Draw-Tite Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2013 Ford F-250 and F-350 Sup

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2013 Ford F-250 and


Today on our 2013 Ford F-250 you're going to be taking a look at and I'm going to show you how to install the Draw Tite Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with Installation Kit. This is what our hitch is going to look like when it's installed. What this is good for is it's going to give us total bed access. Our safety chain loops are going to fit in a lower corrugation. Our hitch sits right at bed level, so any time we want to slide anything in and out, we're not going to have to worry about damage.It's going to come with a 2-5/16" ball, and you're going to see a groove here in the side. There's going to be a pin on the inside of the hitch, and little tabs at the very bottom.

That's going to keep your ball from sliding all the way through when you're using it, and when you want to start, you simply flip it over and drop it down in the hole. This is going to eliminate the need for having to take your ball off and store it somewhere, like in the inside of the truck, under the seat, something like that. You may take a chance of losing it.So, when you're ready to use it, simply drop your ball in the upright position. Lock your pin in place, and you're ready to go. Your safety chain loops are going to be spring loaded, so they stay nice and tight against the bed when not in use.

Now, we're going to have a 30,000-pound gross trailer weight, which is the trailer plus the load included, and a 7,500-pound vertical load limit, which is straight up and down on the ball. I do recommend checking the owner's manual of your vehicle to make sure the vehicle can withstand that amount of weight. You're going to go with the lowest number between the vehicle and the hitch.Our center section, our crossmembers that are going to spread from frame rail to frame rail, and our frame brackets are all going to have a nice black powder coat finish that's going to resist any rust or corrosion. Our handle is also going to be spring loaded, and another thing that I really like about this hitch is we can use our handle on either side. We can use it on the driver side or passenger side.As far as our frame brackets, they're going to mount to the outside of our frame rails, and they're going to use existing holes already in the frame.

This hitch is going to come with all of the necessary hardware, and it's not going to require any welding. The only thing we're going to have to drill is right under the top of the bed. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let me show you how to get it installed.To begin your installation, it's going to make it easier if you lower your spare tire. Next, we need to lower our exhaust. We're going to have a 10 millimeter head bolt right here on that front side.

