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etrailer Class III Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 Honda CR-V

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How to Install the etrailer Class III Trailer Hitch on a 2020 Honda CR-V


Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today we have a 2020 Honda CR-V, and we're gonna be showing you how to install the etrailer.com Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver. But before we do that, why don't we check the hitch out and make sure it's something that's gonna work for you So right off the bat, kind of one of the big questions we get asked a lot is, if your vehicle has the automatic lift gate assist feature, if the hitch is gonna interfere with it And the answer is no. Now today, unfortunately our model of CRV does not come equipped with that feature, but we have had them in the past and they do work. Really the only thing you're gonna have to do is move your foot to either side of the hitch and it'll open up like it should. So I see these CRVs out on the road, doing a little bit of everything.

And it makes sense you know, they're super capable and really popular. And so if it we're me, I would want a hitch that, you know, not only looks good, but it would be able to handle just about anything that you wanna throw at it. And this etrailer hitch is going to do just that. So one thing I do really like about this setup is the fact that it's gonna be completely hidden for the most part, you know. Really the only thing you're gonna be able to see is the receiver tube opening here.

And since it has this carbide matte black finish it does a good job of blending in. It almost looks like a factory option if you ask me. It's also gonna sit up nice and tight against the bottom of our bumper. So that'll give us some good ground clearance, and it's also gonna give us a great bumper clearance. So what I mean by that is the end of the receiver tube opening here is gonna be pretty much flush with the back of our bumper.

That way we're not gonna have to worry at all about any folding accessories. Whenever you have those bike racks or cargo carriers in here, and you want to fold them up into that upright position, we're not gonna have to worry about them hitting the back of our Honda. So with this being a Class III hitch, it's gonna have that two-inch by two-inch receiver tube opening. That is a really common size and a ton of different accessories will work with it. It's going to have a reinforced collar for extra strength, and I think it looks pretty good too.

