Go Power Overlander Solar Charging System Installation - 2018 Jayco Greyhawk Motorhome

Products Featured in this Video

Go Power Overlander Solar Charging System with Digital Solar Controller - 200 Watt Solar Panel

47 reviews

Code: 34282181

Retail: $913.59

Price:  $603.99

• RV Solar Panels
• Roof Mounted Solar Kit
• Rigid Panels
• 200 Watts
• 5.1 - 10 Amps

• AGM
• Flooded Lead Acid
• Gel
• Lithium - liFePO4
• 59-1/8L x 26-5/16W Inch
• 1 Panel
• Go Power

This solar charging system helps get you off the grid with a 200-watt solar panel that provides DC power to charge your RV's batteries. Solar controller regulates and monitors power output while preventing harmful overcharging.

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How to Install the Go Power Overlander Solar Charging System on a 2018 Jayco Greyhawk Motorhome

Hi there RV and trailer owners today, we're going to be taking a look at Go Powers solar panel kit. Solar panels will give you the ability to harness the energy of the sun, to charge the battery banks inside your motor home or camper. The more solar panels you have on top, the more energy that you can harness. If you have enough, you could potentially run your entire camper purely off of solar power and your battery bank.This panel is 190 Watts, which can charge a 12 volt. It can operate about 9.3 amps. So we've got two of them.

We did put an additional panel on, and that's just going to double the power that he has available to him that he can charge with the solar panels. This particular panel is a mono-crystalline panel, which is the construction of the silica underneath. And it's just a more efficient silica crystal than a polycrystalline is, which is some of the cheaper brands out there. You're going to have a polycrystalline. And those ones just aren't as efficient.

They won't harness as much of the sun's energy as this type of panel would.The entire top of the panel has a tempered glass on it to protect it from the elements. And if you get into any hailstorms and things like that, it's nice and durable. So they're just going to ting and bounce off so you can get your operation for many years to come. It has a solid aluminum frame around the outside to make it nice and rigid. And it's fully sealed on the underside up against the glass to keep out any dirt, debris and moisture.

So you can have long operation of your panels.You do get all the brackets and hardware you need to mount it on your roof. The only thing you might want to consider is some butyl tape for the bottom of the brackets and some self-leveling sealant to seal it up so that we don't have any leaks into your roof from where you attached it. Another thing you may or may not need is extension cables as the panels do use MC4 connectors, which just plug right in. And you can see the cables here. These are the extension cables that we ran from our panels, the two panels we connected together up where they're next to each other.

