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etrailer Class III Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Honda CR-V

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How to Install the etrailer Class III Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Honda CR-V

Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today, on our 2017 Honda CR-V, we're gonna be showing you how to install the Class III trailer hitch receiver. But before we do that, why don't we check it out, and make sure that this is the right hitch for you. So, right off the bat, I do wanna address one of the main questions that we get asked in regards to putting a hitch on the CR-V. And that is, you know, is the hitch going to interfere with the hands-free liftgate assist And the answer is no. Now, today, unfortunately, our model don't have that feature, so I can't actually show you.

But I do know from past experience and other CR-Vs that have been in the shop here, whenever you put the hitch on, the liftgate is still going to work properly. Really, the only thing that you're gonna have to do differently is kick your foot to either side of the hitch and everything will operate as it should. So, when it comes to the Honda CR-V, you know, these things are really popular SUVs, and I can definitely understand why. You know, they're really capable and really good vehicles. But with that said, you know, people use them to do a lot of different things.

Whether it be using an accessory or even pulling a trailer down the road. So, if it we're me and, you know, I was looking for a hitch for my Honda, I think two things had really stick out to me. You know, I'd want it to be able to handle just about anything I wanna throw at it. And I'd also want it to look good. And I feel like the etrailer hitch here kinda checks both those boxes.

So, as far as the way the hitch is gonna look, I think it looks really good, actually. It's probably my favorite one available for the CR-V. And I say that because it's gonna be pretty much completely hidden, for the most part. You know, really the only thing you're gonna be able to see is the receiver tube opening here. And one of the things I'm a fan of is the finish of it.

