Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Ford F-350 Super Duty

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How to Install a Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2015 Ford F-350 Super Duty


Today on our 2015 Ford F350, we're going to be installing the B&W turnover under-bed Gooseneck trailer hitch with the custom installation kit. It offer a 30,000 pound weight capacity. The part number is BWGNRK1111. This could also be used with the B&W Gooseneck to fifth wheel adapter. The great thing about the B&W under-bed mount hitch is that we're going to have full use of our bed when it's not in use. As you can see, you've got a solid center section here as well as a solid one-piece ball mount. It's machined as one unit, so we're never going to have to worry about anything loosening up or having to tighten anything up.

This is going to slide right down in when we're ready for use, the pin is going to come over. As you can see, the base is squared, so we're never going to have to worry about this rotating or turning. It's just as easy to flip over and slide right down and in. If you'll take a look in there, I'm going to slide the locking pin across. This is going to be 5/8" full steel.

It's going to pass all the way through and give us tons of security. We've got our safety chain connections here. As you can see, they're spring loaded. That way again, when not in use tucked down, and also, we don't have to worry about them rattling or bouncing around as we're heading down the road. We'll pull our black handle, rotate it slightly. As you can see, that's going to be in the out position now.

It's going to be stuck out. This allows us to put our ball in, pull our ball out, or change the position of it. With our ball mount in position, we'll just rotate this back and then allow it to slide in being sure it fully engages. You'll see our ball mount is locked into position there. If you'd prefer it in the stored position, you'll simply release your handle, flip it over, and allow it to go into that position.

