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Fastway e2 Weight Distribution Installation - 2018 Heartland RV Pioneer TT Toy Hauler

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How to Install the Fastway e2 Weight Distribution on a 2018 Heartland RV Pioneer TT Toy Hauler


Randy: Hey guys, it's Randy here at etrailer.com. Today we're going to do an installation for you on the Pioneer RG22 Camper. We're setting it up with the Fastway e2 Weight Distribution and Sway Control Setup. Now this one happens to be the 1,200 pound, 12,000 pound gross trailer weight setup. This one is a toy hauler, so it needs a little bit of extra weight distribution effect on the front to try to get everything balanced out properly.This gives us all of the weight distribution properties through a trunnion bar. I like trunnion bars a lot more than I do round bars because those tend to hang down kind of a lot lower and reduce ground clearance.

But it also has a built in friction sway control right here on each side. We've got friction material here built on right to the bottom of the bar and on top of the bracket, and as those move against each other in a sway event, it really helps to hold everything back in place.Basically when we hook up a camper, which you'll see when we do our measurements, the back end of our truck goes down. The front end of our camper goes down. That's less than ideal. We're putting excess strain on that rear suspension component.

Generally the front end of the truck rises a little bit. That gives us a lot of negative handling and braking effects, changes our suspension geometry so we get weird tire wear, and we're also going to have our headlights tilted up slightly.On the trailer side, is that front end comes down. In a tandem setup, you're putting more weight on the front axle, it's going to wear out more quickly in the tire and in the suspension area than what the rear axle will.So when we set up a weight distribution system like this, we're basically creating a connection point from our trailer up to our hitch. If you think about it like a wheelbarrow, that's essentially how it's going to work out. We lift our truck and trailer up so we can get our bar set, and then when we lower it back down, instead of letting the back of the truck tilt down, it holds it up.

It's going to hold it to where it's right back to that factory height. By doing that it pushes those front wheels back down, so we return all those handling and safety characteristics that we need.By combining that with sway control, it keeps everything tracking down the road smoothly. So if we have a crosswind, we don't have to worry about our trailer getting out of control and winding up in the median rolled over. If a tractor trailer passes us or if we pass a tractor trailer, that sudden gust isn't going to cause us any issues. A lot of times on an improperly loaded trailer, even taking your foot off the gas as you crest a hill can cause sway to start.

