Draw-Tite Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Ford F-250 Super Duty

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2019 Ford F-250 Sup

Hi there Ford owners. Today on your 2019 Ford F250 we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the hide-a-goose underbed gooseneck hitch. And this is what your gooseneck hitch is going to look like in your truck bed. The only thing that's really sticking up is going to be the gooseneck ball here. Your safety chain loops, they can pull up, but they immediately go back down tight and they remain relatively flush with your truck bed.The balls is removable by lifting up on the lock mechanism, giving a twist to hold it unlocked, and then you simply pull the ball out. When you're not using your ball the hole that's located in your hitch can be covered up using the included rubber cover.

It simply pushes down into the hole giving you a nice flush finish in the back of your truck bed and also keeping any dirt and debris out of your gooseneck hitch. This is great when you want to have full truck bed access when not hauling your gooseneck trailer, because we know you're not always using your trailer. You're got a lot of work and other things you want to do, and why have your gooseneck hitch be a hindrance when doing those things.When you are towing you're going to be impressed by the high weight ratings of 8,125 pounds for its tongue weight, and 32,500 pounds for its gross towing capacity. This will give you plenty of towing capacity whether you are pulling your race cars behind you and your car hauler, bringing your toy hauler to the campsite, or like my friend Tom's dad, taking your horses from stable to stable and on to the show.And here you can see your underbed gooseneck installed. The entire assembly including the rails is going to be of solid steel construction with a black powder coat finish to ensure a long-lasting, rust-free, durable component.

One of my favorite things about this underbed gooseneck besides it being hidden under the bed, is that it's a completely no-drill installation as far as mounting. You won't have to drill anything into your frame. It uses all existing holes. So you just set your hardware up, run it through the holes, and bolt everything down.You will have to drill out the hole in the truck bed for your gooseneck to go through, and for your safety chain cables, but this is going to be standard for all the goosenecks. You're always going to have to drill for these components.

Many other goosenecks out there will require you to drill into your frame, which is a very thick and hard material and it adds a lot of time to the installation. It's also easy to accidentally drill in the wrong location and that you have to modify that to get it to work. With all the holes already being there, and just having to run your hardware through, it's not only easier but it's worry-free that you're not going to mess anything up.What's nice about this gooseneck ball and hitch is that it doesn't rotate inside the hitch assembly. Some other models will slide down in the bulk and rotate in the hitch which can potentially cause wear. This ball has a double locking mechanism here where the balls will stick out and hold it in place.

