Draw-Tite Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2006 Dodge Ram Pickup

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2006 Dodge Ram Pickup


On this 2006 Dodge Ram Pickup, 2500 series. We're going to show you the Hide-A-Goose under bed gooseneck trailer hitch with the installation kit. Part number 9464-35. This is what the hitch looks like when it's installed in our truck. As you can see there's really not much to it. It's all very flat and doesn't stick above the bed of the truck, until you put the hitch ball into place.

This is our hitch ball. Two and 5/16th diameter and it's rated for 30,000 pounds. With the pin in place, the ball's definitely not going anywhere. To unlock the pin, which is very easy, you just pull it out and move it to one side or the other, and it clicks into place. Then you can take the ball out.

When you're not using it you can store the ball upside down in the hitch. Then to lock the pin pull it out and let it fall back into center. Of course we had to make some holes for U-bolts and for our hitch as well. Beyond that there's no drilling required on this tuck. This uses U-bolts and existing holes in the frame to keep everything in place. The towing capacity of this hitch is rated at 30,000 pounds, just like we saw on hitch ball.

It's also good for 7,500 pounds of vertical load limit or tongue weight. Always double check with your owners manual or your dealership to make sure your vehicle can pull these kinds of loads. The first step in installation is to get our truck ready to install the hitch. It works out really good if you can lift the truck up and take the rear wheels off, gives you much easier access to your frame. Also we definitely need to remove the spare tire as well for easier access underneath the frame, and underneath the bed as well. Next up we have to lower our exhaust out of the way to give us some more working room.

