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EcoHitch Invisi Front Mount Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

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How to Install the EcoHitch Invisi Front Mount Trailer Hitch on a 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 3500


Hello, neighbors. It's Brad here at etrailer. And today, we're taking a look, and installing, the EcoHitch front trailer hitch on a 2019 Chevy Silverado 3500. Now, this is what the front hitch is actually gonna look like when it's installed. And the crazy part is, it is installed. You just can simply take the included license plate bracket, that has a magnet, out when you need to actually use the hitch on the vehicle.

So taking a closer look here, you can see right out the gate, this is gonna be a two inch by two inch opening. And this is gonna be great for a number of different accessories, whether you have a snow plow, a load extender, or even if you just have a bike rack or a cargo carrier up front, it's gonna open the options up to what you can actually do. Now, this has a 5/8 hitch pin hole, and it does actually come with the pin and clip. That way you can actually get your accessories loaded up. It also doubles as well with that license plate bracket on.

You can pin that in. It is magnetized and it's a pretty strong magnet, so it won't pop out. But, this is added protection, and you're gonna have this ready when you need to. Now, this is rated pretty high as well. So for some of those heavy-duty applications, if you're using a winch, you actually have some pretty good numbers.

So out the gate, we have a 10,000 gross trailer weight rating. So if you have a ball mount and you're moving trailers around, 10,000 pounds is a good amount of weight. You also have a tongue weight rating of a thousand pounds, and that's gonna be the downward pressure on the inside of that receiver tube opening. That's gonna be for your suspended accessories, and even your snow plows. Now, as far as your winch, you have a line pull weight rating of also 10,000 pounds.