It's got this carbide matte black finish. It's really tough and, you know, it just kinda blends in. It kinda looks like a factory option, if you will. With that said, it's also gonna give us some really good clearance, and that's something that's important, you know. Not only is it gonna give us good ground clearance, 'cause it does sit up nice and tight against the bottom of our bumper, but it's also gonna give us that good bumper clearance. So, the end of the receiver tube is gonna be pretty much flush with the back here. And what that's gonna allow you to do is use those folding-type accessories without any issues, really. You know, you're gonna be able to put them in that upright position and not really have to worry at all about them hitting the back of our CR-V. Since this is a Class III hitch, it's gonna have that two-inch by two-inch receiver tube opening. And that's a really common size. You know, a ton of different type of accessories will work with it. At the end of the receiver tube, there's a reinforced collar for a little bit of extra support. And it is going to use that standard 5/8 pin and clip. Now, keeping in mind, pin and clip does not come included, but if you need one, not a big deal, you can grab it here at etrailer. The safety chain openings are nice and thick, so you can rely on them. And they're gonna be large enough to use just about any size hook that you might have. As far as hitch's weight capacities go, it's gonna offer us some pretty good numbers. When it comes to the maximum gross tongue weight rating, that's gonna be 525 pounds. And that's gonna be the amount of weight that is pushing down on the hitch. So, with that number, you can use just about any size bike rack or cargo carrier that you'd want to, for example. As far as the hitch's maximum gross trailer weight rating goes, that's gonna be 3,500 pounds. And that's gonna be the amount of weight that is pulling on the hitch. So, there's the weight of your trailer, plus anything that you might have on it. I do always like to suggest so, it's not a bad idea just to grab your Honda's owner's manual. That way, you can make sure your CR-V can pull that much weight safely. And with all that said, you know, if you do plan on pulling a trailer behind your Honda, you are gonna want the lights to work, you know. That way, people know what's going on and you'll be safe and legal. And to accomplish that, you can pick up some trailer wiring. Now, let's just go ahead and grab a couple of measurements. That way, we can try to figure out which hitch-mounted accessories are gonna work out best. So, if you go from the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening, that's gonna be about 14 1/2 inches. So, if you're gonna be pulling a trailer, chances are pretty good, you can use a ball mount that has a straight shank or one that even has a slight rise in it. If you go from the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of our rear bumper, that's gonna be about 2 1/2 inches. And with that measurement, you can figure out exactly if any of those folding accessories you have can be stored in an upright position without hitting the back bumper. So, when it comes down to it, definitely my favorite hitch available for the CR-V. You know, you really can't ask too much more out of it. You know, not only is it gonna look good, but it's gonna get the job done as well. Now, as far as the installation goes, it's really not too bad. I've actually done a couple of these now. And I think none of them I've done that's really fought me or anything like that. But along the way, since I have had a little bit of experience with them, I have found a couple of tricks, if you will, on how to kinda speed things up and make the hitch look even better when you're installing it. So, if you want to, follow along, and we'll pull them to the garage and put the hitch on together now. To begin our installation, we're gonna be here at the back of our CR-V. And along this bottom edge, we're gonna have a couple of push pin type fasteners to remove. So, there's one right here. I'm just gonna take a flathead screwdriver and kinda pry down on it until we work it out completely. I'm gonna do that same thing for this one right here as well. Here, in a moment, we're gonna need to lower our exhaust. Before we do that, though, I like to take a strap, and just kinda run it from side to side. And what this is gonna do is help us control how fast and how far we let our exhaust come down. To get our exhaust lowered, if you look right above our tailpipe here, we're gonna have this rubber isolator hanger, and we need to remove it. I sprayed it down with some penetrating oil. You can always use some soapy water as well. All you're gonna have to do is take a pry bar, kinda work that hanger off of the, another portion there. So, with this one back here done, we're gonna have another one. If we kinda follow the exhaust towards the front of our vehicle, we're gonna have this one right here as well. And we'll do the same deal with that. Pry that off. And now, we should be able to loosen up our strap, and let the exhaust come down some. Now, what we can do is get our hardware into position, here on the bottom of our frame rail. And I wanna mention, from this point on, anything we do to one side of the vehicle, we're also gonna do to the other side, so it'll be set up the same way. But we're gonna have these two smaller holes, and these are gonna be our attachment points. And what you're gonna do to get the hardware in there is you're gonna take the coiled end of the fish wire, put it through. And this one back here, you gotta drop it out of that hole. Then you're gonna take your spacer block, slide that over. And a carriage bolt. You're gonna thread that on. And then feed that hardware up into the frame rail. Essentially, you're gonna do the same exact thing for this one here. Pulling it through, drop it down. And get our hardware threaded onto it. Now, we can trim out the small opening here on our rear fascia. There's some measurements in the instructions, and I went ahead and drew those out here. Before you trim, make sure there's nothing behind the plastic, you know. And this is relatively thin plastic, so I'm just gonna use a pair of tin snips to get this cut out. But you could also use, you know, a Dremel tool, just kind of a standard pair of snips, kinda whatever you have just laying around the house or whatever you find the most convenient. Now, we can take our hitch and get it into position. If you need to use an extra set of hands, you know, have a friend to help you with this, to probably make it a little easier. But it is possible, doing it by yourself. We're just gonna feed the fish wires there to the corresponding holes in the hitch. And I'm just gonna kinda rest it in the exhaust over here. Get that slide through. And what's actually gonna happen, we're gonna pull our fascia back some. The hitch is actually gonna kinda sit up behind it. Get that to line up, and then your hardware drop down. You're gonna remove the fish wire. You'll take a flange nut. And you wanna get at least one started on each side, hand tight. That way, the hitch will support itself. Go ahead and get the other flange nut started here. And once we have all of this hardware in place and hand tight, we'll come back with an 11/16-size socket and snug everything down. Now, if you look here in the center, we're gonna have some more hardware that we need to attach to the hitch. We're gonna have this larger carriage bolt. And what I've done is just spray painted all the stuff, black. And it just kinda helps blend in and match a little bit better, you know, don't stick out so much. But this is gonna go through the hitch, like so. And come out of the other side. What you're gonna do on this side is take the spacer block. Again, I painted all this stuff. We'll put that over and the flange nut. Get that in place. Once we get it hand tight, we can come back and snug it down using a 19-millimeter socket. Now, we need to make sure that we'd come back with a torque wrench and tighten down all of the hardware to the amount specified in the instructions. If you don't have a torque wrench, you can get one here at etrailer. Or a lot of times, you could go to your local auto parts stores, they'll have one there available to rent. So, now all that's left to do is reinstall these plastic fasteners. Those just pop in. And once we have those done, we can rehang our exhaust. So, this time, what I did was just lubricate the hangers again, and we're just gonna lift this up by hand and slide them back on. The same deal with this one up here. With that done, though, we can now grab our strap and get it removed. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Class III trailer hitch receiver on our 2017 Honda CR-V..

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