First we'll go ahead and put a strap around it or anything to support it before we lower it down. I'm using a simple cam buckle strap. Next, we'll spray down the rubber hangers like this right here with some spray lubricant and then we'll go ahead and pry them off. We'll do a couple more just in front of the axle, in front of the muffler. Now also on this one, is that sometimes two or three rings in the very end of the prongs here. You have to remove those with needle nose pliers and work them off, so you can take this assembly off. Now we can go ahead and pry off the rubber hanger. Next up our wire harness right here. It has to be loosened up, because, we'll have a U-bolt, it'll go underneath it and around your frame. Now you can pull these off by hand if you want, but the trim panel tool will work too. These are most of the time pretty loose. Next up we have to drill a hole in the bed of the truck. To do that we'll measure from the end of the bed to the length described in the instructions. Now there'll be two different lengths for six foot and eight foot beds, so make sure you get the right one. We'll make our distance mark. Then we'll make sure that it is even from left to right. Now we'll drill a very small pilot hole first, to keep it as accurate as possible. Then we'll follow-up with a 1/4" drill bit. Now we're going to use a 3-1/2" hole saw. Now the actual hole saw size actually comes with the hitch itself, so always go by that. Since our corrugation is up on the edges, you can make the hole saw skip around a little bit, so we're going to use a piece of plywood that has a hole already drilled in it, to help keeping it from skipping around. Next up we're going to work with the cross members. These bars go underneath the truck. Now, these bars are identical, but do sit different ways. This edge with the oval and the square holes will sit like this going towards the front and then going towards the back, it'll sit the opposite way. Before we put it in place we need to install hardware. We'll be using the carriage bolts that come with the head assembly or the hitch. It sits in the middle. We'll simply drop them in like this in some square holes in the far outside. To help keeping from from falling out, I'll take the nuts that come with them, they're lock nuts and I'm just going to run them on just a few threads until they stop. Do the same thing to the other bar. We'll take the nuts off later when we put the hitch into place. Let's go ahead and put our cross members into place. We're going to start with the cross member, it goes back towards the back of the truck. We'll put this in over the exhaust on top of the frame first, as far as we can into the corner. Push it past the shock. Get it above the frame right here on our driver's side. We'll pull it back. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process for the front one. However, the bolts will be pointing towards the back. Now we'll go ahead and loosely install the frame brackets. We're on the passenger's side here. We'll line up this hole with our front cross member. We'll loosely install the 5/8th" bolt, flat washer and lock washer. It would be a good idea to go ahead and clean up the threads to make sure this bolt fits before you put your bars into place. This hole will line up with this cross bar here. We'll just keep everything loose just to hold everything together. Next up we'll go ahead and install the U-bolt that goes around the frame. You'll use these two holes here. Our hardware will be a counter tooth washer. You notice the teeth on here that always stays towards the hitch. Then 1/2" nut. Same thing on the bottom here. Do the same thing with this U-bolt, but it won't go all the way through yet. We're going to install this stiffener bracket behind the frame bracket. Then we can go ahead and run our U-bolt through. Next we'll go ahead and install some hardware for our stiffener bracket right here. It's going to match up this hole in the bottom of the frame. The hardware that'll go inside the frame will be this block and this carriage bolt. To help get it in there, the kit comes with a bolt leader that'll push it through the hole we're going to use and access hole. We'll take our block, push down through the bolt leader and into the frame. Then we'll take our carriage bolt and thread it onto the bolt leader. Push that into the frame and pull out the hole. The hardware we install will be the familiar counter tooth washer and nut. We're done with our passenger's side for now. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process over on our driver's side. We're about ready to put the hitch into the crossbars. It will help to have a crossbar for the bolts pointing straight down. What I'm going to do, take a pry bar and push up on the cross bar until the bolts are pointing down. Then using a 15/16" ratchet wrench, I'll go ahead and snug the bolts down just to help keep it from moving around, just enough. We'll also take the nuts off the hardware now. Now when we put it up into place, it might be a good idea to use a strap. I'm using a cam buckle strap here to help pick it up and pull it though the hole in the bed. You could also put the hitch ball into place and have an extra set of hands pull up with that as well. We'll reinstall the original nut we used and also add the flat washers to it. A couple things to remember when we put this into place, we'll make sure the pin here is facing towards the driver's side. It's also offset so the offset is going towards the front. That'll match up with the hole in the bed compare it to the rails. Now we've got ours still really loose right now, so before tightening it down we'll go ahead and line up with the hole in the bed and then we'll tighten it up. We'll tighten down our hardware using a 15/16ths socket. We'll just tighten it down just enough to take up the slack. When we first put it up here, maybe take a few moments to go ahead and center this in the hole. They'll be a little bit of play in there, which you can use the hitch ball, put it in place and I'm using a non-marring mallet. You can just knock it around whichever direction you need to be. Next it'll be a good idea to go ahead and make sure the cross members are square with cross members in the bed. That way we can drill out the U-bolts for safety chains and they won't be a little bit crooked. I simple measure from the edge of the cross rail to the edge of the hitch channel. Make sure it's the same on both sides. You may have to loosen up some of the hardware a little bit on the outside to make sure you've got the flexibility you need. Now at this point with everything in place, we can go ahead and tighten down our hardware for good. All of our previous bolts, we just and them snugged down just enough to hold their shape. We'll go ahead and do our U-bolts to our frame bracket first and our bolt down here. When we tighten down our U-bolts we want to make sure we tighten them down evenly on both sides. After the U-bolt is tightened down, we'll torque the bolts down as specified in the instructions. This is our passenger's side and one more time on our driver's side. Next up we'll go ahead tighten and torque the bolts that do the cross member to the frame bracket. Again, we'll need a 15/16ths socket. Last four bolts we need to tighten and torque down, will be the four bolts from our hitch to our cross members. We'll go ahead and install the handle for the pin. We'll go ahead and route it through here and install it into the hitch. Install it into this pin here and then through this hole we'll install a simple clip. It's quite a tight fit. Sometimes it helps to use some pliers to go ahead and get a good grip on it and push it into place. Next up is our U-bolts for our safety chains. They're going to install into these slots right here. Now we're going to drill on this side of the slot right here, so that way when we install the U-bolt this will sit inside the corrugation and be as low as possible. You also notice that one leg is shorter than the other. That's to give us a little bit of extra clearance, when the exhaust is put back up in place. First, we'll go ahead and mark the holes using 1/2" drill bit. That was our passenger's side. One more time on the driver's side. Then I'll drill a pilot hole through using a 1/4" bit. Now we'll go ahead and drill our pilot holes out to a half an inch. We'll go ahead and put our U-bolts into place. Remember one with the short leg underneath, as well as install our hardware. First up flat washer, spring, and then the lock nut. The lock nut will only go on a few threads for now. We'll tighten it up later. Same thing on the other half. Do the same thing for the other U-bolt. Next, we'll go ahead and tighten these up with 3/4" socket. We'll just tighten them up where we'll have just a few threads showing through the bottom. At this point our hitch is fully installed now. We can go ahead and re-install the exhaust back onto its hangers. Put the spare tire back up into place and for us put our tires and wheels back on the axle. That'll finish it for the Hide-A-Goose under bed gooseneck trailer hitch. Part number 9464-35 on this 2006 Dodge Ram Pickup 2500 series.


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