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Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 GMC Sierra 2500

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How to Install a Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2016 GMC Sierra 2500

Speaker 1: Today on our 2016 GMC Sierra 2500 we're going to take a look at and also show you how to install the Draw Tite Hide-A-Goose. Part number is 9465-56.Now, here's what our gooseneck's going to look like fully installed and ready for use. You can see, we've got the 2-5/16 inch ball right in its pocket there, and the pin from the outside going through to secure it. This is going to give us a great connection point for our trailer, and make hauling a lot easier. Now, when we don't want to use it, we'll simply have to pull the pin on the side. Once that's pulled, you see the ball's just going to lift straight out.

You'll be able to drop that right back down and in, and to secure it in place, we can release the pin. All right, with the pin released, that's just going to leave a nice flush bed.Draw Tite's provided you with a magnetic cover. That's going to go right over the top. That's going to keep any dirt, moisture and stuff like that from going down in. See our safety chain connection points are on each side here.

Easy to get to and pull up, and they're about flush with the bottom of our bed, so we're still going to have full use of our bed, not taking up any space and we're not going to have that annoying ball sticking up right in the middle that we'll have to deal with.Now, as far as capacities are concerned, the head itself has a 7500 pound vertical load limit, so that's the maximum downward force we can put on the ball. It's going to offer a 30,000 pound gross trailer weight rating. That'd be the total weight of the trailer and anything that we we're to load up on it. Now, the custom fit rails that are on the outside are rated for 22,000 pounds. That's going to be the weakest link, so we want to limit our gross trailer weight rating to the 22,000 pound mark, or whatever your truck is rated for, whichever one of those two are the lowest.Here you'll see our custom fit brackets.

They're a little dusty from the truck right now, but these are going to mount directly to holes that already exist in the frame, so we're not going to have any issues at all with drilling into the frame or modifying our frame. Of course, we have to put a few holes in the bed of the truck to get the ball through, but as far as the frame goes, everything's going to stay structurally the same. Now, when you're done with your handle you can leave it in the position here, or if you choose to, it will rotate. Going to tuck it up and out of the way there.Now, we need to do a few things to prepare the truck for the rails and everything to come in. You're going to have four bolts.

