Firestone Ride-Rite Air Command Kit Installation - 2012 Toyota Sienna

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How to Install a Firestone Ride-Rite Air Command Kit for on a 2012 Toyota Sienna


Today on our 2012 Toyota Sienna, we'll be installing the Firestone Ride Rite Air Command kit for Android Smartphones, Part number F2556. This will be in conjunction with the previously installed Firestone Coil Rite Air Helper Springs, Part number F4155. We're ready to go ahead and test the new Firestone Ride Rite Air Command kit. Once you've downloaded the Firestone Air Command app onto your smartphone, you'll need to open and connect your Bluetooth to the ECU. Once you find and pair with the ECU, you're now ready to use the Firestone Air Command smartphone app. You'll then open the app, connect to the ECU. Once connected, we can use the plus button or minus button to add or subtract air from our airbag system.

Let's go ahead and add air. As we add air to the airbags, you can watch them inflate and squeeze in around the coils. Then once we're finished, we can go ahead and release the air, letting it back out and you can watch the airbags deflate. To begin our install, we'll first need to mount our compressor assembly. Compressor assembly has four attachment points. These will be secured with the bolt, flat washer and nylon lock nut provided with our install kit.

Now for this application, we're going to mount the compressor under the hood. To gain access to the front and back of the mounting location, we're going to remove the passenger's front wheel, and then remove the fasteners for the inner fender well on the front half of the passenger's front wheel-well. There are multiple fasteners to be removed, both pushpin and screw type. Once we remove all the fasteners, you can go ahead and fold the wheel-well out of the way. Now we can gain access to the inner fender-well, both underneath the hood and inside the wheel-well. Next, we'll take the compressor and set it in position.

Using a drill bit, we'll go ahead and mark the attachment points. Now, with the attachment points marked, we'll go ahead and remove the compressor out of the way, and draw the hole. Once you draw out a pilot hole, for each attachment point, you can then go ahead and take the larger 7/32 bit and go from the wheel-well back in towards the engine compartment, where you have a little more working room. Now, with all four holes drilled out, we'll then go ahead and put our compressor in position, installing the bolt, flat washer, go through the compressor, through the fender and then securing on the other side with an additional flat washer and then the nylon lock nut. Note, it can be difficult to get your hardware in position once in place.

