Fastway e2 Weight Distribution System Installation - 2010 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Fastway e2 Weight Distribution System on a 2010 Ford F-150


Speaker 1: Today on our 2010 Ford F150 we're gonna be installing and reviewing the Fastway E2 weight distribution system. This comes in a 6,000 pound weight capacity, an 8,000 pound weight capacity, and a 10,000 pound weight capacity. This is gonna be the solution to your swaying trailer and sagging vehicle suspension. If you're frequently towing a trailer or camper, especially when it's a larger load you've got sway issues or you get fatigue from keeping that thing on the road, make it more safe for you to drive down the road, it'll improve your braking, steering, all around it's gonna make it a safer more easy ride.This system evenly distributes the weight between your front and rear axles. It takes some of that load off the rear, uses your trailer weight to lift it and push it onto your front axle. This is gonna make your vehicle ride more level and improve its stopping distance.

It's also gonna help center line the trailer behind it because it's gonna keep them in line and more level. A weight distribution system also can maximize your towing capacity. If you check the specifications on your hitch typically when using a weight distribution system the tongue weight and the gross trailer weight ratings are going to increase.There's friction material located on the bottom of the sway arm. This is gonna prevent sway and make the trailer track behind the vehicle more closely. This'll increase the handling while hauling your trailer and reduce fatigue when going down the road.

The shank included with this system can be used as a rise or a drop so that way you'll be level with the trailer you're hauling behind you. To orient it in the rise position you just face it up and for the drop position you would just pull it out, flip it over, and have it angled down.The round bars make it a little bit easier to install and remove. They pivot nicely in the hitch head, they have a release tab here where you can simply pull out, just drop the bar down, and when you put it in you can see it click into place. This system has sway control built in unlike some of the chain styles that don't have sway control built in and require additional components, you've got everything you need here. This system also allows you to back up without disconnecting your hitch or system.This system is capable of working with airbag suspension, just make sure that you've got your airbag suspension aired up to the appropriate level before you make your weight distribution adjustments.

Inflating the system afterwards may cause the weight distribution system to not operate as intended. It comes with an included tool to help you get your sway arms up on your brackets. Simply hook the arm underneath the sway control arm, put the hook on the end into the square hole, and just pull up and pry it on. Now you can put your clip and pin in and you're ready to hit the road. It's made of a thick, solid steel construction and has a black powder coat finish so it's rust resistant.Before we start our installation we're gonna need to take note of a few measurements.