The pin hole is going be that standard 5/8 in diameter. Now keep in mind a pin and clip does not come included, but if you need one, you can grab it here at etrailer. It's gonna have loop-style safety chain openings which are nice and thick and are relatively large. That way we should be able to use pretty much any size hook that we might have. This hitch is gonna give us some really good weight capacities. the maximum gross tongue weight rating is gonna be 525 pounds. That's gonna be the amount of weight that's pushing down on the hitch. And that's a pretty high number, so you should be able to use pretty much any size bike rack or cargo carrier that you'd want to, for example. As far as the maximum gross trailer weight rating goes, that's gonna be 3,500 pounds. And that's gonna be the amount of weight that is pulling on the hitch. So that is the weight of your trailer plus anything that you might have on it. I do always like to suggest though, never a bad idea just to grab your Honda's owner's manual. That way you can check and make sure your CRV can pull that much weight safely. And if you do plan on doing some towing, probably a good idea to pick up some trailer wiring. That way the lights on your trailer will match up with the lights on the back of your Honda, and you'll be safe and illegal. Now we can go ahead and take a couple measurements to help find out what accessories will work best with your CRV. You go from the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening. That's gonna be right at 14-1/2 inches. So if you do plan on doing some towing, chances are pretty good you're gonna need to get a ball mount with a slight rise. If you go from the center of the hitch pin hole to the very edge of our rear bumper, it looks like it's gonna be right at about 2-1/2 inches. They kind of talked about this earlier. You can use that to figure out that any folding accessories you might have can be stored in that upright position without having to worry about them contacting the back of your CRV. So at the end of the day, a hitch you really can't go wrong with, you know. Not only does it kind of have that factory-type appearance, but with those weight capacities and the size of it, it's gonna be able to get the job done pretty much regardless on what you're doing. Now, as far as the installation goes, really not too bad, actually. You don't have to enlarge any holes or nothing like that. You will have to cut out a small piece of your fascia here just to give the hitch enough room to clear it. But other than that, everything's pretty straight forward, so really shouldn't give you a whole lot of issues. Speaking of that installation, let's go ahead, pull into the shop and put it on together now. To begin our installation we're gonna be here underneath the bottom of our CRV. And first thing we need to do is lower our exhaust a little bit to give us some extra space to work. Before we do that, what I like to do is take a strap and just run it from side to side. That way we can kind of control how fast and how far we let our exhaust come down. And if you don't have a strap like this laying around the house, you can always grab one right here at etrailer. So to get our exhaust lowered, we're gonna have three exhaust hangers, one on each side of our vehicle, just like this, above our muffler. And one more towards the center, which we'll get to in a moment. But to get these lowered what you want to do is spray them down with some soapy water or some penetrating oil, which I've done. And then you can just take a pry bar and kind of work the rubber portion of the hanger off of those metal hooks. Just like that. I'll go ahead and do the same thing to the one on the muffler on the other side. And if you move towards the front of our vehicle, here's that third exhaust hanger. Again, we're just gonna take a pry bar and get it removed. Now that we have those hangers removed, we can go ahead and loosen up our strap and let our exhaust down a little ways. Now, if you look here on the bottom edge of our lower fascia, we're gonna have a couple of fasteners that we need to remove. On our case we just have two plastic push pins, one on each corner. On some models there may be three more. And if that's your case, you'll have to pull those out as well. But the way to get these out, you can just take a Flathead screwdriver, gonna pry underneath the head of it and work the whole fastener out. At this point, what we can do is get our hardware installed in our frame rails. And what we're gonna do is take the coiled end of our fish wire, place it through this hole here, and just right out of this larger hole, right in front of it. You can kind of reach up there and pull that wire down. Sometimes it helps to put a little bend in that wire just to help direct it out. But once you pull it out, you're going to take the spacer block, put that over the coiled end, as well as the carriage bolt. And so that carriage bolt is gonna thread onto the pull wire. And then you can simply feed the hardware up into the frame rail. And pull it down till it drops out, like so. We're gonna have another attachment point. We're gonna be using that hole right there. We're gonna take our pull wire. Keep the coil running through it, and out of the larger hole behind it. Take that same hardware combination, spacer block, and the carriage bolt, and thread that on. Feed our hardware up till it drops out. I'm gonna repeat the same process on the other side of our vehicle 'cause it's set up the exact same way. At this point, what we need to do is trim out a small opening on the bottom portion of our fascia here. There's a diagram and instructions, and I went ahead and followed that and marked out where we need to cut. Whenever you're doing this, make sure that you have nothing of importance behind there. That way you don't damage something. And with that being said, this is relatively thin plastic. I'm just gonna use a pair of 10 snips and probably a sharp utility knife to get this cut out. But you could use a pair of regular snips or terminal tools, something like that, kind of whatever you think is gonna work best for you. So I'll go ahead, follow my lines and get this trimmed out. And if you want to, you can come back with a hand file or something like that, and kind of smooth out any of those rough edges. Now with an extra set of hands, we can take our hitch and lift it into position. You wanna make sure that the pull wires go through the corresponding holes, you'll go up and over your exhausts. You may have to kind of pull your fascia back a little bit, kind of sneak the hitch in there behind it. It might be a little bit tight, that's all right, working it up. What we're trying to do is get our hardware to drop down through the hitch. Once we have it dropped down, you can remove that pull wire, take a flange nut, and you wanna get at least one on each side, started hand tight that way the hitch will support itself while we work on the rest of the hardware. We are gonna have a little bit more hardware to get installed, and we're gonna be putting this large carriage bolt in through this side of our hitch, which will pass through our tow hook. And we can go on the other side and get the rest of it installed as well. This side, you're gonna have a spacer block you're gonna place over that carriage bolt. And you're gonna follow that up with a flange nut. Now that all of our hardware is in place and hand tight, you can come back with an 11/16 socket and tighten down the hardware here in our frame rails. And for the bolt here in the center, we're gonna use a 3/4 inch socket to tighten it down. At this point, we can come back with a torque wrench and tighten down all of our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions. Now we can get our exhaust rehung. I like start with this one here, closest towards the front. Again, you can spray them down a little bit so you can make it easier. This time we're just gonna line everything up by hand and re-install those hangers. With the exhaust supported now, we can go ahead and remove our strap. And last but not least, don't forget to re-install those two push pin fasteners here. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the etrailer.com Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2020 Honda CR-V..


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