Firestone Level Command Compressor Installation - 2013 Ford F-250

content loading



Customers compare F2097 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Firestone Level Command Compressor on a 2013 Ford F-250


Today on our 2013 Ford Super Duty we'll be installing the Firestone Level Command Single Gauge Heavy Duty Compressor, Part #F2097. We'll be adding this to the already previously installed Firestone Ride-Rite Air Helper Springs, Part #F2535. Let's try the operation of our Firestone air command. From the cab of our vehicle, we've turned on our lights and the gauge is lit up. Then move the switch into the up position and you'll see we'll build pressure in the new system and airbags. Once we've finished hauling our load, we can simply push down on the switch to relieve the pressure inside the system. To begin our install, we'll first need to mount the compressor. For this application, we'll be on the inside of the frame between the fuel tank and the transfer case. We'll simply take the manufacturers wiring, remove the fastener that goes into the bottom of the frame, push it up and re-secure it with some zip ties.

With the manufacturers wiring out of the way, it will expose the inside of the frame where we can set the compressor into place. Using a drill bit that'll go through the attachment points, we'll go ahead and mark the frame where it will need to be drilled out. Once we have the four attachment points marked out, we'll go ahead and remove the compressor and then use this pilot bit to drill out the hole. Once we have our four holes completely drilled out, we'll then go ahead a put our compressor back into position and secure it with the bolt and flat washer going through the attachment point through the frame. On the other side of the frame, we'll install a second flat washer and then the nylon lock nut. Once we have all four fasteners installed finger tight, we'll go ahead and run them down. With the compressor secured, we'll go ahead and install the inlet fitting.

To do that, we'll remove the plug and then install the fitting directly into the compressor. Next we'll install the check valve into the top of the compressor. We'll remove the plug, then thread in the check valve and tighten it down. The threads have sealant on them, make sure we thread it in far enough and get it tightened down enough so this thread sealant will work in between the threads. With the compressor installed, we can go ahead and install and secure the ground. We'll take the black wire with the pre-installed ring terminal and secure it directly to the frame. Go ahead and find a location here next to the compressor and then pre-drill the hole.

Once we have the hole pre-drilled, we'll go ahead and install a bolt and flat washer through the ring terminal, then through the frame, securing it on the side with a flat washer and nylon lock nut. We can then go ahead and tighten it down. Next we'll move to the airbag lines. With this application it has two lines running one for the driver and one for the passenger side. We're going to remove one of the manual valves and make it a one manual valve set up so that both sides will be aired up equally. To do that, we'll first remove one of the manual valves by cutting the line. Using the Firestone Tubing Cutter, Part #F9009.