With this stored in place, you will want to again release your handle allowing that pin to come right through the center and hold it in place. Let's go ahead with the install. We've gone ahead and removed the spare tire from our truck and both rear wheels just to make it easier for you to see and easier for us to work. Now, we're here in the bed of the truck, and the first thing we're going to do is drill our 4" hole right here in the center of the bed. Check your instructions, there's a specific measurement that you'll want to use for this. It's different on different applications. Look through it real well and make sure you get the right number. Our measurements when get our length, it's going to be measured right from the rear edge of the bed forward to whatever number it tells you to be at. I put a little dot there. I just want to make sure that my dot is centered by measuring from a fixed point on both sides of the bed and to the middle to make sure I'm getting that same number. Now that we've located our hole location, we've put a little dot there for reference. We'll use our 4" hole saw. Start out real slow just to let that drill bit bite through. As you can see, that's got us a good hole started there. We want to start it slow so we don't have it walking around on us as we're doing this. Our next step is going to remove our heat shield located right here over our exhaust tube. It's just up there with some sticky material. Usually, it comes off pretty easy. The next install step is going to be to lower our exhaust here at the rear. We've got 2 bolts, one located here on the other side, and one located up here a little bit higher. Those will have to come out. Now on this one here, I'm going to leave it attached just slightly. For our video purposes today, we're actually going to be taking the whole tailpipe section out. I just wanted to give you an idea of how this removal process works, but I'm going to be using that bolt for support while I take those other ones out up front. We'll remove the nuts that we've got. Since we're going to be removing the 2 bushings or the 2 isolators up here that are helping to support our exhaust pipe, for good measure, we're just going to throw in a strap. We'll bring it around the underside of the exhaust just to give it some support. Before we lower our tailpipe section down completely, we've got an exhaust sensor that comes in right up here on this backside. It's connected into the wire, and it's going to run right in to this box. We're just going to separate the connection here on the front side, and then, there's 2 little retaining clips that we'll pull out. Now that we've got that loose, let's finish taking down our tailpipe. Now, I'm just going to remove our 2 hangers or isolators there. Start by hitting them with some spray lubricant. At pry bar usually works pretty good to just push those off of there. Sometimes, you just reach in here and just pull straight back them, and they'll slide off for you. We've got both those pulled off. Now, we'll finish removing the 1 bolt that I told you we we're going to leave in place, and that should allow us to bring this down and out from under the truck. Now here on our driver side, we've got our bed flange that comes down a little bit. We need to make a triangle-shaped notch in this. It should be located 1/2" behind our front crossmember here. Let's just make a small mark for now. That's going to be the center of the notch that we're cutting out. From our center mark there, we need to make 7/8" wide gap with that being the center, so we're going to come 7/16" on one side and 7/16" on the other and make a small mark. We've got 2 small dots there. At the bottom of our flange, we'll go up 3/8". Now, we've got a couple options here as far as how we're going to cut. You can use a pair of tin snips. As you can see, that's going to cut it pretty nicely, or if you've got a roto tool, you can use that as well. Now, it's time for our crossmember installation. The rear one is going to be the one that has 3 notches. You'll have 2 notches on the face of it here, but there's also a 3rd notch here at the rear. These are going to be installed taking advantage of that notch that we've got there. Once we get it in a little bit of the way as you see it here, it's a good idea to go underneath the truck and guide it over onto the other frame rail. Those notches are designed to go right over top of our shock mount here. That's what gives us the clearance we need. You may need the use of a rubber mallet or something just to get this in far enough to where those notches are right over that shock mount. Let's go ahead and bring our rail in, help it get past our shock mount there, and then, we can start moving it on rearward. There's a little tab right here. This is easily removable and allows us to slide that on back, and then, we'll just clip it right back on there. There we go. Now, we'll just slide it on back. As you can see, it's going to rotate up into position pretty nicely. Let's bring our front crossmember in. This one we're going to install through the same slot, but we want our holes to be facing the rear of the truck whereas on the rear they face the front of the truck. Once we get it in there, let's go underneath and help it on through. We're going to bring our rail in and hold it up against that forward crossmember as we do, and then, we can rotate it back into position here. Just like before, we may need to help persuade it slightly. Now, we've got our center section here. We want the part that's got the slot, we want that to be over towards the driver side. We're just going to place it right over our brake line bracket. We'll slide it over that. Once we get them aligned, for now, we're just going to stick a bolt in there that's going to help hold it in place for us and just throw a nut in it, and the same thing on the front side. That's just to hold it in place. Let's go ahead and get our full set of hardware. To start that, we need 1/2" bolt 1-1/2" long and one of the flat washers. We'll place that through the crossmember, through the center section, and then, we're going to put a nut and a lock washer on the inside. All of our hardware should be installed loosely. We don't want to tighten anything down right now. That's going to give us some extra room for adjustment. Now, we can just go through and repeat it for the 6 holes that we've got. Now, let's take those center bolts out that we put in earlier and get our washer and lock washer on that. All right with all 6 installed loosely, let's move to the side plates and get those taken care of. Now, we'll bring one of our 3/4" bolts that's 2-1/2" long and on the driver side here you'll see we're using this little square washer. We'll slide that right through the oval-shaped hole here. We'll now slide our spacer on, and then, we can grab our side plate. Let's carefully slide this on. While we do that, we'll want to hold out on our 3/4" bolt so it doesn't disappear back in there on us. Then, we've got a lock washer that will go on and then our nut. Again, just hand tight with all the hardware. We'll