that down with a half inch wrench. Next we'll be reinstalling our exhaust, you'll get some hardware that's included with your kit, to help lower the exhaust down to increase clearance so it doesn't come into contact with your new gooseneck. Our customer has an after-market exhaust system installed that changed its geometry, so we won't be installing these components, but this bracket here and this hardware would allow you to drop down the rear-most bracket that we removed, and the front most bracket, these are some spacers, you can take out the nuts and drop that bracket down as well.Now we can reinstall our exhaust. Now you can reinstall your spare tire and you're ready to hit the road. That completes our installation of B&W's Turnover Ball Under Bed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on our 2010 Ford F350 Super Duty.

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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Test Fit:
Shane T
Test Fit:
Joe B
Test Fit:
David F
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Chris R
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video by:
Alan C
Video by:
Sue W

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