Firestone Level Command II Installation - 2012 Ford F-250

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How to Install the Firestone Level Command II on a 2012 Ford F-250


Today on our 2012 Ford F250, we're going to be installing the Firestone Level Command II, Standard Duty Compressor with a Single-Gauge, Part Number F2158. Before we begin our installation, this vehicle already has the airbags installed on it. We're going to need to make sure that there's no air left in either of the air bags. We're going to go ahead and bleed off the air. Next, we're going to need to choose the mounting location for our compressor. We're underneath the driver side along the inside of the frame rail. We're going to go ahead and pull the wire bundle here out of the frame with this little clip.

This will give us enough movement that it can go up in the air where our compressor can fit between the wire bundle, up against the frame like that. Now that we have our compressor positioned, we're going to go ahead and take drill bit and kind of stick it in each of the holes, just twist it around a little bit to mark where we'll need to drill. Now that we have the back two holes marked, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process for the other two. You want to make sure that before drilling, you check to be sure that there's no wires, brake lines, or fuel lines, that may be in the way. Now, we're going to go ahead and take our 3/16ths drill bit and drill out the four locations that we marked. Before we actually mount our compressor to the frame, we're going to go ahead and install the air fitting that goes on the out portion of the compressor.

It will thread in just like this. You want to make sure that you tighten it down enough that the thread sealant makes contact all the way around. Well go ahead and tighten it down with our wrench. Next we're ready to go ahead and mount our compressor up on the frame. Before you actually mount your compressor, you want to make sure that there's no burrs from the holes you just drilled as they can easily damage the rubber isolators on the compressor. Next, let's go over the hardware that we're going to be using to mount our compressor to the frame. Using this machine screw, a flat washer, so it will slide the flat washer on and it will go through the grommet, through the frame, and then on the other side of the frame, we'll put another flat washer, and a nylon lock nut.

It will be the same hardware for all four locations. Now, we'll go ahead and mount our compressor here to the frame. Now that all our hardware is installed, we'll go ahead and tighten it down. You want to make sure that you don't tighten it too tight though, because you can crush the brass inserts which will cause more vibration when the compressors running. Next, while we're back here at the driver side rear of the vehicle and they've already got other air line tubing run. We're going to need to cut into it and add our T fitting.