Cut the line and remove it completely. Once we do that, we can then go ahead and cut the main line, install our T, and reinstall the passenger side line. Now we have both lines running off one manual valve, we'll install a second T. We'll go ahead and cut the main line, install the second T, then take the air line provided with the compressor install kit, put in the other side of the T and start running it to the front of the vehicle. For some applications, it can be easier to route from the front of the vehicle, back, which we'll do in this case. We're going to run it on the inside of the frame channel, following the manufacturers wiring. Once we get it to the back, we'll go ahead and install it into the T and then secure our lines as necessary with some zip ties. Next we'll take the air line and run it into the cabin of the vehicle. We run it into the cabin of the vehicles because we'll need to hook it up to our switch and gauge. Using the manufacturers grommet, we'll go ahead and use a utility knife to cut a small hole and then take the air line and push it into the cabin of the vehicle. When we go to mount the gauge it will be sitting here at the bottom of the dash near the console. I'll run my line over to it and then go ahead and cut the length. Then I'll take some blue tape and put it on the line just to note the difference between the airbag line and the next line that we're going to run which will be the compressor line. We'll take the remaining portion of our line and run it to the compressor. We'll add our straight line fitting to accommodate it. Connect the compressor line into it. Run the compressor line into the cab of the vehicle. Now we have both the compressor and airbag line run, we'll need to run one more. This will be for the air filter. The air filter will go to the air inlet. Provided with our install kit is a black line, however, for this application the black line isn't quite long enough to do this. We're going to use some additional tubing. We can use the Firestone 1/4 inch air line tubing, Part #F0937. To install the air line onto the barbed fitting for the air inlet. We're going to go ahead and take some hot water and put the line into the water. We'll soak it for three to five minutes which will help make the line more pliable as we push it over the barbed fitting. After soaking the line that's made pliable, we'll connect the tubing to the barbed fitting. Once it's completely onto the barbed fitting, we can then go ahead and route it into the cabin of the vehicle. We'll go ahead and take the wiring harness and start underneath the vehicle. We'll take the orange wire that comes from the relay junction as a matching terminal to the red wire for our compressor. We'll go ahead and mount the orange wire down the frame and install it into the connection point. We'll then go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape to help keep it free from dirt, dust, debris and moisture. We'll use this zip tie to bundle our wires together. We'll run the harness toward the front of the vehicle. Next we'll take the white wire and route it into the cabin of the vehicle following our previously installed air lines. Next we'll go ahead and mount the relay assembly. We'll mount it inside the frame channel and we can simply secure it to the manufacturers harness with a zip tie. Next we'll use some blue tubing as a pull wire or you can use a stiff piece of wire. We push the blue tube down from the engine, we'll connect our red wire to it and use it to pull up through the engine compartment and ultimately to the battery. Once again we'll use the hot water to help soften the lines as we install them. Install our line on to the filter and route it up under the dash. Next we'll mount the gauge assembly. We'll go ahead and mark it with our paint marker where the dash ends and where we have the end attachment point. Then we can pre-drill it, use a fastener to go up through the gauge housing where we'll pre-drill a second hole into the bottom of the dash metal. We'll go ahead and install the airbag line into the red line here to our gauge. The compressor line will go on the switch side. Run the bolt through the gauge housing, into the dash and secure it with a nut. On the left side we can then use a self tapping screw to go directly through the pre-drilled hole or slot into the metal trim. With our gauge housing secured, we can go ahead and start wiring up our gauge. There are two black wires and two white wires. One white wire and one black wire will be power and one black wire and one white wire will be ground. These are interchangeable. One of each for power and one of each for ground. The white wire we ran from the wiring harness is much longer than we need. To trim that wire along with the white wire we're going to run from our gauge assembly, we'll go ahead and we'll cut it to length, strip back both ends and use a butt connector to secure the two. We'll take the black wire that's going to be our power wire, strip it back and add a butt connector to it. We'll then take the leftover length of wire that we just removed from the wiring harness and add it to the other side of the butt connector creating a longer wire. Now our other white and black wire, we'll go ahead and cut to the same length, strip them back. We'll twist them together and add them to one butt connector. The other end of our butt connector, we can take some of the white wire from our wiring harness that we trimmed earlier and add it to the other end. With all our connections made, we'll go ahead and wrap up the butt connectors with some black electrical tape to help keep them free from dirt, dust, debris and moisture. We'll then go ahead and run it to the fire wall and cut to length. We'll strip it back and add a ring terminal. We can then take that ring terminal and a self tapping screw and attach it to the firewall to create the ground for our gauge assembly. Next we'll take the power wire for the gauge light assembly and route it across the bottom of the dash. We'll then remove the side of the dash panel where we gain access to the headlight switch wiring. For this application, we'll test the purple wire that runs to the headlight switch. Using our test light, we'll go ahead and see if this wire is hot when the parking lights are active. It is, it'll be a perfect wire to tap our gauge assembly light into. Take the white wire, cut it to length, slide it into the quick connector, grip it down and close the clasp and then reinstall the panel. Now we'll move into the engine compartment. We'll take the power wire and route it over to the battery where we can add a ring terminal to the end and then the ring terminal to the positive battery post. This application the positive battery post stud is not meant to be completely removed, so we'll go ahead and back it off, cut a small opening in the ring terminal, slide it over the stud and then re-secure the nut. We'll go ahead and secure our wiring and bundle up any excess wiring and tuck it inside the driver side fender well. Next we'll go ahead and air up the system and then check for leaks. We'll use a soap and water solution to spray each one of our connection points. Once we verified that we don't have any leaks, we're ready to hit the road. That does it for the install of the Firestone Level Command Heavy Duty Compressor System, Part #F2097 in conjunction with the Firestone Ride-Rite Air Helper Springs that we're previously installed, Part #F2535 for our 2013 Ford Super Duty. .


Questions and Comments about this Video

add comment

Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Shane T
Test Fit:
Randy B
Test Fit:
Robert C
Test Fit:
David F
Video by:
Andrew K
Video by:
Kathleen M
Video by:
Zach D
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Video Edited:
Mike H
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Video Edited:
Chris R

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.