And then we used extensions to run from that point to our rooftop mounted connector, which is located here at the back.If you've got a solar prep on your motor home, you likely have one of these here on top, and this is a standard MC4 as well. So that way these panels can just plug right in. There's no hard wiring that you have to do to add this panel into an existing setup, just get your MC4s and plug them in. The cables that are on the back of the panels, they're about two foot in length.So you do get a little bit of length. That's why we're able to connect the two panels together using the existing connectors on the back, but we needed extensions to reach the rooftop connection point. And help give you an idea of how large this panel is, and to ensure you've got enough room on your roof for an additional one, or maybe multiple additional ones, depending on how much power you need.The panel measures 59 and an eighth inch long by 26 and five sixteenths inches wide. And it's about an inch and a half thick. And I would say it sits about an inch off the surface of your roof once you've got it installed with the mounting hardware. And this is what our solar panel kit looks like when it's installed. We've got our charge controller here on the inside that we can easily access and monitor everything that's going on with our system in the various conditions that's out there, whether it be at night, during the day, overcast conditions, raining, we can kind of just see how much we're charging and the current conditions of our batteries.Included in this kit you're going to get the solar controller that you see here, which is a 30 amp controller that is designed to charge up to two battery banks. And it's also designed to work with Go Powers inverter, which has an ethernet cable on the backside that you can connect to the inverter. So that way you can control it here. And you can see there's an AC button. If we did have an inverter hooked up, we don't on this one. We could easily activate our inverter for AC power.Also with our solar controller here in this kit, you're going to receive one solar panel, 190 Watts. The controller and your solar panel, as well as a little bit of wiring that comes in your kit to help you get things hooked up is for the most part all you need to get the system up and running as long as your motor home has a solar prep package.If your motor home doesn't have a solar prep package, we do sell the rooftop connectors as well as MC4 cables to route all of your wiring here in etrailer. You do get MC4 connectors that go to bare ends on the other side, which is ones that you will use with mounting one of the rooftop units that comes included with this kit. So if you don't have solar prep, you do get some of the wires. You just need to get that actual rooftop unit.But if you do have solar prep, the system install is extremely easy, due to the MC4 connectors, everything's pretty well just plug and play. There's very little wiring that you actually have to do with the solar prep because the motor home is going to have a lot of the wires already run for you and you just need to hook them up to your controller.Now that we've talked about the items that come included with the kit, let's take a look closer here at the solar panel controller. There are four buttons on it. We talked about the AC one first. If you had the inverter, you can control those. Next we have is our max boost button. And this can just temporarily put the solar panels in a max boost mode where it kind of ignores a float charge and stuff for a moment just to give it a little bit extra top off on it.So you'll get a little bit extra voltage for a short amount of time. You are limited to how many times you can activate the boost each day. We can go ahead and press the button there. And we're getting still 2.7 to connect. It can just help alter to get you a little bit extra capacity in there.And it's mainly used if you know maybe later on that night, you're going to need a little bit extra juice. Maybe you've got, you want to use your coffee maker and a couple of other things. You just really want those things that night. And you're just wanting to make sure you've got enough stored capacity in your batteries to get you through the night. You can use that max boost to just get that little extra top off to make sure you got what you need. Then we have our A and our B buttons here, and this is going to let you cycle through the menus and change your options. We can display our status here, showing our current battery voltage.This is our charge status. And currently we are taking energy from the sun and putting it into our batteries, charging at 2.7 amps. Our batteries are currently at an 82% state of charge, and this is a running total of the amount of amp powers that you have stored into your batteries from your solar unit. We've just pulled it outside here a few moments ago. So we currently don't have anything built up in the bank, but you can see here that we are charging.There's also a USB port here. So if you have any devices that you need to charge, you can do so directly from your panel right there. Another thing I like about this controller is the versatility of batteries that it can function properly with. We've currently got it set to flooded lead-acid batteries, which is what our customer has. But you can also change to other types.We'll just quickly cycle to another type, just so you can see all of them. You can just hold down the B button for three seconds to enable the menu. It's going to start on battery bank one. And if we just press the B button we can cycle through. We have Lithium, sealed, AGM, and then the regular flooded lead-acid. And if we hold down the A button for three seconds, we'll select whichever one we we're on last. So we're currently on the flooded lead-acid. So we're going to hold down A, that's going to choose flooded lead-acid.Now, if you had a second battery bank hooked up to the battery bank to position on the back of the unit here, instead of just finishing that menu, it would then go to the selection for battery bank too. So you could choose the proper batteries for that bank.So that's