Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2012 Ram 2500

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How to Install a Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2012 Ram 2500


Alright, today on this 2012 Ram 2500 Crew Cab, we're going to install part number 9464-35. This is the Hide a Goose, underbed gooseneck trailer hitch from Drawtite. Let's go ahead and try it out and show you how it works. To unlock it, pull out the handle, and just move it either to the front or the back, and it stays open. Then to lock it back in place, pull it out, out of the d tent and it will fall back into place. With it unlocked, we can take the ball out and leave it out, or we could store the ball inside as well. OK.

When you're not using it, you can use the included magnet, to help protect it. With the pin back into place, we can go ahead and put our ball back in the usable position, and you see it's nice and tight and won't go anywhere. First up, let's get our truck ready. In this case, we're going to lower our spare tire, and get it out of the way. We're also going to remove the tires and wheels off the back axle. You don't have to do this part, but it sure makes it a lot easier to install, and a lot easier to see.

Once we're done with the tires and wheels, we'll also go ahead and remove the fender wells, as well. To take your fender wheel liners off, there's a series of screws all the way around the edge and a couple in the middle. We're using a 5/16ths nut driver to take them apart. There you go. There it is.

OK. Next up, is remove the heat shield for your tire. There are two bolts that are easy to get to here, but there's three fasteners on top, that you have to use a long extension to get to. We're going to go ahead and unbolt up front here. On this particular vehicle, we'll just unbolt this section and just completely take this out of our way, for now. You can just lower it and out of your was, as well, and not take it off completely.