Well go ahead and cut the line using our tubing cutter so that we get a good, clean straight cut. Next, we'll go ahead and add our T fitting in. Go ahead and just take the line and you push it on to the fitting. Same thing with the other side. Now that our fittings in place, we'll go ahead and connect our air line out to the other portion of the T fitting and route it up towards the front of the vehicle. Next, we'll go ahead and take our tubing cutter, cut the end of our air line here before we tie it in with our T fitting. Go ahead and take the end of our air line and our T fitting and we'll push it into the hole, here. Make sure you push it down tight and then gently pull back to make sure it's fully seated. Now, we'll go ahead and use a few zip ties along the way to help secure the fitting off. Next, we're going to go ahead and put a small hole in the grommet that's right here. Then we're going to push our air line tubing up through it. Now, we're going to ultimately be mounting our gauge and our switch right in this general location here. We want to make sure we leave enough tubing before we cut it to reach the back side of where our gauge will be mounted. We'll go ahead and leave ourselves a little extra tubing underneath the dash here. Take our tubing cutter, leave that there for now. It's a good idea to mark which line is which because we're actually going to be routing another air line into here. We're going to add a little bit of electrical tape to mark this one, so that we know this is the line that runs back to the air bags. We're back underneath the vehicle and we're going to need to push it back through the grommet again. This line will run to the back side of the gauge but then this one will actually run over to the air compressor itself. Go ahead and push this line in, as well. Next, we're going to go ahead and cut our tubing to length where we'll connect it to the back side of our compressor. We'll go ahead and take our tubing now that it's cut to length. We'll push it firmly into the fitting. Gently pull backwards to make sure that it's fully seated. Now, we can go ahead and use a few zip ties to help the secure the line off that we just ran. Next, we're going to need to take a cup of hot water and soak the end of our air line, and to soften it up enough so we can push it on the fitting on the compressor. Now that we have the end of our air line tube softened up, we're going to go ahead and route it back to our compressor along our other lines. We are going to be installing this line under this little bar right here. This is the air intake for the compressor. Go ahead and push it on. We're than going to continue routing our tubing up into the cab of the vehicle where our other two lines are run, and that's where we'll mount the air filter. That way it stays away from any moisture. We'll go ahead an add a few zip lines to this line, as well. Now that we have all of our lines secure with the zip ties, we're going to go ahead and trim off any excess. Next, we're going to go ahead and have to mount our relay. The relay needs to be mounted within 3 feet of the compressor. We're going to go ahead and mount it right in here alongside the frame. We're just going to drill another small hole and then we can also use that hole as the ground point for our compressor motor. To make things a little bit easier, I'm going to drill the hole actually from the outside, in towards the middle here. Next, we're going to go ahead and take one of our screws and go through the relay. We're going to put a flat washer on it. We're then going to go ahead and feed the ground wire to our compressor on to that. We can then go ahead and put it through the hole we just drilled. Then on the outside of the frame, we'll put another flat washer, followed by a locking nut. We can then go ahead an tighten down the hardware. Now we're going to take the orange wire off the relay, connect it to our red wire here, coming off the compressor itself. We're going to go ahead and add a little bit of electrical tape here to this connection to make sure it stays nice and tight, as well as to help waterproof it a little bit more. We'll go ahead and take the excess wiring here, leaving the red and the white wire out. We'll go ahead and zip tie it off. We'll go ahead and route our red wire up to the battery, and the white wire into the cab of the vehicle. We're here on the top side of the engine, we're going to go ahead and use an old section of air line tubing here as our fish wire. We're going to fish it down so that we can pull our wire up into the engine compartment. We're going to go ahead and tape our electrical line here to our pole wire. We'll go ahead and take our pole wire and pull our line up into position. Next, we're going to need to go ahead and strip back a little wire here, on our positive side that we'll connect to our battery here. Once that's stripped back, we're going to need to add a ring terminal. Because this nut here doesn't back all the way off, we're going to go ahead and trim the center out of the ring terminal, so it can slide right over the stud there. Go ahead and just take our snips, and cut the center out. Loosen up this nut and then tighten down our ring terminal. Use a zip tie to help secure the wire there. We'll then secure our inline fuse holder. Go ahead then, and trim off any excess zip tie. We having to drill an additional hole here in the gauge to secure to the underside of the dash due to the mounting location chosen. There was no metal that we could screw into, so we went ahead and drilled a hole that lined up with the metal here, underneath the dash. Next, we'll need to go drill a couple of holes on the underside of our dash. Next, to make things a little bit easier, we're going to go ahead and tie the two ground wires together. We'll go ahead and take one wire off of our switch and one wire off the illumination circuit. Cut them down and strip them back. Then go ahead and join them together using a butt connector. Next, we'll go ahead and strip off a little bit of wire from the end of the long wire that we just cut off. Put that in the other side of the butt connector. We can then go ahead and cut the end here that's got a spade connector on it. We're going to using a ring terminal to ground our wire. Next, we're going to go ahead and route our wire up around where our gauge will be located. We'll also go ahead and route our two air lines that are going to the back side of the gauge over to it. Next, we're going to need to add a piece of wire here to our positive side of our illumination lighting. We'll go ahead and strip back the ends. Connect the two together using a butt connector. Now that we have our two connections made here at the back, we'll go ahead and tape them both up. Next, we'll go ahead and take the white wire that we ran up from the compressor area, and the white wire with the spade terminal on the back of our gauge, go ahead and connect it together. We can go ahead and tape up our connection point. Next, we're going to go ahead and take our wire that we made into the double ground wire. We're going to go ahead and add a ring terminal to the end of this. Before we connect our lines to the back of our gauge, we're going to go ahead and soak them in hot water to soften them up to allow them slide on to the hose bar. Go ahead and push our line that comes from the compressor, on to the supply line stub, and our airbag line will go on right here. We'll go ahead and soak the other line. Go ahead and take our other end. Connect them then with the air bag line. We'll go ahead and remove one of these two screws here. That's where we're going to connect our ground wire in. Next, we're going to go ahead and mount the gauges to the underside of the dash. In our case, we're having the supplies and different hardware in order to mount it to the lower part of our dash. Because of the location that was chosen to mount the gauge, we needed a little bit longer machine screw. Depending on where you mount your gauge will determine whether you need additional hardware or longer hardware to mount the gauge. Now that we have our bracket mounted, we can go ahead take our excess wire and we'll pull it up here, and then we'll zip tie it off. Next, we'll go ahead and need to route a wire here that we added a little extra to over, and we'll go out this grommet right here, so that we can tie in with the fuse box. We use a couple of zip ties to secure the wires, as well as any excess wiring. There's already a slit here in our grommet. We're going to go ahead and poke a small hole through it, so we can feed our wire through. We're going to go ahead and take the air filter. We need to add this fitting to the backside of it. Go ahead and put that on there. Take our wrench and tighten it down. Next, we're going to go ahead and trim our tubing to length. Then we'll have to soak it in hot water and add it to the back of our air filter. Were going to go ahead and use a couple of zip ties and zip tie our air filter off up here to this big wire bundle. Now that we've got all our wires and air line secure, we can go ahead and trim off any excess zip tie. We've already gone ahead and checked and we know that any of these fuses here are only hot when the key is in the on position. We're go ahead and choose this 10 amp fuse here and remove it. We're going to add in a fuse tap. We'll be using the Firestone Fuse Circuit Tap Kit today, to tie into our fuse box. That's Part number F2526. Here's the fuse tap that we'll be adding in place. We'll need to connect our wire here to the butt connector. Trim our wire down. Strip some wire back so we can connect it in line. Tape up our connection. Put our 10 amp fuse that we removed in the lower portion. Add a new 10 amp fuse for our illumination light. With our two fuses in, we can go ahead and plug it back in place and put the cover back on the fuse box. Go ahead and put our key in the ignition and we'll turn it to the on position. You'll notice the illumination light will light up. We'll go ahead and push up on the switch that will put air into the air bags or turn the compressor on. We'll go ahead and pump up our air bags to about 70 psi and check for leaks at all the different fittings. We'll take a soapy water solution. We'll start back here at the rear of the vehicle and spray our T fitting down. Looks like that fitting is good. Next, we'll move ahead and go up to the air compressor. That fitting there looks good, as well. We used the soapy water solution and check all of our air connection points for leaks. Now that we've checked to make sure that there's no air leaks, that will do it for our installation of the Firestone Level Command II Standard Duty Compressor with a Single-Gauge, Part number F2158, on our 2012 Ford F250. .


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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video by:
Andrew K
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
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Kathleen M
Installed by:
Cole B
Test Fit:
Shane T
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Jared G
Test Fit:
Brent H
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Jonathan Y
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Robert C

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