pretty cool that you can choose the different battery types on different banks. So if you've got maybe a Lithium battery bank here, but you also want to use it for another battery bank that you use for something else, and there a different style, maybe they're a cheaper battery because they don't need to have as much capacity. You could easily tap those in on the other battery bank and get the appropriate charge strategy you need for those batteries.So now that we identified that we have solar prep on here, we can go ahead and get our solar panels out and we can start preparing those. You'll want to save the boxes that they come in, because they're extremely useful for figuring out the layout where you want them on the roof because they're a lot lighter. These panels are pretty heavy and moving them around up there on the roof can be pretty cumbersome. So using the boxes to determine the location you want to put them in, we'll just help save you a little bit of time and energy.We can go ahead and prepare these though, to be placed on the roof. We can do that right now. Each one is going to come with four brackets. We're adding an expansion kit. So we're going to be putting two solar panels on. You can get the expansion here at each trailer. It's just going to come with another panel as well as the mounting hardware to get it installed. In addition to that, you'll also receive the connectors. So that way you can tie this one in to this one, these just connect them together.We're going to place them on the outer corners. You'll have several holes that run down the sides and they have them there in case just you have some obstructions on your roof or something. But if you have the opportunity, we want to use the ones furthest out. We'll take our bolts. Each one is going to have a washer on it. It's going to slide through our bracket down through our panel. And then on the other side, we're going to place another washer. And then we can follow that up with a nylon locking nut.And we're just going to do this for each of these. They are slotted. So you can kind of move them around if you needed some minor adjustment for any obstructions you might have on your roof. I've already taken a look up on the roof on this particular one. And there's plenty of room up there, but on some of your tighter roofs, these little cut outs and stuff might really come in handy. Now we're going to tighten it down using an 11 millimeter socket and wrench.We're just going to try to center it a little bit better. It doesn't have to be because these are just holding it on the roof. And then we'll just repeat that for the remaining three on this panel at each corner. And then we'll do the same thing with our other solar panel. We're now on the roof. And this is why I recommended saving your boxes. Since you know your solar panel came inside of it, you know that it's around the same size, if not slightly smaller. And this way you can use these to determine where you're going to put your solar panels, where are you going to have room.We're going to be placing ours here right next to one another, right here on the side. And we chose to use the boxes just because it's a lot easier to carry them up here by yourself. When we go to bring the solar panels up, we're going to use an assistant to help us because they're so much heavier. It's kind of cumbersome going up your ladder. But with the boxes, you can easily get the layout figured out before you start and then grab your assistant.So we've got our assistants down below and they're just handing the panels up. These panels are so long that they can easily pass them up to you. And then we've got our boxes here that we left layout. So we can bring them over and set them up on top of those. So we don't scratch the roof or anything like that, especially if you've got a more fabric type of roof. And then we're going to grab the other one and set it in place.So now that we've got them both up here, we're going to get these boxes out of the way, and we're going to get these set down. But I'm going to show you what we're going to put on the bottom of the brackets to ensure that we get good ceiling before we get them in place. We have butyl tape here at etrailer.com, and it's extremely sticky tape that will seal up our screw holes as we're going to make them in the roof because we're about ready to drop these screws down through these holes and go right into our rooftop here.So now we're going to use some butyl tape before we set these down on the roof because our screws that it comes provided with here, they're going to secure it right to the roof, but we don't want water wicking down the screws into our roof. And this stuff's kind of like a really sticky putty, and it's going to grab onto the threads and seal it up all the way down. So we don't have to worry about moisture coming inside. We are going to be using another sealer on top, just as a second layer of protection, but this stuff here really does a great job. So you'll want to make sure you get a little bit of the butyl tape when putting these on your roof. So we're just going to rip some pieces off here, just about the length that we need.And then we're just going to set it in place. And it's okay if you've got a little bit of overhang or anything like that because again, we're going to be adding another sealant on top once we're done and that's going to cover any of that up. So we're going to take each of the feet that we'd put on and we're going to put butyl tape on all of them before we flip it over.I waited to put the butyl tape on until we got them up here because it's so sticky. It's easy for the stuff to just get all over everything and rip off. So now we can go ahead and start laying it into position. When putting your solar panels down, you do want to pay attention to your electrical wiring and where it's at. We're going to be taking our two electrical boxes here with the wiring and making sure that they're next to each other. So I'm going to have this panel with the box facing towards the rear and the other panel is going to be facing towards the front. So these two are close to one another so I can easily get them