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EcoHitch Front Mount Trailer Hitch Installation - 2022 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

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How to Install the EcoHitch Front Mount Trailer Hitch on a 2022 Chevrolet Silverado 3500


Hello, neighbors, it's Brad, here at etrailer. And today, we're taking a look and installing the EcoHitch Front Hitch on a 2022 Chevy Silverado 3500. Now this is what the front hitch is gonna look like when it's installed. And it does require some trimming to get this nice, clean look, but really it sits really well on the front bumper. And the recommendations as far as cutting goes, they've done a fine job of really making this nice and clean and you still have the air dam that goes under. So it looks really factory almost and it protrudes just a little bit, but just enough to be able to get your accessories in without looking to unsightly.

A front hitch is something that not normally people think about unless they've done snow plows or wenches up front. But they've become more and more popular over time, because it adds a little bit of real estate to the front so that way you can add your cargo carriers or bike racks, or even putting a ball mount here. If you need to move some trailers around a lot, no problem, you can hook it up to the front and it makes it easy to push them around. Now as far as weight capacities go, this is rated pretty high. You're gonna have a 10,000 pound line pull.

So pretty decent to be able to move some stuff around or have that wench up there. And if you are loading up those suspended accessories on here, you have a tongue weight rating of 1,000 pounds. So I really don't worry about overloading that too much. So pretty heavy duty, and it's gonna really open it up to the work that can be done with the truck. Now, unlike some other front hitches that are on the market, this one actually has safety chain loops.

Now they are tucked back quite a ways here, but you're able to hook up pretty easily here. Even a larger clevis-style hook will also go on here, so that does open it up a little bit to what you can use this for. Now as far as some of our measurements here, you can see our hitch pin hole, which is gonna be a 5/8 pin and clip, does not come with that. But we're gonna measure from here to the front and you can see, from the furthest point of the front fascia, you're gonna measure the license plate bracket, it's gonna kind of come in at about 3 1/2 inches. That's kind of important for some of your accessories just to kind of see where they sit.