So it's an excellent idea not only to load your trailer properly, to have proper tongue weight on it, but to incorporate sway control so you don't have any of those issues.Now this sway control system, in my mind, is one of the better ones out there. I like the way the trunnion bar slides on the bracket. It eliminates a lot of setup hassle, like trying to get cam levers on, you almost need two hands in here with the train. That's like the Curt TruTrack system. I like the way this one works a lot, especially when we compare this to a standard friction bar setup. A friction bar you have to put it on each time you want to leave, after you have everything hooked up, and then any time you want to back up, you have to take it back off. That friction bar gives you about 40 pounds worth of sway control effort, whereas with this e2 system, we're looking at closer to 400 pounds. So we're getting almost 10 times the effect out of this system than we would out of a sway control friction bar.Now I really liked the overall construction of this system too. I think it's going to be something that lasts for a good, long time. All the powder coat on it looks really nice. All of our hardware's going to be nickel-coated. Our spacers inaudible 00:03:46, once we have everything set it's pretty straightforward. There's not a lot of adjustments to make. You might have to change slightly the amount of washers if you switch from trailer to trailer, but overall it's going to work out really well. You can see our trunnion ends here, the trunnion bars are really nice. Overall I think this is going to stay looking good for a very long time.As far as service and maintenance goes, there's really not a whole lot to it. The biggest part is going to be right here at our trunnions, where they go into the head. By putting a little bit of grease in here and also on the top, you're just really going to help reduce any noise that you might have while the system's in operation. And we also have our keepers here; it's a good idea to keep those lubricated so they move freely for you.Now while everything does look pretty normal here with the truck, these Ram 2500s really have a pretty good pitch up to the back of them when they're unloaded. And right now we're running pretty level. So what we're going to do is measure off the rear wheel here just to see what kind of difference that we have before and after that pin weight goes on, and we can go from there.See currently we're at about 41" here in the back. We're going to go up in the front, we'll measure the same thing there. Here we're at about 40-3/4. Here with our trailer unhooked or disconnected, look how much higher the back of that truck's sitting. That's where we want to get it back to, that's where it wants to be from the factory. So using that weight distribution setup, we should be able to return this right back to where it started. Just to give us an idea, we we're at 41. We're now at 43-1/4. So 2-1/4" higher here in the back. Our front was at 40-3/4. You can see now it's back closer right down to 40. So, half inch doesn't seem like a whole lot, but there's a lot of weight being put back down on that front end in that half inch.We've got everything kind of set up. We've got our camper nice and level. That's important. Then we measure our coupler height. Basically that's going to be right to the top of the coupler here. We're going to use our shank. Now, this isn't a shank that's going to come with the kit. Since this truck is quite a bit higher than most common vehicles, we've had to use a drop shank.So we've got the head installed here, and you can see we have added our 2-5/16" ball. You'll need to pick up a ball with an 1-1/4" shank, and we want this to be appropriate for your trailer. So if you're going to be using a 2" coupler on your trailer, this should be 2"; 2-5/16, you'll want 2-5/16. Now we've got plenty of these available on our website. This one happens to be the Equalizer brand. I like this one over the other brands when using this style of setup because the shank's the appropriate length. You can see we can get our large nut put on there, we can crush our washer, so we don't have a lot of overhang down through there. So that's something I like there.Now, when setting the height of our ball, we need that to match our coupler as closely as possible. So these holes are an 1-1/4" adjustable so we'll want to get it as close as we can to that. And you'll line up the holes in the shank. Once we have it where we want it, we're going to put one of the conical tooth washers on our bolt, and I'm just going to loosely slide this in for now. And we also need to insert our rivet here, with our washers on. Now depending on your application, for longer wheelbase trucks you're going to use six probably, you might add one more in there if need be. On shorter wheelbase vehicles, you're going to use five to start, you might need to add one in.You can see right down here on the backside, there's an open hole, so we'll take that, we're going to get that slid down and in. Then we'll capture it so it won't come out. Slide our bolt through, take my bottom bolt, which I had in, out, put a washer on that. Slide it through, place our washers on the other side and we'll just get our nuts started.All right, with that in position, our bolts loosely secure for now. We've got our bolt right here. Now this is going to cause our head to come up, and it's going to pinch that washer and rivet set up against the shank. So we want to tighten it until it makes contact. All right, that's made contact, so now what we need to do is go one half-turn from there. So I'm going to go a quarter, and another quarter. So we've got that set into place now, we've got our angle set on our ball. You can see there's a slight downward tilt to that, which is what we're looking for.Now let's turn to the tongue of the trailer, and get our work done there. On the trailer side, you can see we've placed a mark right in the center of our coupler. Now I need to mark from there back 30". That's going to be the center for our side bracket. We'll do that on both sides of our trailer.All right, just going to create a square line there. Now if 30" won't work . 