plugged together. As far as our box here, it's outlived its uses. Make sure there's nobody down below and it's just a box. So you can just drop that right off the site.I'm going to get this guy set up. Now the butyl tape is very sticky. So try to get it into the spot you want it before letting it all the way down. Because once you go all the way down, you have to kind of fight the butyl tape to get it back up. So I'm going to try to get it even front to rear, kind of using the events here to help me line it up, to get it straight.Now that we've got them set into place. We don't want to screw it down just yet because we want to run our cables. So we know that we have enough cable length to go from where we want our panels to be to where the connector is on our roof. So I'm going to go ahead and lift up on the panels, because you're likely not going to be able to fit your arm underneath to grab the wires, which is another reason why we're not screwing it down.We're just going to pull these out. These are MC4 connectors. So it's just a standard connection here at the end. And these are going to plug into either an extension cable or directly into your roof connection spot, depending on where you've got them at, or if you're installing multiple panels, you can use the adapter that comes included with the panels that connects them together.We've got the MC4 adapters here that came with the expansion solar panel. And you can see here how they have two input and one output. They're all labeled as positive and negative on the connectors. And with MC4, you can't really get it wrong. It's only going to plug in one way. So we're just going to grab our connector here from our solar panel. We're going to plug it into the connector that fits in here and we're going to grab the connector from the other solar panel and plug it in. And then we're going to do the same thing with our other adapter here.Now that we've got our solar panels connected together, we can take our extension cable and we're going to plug those in. Again, it's MC4, so you can't get them wrong. It's only going to fit one way. Then we'll route our cables towards the back to where our rooftop connector is. If you've got a prep package, you're going to have one of these on the roof. So if you see that cover that we talked about earlier down below, you'll have one up here and this is where our solar panels are going to connect to.They have the standard MC4 connections on them. So it makes it work really well with these panels. You'll want to make sure you remove the plugs out of your cables and as well as the little plugs that are on the end of the rooftop connector. Ones on here are a little deteriorated, but the connections are just fine. It's just the rubber plug to help keep out moisture. So just pull those out of the way and then we can plug our cables in. Again, MC4, you can't mix them up. So we just plug them right in. And then I'm going to wrap the cable kind of in a loop right around here. And we can use our connector here on the roof to keep our wires secured.So now that we've made sure that we have the correct length and everything's connected together, now we can go ahead and secure these to the roof. We're going to use the included screws and just run them right down into the bracket. There's two screws per bracket and four brackets per solar panel. Now we've got these rundown. I'm just going to repeat this for the remaining brackets. Now that our solar panels are secured to our roof, we have the butyl tape on bottom that seals it up. But our second level of defense is going to be some self-leveling sealant.And we're just going to be real generous with this. And we're going to squirt it all over the top of each bracket, making sure that we cover up the screw holes and all the way across the top edges of the bracket, that's going to fully seal it up onto our roof. After we've let it set for a few minutes, we're going to go back and just check our self-leveling sealant. It doesn't take very long for it to start to level out. We want to look to make sure we didn't miss any spots. We're squirted around here, and now we can see that it's completely covered.We're not inside of our motor home. And this is our sink right here. We're going to be mounting the solar controller just underneath the sink in this opening, just above our cabinets here. So to get the wires routed here, we're going to actually run them just straight through the floor. And there should be enough length on the solar prep wires so that we can route them up to make the connections to the controller. So we need to get underneath here. If we open up our cabinet, we really don't have a lot of room to work through there. So we're going to pull our cabinets out.And once you got them pulled out, on each side you're going to have a tab that you're going to need to press to release the cabinet. Push up, other one down, slide it back. And there we go. Repeat that for the remaining drawers until they're all removed. Now that we've got all of our drawers out of the way, we've got a lot more room to work because we're going to be routing the cables up in this area over here. Be kind of on the side of these cabinets.So to get a little bit more room, there's also a cover here on the side that we can take off. So we're going to go ahead and remove that now. And this covers just the vent opening that we're going to be opening up so we can see right behind it after removing the drawers that there's nothing there and this is going to give us even more room to work. There's just four screws in the corners. So we're just going to zip these four screws out and then we can set our panel aside.So now we've got plenty of room to work and this is really where we're going to be mainly focused on getting our wires up because we can see now the side of our drawers. And we're going to try to wrap the cables down along this edge here. And then up to where we're going to put our controller. You could also mount your controller directly into the side panel. If you've got something like this, it's likely going to cover it up and it's going to be down really low. So to make it a little bit easier to