Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2010 Infiniti QX56

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2010 Infiniti QX56


Hey everybody, Rob here at eTrailer.com. Today we're going to be taking a look at the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2010 Infiniti QX56.Now here's what our hitch is going to look like once we have it installed. It is going to sit right below the bumper but the only part we're really going to see is in that little cutout section, because our hitch is going to fit perfectly right there. It has a really clean, almost factory look to it.It's going to give us a 2" x 2" receiver tube opening, which is going to give us the widest variety of options when we want to mount up accessories. Obviously you can tow a trailer, put a ball mount in there or if we need to make room on the inside we could put a cargo carrier back here. Put some gear back here or if we just want to hit the trails we could put a bike rack in there, and put some bikes on, and go with some friends.But regardless of how we're going to be using it, whether we're using it for recreational purposes or towing, all of our accessories are going to mount to the hitch pin hole here on the side.

Now our hitch is going to accept a standard 5/8" pin and clip. These are not going to come with the hitch but you can find them here at eTrailer.com.Now I know a lot of you are going to be wondering what that secondary hole towards the opening of the receiver tube is. That's going to be exclusively for the J-pin stabilization device. Now the way this is going to work is we're going to take the nut off of the shank here. We'll take the threaded end and put it into the hitch pin hole.

Once it comes out the other side we'll put the nut on. Then this hook here is going to come in and apply pressure to the accessory. That's going to prevent it from rattling around and making a bunch of noise, but at the same time our J-pin is also a locking device. So not only is it going to cut down on that annoying rattle but it's also going to keep all of our accessories nice and secure. Now this is sold separately, but again you can find it here at eTrailer.com.Now if you're going to be towing a trailer obviously you need a spot to hookup your safety chains.

Now we get a plate-style at the bottom of our receiver tube here. Even with the normal sized hooks we'll have plenty of room to get them hooked on. There is a little bit of a thick flange, so you may want to come from the front. As you can see we can still get them hooked on but it is rather thick there. If you have some of the large oversized hooks it may be a little bit easier, only because that flange there is a little big, but we shouldn't have to worry about any kind of interference and we'll still be able to get them engaged.Now the weight capacity or what our hitch is going to be capable of doing, obviously, is very important.

Now our hitch has a 600 pound tongue weight. That's going to be the maximum downward force at the end of the receiver tube here. It also has a 6,000 pound gross trailer rating. That's how much it can pull but that does include the trailer and everything you have loaded on it.Now it is compatible with weight distribution systems as well. That's going to be a separate component that's mounted on your trailer. It's going to bump the tongue weight up to 1,000 pounds and the gross trailer weight rating up to 10,000 pounds, but you always want to double check your QX56 owner's manual because that is the range for the hitch and we don't want to exceed the manufacturer's rating for our car.I'd like to give you a few measurements. These are going to help you out whenever you're looking for accessories for your new hitch. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is going to be right about 19 1/2". Now that measurement's going to help you when you're looking for a ball mount, so you can find the appropriate rise or drop to match up to your trailer. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is going to be right about 1-1/2", but keep in mind our hitch is going to stick out an additional 1-1/2" past the bumper. It's not going to be too much to worry about hitting your leg on, but just to give you an idea it is going to stick out just a little bit. But those measurements are going to help you find a folding accessory, to make sure you have enough room to where you can put them in the upright stored position and they're not going to make contact with the rear bumper.Now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features let's go through the installation process together.To begin our installation we want to come to the back of our Infiniti. Now yours may have a panel right here in the center. Ours is already missing, but if yours is there you want to pull it down. It's either going to be held in by pushpin fasteners or it could possibly be riveted in. If it is riveted in you're going to have two on each side and then three on the top. The easiest way to take those out is you just take a pair of cutters. If you cut part of the rivet out you should be able to pull the rest of it out and pull the panel down. But once that's taken care of we'll move underneath and move to one side of the frame rail.We're over on the driver's side here. If we look at the very back towards the bumper we're going to have two threaded holes at the very back on the bottom of the frame. If we follow it forward we'll have another threaded hole right here. Now those are going to be our three attachment points on both sides of the frame, but as you can see inside the threads they're kind of dirty and they got some rust in there. I'm going to take some spray lubricant, I'm going to spray it inside. Then I'm going to come back with a nylon tube brush and clean out the well nut inside there. Make sure there's no dirt, debris or rust that'll cause any kind of cross threading. I'm going to go through, and clean out each one of the well nuts, and make sure they're nice and clean. Now if they're extremely dirty you may want to run a tap through there. The correct tap size for our bolt holes is going to be an M12x1.25.Once you have all your well nuts cleaned out you want to grab one of your M12 bolts. I like to run through and just thread it into the well nut, make sure a couple threads will get started pretty easily by hand. I like to go through and check all of them, make sure it's not going to cross thread.But while we're here I'll go over the combination of hardware we're going to use to hold our hitch up. We're going to have our hitch lined up against the frame. We'll take our bolt, want to slide a split lock washer over it, and then we'll take a flat washer. We'll go through the hitch, up into the frame, and secure everything down into the well nut just like that. That's going to be the same combination for all the well nuts both sides of the frame.Now I do suggest getting an extra set of hands, but we're going to lift our hitch up. On the passenger side you want to make sure it goes over the tailpipe. Then we're going to lift it up to where the side plates lineup with the frame. We're going to take our hardware and right now we only need to get one bolt in, just to make sure the hitch is going to hold itself up. You want to get a few threads started on each side and then we can work on getting the rest of the hardware in.Now I'm going to grab a 3/4" socket. You can also use a 19 millimeter socket. We're going to tighten up all the bolts holding the hitch in place. You want to make sure you come back with a torque wrench and you're going to torque your hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. I'm going to go back and repeat this for all of my remaining hardware, making sure they all get tightened down.But once you have all your bolts torqued down that'll finish up your installation and your look at the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2010 Infiniti QX56.


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Info for this part was:

Video by:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Robert C

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