Edge Backup Camera for Color Touch Screen Monitors Installation - 2010 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Edge Backup Camera for Color Touch Screen Monitors on a 2010 Ford F-150


Today, on our 2010 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Cab, we'll be taking a look at and installing the Edge backup camera for Edge color touchscreen monitors, part number EP98201. Backing up is a snap with this camera. If you don't have a monitor, we have plenty of options for Edge Performance tuners and monitors on our website. Our backup camera engages when we put the F-150 in reverse. As you can see, I'm able to safely backup and I can see everything behind me. We can also access the camera manually by going to the main menu and clicking on view camera. It's great for safely backing into tight spots and also for parallel parking or anything else where you need to see behind you. Now that we've got all the features, I'll go ahead and show you how to get it installed.

The first thing we can do, is go ahead and remove our license plate. Now, we can bring in our new Edge license plate bracket. I'm just going to line it up and see where I need to make a hole for my auxiliary cable. I'm basically just going to line it up with my previous holes, then it looks like I need to make it right here. I can go ahead and mark that and then drill it out. Now, it's a good idea to make sure there's no wires or anything behind our bumper here. I've already gone and checked, we're good.

We also want to be sure to drill out a big enough hole so our auxiliary cable can fit through. I'm just using a 3/8 drill bit here. Cool. With our hole drilled out, let's go ahead and bring in our license plate and our Edge backup camera. What we want to do is we want to place it over our bracket but as you can see, our auxiliary cable here, is going to get smashed. What I'm going to do is I'm going to notch the license plate right where it comes out of the back of the camera. I'm just going to be using some tin snips.

I'm going to get it lined up where it needs to be and then just snip a little bit out. Now, with our notch cut out, we can bring back in our license plate and line it up. As you can see, it's going to line up on the backside perfectly and on the front, you can't even see that anything's cut out. Then, we can line it up with the holes on the backside of our bumper here and I'm going to feed the auxiliary cable through our drilled-out hole. I'll bring it in, line it up with the holes, then we'll take our included hardware and put that through. The backside is going to get a flat washer, a lock washer and a nut. Here on the backside, we'll run our hardware just like we said we would. I'm just going to hand-tighten it for now and then I'll repeat the same process for the other three bolts.

With them all hand-tightened, we can come back and tighten them all down with our 10 millimeter wrench. Be sure not to over-tighten. All you want to do is flatten out that lock washer. Now, we can locate our auxiliary cable. We'll bring in our connection, we're going to line up the notches on the cable and push it on in-place until it snaps in, just like that. Then, we can take our adhesive tape and we want to seal up that connection. This is going to help prevent it from coming apart and from getting damaged by the elements. With that sealed up, we can go ahead and begin routing our cable to the front of our F-150. I've gone ahead and routed my auxiliary cable but I'll show you how I did it. I basically just followed my main wiring in the wire loom here, all the way up to the front of my F-150. I started here, I used the included zip ties, I routed it up through here and I kept going. Once I got over the axle, I routed it over, continued along the wiring here, again, using my included zip ties. Just follow along all the way up to the front and this is where I stopped. Now, we can begin routing it up. Please keep in mind, when routing your wire, you want to avoid anything hot or anything sharp. I'll continue routing my wire alongside the main wiring in the wire loom there. I'm just going to come up around the side of the wheel well and then I'm going to grab it from inside the hood. Once we've got a hold of it, we can just pull it up on through. Now we need to run our cable through our firewall. We're going to be going through this large grommet right here. I'm actually going to go on the other side and poke a hole outward through this way. Here it is on the inside and keep in mind, this is the driver's side. You can see it already has a hole through this side but it's a double grommet, so we need to poke it through the other side. Now, I'm just going to be using a screwdriver. Once I actually poke the hole, I can enlarge it. Another option is to use a box cutter and make a small incision on the grommet, so you can get the wire through easily. Now we'll need to pass our wire through our firewall. We're going to be going through this grommet right here, this large one. I'm actually just going to pull it out, pass my wire through and then I can cut a little slit in the grommet and put it back in-place. Here underneath our dash, you can see where my fingers are here. By popping the whole grommet out, it allows me to easily pass all the wires through without using a pull wire or anything like that. With our wires all inside, now I'm going to take my RCA cable, run it up through and trace it up to my monitor here. To make it easier, I'm going to disconnect the trim here. I'm just going to pull out very gently until it pops loose. Once you pop it loose from here, you can circle around, draw it out and then we can tuck our cable behind our weather stripping here. Then, I'll just take my cable, I'm going to come up, grab it through here and I only want to run enough cable up to my monitor. Now, on yours, it may be routed differently. As you can see, this one was fabricated. I'm actually just going to pop it loose, put my cable through here and then put it back where I found it. You can just run yours to your monitor, whichever way works best. Now, I'm just going to plug my cable into the back of my Edge screen here. If you need it, a right angle adapter is included. Once I've got it plugged in, I'm just going to put it back in-place. With my RCA cable plugged in, I'm just going to retract any excess cable that I may have and then I'm just going to zip tie it to my power wire here, for my monitor. We'll cut off the excess of the zip tie and then I'm going to tuck it behind the weather stripping here. With everything tucked in how I want it, I'm going to take my trim, line it back up and just pop it back in place. I've gone ahead and routed and zip tied my wires up underneath the dash here. Now, to route our wires to the passenger side where the fuse box is, we're going to tuck them under this piece of trim here and work our way across. I'm just going to start right here, I'm just tucking it in. I'm just pushing down, making sure it's not going to pop back, working my way across. I'm just pulling out on the trim here and tucking it in. Now, it looks like with the way we've run our wires, we're going to have just enough room to access our fuse box right here. I'm just going to pull it loose and put that to the side for now. Now let's find a place for our ground and that's going to be our black wire here. We're actually going to be connecting it to this bolt back here, so in order to route it that way, I'm going to finish tucking it around the trim here. I'm just going to pull that out a little bit and tuck it to where it's going that way. Then, once I get back here, I'm going to run it up and over the HVAC here and fetch it from the other side and that's going to put us right where we need to be. Then, once we've threaded over the HVAC here, we'll pull it down and then we're right here at this bolt where we need to be. I'll take that loose, put it underneath and tighten it back down. Now, our nut here's just going to be a 10 millimeter. Let's take that loose, put on our ground and then we'll replace it and tighten it back down. When we pull the panel off here, you can see our fuse cover. We're going to go ahead and pull that off. I'm going to squeeze in on both sides and it just pops off. We're going to be using the fuse here. This ties into our instrument panel and it's number 26. Now, you can either use the included tool that comes with your vehicle to pull this loose, or a pair of needle nose. Now, in it's place, we'll put our fuse tap and the hot side of the fuse is going to be on the left side. We'll need to make sure that the wire is on the left side, as you see it here. We can just go ahead and plug that in, just like that. With our fuse tap plugged in, let's go ahead and connect our connecting wire and then test it out. We'll turn our ignition to the on or run position. On a Edge screen, it's going to be just under the main menu. We'll press the view camera button and there you go. Now that we know everything works, I'm going to start cleaning up my mess here. I'm going to route my wire down through that little open section at the bottom of my fuse holder there that way I can put on my cover. I'll just push it in-place until it snaps in on both sides. Then, I'm going to route my wire up and behind my glove box here. With our wire tucked up out of the way, we can go ahead and replace our panel, put it into the tabbed slots here, circle it over and then push it into place. That's it, we're done. That's going to complete our look and installation of the Edge backup camera for Edge color touchscreen CTS monitors, part number EP98201, on our 2010 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Cab.


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