access and see and use, that's why we're going to put it closer up under the sink.So now we're back in this cabinet again and I've got a drill bit. It's a 15th, 16th in size. It doesn't necessarily need to be this size, but it doesn't need to be pretty big because the cables for your solar prep package that are down there are pretty thick. They're almost as thick as my pinky. I believe they're four gauge wires. And in order for them to pass through, since there's two wires, we need a pretty big hole. So somewhere close to an inch, 15, 16 tier should be close enough.And we're just going to go straight down. I did look below to make sure that there was nothing below this. What I was looking for, since this is our sink, I was looking for the pipe that goes down through and I'll point out that pipe when I show you the path that I'm going to wrap the cables over.Now that we've gone ahead and made our hole here. We did hit metal down below and due to the awkwardness of this location to drill, we're going to switch to a smaller drill bit. We're going to drill a pilot hole. That way we can see it on the bottom and we'll drill from straight up.So here's the hole where we drilled through. We just did a small bit when we hit that metal because this larger bit here through metal in that cabinet was just too hard to put the right pressure on it that I needed. So you can go through with a small bit that way you can find it on here and we can get much better pressure down here, pushing upward on the bottom to finish drilling it out. And I just wanted to point out how we had chose this location and knew it was going to be in the compartment for the sink.If we go straight over towards the passenger side, this is the pipe that's coming down from your sink right there. So that's why we knew we can just go straight over. And we knew when we we're up top on the inside that we we're going to stay inside that sink cabinet area there. So all our wires are going to be hidden.We're once again underneath the RV. And what we're looking at here is the hole on the backside of the compartment where we found our solar panel wires. We took that cover off on the inside of that compartment. If you just untied those wires, they got a little knot that keeps it from pulling out of this hole and you can pull it out of this hole and we can ride it over to the hole that we had drilled in the floor. So if we just followed down the frame rail, that's where the wire is going to be routed in some of the zip ties.It comes from the unit on top and it routes down this frame rail. So once you get back to about where we drilled the hole straight over on the frame, you can just take the wire from that point, route it over, and then route it up into the hole that we had drilled. You're also going to notice that we've got another wire going through this hole. And this is a 10 gauge duplex wire, which we sell here at etrailer. And I've got 12 foot of this, and this is going to be the connection from our solar controller to the battery compartment that's located just next to where that solar prep compartment was.And 12 feet is going to give you just enough length. It's going to go to that controller and over there, and you'll have just a little bit of excess on each side. So just in case you make any mistakes when crippling your wires, you've got a few inches on each side to play with. So now we're again, we're back inside and these are the wires, the solar ones that we routed up through the hole in the floor. And then that duplex wire that we had also run with that.They just come up through this hole here and then we're just pulling them out through this top cabinet right here, just to hold them there for now, because we're going to be mounting the solar controller right up here in this opening. This is what our solar controller looks like, right here. And we need to cut out an area in the back, right here in our panel for this to slide through. And it'll sit flush right up against there. All of our wire connections, we can make directly to this and it's going to be on the right side.So that'll help keep our wires off to the side too. So that way they don't interfere with our drawers opening and closing. I've gone ahead and marked out the area that we're going to be cutting for this to fit. And this is five and three quarter by three and a quarter inch. And that's going to give you a nice snug fit around it. You can always take a file to it if you need to loosen it up if it's not quite fitting in there if you cut it.So now we're going to go ahead and cut this out. And in order to cut this out, what we're going to do is take a drill bit first and we're going to drill just on the inside of each of the corners. And then that'll allow us to get our jigsaw blade to fit in so we can cut out the remaining material. So we're going to take our drill bit. We're using about a half inch. It doesn't really matter the size as long as your jigsaw blade can fit through the hole. So you can make your cut. We're just going to go right to the inside of the corner and drill it just like that.You want to make sure you don't push too hard because our sink is right on the other side. We don't want to dent it or anything like that. There is enough space between our sink and this panel here for our controller to fit.So now we've got each hole drill. We're just going to take our jigsaw blade and run it along the edges cutting it out. Just go slow. Since this is a little bit recessed, it's going to be hard to get your jigsaw flush. So it can be a little bit difficult just because of that. So just take your time and just drill. It's a soft wood so it cuts pretty easily.Now we've got it cut out. We'll just test our fit. And if it doesn't quite fit, we're going to use a file to just clean up the edges. And it looks like I'm going to have to do just a little bit of touching up, but it's very close. So I'm going to take my file and you can see there's a couple of spots where I didn't quite go all the way to our mark there. And this is just easier to just use a file to clean up those spots. And then you can just test the fit.So now we've got it all filed out and cleaned up and