just take another one of our 1/2" bolts, bring it through the backside, place on a wash, lock washer, and a nut. Now that we've got our side plates installed onto our frame, we're going to do the last step in step 6, which is to slide our bolt through our side plate, through our angle, then we've got a washer, lock washer, and a nut just like what we had on the other one. The reason we waited to do this stuff is it just seems a little bit easier to do it after you've got this main 3/4" bolt through. Here on the passenger side, we've got our 3/4" bolt, and you can see we've got our flat washer installed. That will come through that same oblonged hole. Slide our spacer on, get our side plate up and in, and then, we'll secure that with a lock washer and a nut. We've got 1/2" bolt 1-1/2" long. I'm dropping my lock washer there. We're going to bring that through the rear hole, put on a flat washer, lock washer, and a nut, and bring it up through the front here using the same 1/2" hardware with our washer, lock washer, and nut. Now, we'll take another 1/2" bolt, it will be placed through the angle, through our side plate, and then, we have the flat washer, lock washer, and nut that will go on both here and our front location here. Now, we're going to start tightening down our bolts. We start with the crossrails to our center section. There's a particular order they want these done. Follow along. Now, we'll check in our instructions there, and we want to torque these down to the stated foot pounds. Again, we're following a specific order here. We just need to run a quick check to be sure that we've got everything centered. We'll measure from the rear of this hat channel to the front of our bar and from the front of this one to the rear of it. All right. Now, we'll go over to the other side of the truck and repeat that same process to verify we have the same measurements. Now, we'll tighten down the 3/4" bolt, and we'll torque it down to the specifications. You just want to refer to your instruction manual for those. We'll go to the other side and repeat that exact same process. Now, it's time for our side plate bolts to be tightened. Now, it's time to torque these down to specifications. Now, we're off to the passenger side to repeat that process. Now, we'll tighten up the 2 bolts on each side that hold the center bracket or the outside side plate to our crossmembers. The big surprise here is that we're going to torque these down to the specifications that are in the instructions. Now, we'll go over to the other side of the truck and repeat that same process. For our handle installation, we're going to feed that through the small semicircle that will be right here at the end of the pull tab and just allow that to come out in the fender well. We'll then line up our eyelet with this square hole. We'll pass 5/16" x 3/4" carriage bolt through that. The bolt head should be facing us that way the small square will fit right into the square that's there. Now, we'll put our nut on the back of that, and then, we'll tighten it down. As we tighten it down, we want to be careful not to deform the eyelet on the handle itself. You want to get it tight but not over-tightened. That's all there is to it there. Now, we'll take a drill bit, and we're going to drill he inner set of holes out to allow for our safety hooks to go in. With the passenger side done, let's head to the driver side and repeat that same process. Here are our 4 holes from the top side. We're going to take our U-bolts, slide them right down through. You'll notice this one with the sprayed in bedliner didn't come out quite all the way. We'll just a tool and just clean that up. With that cleared out of the way, that will pass right down through there. Now, we'll go back to the underside. Now, we'll take one of our springs, push it up on the bottom side there, and let's just secure it now by threading our bolt on. We'll come through and tighten all of these up later. We've got our 2 here. The spring-loaded action is working fine. Now, let's go over here to the driver side, and we'll do that exact same thing. We'll tighten our nuts up here until they become flush with the bottom of our U-bolts. All right, those are set and operating fine. Let's take care of this side. We're just going to do that exact same thing. Before we put our exhaust back up, we'll need to install our bracket to lower it slightly. As you can see, we have the 2 holes where we removed the bolts from. We'll take the larger 5/16" carriage bolt, and that will go through the bottom. We'll secure it on the other side with a nut. These are locking flange nuts. Once we have them on there nice and tight, they'll hold their position. Then on the rear side, where there's still that threaded stud, we're going to use a smaller carriage bolt. This is 1/4" carriage bolt that's going to go in and then the same deal on the back, locking flange nut there. Now, we'll just tighten these down. All right with those nice and secure, we can get it put back in the vehicle. Now, we can set our exhaust up into place. We just need to kind of fish it through over our differential. Now, we're just going to throw our nuts back on there just to help hold it in place. Here at our extension plate that we put on, we're going to bring it up and we're going to go right back into the hole that we removed our original bracket from. This is going to allow us 2 different slots to go into. Of course, we want to use the highest one we can without anything making contact underneath the truck here. It looks like that 2nd set of holes is going to work out great for us. We've got a small spacer. The carriage bolt goes through the bracket, then our spacer is going to slide right on our carriage bolt, then we can bring our exhaust up, and fit it right through there. Then, we'll put our nut right on the end of our carriage bolt there. Now, it's time to tighten that one down. That's nice and secure. In some applications, there's going to be a small hole located here. That's going to be for that 2nd hole that you saw on that bracket and will offer a 2nd bolt to go through. If yours doesn't have it, don't worry about it, securing it with one is going to be just fine. Now, we'll get our 2 isolators/exhaust hangers back on. With those in place, we can release our strap. Then, let's tighten our bolts up. As you can see by lowering our exhaust down, we've got just enough clearance so we're not going to have any kind of issues with noise or impact or rattling. We will not reconnect our wire for our exhaust sensor there and push the 2 keepers back in place. Now, we'll just start putting our tires back on. Now, we're going to put our spare tire back up into place. With our spare tire back in place and secure, that'll complete today's look at the B&W Turnover Ball under-bed Gooseneck trailer hitch with the customer installation kit, part number BWGNRK1111, on our 2015 Ford F350 SuperDuty. .


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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Robert C

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