And some of those cargo carriers or bike racks can fold up, so something to consider when choosing accessories. Also, something that's important is gonna be your ground clearance here, 17 inches, so pretty high. So that way if you even have some of those accessories that drop down, no problem, this has plenty of clearance. Now as far as the installation goes, it's really not too terribly hard to do. You are pulling off your center section here, as well as your air dam. And there is gonna be some trimming involved, but it does come with a nice little liner that goes around that. So even those cuts look nice and clean and covered up. Overall, it's just a few bolts. Getting to some of them for torquing them down, a little bit tricky, but this can be done probably within an hour or two, maybe even less, and it can definitely be done in your garage or around the driveway. So let's take a look at the installation and that way you can get your front hitch installed. To begin our installation, we're gonna want to be removing this lower panel here. In order to do that, we're gonna start with these seven millimeter screws. There's gonna be eight of 'em along here. So pretty much just the center section. There's more over here, but for now, we're just gonna remove these. During this whole process, I highly suggest having a place to keep these nice and organized. It's gonna make reinstallation a lot easier. Now there's gonna be eight more seven millimeter screws underneath, so kind of right underneath where our fog lamps are, you're gonna see this step here, so there's two. And then, moving along to this center section, you'll see here. And then on this step down, so there's four in the center, and then two on the other side. You may need an extension to get to these, but we'll go ahead and get these removed. So now we're gonna work our way, these plastic tabs here, we're just gonna kind of push out. And I'm pulling on the outside of our center section here, just kind of making my way down here. Once we get these kind of popped out, we should be able to get this whole section pulled out. And that's just gonna slide out, so we can set this aside for now. So now we're gonna be marking out where we're gonna be doing some cutting. And there's actually a molded portion along here, it's very faint, but there is a center ridge here. So I just ran my tape line along there and it should line up to this injection mold circle here. And I just taped this all the way down and marked it also on this little inset portion of the lower air dam, 'cause we'll be cutting this whole thing up and it's gonna be a rectangle. So it's gonna be three inches wide. So what I did was use my tape line here to just mark over an inch and half, and then I'm gonna run my tape line down to create this portion of the rectangle, and I'm just gonna mimic that on the other side. So just make sure it's nice and squared up and we'll start cutting that out. So I've gone ahead and marked out the rest of the rectangle we'll be cutting. So just to reference, it does have a little molded bend right here, so we're gonna be using that, and then right at this recessed area. So just make sure everything's lined up and just kind of measure each point, make sure it's three inches wide. And then as far as cutting, the best way I've found to do this is using a reciprocating saw. Now as far as cutting, I'm using a reciprocating blade here, and very easy to follow the tape line. You can use a Dremel as well, whatever you have available. If you don't have anything that's easily able to cut through here, you could also drill a hole, and then run just like a jigsaw, something along here. But just take your time. I highly suggest putting that tape line here to keep your lines straight. So I'm gonna start cutting, and make sure you have eye protection while doing this. Now this bottom section on our air dam here, this is separate. So what you can do to make it a little bit easier is once you get this out, get this portion off, this kind of separates out here. So if you need a little bit more access here to cut through there, you can absolutely do that. So now I'm gonna go back and just kind of with a file make sure that we have clean edges here and that it's nice and smooth. Next, on our center panel that we previously removed, we're gonna mark this out as well. It's also gonna be three inches wide, this one's gonna be eight inches. So again, just mark this off with some masking tape to make those lines nice and straight. And then, with an oscillating tool, I'm gonna go and just cut this out, and then we'll go back and clean that up as well with the file. Now go ahead and get just the main burs off of here. And if you're worried about the way that it kind of looks on this edge, then not to worry, because we're gonna be putting some of this Trim-Lok edging around it, and that's gonna clean it up and make it look really good. So just go ahead and get the burs off, that way you can actually get the Trim-Lok on there a little bit easier. Now this Trim-Lok does have metal in it. So in order to get this on, you can go ahead and pry this open a little bit. You can run a flathead screwdriver along here. Don't pry it up too much, you don't want it to completely distort it. But we're just gonna run along this edge. And then, once we're happy with the way that it's fit, just kind of pinch it along there and that should really hold that in place. And then, once you kind of have it all the way wrapped around, just go around make sure it's nice and tight, pushing in those corners really good too, and that's gonna hold that shape. And as I mentioned before, you can kind of just go through and kind of give it some pressure so it holds in place. Now you might have a little bit of extra here, so we can go ahead and cut that off. Now you may need to use a pair of shears that can cut through metal. But, as you can tell, it's gonna make it look a lot cleaner. So now we're gonna go ahead and get this lower air dam removed. So there's gonna be two seven millimeters that are on each side. We'll go ahead and get those. And there's also gonna be one more that's here on the corner, so go ahead and get that removed as well. And now we're just gonna push the tabs here on the back and this should be able to pop out. So now with the hardware removed, we can go ahead and just push these tabs, and then pull our air dam back, and we can go ahead and remove this and set it aside. So before we move along, we're gonna be moving this electrical harness, as well as these bolts here, but I'm gonna go ahead and take the skid plate off now. We do that later on, normally in the instructions. I think it's gonna be easier now to get