It's going to be one right on top of this cross member here. All of them are going to require a 13 millimeter socket. We've got one there. There's going to be one located all the way in the front, and then we're going to have one on top of the frame rail here, and one on top of the frame rail here. Once those are removed, we can get this pulled out. We'll just be able to remove this.Our next step will be to come up to the heat shield on the fuel tank here, and we need to take off about the top 1 inch of that. Now, in your instructions there's going to be measurements whether it's a short bed or a long bed. You want to be sure to choose the right one. In our case, we've got a sprayed in bed liner. We've checked the back, it's about 1/16 of an inch thick, so what we need to do is take the measurement, and we're going to add that to it. If it's an 1/8 inch thick, you'll want to add an 1/8. If it's 3/8 thick, add 3/8. That's going to help you get in the correct position.Once we have the length from the back of the bed figured, we need to put this perfectly in the center, side to side here. Once we've got that spot centered, we've verified it, double checked it, triple checked it, I'm going to take a center punch, place that right at our intersection, and get that punched out. That's going to give us a really nice indent. It'll help our drill bit out so we won't have to worry about it walking too much, and we'll get this hole drilled out. Now, it's going to be a good idea to vacuum up any of the metal shavings once we have our hole cut. Pretty much, we're going to do this any time we drill a hole in the bed. That way, we're not tracking these metal shavings inside the truck or across the bed, scratching it up.Now we're going to take care of these fender liners. We need to get these removed at least temporarily. We can leave them uninstalled, or after we have everything installed we can just trim them out and put them back in. That's going to be up to you. You're going to use a T15 torques bit. We're going to take out little screws that hold it in place. You'll have two on the bed rail here. Then we'll have three, four, five, six, seven, a couple across the top here making eight. We'll have nine, there should have been one here and also one here, but it looks like those have already been removed. Now we'll head to the driver's side and we can do the same thing there.Now, since we're dealing with this short bed truck, we need to cut out a little room here for us to slide our rails in. If you've got the eight foot bed version, you can likely put them up in from underneath. On the short bed, we're going to take out just a small notch here, and it's really going to allow that angle to pass through. You can do this with whatever kind of high speed cutoff tool you've got. You could also take a hacksaw and cut up and then try to bend it back and forth. Typically, some type of cutoff wheel is going to work best for you.Now, our space should be large enough to allow us to slide our rail in over top of the frame. The front rail is the one that's got the larger welded on piece here, and it's going to have the four holes here. We'll have our side that has the four holes and the elongated holes, is going to be in position like this. Once we have it underneath the truck, this will be towards the front. Now, initially if you cut your hole in your rail, it gets bound up, you just want to enlarge it slightly to allow this free passage. We don't need to overdo it, but you do want it to slide in pretty freely. We want that to go over, and it's going to rest on top of the frame rail on the other side as well.All right, once that's there, we'll slide it forward. Then we'll put our rear rail in. The rear rail's going to go in the same way. We're going to slide it in. The elongated holes, this rib or this edge is going to be facing the front of the truck, this is going to face the back of the truck. Here's our rails underneath the bed of the truck, this is where we cut our hole. You see, what we've done right here, it's a good idea to use some undercoating or some spray paint just to touch up that bare metal.Want to bring our rear rail back. We need to take the 2 inch carriage bolts, we've got some that are 2 inch and some that 2-1/2. For the rear rail, we use the 2 inch. We're going to drop them in these oblong holes on each side here. We're going to slide through the 2-1/2 inch bolts. Bring our rear rail all the way back, then we're going to place the Hide-A-Goose onto those studs in the front. Then behind that, we'll place a conical tooth washer. The teeth need to face towards the head of the bolt, and also one of our hex nuts to secure.Now, as we install it, we want the silver handle connection point to be facing over towards the driver side, and our bolts are going to go through the two elongated slots that are on each side there. These nuts, we're going to leave very loosely installed. That's going to allow us to move our head side to side, get everything positioned where we want it. We'll have plenty of time to tighten these down later.Now it's time to rotate our rear rail upward. Now, once we've got the holes lined up with our bolts and we've got that verified, when we go to stand up our rail, on occasion it doesn't want to stand straight up vertical. If that's the case, it's a good idea to get you a crescent wrench, kind of put it on one side, kind of help to twist that into that vertical position, so then your bolts will go up and through. If it doesn't start, we can slide our assembly forward a little bit. I like to use either a large screwdriver or a rod like this. You have to pull up on it slightly, and that's going to help us get these aligned. Let's place the same hardware on those as well.Now we're ready to come up top, and we want to make any adjustments necessary to really center that up just about as perfect as we can. That way, it looks nice from up here on the top side. Now, for the frame brackets, we've got two attachment points we're going to be using. We've got this one right here, and this one right here. To get our hardware in place, we're going to take one of the pull wires. It should go through that, and out one of the large holes on the other side of the frame there. Bring that around. Now we need to add a spacer block onto that. Also, thread on one of the carriage bolts. Now we'll hold onto our pull wire, and we want to feed these into the frame rail separately, and that'll allow us to pull them on out, just like that. We'll do that for this location, and also the forward one.Now we bring our side plate up, we're going to place the rear bolt fish wire through the rear hole, and the forward's going to go to the one that's second from the front here. Now, before the forward goes through, we'll have to put that large spacer block on right there. All right, you can see that the studs on the end of our rails also came through. Now, on each one of these, we want to do the exact same hardware we've done on all of our other bolts.Now it's time for us to go through and start tightening everything down. We'll want to follow the instructions and go step by step, but before we do, you're going to notice this forward attachment point in the wheel well where those inner liners were, this is going to be directly over our bolt. What we're going to do is just cut those off on each side flush. Now, for our tightening process, we're going to start with the bolts that come down through the top. Now, in the instructions, you're going to find torque specifications for every bolt. Each of them might be the same, might be different, so check and torque each one down appropriately in the order you're supposed to.Now we'll come to the outside and we want to torque down the cross rails to the side plates first, and then our side plates to the frame. On the front side and the back side here on the driver's side, there's going to be an oblong slot. On the opposite side we're going to have the same thing. These are going to be the points where our safety chain connection points will come down through. We want to drill a hole. Now, we could use a drill bit from underneath and drill our hole up through. It's typically easier to drill down from inside of the bed.What I want to do is start with a 9/16 inch bit from the bottom, and we want our holes to be created in the lower part of the bed corrugation. You can see, this is the lower part, and where it goes up is the higher part. You want it to be in the lower part. In our case, that's going to be all the way on the outside of our holes. Of course, check your fit and make sure that's the same. Then we'll be able to mark our holes just using that bit. That'll give us the center point that we can use to drill our pilot hole with. Now, this one you're not going to be able to get to from the bottom, but I'll show you a trick with that one once we get up top.Now, we're going to enlarge the holes that we've got marked, the three of them, up to a 9/16. I like to enlarge our holes just slightly. That's going to ensure we've got adequate room, and it'll allow our connection points to move up and down freely. Now, for the forward connection point here, you just want to measure 3 inches from center forward, and we'll make our hole in the same location. They said the U bolts have a slight difference to them. We want that shorter leg to be on the driver side front. It's going to give us room for our fuel tank there.Now let's got to the underside and we can put our hardware on. We'll take one of the flat washers, that's going to go up on each of our points. Then our spring, and then we've got our lock nut here. Now, we're going to tighten these so that we've got at least three threads showing underneath. While you tighten them, you'll want to hold your spring up, or it can get in the threads of the nut. We'll do that for all four points. This one's going to be a little bit tougher, just because it's that short leg.Now we can take our handle, just going to place that right over the frame rail for now. We'll head underneath and use the pin to connect it. Now we'll slide this in, and this one will line up that hole with the hole that's in the part that comes off the head there. Slide that in like that. Now we'll be able to, from the outside of the vehicle, pull that open and slide it back.Now, just like we did under the bed for the large hole that we drilled and also the safety chain connection point, we're going to want to use some undercoating or paint to cover up that small tab we took off here, and also the notch there. Liner in here and kind of rotate it up into position. Now we just need to go around and line up each of those holes, and we'll get our screws started and get them all secured in.Now, here on the driver side it's likely we're going to have to modify a small area in the liner. Let's see where our handle's at here. The top of it doesn't go past that edge, so we can cut right down that edge there. That allows us to lock it forward, but not quite all the way back, so we'll take out just a little bit more there. That'll complete our installation of the Draw Tite Hide-A-Goose, part number 9465-56 on our 2016 GMC Sierra 2500.

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