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Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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How to Install a Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500, we'll be having a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Hide-A-Goose Under bed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with custom installation kit, part number 9465-56. Here's what our goose neck looks like installed.We have our spring loaded handle here, which locks our ball into place. We have our spring loaded safety chain loops here, which allow us to attach the safety chains from our trailer. And here's what it looks like in the bed of the truck. You'll notice that this does allow us to maximize our usable bed space, because the gooseneck head itself sits flush with the top of the bed. And our safety chain loops go into the bottom of our bed corrugation.Now inside of the gooseneck head itself you'll see a pin.

This pin is what keeps our ball in place. The pin will go through this hole here on our ball to secure it. We also have this slot here to make it so it's easy for us to install our ball. It only goes in one way. Now what's great about this kit is that we can store our ball upside down inside the head when we're not towing our trailer so we have all of our space readily available on our bed.

And it keeps the ball readily accessible for when we need to tow our trailer again.When the ball's in place, stored, we even have a magnet, which will help keep dirt and debris out and give us a nice finished look. Inserting the ball is a very simple process of operating the handle, which is in the driver side wheel well of the truck. To operate our handle, we'll just pull it out and slide it forward and it will lock in place making it a one person operation to store your ball, or to get your vehicle back into tow position.Once you have the ball inserted, just slide it back, release the handle, and it'll lock into place automatically. Now this gooseneck hitch with it's 2-5/16 inch ball has a capacity of 22,000 pound max gross trailer weight rating, and a 5,500 pound vertical load limit. You want to make sure that you consult with the owner's manual of your Silverado and not exceed what the vehicle's rated for, or what the hitch is rated for itself.

Go by whichever number is lowest.Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed. To begin our install, we've already gone ahead and removed our spare tire so we have a little bit more room to work. Now, we find ourselves in the passenger side wheel well. We need to remove the exhaust heat shield. In order to do that, on top of our frame, we'll find two 13 mm bolts.

This is the easiest way to get to them, with a ratcheting wrench.Now, underneath the truck, our heatshield is held in place with two more bolts. One on the top of our rear cross member, and then another one further up forward on the front cross member. With all of our hardware removed, the heatshield will now slide out, and we can discard it. Now we'll make a mark in the bed of our truck where we need to drill out a pilot hole to make our enlarged hole for the gooseneck ball.We'll make sure that we're taking these measurements from the end of the bed of the truck, not from the end of the tailgate when it's folded down. You can find these measurements in the instructions according to your bed length. Okay, now we'll use our hole saw to enlarge the hole to the size indicated in the instructions.We went ahead and used a vacuum and cleaned up all our mess around the area. The reason we did that, is because now we have exposed metal, and we're going to take some spray paint to clean up the exposed metal to cover it up. This way we don't have to worry about any rust in the future. If you don't have paint that matches the bed of your truck, or if you don't have a spray-in bedliner, you can just use clear coat.Okay, now we need to remove our bed bolts on the passenger side. We have four in total, and they are 18 mm bolt heads. We have one in the very rear on our frame, between the factory hitch and this cutout right here. We have another one further forward, in front of our rear leaf spring hanger. We have another one just behind our front leaf spring hanger. And our final one is in front of the leaf spring hanger.Now on the drier's side, we don't need to remove them all the way, just loosen them a little bit. This is our forward rail, you can tell it's the forward rail because it has multiple holes here on the top, has more holes than the rear rail. This side will face up. This side here, with the two square holes will face towards the front. Our forward rail will slide in front of this cross member in the bed, with an extra set of hands, we'll lift up on the bed of our truck and slide our rails into position.So, our front rail's in position now. Our rear rail is just in front of this cross member for our bed. It'll be right next to the end of it. So, now we'll lift our bed up, and we'll slide it into position. Now, we will install two of our two inch long carriage bolts, in our rear rail through this slotted hole right here. Now, we'll take our center section, make sure that our latch mechanism's on the driver's side. Slide it over our exhaust. Take a conical tooth washer, the teeth will face up. Place that on our bolt head, all by a 5/8 nut. We'll do that on both of our bolts.Here we slide the whole assembly forward a little bit. Now, we'll two of our two inch long carriage bolts, put it through this square hole and the vertical leg of our rear cross members. Slide it back now. Now, we'll take two of our conical tooth washers and our nuts, and we'll put our nuts on the carriage bolts, and we'll just finger tighten these nuts for the time being.Now, we'll slide our front rail over our center section, push this intersection up. And we'll take two of our 2-1/2 inch long carriage bolts, go through the front rail, and the center section. And we'll secure the two together with conical tooth washers and nuts. Now, we'll take our frame bracket, we'll slide the studs from our frame rails into the hole, place on a conical tooth washer and a nut.Now, we'll take our spacer block, slide it between our frame and the frame bracket. Take our pull wire, go through the hole in the block, and then out the whole on the other side of the frame. Now we'll take on of our square hole spacers, stick it on the pull wire, insert that into the frame. We'll thread our carriage bolt onto the pull wire, put that inside the frame. Now we'll pull the bolt through the hole. Okay, we can remove the pull wire now. Place on a conical tooth washer, and then a nut.Now we'll take a pull wire, go through this hole, and there's another hole in the frame right behind it. Take our block, slide it onto the wire, insert it into the whole. Thread on a carriage bolt, and get it through the hole. Remove the pull wire. Place on our conical tooth washer, and thread on our nut. And we'll repeat the same process for the other side.Now we'll use a 15/16 socket and ratchet and we'll snug down our bolts. For some of them we'll need to use a ratcheting wrench. Now we'll torque our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions. Now we'll tighten down our hardware that holds our frame brackets to our frame. And then we'll tighten down the rails to our frame brackets.Now in order to make it easier to get a socket on this bolt here, we're going to take a pair of channel lock pliers, and just slightly bend up our bed flange. And now we'll torque all of our hardware that holds our frame bracket in place, and then our rails to our frame bracket. Now we can reinstall the bolts that hold our bed to the frame on the passenger side, and tighten back up the ones on the driver's side.Okay, now we need to drill pilot holes for our safety chain loops. We'll be drilling through these large slotted holes in the base of our gooseneck head. We're looking at the driver side, the passenger side's the same way. We'll make sure we drill our pilot hole through the center of the lower part of our corrugation. Now we'll do the same for the other side. Now we'll enlarge our holes to the proper side using a step bit.Now just like before, we'll take some spray paint and go through the holes that we drilled. This'll prevent rust. Now, our U-bolt that has the shorter leg goes on the driver side and shorter leg goes toward the front of the truck. Passenger side, it doesn't matter which way it goes, because it's the same length on both sides. Here's a quick tip for you, if you put something heavy across your U-bolts, they won't come up through the bed as you're installing your hardware.Okay, here's where our U-bolts come through underneath. Take one of our flat washers, one of our springs with the small end facing down, and we'll thread on one of our lock nuts. It's the same for all four corners of our springs. Now we'll tighten down our lock nut until about three threads of the U-bolt are sticking out from underneath it. Just like that. And we will repeat the same process for the other corners of our U-bolts.Now we need to install our handle. This end here will go inside this end. And the two holes will line up. And it'll be secured with this pin and clip. So we'll slide this from outside of our frame over the frame, into that hole. Since we're trying to get this clip over a very large object, we may need to tape it in with a hammer.And that completes your look at, and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Hide-A-Goose under bed gooseneck trailer hitch with custom installation kit, part number 9465-56 on this 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500.

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