we test our fit. We've got a nice snug fit to where it will hold itself in place for us. And we're nice and even so we don't need to make any more adjustments there. It looks like that's going to work out really well. It looks really good like that as it is, and we haven't even got our screws in it. I don't need to put them in just yet though, because we do need to hook up our wiring now.So we're just going to take these wires, we're going to pass them through our opening and then we're going to go ahead and strip back each one of these wires. If you're working outside, then these wires here are hooked up to our solar panel. So you may want to run up on the roof and disconnect the connector just in case you are working at a nice bright sunny day right on the rooftop connector.You can just disconnect those MC4 connectors real quick, and then we can strip these back and get these hooked up. So I'm going to go ahead and get all these stripped back. If you get the duplex wire here, you are going to have to cut some of the sheathing off. You can use your side cutters or a razor knife, whatever you want to get those off as well. So I just took my razor knife and just slipped down there. That allows me to pull this out and I can just take my cutters here and just cut off this excess that we don't need. And then we'll just strip them all back. It's kind of nasty like this on the cut on the end. You might want to just snip that off because it might make it difficult to insert the, and into the controllers if the ends are all messed up. So we're just going to cut just the tips off there. And then we'll strip them back.Here on the back of our controller, we're going to need to make all of our connections. They are all labeled. It's kind of a gray and white. So it's a little hard to see on camera. But what we've got is the pairs here. They're going to be in pairs of two for positive and negative. The top two holes are our positive and negative for battery bank one. The bottom two holes are the positive and negative for battery bank two. So you can charge two separate banks with this. And then our solar panel positive and negative are going to be here in the middle.So we're just going to start by getting our solar panel hooked up. So we're going to loosen up both of the screws, using a flathead screwdriver. You can see it opening up in the chamber down here. Go ahead and do this one too. And now that we've got them opened up, we're just going to take our positive wire, which on our solar prep is going to be the red wire. We'll just slide it in and then tighten it down.You don't need to go crazy with it. We don't want to break it, we just need it to be in there nice and snug. Then we'll slide the white wire in to the one next to it, labeled solar panel negative. And we're only going to be using battery bank one for this particular install. If you did have a separate battery bank, you could hook it up here as well. And with something that could be kind of neat you could do is you even hook this up on a switch and you could have this go. If you have your motor home, you could have this go to your start battery. And in the event that for whatever reason your start battery was low, you could flip the switch on and then you could charge your start battery out there on solar as well. And then you could just disconnect it.So we're going to go over here now and just remove our screws for the battery bank one. And then we're going to slide in our wires that we had stripped back here. But real quick, before we slide these in, and what we're going to do is we're going to go to the other end of this wire. And all I'm going to do is I'm going to cut the sheathing off and then I'm going to pull these two leads apart. I'm going to trim off the nasty ends that was over there, just to make sure these two aren't touching on the other end, just in case our solar controller decides to go charge it.Now if you disconnected the ones up on top, you don't have to worry about any of that until you plug those back in because there's no chance that these are going to charge. We're inside our shop here. So we're not going to get enough sunlight for that to happen. But just in case at home is good practice just to make sure your other wires on the other side aren't touching together.Now we've got these loose. We're just going to slide our wires in. We're going to use the black wire from our duplex as our positive. So we're going to just slide in that in the battery bank one positive slot and tightening down the screw.Then right next to that is the negative slot, which is going to be our white wire from our duplex. I'll just push in right next to it. And then we'll snug that one down. Next we'll be hooking up the other end of these wires to our battery, but we can go ahead and get our controller mount in. Just slide it in place. Now we're just going to take the included screws here, little black ones, they come in a little pouch and running into each of the corners. You don't want to go too tight with these either. This is some pretty soft wood here, so it wouldn't take much to strip this out.So we really just want to go until it kind of stops just so it's snug. We already got a nice, good cut that's holding it in there nice and snug. So these screws are really just that extra level. That's going to ensure it's not going to come out. So now we're out of here at our battery box. You can see we do have some excess wire here. The battery tray, the customer's wires are already fairly tight. The tray usually should slide out a little bit further than this.So we're going to make sure that we make our wires long enough to where if that ever gets altered to where it can slide all the way out, it will be able to. So we're going to probably turn it back to about here. So we're going to go ahead and strip off some of this duplex and we're going to start stripping the duplex about here so that we can run our wire one to negative, one to positive. And slide our razor knife, just right down the center between the two wires. Well then just trim off the extra duplex and then we can cut our wires to length.So our black is our positive. We're going to