this removed to give us a little bit more space. So this is a 15 millimeter, we'll go ahead and get these four bolts removed. We can set our skid plate aside. Now here on our tow hooks, we're gonna have an 18 millimeter bolt and an 18 millimeter nut, and this is where our hardware is actually gonna go to mount our front hitch up. So we can go ahead and remove this. Now we aren't going to be using this hardware again, so you can kind of do whatever you want with it. But again, go ahead, remove these, and we'll get these out of the way. So now we can go ahead and repeat on the other side. Now something else we're gonna want to do is our electrical wire loom that we have here, there's some clips holding this in and that's gonna be in the way of the hitch, so we're gonna go ahead and pop these off. Now I have a trim panel tool to make this easier, but you can go ahead and use a flathead screwdriver as well. And once we pop these out, what we're gonna do is just kind of move these to our crossmember here, the circular one, and just kind of tie it up a little bit higher and tight here, that way we have some access here for our hitch to sit in here. And the zip ties do not come in the kit, but you can pick them up here at etrailer. So I'm gonna go ahead and get these cut off too, just to kind of clean this up a little bit. Take our long bolts with a flat washer here, and you're gonna wanna have one, I'm sorry, two of these here, then that way we can pass these through from the outside going in. We're also gonna wanna align our tow hook, so we'll be passing the bolts through there. And it might take a little bit here to align 'em, but we're gonna pass 'em through. And they don't have to go completely through, but we want about 1/4 of an inch sticking out. So we'll go right about there and we'll do the same on the other side here. Grab our spacer plate, and it has a double-sided tape on the back side. So I'll go ahead and I'm just gonna peel this off. And this is gonna go right against, now you can see the notches here are gonna be on the top, but we're gonna place this on the frame, and just kind of push that in, and these bolts are gonna allow that to hang in place here. So we're gonna leave it just like this, and then we'll go ahead and get our other side set up as well. So now we're gonna take our center section and put this back up in place. And then, we're gonna go ahead and attach it. We have the four center ones here, as well as these two side ones on each side that we'll put back in place. With an extra set of hands, we're gonna go ahead and get our hitch lined up with those bolts that we fed through. And then, once we get 'em lined up, we'll push 'em through and I'm just gonna follow it up with a nut just to kind of get this to hold in place, then we can go back and get the rest of the hardware on properly. So we'll go ahead lift this. Once you're gonna get that in place, it is rather tight, but you're gonna just pass those bolts through and that's gonna kind of hold that in place for now. Now for a little security, you can go ahead and put a nut on there on one side and that way it's fully supported and secure. But I'm actually gonna go ahead and just get our hardware on now. So I have a flat washer, a split washer, I'm gonna slide that over our stud. And now that I have my flat washer, my split washer nut on here, I'm gonna go ahead and just get those hand tightened on on the rest of the remaining bolts. Now we're gonna need to pass this bolt down through here to get a stud to bolt this up. Now the way we're gonna do that is take our fish wire here, and you're gonna see this coiled end, I'm gonna pass this up through the holes and just gonna give it a slight bend. We're gonna come out front here where we have our tow hooks. And then, what I'm gonna do is we're gonna take our spacer block that we have here, we're gonna pass that through, and you can go ahead and feed that in there if you'd like. And then, we're gonna follow it up, we have our star washer, as well as our bolt, we're just gonna coil this on. And then, we'll go ahead and feed that in. And then, just kind of bounce this around a little bit. You might be able to kind of help feed it through the hole there where the tow hook was and we should be able to get this stud to pop through. Now, again, I'm kind of moving that spacer block around to where it's sitting in the frame rail and that's gonna allow us to drop in. We might need to shift this a little bit too as well. You can look straight up and see where the stud is, you're gonna want that to poke through. So ours is slightly off. No problem, I'm gonna go ahead and get a dead blow, knock this a little bit, and that's gonna allow us to drop this through. There we go. So just with a little bit of few hits there with the hammer and that's pulling that through. So what I'm gonna do is lightly take off our coil, 'cause we're gonna need to use this for the other side. You don't wanna just pull this off. We're gonna have to reuse this, just uncoil it here. So uncoil it here. And then, we're gonna go ahead and grab a split washer, a flat washer and a nut, and we'll go ahead and get these on. And then, we're gonna reuse our fish wire and just repeat the same process on the other side. We have all of our hardware in place. The only thing we have to do is go back with the torque wrench and torque them down to the manufacturer's recommendations in the instruction manual. Now if you need a torque wrench, you can actually get one here at etrailer. You can rent them in an auto parts store as well. But it's important to do this, that way it's tight enough to where it's not gonna come loose over time, but also that it's not too tight and putting stress on the threads. So I'm gonna go through with my 19 millimeter socket and I'm just gonna make sure they're all torqued down properly. Now for these upper ones, it is gonna be a little bit tricky. I'm using a 19 millimeter wrench here to hold the nut in place. And, normally, I like to torque on the nut side, that's generally the better way to use the torque wrench, but I just don't have access to it or rotation. So slowly, we'll get this one torqued down by using the head side and holding that wrench in place. Now with all of our hardware tightened and torqued down, all we need to do is get our air dam back on, as well as our skid plate. Now with everything back in place, looks really good, all that's left to do is start using our front hitch. And that was a look and installation of the EcoHitch Front Hitch on a 2022 Chevy Silverado 3500..


Info for this part was:

Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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