You can see them protrude when I push the lock down, and they can release in when you pull the lock up. You can see here if I try to put the lock back down, it won't go all the way until I twist it into its locked in position.We'll begin our installation underneath the back of the vehicle. You'll want to make sure you've got your spare tire lowered down so it's going to give you a lot more room to work. Now that our spare tire is out of the way, we're going to remove our heat shield and lower down our exhaust. To lower down the heat shield, we're going to remove three nuts, one towards the rear and two towards the front here, using a 13mm socket. We can now lower this down and set it aside.Next we'll lower the exhaust down. We're going to remove the rearmost hanger here by removing the bolts using a 10mm socket. There's two on the other side as well. We'll then go towards the front of the vehicle and just pry off the hangers that are further forward. We're now just in front of the axle. We're going to use some silicone lubricant to make it easier to pry off, and we're just going to pry the rubber hanger off using a pry bar. We're going to do that with each of the rubber hangers. And then even further forward, you'll find one more totalling three.Now, just across from our exhaust on the driver's side above the rear axle, we're going to want to remove this hanger bracket here so we can get it out of our way. There's two bolts we're going to take out using a 13mm socket. Now that's just going to hang there in place. We just need to be able to move it.We'll now install our frame brackets. We're going to start by putting the outside ones on. On your vehicle you may have the inside brackets already welded to the frame. If so, you won't be using the inside brackets that come with the kit. Ours already has those brackets welded to the frame so we're just going to be using the outside. If you needed the inside, you would use those at this time as well and put them up as the hardware goes through all of them.So we're going to take our outside bracket. We're going to line it up with the holes that already exist on the outside of our frame. We'll then take the longest bolts that come in our kit. We're going to place a flat washer on it, and we're going to slide it through the holes. Here on the other side you can get a better look of your inside bracket and you can see ours is a pre-welded bracket that already existed. If not, at this time you would take the bracket that comes in your kit and you would slide it on as well for your inside.We're going to be sliding conical tooth washers on the inside with the teeth facing towards the frame, and then placing a nut on the other side. We're going to do this for the other bolt on this side, and then we're going to repeat the same procedure on the other side.We'll now take the bracket labeled #4 in your kit. We're going to bring it up over our exhaust towards the front of our passenger side. We want to place the threaded holes in the #4 bracket above our frame rails that we just installed. You can see here that the L shape that's bending downwards here we've got just forward of our shock. Before we line up our holes in our bracket with the ones in the frame, we want to make sure that we slide the carriage bolts that come in the kit down through the square holes in our bracket. There's one carriage bolt that's going to go into each bracket we install. It's important you remember to slide those in before putting your hardware in to hold the brackets in place because there's not really enough room between the bed and the bracket once you've got it attached to get the carriage bolt dropped down.And on your outside bracket you'll want to line the threaded hole up with the second hole from the front. We'll then take the shortest bolts that come in our kit, place conical tooth washers with them facing up, and we're just going to start it in there with a couple of threads. We don't want to tighten it down just yet. We just want to get it started. Okay. We're going to do the same thing with the threaded bolt hole on the inside bracket.Next, we're going to install the three remaining brackets. Each one is numbered for the correct position that it needs to go in. They all install the exact same way, by using the same hardware and threading into the threaded nuts on the brackets. We're going to be placing the #6 at the passenger rear. We'll be putting the #3 on the driver's front. And then the #5 on the driver's rear. When installing brackets 3 and 4, they're going to overlap each other. And so will brackets 5 and 6.Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to raise our center section into position. You want to lift it up over your exhaust and your differential. And the carriage bolts that we had previously dropped down will line up with the four outside holes in your center section. You want to drop the carriage bolts down through those holes, place a conical tooth washer facing up towards the hitch, and then thread a nut on it. You'll repeat this for the three remaining carriage bolts that are going through the holes in your center section.We'll now take the medium sized bolts that come in our kit. We're going to place a flat washer on it. And we to then lift up on our center section and push up on our side brackets that we had installed. And we want to slide these from the outside in, lining up all the holes in our brackets. I did find that it was a little bit easier if you just placed the flat washer on first and slide the bolt through all of them, because it is a pretty tight clearance here between this beam. Once you've slid that through, on the other side we're going to place a conical tooth washer with the teeth facing toward this head of the bolt and then place a nut on the other side. We're just going to hand tighten that, leaving it loose and then we're going to repeat that same process for the two remaining holes that are located here towards the back, and the four remaining holes towards the front.We're now in the bed of our truck. We want to use the dimple that already exists in your truck bed. That's going to be the mark that shows the center where we want to place our gooseneck ball. We're going to make a pilot hole. Use a 1/4" drill bit to do that. We'll just line our drill bit up with the dimple and then drill out our pilot hole. Now that we've made our pilot hole, we'll take a 3-1/2" hole saw and we're just going to cut out our 3-1/2" hole for our gooseneck ball. Once you've cut your hole we'll take a vacuum and clean up all these shavings, and we'll use Clear Coat to seal up the metal.We'll now insert our ball into our hitch. You'll want to lift up the lock and give it a twist to keep it released. Slide it in place, and then lock it back down. We'll now use a 3/16 drill bit and we're going to use our hitch as a guide to drill out for our safety chain U bolts. You'll have two holes on each side of your center section. You want to place your drill bit in the center of these slots and drill out your pilot hole with a 3/16 drill bit. This is going to go through the lower corrugation to help minimize the U bolt sticking up in your truck bed. Then we'll enlarge our pilot holes using an 11/16 drill bit. And just like with our other hole, we're going to vacuum up our shavings and then put a little Clear Coat on them to protect our holes. Then drop your U bolts down into the holes and we'll secure them on the underside.And now on the bottom of our U bolts we're going to place a conical tooth washer followed by a spring and then a nut. To make it easier to get your nuts on, you want to look at the nut. There's a smooth side that you see here. And the other side here you see has got kind of a triangular groove cut around it. That's going to be your locking side so we want to make sure that's down. It'll be easier to start your nut if you do it that way. And now we'll tighten them up until we have at least three threads showing on the bottom side of the nut.Now we can go back and tighten down all of our hardware using a 15/16 socket. Then we'll torque it all down to the specifications found in our instructions. You'll want to do it in a specific order. We'll start with our center section corner bolts, then our center section front and rear bolts that are going in through the sides here, and then lastly we'll do our frame bracket bolts on the outside.Once all your hardware has been torqued down your hitch installation is complete. All you have left to do is to reinstall the components we moved to get out of the way. So we'll put our bracket back on. It'll bolt right into the same location using the same hardware we took it out with. Then we'll place our exhaust back into position. We want to lift it up and slide all the hangers back in place.And that completes our look and installation of the hide-a-goose underbed gooseneck hitch on your 2019 Ford F250.

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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Dustin K
Test Fit:
David F

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