So overall, a pretty heavy-duty front hitch. Now, a few quick measurements. We're gonna measure from the hitch pin hole to the furthest point on the rear bumper. And that's gonna put us right about three inches. And that's just gonna be important for some of those accessories loaded up, just to make sure you have clearance on your front bumper. Now, as far as ground clearance goes, this one's pretty good, coming in at about about 17 inches. Now, something to keep in mind when you have your accessories loaded onto here, sometimes they'll hang a little bit lower. Just something to keep in mind when you have them loaded on the vehicle and driving. As far as installation goes, this is actually a pretty easy install. You don't have to pull the front bumper off. And a lot of it you could probably do in your garage, or in a driveway You are gonna be cutting into your front bumper and taking out the rivets of the original license plate bracket, but the bracket included gives it a nice clean look. It covers all of that up. Now, as far as that installation, it's a little bit trickier than some of the others, but part of that is because it does live up here. It gives you a little bit more ground clearance, and this is a heavy duty hitch. Now, if you don't wanna cut into your bumper, I also understand that as well. The CURT actually has one available. It's gonna be a little bit lower, and it's gonna have lower weight ratings, but you aren't gonna have to cut your front bumper out. Now, speaking of that install, I'm actually gonna walk you through, step by step, on how to get yours installed. So let's take a look at that now. Now to begin our installation, the hitch is actually going to live right here where your license plate is. So before hopping under the vehicle, you might wanna take that off, because we're gonna be cutting out here. And then once you have your license plate off, we're gonna head under it and take off our rock guard. And the rock guard's gonna be pretty easy to take off. We just have four bolts. These two are kinda facing this way. They're all gonna be 15 millimeters. So now let's go ahead and get these taken off and remove the rock guard, A little plastic pin there that just kinda holds that in place. So now we can set this aside. So now you're gonna want to go where your tow hooks are, and there's gonna be an 18 millimeter bolt here. We're gonna be removing that. And then there's also an 18 millimeter bolt that goes here, and you can see the rest of that hanging out with the nut. So we're gonna go ahead and remove these, but we're gonna be doing this on both sides of the vehicle. And as you're moving or taking this nut off, you're gonna probably wanna put an 18 millimeter wrench on that backside. Otherwise that bolt's gonna start spinning. Now, the wrench is kinda tricky to get in there, so you may have to end up using a socket on that side, just because of the angle, or a smaller 18. And we'll just go ahead and get this removed. And once you get it loose, you're gonna see that the tow hook's already gonna kinda drop down once it's got some tension relieved. So I have the nut here. I'm gonna pull that bolt out. And we'll be putting these in a little bit later, so we'll go ahead and set this aside. So here we have our license plate bracket that we took our license plate off of, and we're gonna need to remove this. This is actually separate from the bumper, And you're gonna see there's four rivets, and the best way to get these out, is just take a 1/4 inch drill bit, and you're gonna just wanna start drilling out the center. And kinda once you get them loosened up, you're gonna see that top part should actually kinda ring around on the drill bit. And there we got one. So we're gonna go ahead and do the same for these. And you're gonna find the instructions on how to actually cut this out with your hole saw. And you're gonna want a four inch hole saw, And when we're be making our holes, it's gonna be right around here, and right here, and then we'll make that connection. So I just used my tape line to find our center mark, and measure down. And then I just measured our radiuses out. Once you have that, we can go ahead and make these holes here. Now, sometimes there's gonna be actually a couple of layers of plastic, so you may have to just kinda keep drilling through. But just take your time here, and we'll make it nice and clean looking. Now, if you'll see, this is slightly off center, and the radiuses that I measured from the center mark, is going to be slightly off. And, that's because it's gonna favor the driver's side. That way you can actually get your pin and clip in place. So if it does look crooked, that is the reason why. So we'll continue on here, just trying to make our holes nice and clean. So now that we have our two holes, we can take our tape marks off. And, we're just gonna kinda connect our circles here, just making this a nice oval. So I'm just gonna go back with just a line of painter's tape here, and this is just gonna make it to where I know for sure our holes are gonna be straight. So I'm actually putting the tape, I have half of the previous license plate hole there, and that way I can kinda just follow this along. I'll do the same on the bottom here. And as far as cutting, you can use a bunch of different things. The plastic's pretty easy to get through. So you can use a pair of shears. I'm gonna be using an oscillating tool, just to get a nice clean line, but a Dremel, or an angle grinder, would work perfectly fine as well. So now that I have this cut out, I'm just gonna go back with a file. You can actually use the flat blade of a knife to kinda go around here to get some of the burs, or you know, just a hand file, but just to kinda make it look a little bit cleaner. We'll go back and just kinda get this kinda trimmed up a little bit better, and should be looking pretty good. So, now at this point, we're gonna wanna grab our spacer block, a star washer, and our bolt, as well as a fish wire. Now, what we're gonna be doing here, is getting our bolt to actually become a mounting point for the hitch. And in order to do that, we're on the inside of the frame rail here, we're gonna take our fish wire and feed the coiled end until we can poke it out through the front of the frame rail where our tow hooks were. You can throw a bend in here if it makes it a little bit easier, but you're just gonna kinda jostle it back and forth, and eventually you should see that coiled end poke through the front. And then you can grab a hold of that. So here we have our coiled end, and so what we'll do is take our spacer block first, and we're gonna just feed that on there. And if you want to, you can actually kinda throw that in the frame rail for now, where you can let it hang, not really a big deal. Next thing we're gonna do, is take our star washer, and we'll feed that as well. And then our bolt is just going to thread onto the coils. Once