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Draw-Tite Front Mount Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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How to Install a Draw-Tite Front Mount Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500


Today, 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 we're going to be taking a look at. I'm going to show you how to install a drop type, front mount, trailer hitch receiver.This is what our hitch looks like when it's installed. As you can see, the cross tube is completely hidden behind the bumper fascia. The only thing here we can see, is going to be our receiver tube.This front mount hitch is going to have a 2" x 2" receiver tube opening. It's going to have a reinforced collar to give it a little extra stability on the receiver tube. Hitch pin hole, which is this hole here.

It's going to be 5/8" inch in diameter. It takes a standard 5/8" hitch pin and clip. It does not come with the hitch, however it can be found here at etrailer.com.This whole here, this is for a j-pin stabilization device only. And what that does is takes the shake and play out of any of your hitch mount accessories you may need. Or may use.This hitch is going to have a nice powder coat finish, that's going to resist any rust or corrosion.As far as our weight capacities go, we're going to have a 500 pound max ton weight, which is the downward pressure inside of the receiver tube.

And a 9,000 pound straight line pull, which is straight off the hitch.Now I always recommend checking the owners manual to make sure the front axle can handle that amount of weight. You always want to go with the lowest number between the gross front axle weight of the vehicle, and the hitch.This hitch is going to work great for any of your front mounted hitch accessories you may need. Cargo carriers, spare tire holder, even plows or winches.Now let's give you a few measurements to help you in deciding on any hitch mount accessories you may need.From the ground to the top inner most part of the receiver tube, it's going to be about 17 inches.Now let's show you how to get this installed.When you have your vehicle in a level room. Then we're going to measure to the center of our tow hook. Which is where our bolt runs though.And what we're going to do, is we're going to transfer that, right here, to the center of our plate.

Once you find that mark, we're going to come down, there's some tracks 3-5/8". And mark is going to be right here.So from that, we're going to measure up 3-1/4". That will be the top of our cut out. And then from the center we're going to measure out, each side, 1-5/8".So you can see what I did. I made the square with some tape.

I double checked my measurements, which I suggest doing because I had to move mine just a little bit, once I look at it again it looked like I was off one way just a little bit more than the other. I just remeasured, got my square. Used the tape to draw my square. That's what I'll be cutting out.Now our directions don't tell us to take off our license plate holder here. They are riveted in. The problem is our fascia behind it Our hitch has to come through it. So what we're going to do is we're going to drill a hole in each corner of this. We're going to go all the way through the fascia, so when we take this off it's going to give us a square in our fascia where we need to cut out.So if you notice, our fascia kind of dips down right here. When you're doing this bottom row, when you get this in you're going to feel it kind of move. Pull it back out. Hold it steady so you can get a straight hole in. If you don't you're going to go off to the side or it's going to go up or way down low.To get our license plate holder removed, I'm actually going to drill out the center of each rivet.What I did was I just taped off my square again. Take my dremel tool, and I'll cut right along the line. Now we can take utility knife and clean up all of our burrs.Next, we're going to have two bolts we need to remove on each side of the vehicle. One is going to be this bottom one. The other one is this on here, holding your tow hook in place. This will be reinstalled, we just need to take it out to get our hitch into place.Use an 18 mm socket to remove both of those. The top one is going to have a nut on one side, it's going to be a bolt that goes all the way through the frame rail and has a nut on the other side. And this one just bolts up through the bottom of the tow hook.Once you get your lower bolt out, slide your top one out. I'm actually just going to leave my tow hooks sit there. If you don't feel comfortable with it sitting there you can pull it out, just stick it back in when you throw your hitch up.I'm going to take carriage bolt, space block, pull wire. I'm going to thread on our bolt and spacer block onto our pull wire. We're going to go through this large hole, bolt first. Then spacer block, and pull it back down like that.You're going to do that same thing on the other side.In our instructions it tells us to lift it straight up, into position. Except we can't do that. There's a metal bracket on the back of our fascia. There's a bar that runs right across here. And it's hard to get our hitch to go in and up, with this bracket. It's kind of hard to flex it. What I'm going to try to do, I'm going to move this first, so I don't damage it. I just pop the plastic clips off and I get it up, out of the way. Going to stick up here somewhere so we don't pinch it when we get our hitch in.I'm going to try and get my wedge my hitch in, so I can get it into place. We'll have to see where we can go. There's not a whole lot of movement here so, let's try and see what we can do.There we go. Like that. Get our pull wires through the corresponding holes in the hitch. Bolts through, down like that. If you find your bolt goes up into the hole, pull your tow hook out and you can reach inside that frame rail.What it is, is this bar that runs across here goes all the way through there and that bolt might get stuck underneath it. You can just reach up there and grab it. Slide your tow hook back into place.We're going to put our small bolt in. The small bolt's going to go through the bottom, into this little hole. So you need to line up that hole with this front hole on the hitch. Then go ahead and put the same one in on the other side. And if you notice, our hitch is not sitting flat, even though we don't have it completely tight, our hitch is not sitting flat and I can't push it up any more. Well what it is, is I need to come down just a little bit more right here, because the bottom of our hitch is pushing down, and the top is pushing up on the top of it.So I'm going to trim this out, just a little bit more down here. And it should allow the tongue of my hitch, or the receiver side of my hitch to fall down, bringing the back of it up.Remove your pull wire. And we're going to put on inaudible 00:07:32 the washer and make sure the teeth are facing up towards the hitch. And a nut. And we're going to take the bolt that we removed in the beginning. Once you get your bolt in, you want to make sure going form the inside out and you want to go through your tow hook.Next we're going to tighten and torque all of our hardware to the specifications in the instructions. And as far as our wiring, you can see it's kind of tight there in our inaudible 00:08:00, we're not going to be able to get it on. So I'm going to take a long zip tie, I'm going to zip tie it right to my hitch. That'll keep it from bouncing around, causing damage to it.That'll do it for a look at an instillation on a drop type, front bump trailer hitch receiver on our 2017 Chevy Silverado 2500.


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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Michael B

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