It's easier to put the bolt and flat washer over the attachment point and then push the bolt through so it doesn't interfere with the body or assembly of the compressor. We'll go ahead and set the compressor in position. We'll go ahead and install the flat washer and nylon lock nut to these two, to hold the hardware in place. Then we can install a second two fasteners, flat washer and nylon lock nut. We'll go ahead and tighten them down. Now with the compressor mounted, we'll need to install the compressor T fitting. This will go into the check valve in the top of the compressor. We'll remove the rubber plug, and then install the compressor T fitting, making sure that we get the threads lined up and tightened down enough that the sealant on the threads will engage with the check valve. Next, we'll need to install the exhaust valve. But before we do, we'll add the fade connector provided with our install kit. Once we put the fade connector on, we'll just crimp it down. We'll remove the rubber cap from the exhaust valve, now we can go ahead and install the exhaust valve onto the top of the compressor T fitting. Next, we're ready to install the ECU. The ECU's going to mount to the firewall here. In order to make room for the ECU, we'll go ahead and remove the manufacturer's stud that's not being used. Using a cutoff wheel, we're going to go ahead and cut the stud off now. With the stud out of the way, we're ready to go ahead and mark the two attachment points for the ECU. Hold the ECU in position, and mark it with a drill bit. Once it's marked, we'll go ahead and drill out the attachment points. Then we can go ahead and pull up on the plastic cover, just above the ECU mounting point, near the windshield wiper blades. This plastic cover is just a push snap fastener that goes to the sheet metal. We'll squeeze the fastener and pull up on the plastic, which will release it. Once we have it up high enough to get our hand in position, we can then go ahead and put the ECU in place, install the bolt on the backside, adding a flat washer and nylon lock-nut. Once we have both fasteners in place, we'll then go ahead and tighten it down. Now with our compressor and ECU secured and in position, our next step will be installing the wiring harness. Starting with the ECU 14 pin connector, we can plug it directly into the ECU. Then we'll take the yellow and black wire from the exhaust valve and connect it with the green wire and black wire from our wiring harness. We'll match up yellow from the exhaust valve to green from our wiring harness. Then match black to black. Next we'll take the black wire from our compressor with the inaudible 00:06:25 ring terminal and ground it to the body or sheet metal of the vehicle. Here, just above the compressor is a great location where the sheet metal doubles up and will provide a secure ground. Using a self tapping screw, we'll go ahead and attach the ground ring terminal now. Then we'll take the red wire from our compressor and match it up with the red wire that comes off the relay portion of our wiring harness. Now with these connection points installed and secured, we'll go ahead and wrap them up with some black electrical tape to help keep them free from dirt, dust, debris or moisture. Then using some zip ties, we'll secure the excess wiring as necessary. Now, we'll go ahead and install the relay onto the relay end of of the wiring harness. We'll go ahead and take the attachment point of the relay and secure it to the body using a self tapping screw. Now with that done, we'll go ahead and take the rest of our wiring harness and start routing it over to the driver side. Keep in mind when routing the wires, stay away from any moving components or excessive heat. We'll go ahead and secure wiring as we route it over to the driver side. Want to go underneath the air inlet, for the engine, so we'll go ahead and remove the two fasteners that hold it in position, pull it up, route the wire underneath of it, and then re-install the fasteners. Now, that we're over on the driver side, we'll need to take the yellow wire from our Air Command wiring harness and install it to a mission switch operated 12 volt battery source. To do that, we'll go ahead and remove the cover from the fuse box, here on the driver side. Pulling out on the tabs on the back and pressing on the tab in the front will release the fuse box cover. We'll remove the fuse box cover and locate the pin that has the power on both sides of the fuse only when the ignition is engaged. Here's a great location to use. We'll go ahead and remove the manufacturer fuse and install it into the fuse tab. We'll need to take the yellow wire from our Air Command wiring harness and connect it to using the butt connector provided with our fuse tap. Install an additional 10amp fuse for our yellow power wire. Install our fuse tap, then we'll go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape. We can now re-install the fuse box cover. Next, we'll take the red and black wire, with the pre-attached ring terminals and secure to the manufacturer's positive and negative battery posts. Red to positive, black to negative. We'll go ahead and secure any excess wiring here in the engine compartment and use the zip ties to secure wiring. Then we'll cut off the excess from the zip ties to clean up our install look. Now with our wiring harness installed and secured, we're ready to start running the air line. We'll route the air line from front to back, starting in the engine compartment, working our way down the firewall and towards the back of the vehicle. Keep in mind when routing your air line or wiring, to stay away from any moving components of the steering or suspension or excessive heat such as exhaust. As we route the line, we'll also secure it with some zip ties. Once we finish routing the line to the back, we'll go ahead and cut off the excess in zip ties to clean up our install look and then we'll move back to the engine compartment, where we can take our Firestone Tubing Cutter, Part number F9009, to cut off any excess line. So we'll mark the length and cut it off. Keep in mind when cutting the line, to make it a square clean cut and not to crimp the tube as you cut the line. Now with our cut made, we'll go ahead and put it in the back of the T that we installed in our compressor earlier. Press it firmly into the T, and then pull back gently to lock it in place. Now we'll move underneath the vehicle. This particular airbag set up has a line for each airbag, so we'll need two additional Firestone Union Ts for quarter inch tubing, part number F3025-1. We'll go ahead and take our tubing cutter and cut both lines. We can then go ahead and take the Ts and plug them in line with the previously installed air lines. Next, we'll go ahead and take the leftover air line and route from the blue air line Ts to the red air line T. We'll then go back to the main line we ran from our compressor and cut it to length and install the T provided with the install kit. Now, with air in our system, we'll go ahead and spray down each one of the air fittings to check for leaks. Once we verify and check for leaks, we're now ready to hit the road. That does it for the install, the Firestone Ride Rite Air Command kit for Android smartphones, Part number F2556, in conjunction with the previously installed Firestone Coil Rite Air Helper Springs, Part number F4155, the Firestone Union T for quarter inch tubing, Part number F3025-1, and our Firestone Tubing Cutter, Part number F9009, for our 2012 Toyota Sienna. .


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