you have that fully threaded on, what we're gonna do is take the other end of our fish wire, and we're gonna just pull this all through. And sometimes it can get caught with some bolts in there, but it should come out and poke out of the frame like this. Now leave this fish wire on, because it's gonna make it a lot easier when we raise the hitch in place to keep these here. And they're also gonna serve as a point to kinda hold the hitch up. So as we raise the hitch up, you can actually push these back in the frame. And then when we raise it up, we're gonna pull them out and they'll hold it. So then you're gonna wanna go ahead, and just make sure you repeat that same process on the other side. So now with an extra set of hands, we're gonna get this hitch in place. And the way we're gonna do that, is putting this through the hole, but we're also gonna take our fish wires, and we're gonna wanna feed them from the outside going in. And this is gonna allow us again to kinda get our hitch up in place. And then once we raised it up to where that bolt was that we fed, we can pull that in and it'll hold this up. Now it might get a little tight there. There's a little cross member. So a little shove here should get it to pop into place. It'll cradle over that. There we go. And then I'll get my fish wire ready here, 'cause as I raise this up, kinda might need to mitigate it a little bit just by moving it around. But once we get this lined up, we can pull this through and it should hold this in place. Some of the frame coating too might give you a little friction here. So, it is kinda rubberized, so it kinda gives it a little tight feel. But once you get that raised up, and this in place, it should hold up there. So now that we have these pulled through, you're gonna wanna make sure that these don't fall back in the frame. You can take this fish wire off by just kinda pulling it, but I have a finger on our bolt here, just to again make sure it doesn't fall back in. And what we're gonna do is take a flat washer, I'm gonna place it on there, and then follow that up with a split washer. And then we'll take the nut that's also supplied, and we'll just hand tighten this on here. And now we can repeat that same step on the other side. So now we're gonna need to use a bolt, a star washer, and our plate washer here. And it's gonna go on this back slot here. There's a big open hole. And the way we're gonna do that, is actually feeding it through the front of the frame rail. So through the front, since the tow hooks are out of the way, you can actually just kinda feed this in and it should drop in place. And it's a little tight, but with a little angle we should be able to get that bolthead pop in. I can see it's kinda bumping against this center cross member here, so I'm gonna kinda work at it here, but I should be able to get this to drop in. And it does help to actually lift the star washer and the plate washer up towards the head of the bolt. And that's gonna allow that to kinda go through a little bit better. So now we're gonna follow up putting a flat washer, a split washer, and our nut right here. And we're just gonna hand tighten that down. And then repeat on the other side. And before we tighten all of our hardware up, we need to make sure we get our tow hooks back on. So just making sure that we have the proper one. And, this plate is gonna go down, and that's gonna be the hole where we actually just fed those bolts through. It's gonna be the one ahead of it. And so we can just put this back in, and then we'll just feed our hardware back in. Now the instructions also say that you may need to rotate the spacer block that's in there, if you're having any clearance issues. But, that shouldn't be too hard. You can probably use a flat head screwdriver to kinda rotate that around to get that clearance, but we'll get this long bolt in, as well as the bolt that goes down here. And then we can start to hand tighten that down. Now also, you may need to lift the hitch a little bit. You can see we have some wiggle room here. But if it's binding up, that's because it's not aligning with that hole on the other side, but kinda moving around a little bit, should get us the room that we need. So here I can see where they're talking about that clearance. As I try to align this hole, it's kinda binding on here, so I'm gonna grab my flat head and rotate that spacer block. I'm just kinda moving that around a little bit until I can get this to get that weld nut hole aligned. So now we can go ahead and repeat on the other side. So now we're gonna wanna go back and tighten up not only our new hardware, but also our factory hardware. We don't have to get too terribly crazy tight here. You just want it to be snug, 'cause we're gonna go back with our torque wrench and actually get the proper torque setting. So, for now I'm gonna go ahead and just make sure that I tighten down all of my hardware. So, now we're gonna go back with our torque wrench and make sure that we torque these down properly. Now, as far as the torque settings, they're gonna be in the instruction manual. And the new hardware versus the factory hardware, it's gonna have two different settings. So, just make sure that you adjust properly. So, I'm gonna start off by doing my factory hardware here, and this is gonna be our 18 millimeter. Now, if you need a torque wrench, we actually have them available here at etrailer, or you can generally rent them at an auto parts store. And this is just gonna be important. It's gonna make sure that there's not too much stress on the threads, but also that it's not gonna become loose over time. So now we'll just go through and make sure everything's torqued down properly. And once all your hardware is tightened, and torqued down to spec, we can go ahead and put our rock guard back on. And now really all that's left to do, is take our license plate bracket, and we're gonna take our nice hex headed screws, put a flat washer there, and then we're gonna follow it up with that nylon lock nut, and just tighten it down. So now we can get our license plate back in place, and we've actually attached the magnet onto this bracket, which just kinda makes it tricky to load up, but once it's actually in there, it suctions up in there pretty well. And it is holding really well. And to actually get this, to remove it to put your accessories in, you're gonna have to give it a little bit of force there, but you know you're not gonna leave your license plate on the road. It does come with a pin and clip, and that's gonna be great. Not only to put this in place to hold your license plate bracket, but also it's gonna be here when you need to load up your accessories on the front of your vehicle. And that was a look and installation of the EcoHitch front hitch for a 2019 Chevy Silverado 3500..


Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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