We'll start with our truck unloaded and our trailer disconnected. Now you do want to make sure you're parked on level ground when taking these measurements. When measuring the height of your vehicle you want to go from the center of the wheel from the ground to the top of the fender well, it looks like we're measuring 39 inches. We'll repeat the same measurement in the front and take note of that measurement, in the front we're measuring 37 and a quarter inches. Now we've got our camper hooked up to our truck and we're under a load we're gonna take our measurement again. It's gonna be about 36 and a half inches. Our front is measuring 37 and a half inches.As you can see with our vehicle loaded up we raise up a half inch in the front and our rear drops down two and a half inches. With the front lifted up and the rear sagging down that's gonna compromise our braking, steering, and suspension. Since 70% of the braking is done with the front brakes and you've lifted that weight up it's gonna make a drastic effect. If we get this leveled out we're gonna get that factory feel back.Now that we've taken all of our truck measurements we need to take some measurements from our trailer. Our trailer needs to be level beforehand so if you've got a magnetic level go ahead and stick that to the side of your trailer and adjust your jack until it's level. Now that our trailer is level we're gonna take a measurement from the ground to the inside top of our hitch coupler, we're looking to be at about 26 inches.A ball's not included with the weight distribution system but you can pick one up at etrailer.com such as this one here with part number 63840. This is a two and 5-16ths inch hitch ball with a one and a quarter inch diameter long shank. When installing your hitch ball there's gonna be some tight clearances so having a short one and 7-8ths inch socket will make the job much easier and allow you to get that proper torque. You can pick one of these up at etrailer.com with part number ALL643216.You remove your old hitch mount, set it aside, and install the new mount with your kit inside your receiver. Slide your pin through and put the clip in. Now we need to prepare our hitch head to be installed. Go ahead and take your ball, slide it on, put the lock washer underneath, and then just hand tighten the nut for now. Then take the two large bolts with the smoothed edge, remove the lock washers, and slide on the conical toothed washer with the teeth facing towards the threads. Now we're gonna insert our spacer pin, we need to put washers on it depending on the wheel base of our vehicle. For this vehicle we're gonna be using six washers. Then slide it in the open hole there.Now you want to line it up, it's best to start at the top holes. Take a quick measurement and see where you're at, we're only measuring about 25 inches here and we want to match the height that we measured on our trailer which was 26 inches. We're gonna have to flip this over instead of being in the drop position and place it in the raise position. Now that you've got it in the raised position you can hold it in place, take a quick measurement, and find the appropriate holes, looks like ours is gonna be the third one down, that'll apply only to this specific vehicle and trailer set up. Now slide your bolts through that we prepared in the previous step, conical toothed washers again with the teeth facing inward, slide them on, and then put our lock nuts back on. Now tighten down your adjustment bolt until your spacer comes into contact with your shank. You can tighten this with a 24 millimeter socket. There you can see we've made contact. Now that we've made solid contact you'll want to tighten it an additional half turn.Now we can tighten down our hitch ball. You can do this in a vice or while it's in the hitch. If you've got a vice it's the easier way to do. We'll use the inch and 7-8ths socket, torque it to the specifications in your instructions. Now this is an extremely high torque so if you don't have the tools or capabilities you can go to your nearest dealer and they can torque it for you.We're now gonna make a measurement for the location of our sway bracket. Starting at the center of the coupler measure back between 24 and 27 inches and let's see what kind of clearance you have. You may or may not have to move your propane tanks or any other accessories out of the way if you can't get within this margin. We're gonna be making our mark here at 27 inches because 24 will put us too close to our propane tanks. Make the same mark on the other side.Now you need to identify if you have a top or bottom mount coupler, as you can see here ours is a top mount. Now because ours is a top mount we're gonna be placing our single hole with the two studs towards the top side of the frame. If we had a bottom mount we'd be doing just the opposite. Just go ahead and put your studs facing outward, take your similar bracket with no studs, and place it on the backside. Slide the single hole over your bolt, place a lock washer on the end, put the nut on the backside, and then tighten down the nut. Then position your other bolt in the closest hole you can on the bottom side of the frame and repeat the same step on the other side. Now you can go ahead and tighten them down and torque it to the specifications in your instructions. Do that for the remaining bolts on this side and the other side.Now position your L bracket on your studs leaving two open holes at the top and hand-tighten your nuts. We're not gonna torque it down until a later step. Repeat this on the other side. Now we're gonna install our spring arms, before you put them in you want to take a little bit of wheel bearing grease and put that around the round end with the notch in it. Since this end is gonna turn and pivot a little bit of grease will help the life extend quite a bit. After you grease the end push it up into the bottom of the hitch head until it clicks into place. You can let go of it then it'll hang in place, if you need to take it out you can pull out on the tab and it'll drop down. Now click the other side in after you've greased it. Now go ahead and tighten up the bolt and nut on your hitch head. You're gonna use a one and an eighth inch for the head of the bolt and a one and a 16th inch for the nut.Now with all of our hardware snugged up we can back our truck up, couple it to the hitch, and begin adjusting our weight distribution system. Go ahead and lock your ball into place and then use your jack to raise the vehicle up to make it easier to get your arms in. Now if you've got your vehicle lifted all the way up with you jack, plenty of pressure pulling that weight off your vehicle and trailer, and you still can't get your arms lifted up over the L bracket you can try using the tool provided in the kit but as you can see here we're still so far away we can't even use the tool to get it up there so at this point we'll need to adjust our L brackets down to get the sway arms on.Now if you're still unable to get your bars even after adjusting the L brackets all the way down you may need to remove some washers. These washers are your fine adjustment so once you get it set up and you have your trailer with it loaded and the arms attached you'll use this to make small height adjustments. Since we need to make quite a bit of adjustment on ours we're gonna be taking off three washers. The more washers you take off the more adjustment you'll be making. Now that we've made our adjustments slide your sway arm in place, lower the L shaped hold down pin over it and put the cotter pin in it. Now do that on the other side.With both our sway arms in place go ahead and raise up your jack and then retake your measurements and see where you're at. Now to make sure we've got the proper adjustment you want to take a look at the level on your trailer again, if you come in close here you can see that we're level, now we can recheck our measurements. From the center of our front rear at the rear here we're measuring 37 inches, now if you remember at the beginning we we're measuring 39 unloaded and 36 and a half loaded so we've come up in the rear by a half inch. Now let's go check our front, we're measuring 37 and three-eights so before unloaded we we're measuring 37 and a quarter and loaded we we're measuring 37 and a half so our front axle is now right between those two measurements and that's how you know when you've got it adjusted properly.Now that we verified all of our adjustment's are correct we can go back and torque all of our remaining bolts to specification. We still need to torque these bolts and refer to your instructions for the proper torque. Then torque the other two on the other side. Now we're gonna torque down the bolts on our shank, when you torque these down you need to make sure that you've got all the weight of your trailer lifted up and that it's uncoupled and then torque them per the specifications in your instructions.That completes our installation of the Fastway E2 weight distribution system on our 2010 Ford F150.


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Info for these parts were:

Installed by:
Cole B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Robert C
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Installed by:
Joe V
Video by:
Andrew K
Video Edited:
Patrick B
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Test Fit:
Brent H

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