Now, there's a small clip that you have to remove from that. A lot of times, they just break. You kind of just got to work them off. We'll go ahead and spray down the rubber hangar with some lubricant, to help remove it. We'll also spray the fasteners down with some lubricant to help remove them. OK. At this point, we can ahead and start to install our rails. Now, this will be our back rail, with this edge and the oval holes facing towards the top. This long edge will be facing towards the top. The threaded rod will be on the bottom. The rail going toward the front will be the exact opposite. Their both the same length, there's not a front and rear to them. We'll take one edge and point it up toward the gas tank on top of the frame. Push it in the car as forward as possible. You need to go over your exhaust hanger bracket. Then, we'll go ahead and pull it back. We have to wiggle it back and forth, to get it over the wire harness. Then, we'll do the same thing with our front bar. OK. Now, with our cross bars loosely in place, we'll go ahead and install the hardware where the headers will eventually be put in. We're going to take these bolts, these 5 inch carriage bolts, that come with the head assembly comes with that box. We'll go ahead and put the hardware into the square holes. Alright, now we can go ahead and put our side brackets on. I went ahead and marked the holes of where our threaded rod will go through. We'll just put it over the top for now, and slide the bars where we need to. Now, our hardware we'll put on will be a washer with a 5/8ths hole, 5/8ths lock washer, 5/8ths nut. The same for front and rear. Now, there's a preexisting hole in the frame that we want to line up our bracket with. So, let's go ahead and slide the bracket back, as needed, to match up. OK. Now, go ahead and take our U bolts, and we'll go ahead and run it from inside to the outside of the frame, into the other holes of the bracket. Push them through, and on the other side, we'll install our hardware. This will use a conical tooth washer and a nut. You want to make sure these teeth on the washer always stays toward the hitch. The front U bolt's done. We'll do the same thing with the back. OK, now our U bolt's loosely in place. Let's go ahead and install a fastener down here. To install our hardware, we'll take our bolt leader and run it through the hole we're going to use, then run it out a preexisting hole in the frame. We'll take our block, slide it into place, then take our bolt and thread it on, push it in the frame, and pull it back through. We'll go ahead and remove the bolt leader, and install the rest of our hardware. This will be another conical tooth washer and nut. Alright, for now, we're done for our passenger side. Let's go ahead and repeat the same process on our driver's side, however, it's going to be a little bit more complicated than this. OK. Now, to install our bracket on our driver's side, we have to loosen up this nut, right here, and temporarily remove the ground. Eventually, our ground will come back over the top of it and bolt back into place. Alright, now we'll go ahead and loosen up this wire harness here. These fasteners just push into the frame. I like to use a trim panel tool to help remove them. Eventually, we want to work our U bolt from underneath, and all the wiring lays on top. We'll go up forward a little bit, by the gas tank and the brake lines, and we'll go ahead and loosen up wire harness there, as well. Don't be surprised if you have to manipulate this bracket to get the brake lines out of the way, as well. Let's go ahead and put our bracket it on like before. We'll line up our cross bars with the holes. Same hardware as before, flat washer, lock washer and a nut. Next, we'll go ahead and work on our U bolt, towards the tailgate. The hardware for the U bolts will be the same. Now, we've got our first U bolt in, and it's holding everything in place. Since this is a little more complicated, it's easier just to put the one U bolt in, and then just manipulate this hole so it lines up with the factory hole. Let's go ahead and work in our second U bolt, now. It seems to work if you put them in backward and then rotate them into place. Now, our U bolts in place. We'll go ahead and double check to see how close the brake lines are to it, and we'll go ahead and adjust them, if necessary. OK, now, our U bolt is just touching our brake line, so I have to give at least a little bit of difference between the two. Let's go take a bracket and just pull it that a way just a little bit, to give it some slack. Use an adjustable wrench to grab it and just give it a gentle pull. Let's go ahead and install our carriage bolt and our 3 inch block. Block and bolt. Our hitch doesn't really line up left to right. It's in some of the inaudible 09:17. We've just got to push it over, then pull our bolt through. Let's go ahead and move our wire harness out of the way, and install our conical tooth washer and nut. Alright, we're done underneath the truck, for now. Let's go in the bed of the truck and mark and drill for our hole. First off, we'll go ahead and measure across the bed, to find the center. OK, it will be 30 inches. Let's go ahead and measure up from our mark in the bed. Now, there's two different measurements, depending on the bed length. So, always go by your instructions. Now, I just want to drill through the bed liner for now, so we'll go ahead and slip a piece of wood underneath of it, to space it out from the bed. Now, our hole size we're going to drill through our bed liner is going to be just a little bit smaller than our final whole size, which will be 3 1/2 inches. Go ahead and remove our wood. Well go ahead and double check our measurement. We want to measure from the edge of the bed itself, not the tailgate, up to our measurement described in the instructions. OK. We've got our length front to rear. Next, we'll go ahead and find the center of the corrugation that we have exposed now. With our bed marked, we'll go ahead and drill out a small pilot hole, to verify the fit with the hitch. Now, let's go underneath the truck, and verify the fit. Here's a hole right here. It's a little offset going towards the front of the truck. Your hitch head, which will eventually go into place, is offset as well. Measuring from the center of the hole for out hitch to the outside edge of the hitch head itself, is about 4 inches. That shows us we got plenty of room for right here. OK, let's go ahead and drill out a pilot hole of 1/4 inch. Then, we'll follow it up with our hole saw. On our hole saw, we're going up to a 3 1/2 inch bit. We'll also take a moment to make sure that our bed liners kind of centered with the ribs. Then, we'll go ahead and drill it out. This will be a good point to go ahead and use any material you would like, to help protect the edge. In this case, we're using a rubberized undercoating. We also use a piece of wood, laying over the top of the hole to protect any overspray. Alright, now we get to go ahead and put the hitch into place. Definitely get an extra set of hands to hold it up and install the rest of our fasteners. After we've got our bolts lined up, we went ahead and installed our conical tooth washers and nuts. Then, we went ahead and snugged out bolts up, not to tighten it down, but just enough to take up the gap, so we can adjust it, as needed, later on. At this point, all our hardware has been installed on the hitch. Now, we'll go ahead and tighten down the bolts, and then we'll torque the bolts down, as specified in the instructions. We'll do it in this particular sequence. We'll go ahead and tighten down our frame brackets by tightening down the U bolts. Then, we'll go ahead and tighten down the bolt at the very bottom of the frame. We're done with our driver's side. Now, we'll go to the passenger side and repeat the same process. We got our frame brackets tightened down. Now, we'll go ahead and tighten down and torque the cross members to the frame brackets. OK. Now we'll go ahead and tighten down and then torque these bolts from the hitch joints to the frame brackets. Alright, our hitch is fully installed. Let's go ahead and add the U bolts for our safety chains. These will, of course, be installed from the top down, because they'll fit into these slots, right here. What we want to do is look for the corrugation, where it comes down closest to the hitch, so the U bolt will sit inside the corrugation. You can just basically feel for that corrugation, right there. In this case, it will be going towards the center of the hitch. We'll put our drill bit right on the edge of the oval, and drill straight up. Alright, now I put a couple of weights on top of the bed liner, to help hold it down, while we drill through it. OK, we're going to use a 1/2 inch drill bit to go from the bottom towards the top. Now, it looks like the holes for our U bolt came right through the center of this rib, let's go take a rotary tool, and just cut it out. OK, now it may be helpful to use an oversize drill bit from 1/2 an inch, to make sure our U bolts work evenly. Alright, we're done drilling our holes. Let's go ahead and clean up all the filings around it. Alright, let's go ahead and drop our U bolts into place. Let's go back underneath. Now, we can go ahead and install our hardware for our U bolts. We'll take a flat washer, and a spring, and a lock nut. These parts come with the hitch itself. OK, one side's done. Let's go ahead and repeat on the other side. Now, we'll tighten down the nut, we only want up to two threads showing. Alright, our next part and our last part will be the handle for the hitch. We'll go ahead and run it over the frame brackets, between the frame and the bed. We'll go ahead and line up with the pin that goes through the hitch ball, but install the clip. OK. Let's go ahead and give the handle a test pull, to make sure it's working OK. Alright, everything's installed. Now we can go ahead and start reassembly of our truck. First, let's start with our ground, which is a little bit on the short side, after our brackets in place. What you need to do is go ahead and loosen up the attachment point for our wire, on top of the frame and then just pull it out over the top. OK. Then down to our stud on the side of the frame, on the outside. Now, our wiring sits on top of our U bolt, but attachment points won't go all the way in, so we'll use a zip tie, that comes with the kit, to secure it. Let's grab an extra zip tie, and we'll get the wiring up on top here, as well. OK, now we can go ahead and re-install the exhaust and the heat shield for our spare tire. OK, let's go ahead and put our fender wall back into place on the driver's side. After we have it in place, we'll go ahead and cut out necessary, to get access to the handle. Well go ahead and pull on our handle, to see how much room we need. This kind of sticks out passed the handle, so it's probably a good idea to take out a large chunk, so you have room for your hands. Now, we'll go ahead and put the tires and wheels back on the back axle, and the spare tire. With that, that will finish it for part number 9464-35, the Drawtite Hide a Goose underbed gooseneck trailer hitch on our 2012 Ram 2500 Crew Cab. .


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