give ourselves a little bit of excess, our whites are the negative, we're also going to give ourselves a little bit of excess. So we're just going to trim off each of those. We can then strip each end back and then we're going to crimp a ring terminal on our ground wire here. But before we hook up our positive, there is a fuse that comes in your kit and we're going to be installing that in line on our positive wire.So here we have our fuse harness. It's going to come looped. So we're going to go ahead and just cut the loop. And then we're going to strip back each side of our harness. We'll then take one side of our harness. We're going to crimp on a butt connector that comes included. Then you're going to receive two small things of heat shrink. We're going to slide both of these over and this way we can shrink over one side of the butt connector and then over the other to seal that up. So we're going to slide this onto our black wire here. And this is a little bit long, so we can actually trim just a little bit more off the black wire just to keep things neat. So we're just going to trim a little more off thereAnd then we'll strip it back. And then we can go ahead and hook up our fuse harness to the black wire. And then real quick, before we grab our heat gun and shrink down the heat shrink, we're just going to go ahead and crimp on the other side of our harness here. And that's going to get a ring terminal so we can connect it to the battery. Now, the ring terminals that we're using here come included with your kit, but you can get some here at etrailer. So you can go ahead and add it to your cart when you purchase your panels. So now we're just going to slide the heat shrink down over our butt connector, and then we'll just shrink it down.So now we're going to start making our connections. The nut right here we're just going to remove on this particular battery, it's going to be a nine sixteenths wrench. And this is our positive terminal. So we're going to take our positive wire and we're going to hook it up to that. And we can go ahead and just snug that down. Then we'll hook up our negative just to remove the nut. Slide our ring terminal in, and then just re-install the nut.So now that we've got everything nice and snug, we've made all of our connections, all that is left now is to insert the fuse into our fuse harness here. So we're just going to open this up. We're going to take the included fuse, which is a 30 amp. We're going to slide it into the harness there and then crimp it down. This way we've got easy access to our fuse. If we ever need it, we can just simply open up our battery compartment tray, and it's going to be right there for us.We'll just slide that back in and then we'll head inside and check out our controller. So now we've got it all hooked up here on the inside. We can see that it's illuminated. We've got it all hooked up. And we noticed that the sun symbol is illuminated here in the top left. And that indicates that our solar panels are currently producing some voltage indicating that it's daylight. So here in the shop, it is enough to at least detect that something's there. But if we hit the B button we can scroll through with a different status modes to see what's going on. Currently we're at 12.4 volts.We're not charging at any amps right now. And that's likely because we're just got a few shop lights that are on the ceiling up there. It's not enough light to produce enough current to charge the batteries, but it is enough for the panels to detect the sunlight, which does indicate that our system is working. We've got our current state of charge. And then we have how many amp hours, our solar system has charged our battery.Now, the other thing, here at the bottom, you'll see where it says AGM, and yours might say something different. This is the battery type, and we actually need to select this because our battery is not an AGM battery. So once you got it hooked up, you do want to select the appropriate type of battery that you have in your motor home. With this one, we're going to have just a regular flooded lead-acid battery.So we're going to hold down the B button for three seconds until it starts to flash. Then we'll press the B button to change the type and you can cycle through all those. There's flooded, there's lithium, there's sealed, AGM and then we're back to flooded once again. We're going to go ahead and stick with the flooded option.After selecting flooded, it will time out here momentarily, and then it will be selected. If you had a second battery bank hooked up, it would then switch to battery bank two instead of just ending. So you can choose the correct battery type for your battery bank two, which that's really cool. So if you have two different types of batteries in your battery bank, you can get the appropriate charging that you need for that type of battery.After holding it down for about three seconds, you'll see that it starts to flash. If we press the B button, we can then cycle through the various types. So we've got sealed, AGM, flooded lead acid, which is what we've currently got and Lithium. So we're just going to go back through to flooded. And then we'll hold the A button down for three seconds to select it.And if you had a second set of batteries hooked up to battery bank two, it would switch to battery bank two and allow you to choose the profile for it. Since we don't have anything hooked up, it just ends it and stores it as being for a flooded lead-acid battery. So this is pretty cool. This controller here will allow you to charge two separate battery banks and they can be completely different types of batteries. And the controller's going to ensure they get the appropriate charging method that's required for them.And we can scroll through and see we're at about 12.8 volts now. And we are currently running, we've got our batteries hooked up. We got the lights on in here. We're not running a lot of loads, but we do get the lights on. So there is a small drain on our battery, but we're still able to charge the batteries, even though we're drawing some current out of it. And that completes our look at Go Powers solar panel kit.