30" is recommended, that's going to be the center of our bracket, so we'll have a little overhang this side, a little overhang this side. You can bring this in as much to 27 on center, you don't want to go any shorter than that though, so definitely keep that in mind. So this should be where it's going to work the best, somewhere between 30" on center which is ideal, as little as 27" on center, but the closer to 30 we get, the better.Now for our clamps you can see we've taken one of our longer bolts there. We've got a lock washer and a nut on it. We're going to place that down over, and we want our bolt to be dead center on our mark there, and then if we look, we should be able to see our line coming right through the center of each of our holes there. Place our other bolt in here on the bottom, and of course you're going to want to use the hole that most closely matches your fame. So, if your frame's a little bit narrower this way than what ours is, you'll use one of the holes above it. Now I'll just snug those down by hand, ensuring that our line's going right through the middle of our holes there, and we can do the same thing on the other side.Now as we keep our brackets in place, we don't want these to move around at all, we need to tighten down our bolts here. These use a 19 millimeter or 3/4". We want to tighten them down evenly, from the top to the bottom. It's best to use a wrench on the backside, because if you start turning this bolt, it wants to move our bracket a little bit. So we'll use our wrench to tighten the nut first, and then once we have them down there pretty snug, we can use our torque wrench to get that final torque measurement. That'll be found in your instructions.Now we'll get our L-brackets put in place. They're going to slide right on the two welded-on bolts there. For our initial setup we're going to use the middle two holes. We'll leave these two open, and these two open. We may need to adjust it slightly later, just going to take our nylon lock nuts, going to thread those on, and snug them down. Those'll also use a 19. All right, we'll do that on both sides.Now, that's our side bracket setup. That's what we need to do on our trailer. Of course, we'll need to torque everything down once we have all of our setup done. But the only kind of real difference to that is going to be in a coupler style. This is a top mount coupler, you can see it's mounted to the top of the frame. If you have one of the trailers that has a bottom-mount coupler, instead of us mounting these frame brackets so that these bolts we're closer to the top, those frame brackets would be flipped over. By flipping those over, we'll have that single hole at the bottom. We'll have our multiple holes up here at the top, and that's going to position these down lower, so when we install our L-bracket, we'd install it the same way using those center holes. It would just be lower to accommodate for that coupler.All right, now as we move onto this step in our setup, it's going to be getting everything kind of fine-tuned. We'll want to use the table that we have here in the instructions, so the tow vehicle loaded for trip but still uncouple from trailer, the distance from the ground, the inside of that fender well, which we saw earlier, was 40". Once we coupled the trailer, without weight distribution, it came up to 40-3/4. What we're looking to get back to is the halfway point between those two, so that's going to be 40-3/8". So that 40-3/8 is our target. That's the intended point we want to get back to, so we'll set it up and see how that goes.All right, now to get our trunnion bars in place, you can see the little keeper tab right here. We're going to slide that up, place the bottom end, rotate the top end, and then let that come back in behind it. And then at that point, we're going to bring our trailer, get it coupled to the truck here, and we'll start making any adjustments we might need.All right, now we'll extend the jack. This is going to lift both the trailer and the truck up slightly. You can see as we do that, see how our trunnion bars are getting closer to our brackets there This makes it a lot easier to get these things connected. And we'll use our tool there, just going to get our trunnion bars up into place, take our keys, we'll slide those down in, and then use our provided clips to keep them in place. We'll do that on the other side as well.All right, now we've relaxed everything. We've allowed with our weight distribution bars locked in place, we've taken all the weight you can see off of that trailer jack. Now we need to go check our measurements again. Front wheel first, we're looking to be at most 40-3/8". If we're not there, we need to add more washers in. If we're anywhere below 40, which is exactly where we started, and that would be ideal, well then we need to take some washers out. But as long as we're between 40 and 40-3/8, it's going to be exactly what we want.All right, now once we've confirmed we've got everything where we want it, we want to come back and torque down our L-brackets here. That will be listed in your instruction, the torque you want to hit, and also get the main 3/4" bolts on our head torqued.All right guys, now back up here at the front, you can see we are right at 40". That's absolutely perfect. Anytime you're able to use a system and get right back to that measurement, that's ideal, but like we said, we had 3/8" to play with, but I'm happy it's right where it's at. Now in this particular setup with a Ram 2500, I think this is a 2018 model, we used the 1,200 pound kit, 1,200 pound arms, and we used seven washers in there. So if you are going to be doing it on a 3/4 ton, if it's pretty close to that, it's going to give you a good starting point.Here at the back, we're looking at about 42-3/4, so we're within about 3/4 of an inch of where we wanted that to be. We're putting less pressure on this rear end, it's going to save a lot of life in these rear suspension components.With that being said, I know it's a lot of information. But in my opinion, and a lot of our customers' opinion, this is an excellent way to go. Get the weight limit, or the weigh setting that's appropriate for your application. I think you'll be very happy with it.


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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Dustin K
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Installed by:
Hayden R
Video by:
Zach D

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