Once you're done removing this one, you're going to have a second one up here on the top. Next, on your driver side right above your tank, you're going to have two lines that come off here. We're going to pull them off the top of this bracket, and then we're going to relocate them.You're going to get a couple zip ties in your kit. What I'm going to try to do is take them off. I'm going to push them down here on the bottom and zip tie them back to the bracket again. We're going to have a crossmember that's going to spread frame to frame. That's going to run right along this, and we don't want to damage these lines. Just take a pair of channel locks or whatever you got to try and push that up in there. It's just a push fastener. Just like that, and we'll have these white ones also. There.Now we'll take these. We'll pull them down underneath like this. Then we'll just zip tie them right back to the bracket again. We just want to make sure they're on the bottom so they don't get damaged. Now we're going to take our crossmembers. We're going to take our 5/8 carriage bolts, and we're going to put them in the top two holes. This is going to go towards the hat channel, and you're going to see square holes. Drop them in like that. For our rear one, two round holes. You're going to see two square holes next to it. I'm going to drop them in the two square holes.Now we're going to install our crossmembers. We're going to start with the rear one. We're going to take the passenger side, and we're going to go up over our frame rail. We're going to maneuver it in like that. You want to make sure the flat side of this is towards your hat channel. Your bolts are on the top side. Slide it back up against your hat channel. Now we're going to take the front. Your front is going to have an extra bracket on it here with two extra holes. This time we're going to go over the fuel tank on the driver side first. That slid all the way up as far as we can go, like that.Now we're going to have two brackets like this that are going to go on the outside of our frame rails. How you can tell them apart is our driver side, this section here is going to be towards the front of the vehicle. You're going to have a flange at the top that's going to sit overtop of the frame rail. We'll take it and we'll slide it on like this. We're going to line up those two slotted holes at the top going through our crossmembers like that. Put on a conical tooth washer and then a nut. Passenger side, you can go ahead and put it on all the way. Driver side, I'm going to make a suggestion.We're going to have a U-bolt. Let's go ahead and sit this up here in place real quick. We're going to have a U-bolt that's got to go around our frame rail. Then it's going out through the bottom and top hole, and we're going around the back side of this. Our fuel tank is sitting right here on this vehicle, so what we're going to do is there's hard lines that run right on the inside of our frame rail right here. We're not going to put our hardware on here. We're actually going to take this and we're going to slide this across from our back so we can get our U-bolt up behind in between our frame and our gas tank, to get it on there first.So, if you look right here, these are two hard lines. What we don't want is we don't want our U-bolt to go around them because we're going to tighten that bolt now. We're going to go right in between because we want to go right up against our frame rail. We're going to slide it up like this. We'll get it turned. Just like that. One thing I do want to mention before we get our bracket on. This bolt right here, there's a plate that runs right down like this for our fuel tank. When you put your U-bolt in, you have to make sure that the top side goes down underneath of it and comes out over here.If you don't, that U-bolt's going to come out over here, and you're not going to be able to hit the hole. So, just make sure when you're feeding it up from the bottom, you get on the back side of that bracket. Now we can slide this in place, and it's going to be easier here on the driver side if you can get the U-bolt in when you slide the front on. Now, for our hardware here, it's going to be the same as the back. We're going to use a conical tooth washer. You want to make sure the teeth are facing towards the hitch or towards the bracket, and then a hex nut.Again, just loosely install it, and then for our U-bolt hardware, a flat washer, lock washer, and then a nut. On our brackets you're going to see a square hole. You're going to take one of your carriage bolts, and you're going to put it right through the hole in the frame. Now, from underneath, we're going to take this large spacer block, and we're going to slide our carriage bolt out just enough that we can get the spacer block in between our frame like that. Then we're going to put on a conical tooth washer, teeth facing towards the frame, and then a nut. Then you're going to repeat that same process on the other side.Next what we need to do, because we had a plastic bed liner, it's going to be easier to take it out. Our plastic bed liners aren't always centered on the bed, so we want to make sure when we drill our hole that it's going to be centered for our Gooseneck. Now that we've pulled it out, we're going to measure from the edge of our bed up per the instructions, and we're just going to put a dot, and I'm just using a paint marker. You can use any type of device that'll mark on metal. Then we need to measure and find our center between our wheel wells. Okay.So, it looks like our factory mark in the bed is going to be our center mark for our Gooseneck or for the hole we're going to be drilling. Now we'll take our 3-1/2" hole saw bit with our drill bit, and we're going to drill through that. What I suggest to keep . because what's going to happen when your teeth start hitting that metal is this is going to kick, and if you're not holding it, it can kick and it can hurt you. So, what we have is we have a board like this made. You just take a piece of plywood, drill the hole in it so this blade will fit in there. It'll keep this blade from moving around.If you take your foot, your right foot, put it up against the handle and hold it. When those teeth start going in, it won't kick the drill. I'm going to take a file and run it around this inside edge just to clean off any of the burs. Then I'm going to take some paint, some Rust-Oleum paint, and spray that bare metal to prevent any rust or corrosion later on. Now we're going to slide our center section into place. We're going to come over the top of our exhaust here. I'm going to let it rest there for just a second.We're going to have to get the hitch in this front one first because we've got to go overtop of this bracket, and if we don't, we're not going to have any room to get it in there. So, see if we can kind of wedge this enough to get that in that hole. There we go. Just like that. Then we'll just line up our other ones. inaudible 00:11:02 the hole like that. I'll get one in here. I'll get one in here. Get our carriage bolts in first. That'll help hold it up in place. Our bolts that we just put in here, they're going to get the conical tooth washer. Again, teeth facing towards the hitch, and then a hex nut. Then we're going to take a flat washer and a lock nut for our bolts coming down from the top.With a 24 millimeter socket, we're going to tighten and torque all of our hardware to our center section first. We're going to tighten that or torque it to the specifications in the instructions. Once you've tightened and torqued all of your center section, then you're going to tighten your brackets to your crossmembers, and then your brackets to your frame, and then your U-bolts. Next, go ahead and reinstall your liner. What we're going to do is we're going to go underneath. We're going to drill a hole up through the center of our Gooseneck hitch. That'll give us the center here. Then we can come up top and we'll make our hole just a little bit bigger than our Gooseneck hitch.Next we're going to drill up for our safety chain loops or rings. It's kind of hard to see here with the camera, but if look right here how the corrugation drops, we want to be in the lower corrugation when we drill up through the bed. The lower part of the corrugation is going to be right here on this side. We're going to be using this slot, and this one right here, and then on this side we're going to be using this slot and this slot. I'm going to drill a pilot hole up first, because remember we have our bed liner. I'm going to try and get it centered here. We need to get a pilot hole in all four holes.Now what I need to do is I need to cut out my bed liner so that my U-bolt safety chain loops will fit down flat up against the bed. You can kind of see how I have it marked here. I'm just going to cut out right on the backside of the hole. I am going to have to make my holes a little bit wider, but I'm going to try and keep my bed cover close to it as much as possible. What I did is I shoved a board in underneath to raise it up so that I don't cut into the bed. I'm just going to use a Dremel tool to cut it. Then we'll do the same thing for this side. It should . Those will fit right down in there.What we'll do is we'll leave it like this. We're going to drill our holes bigger. We might have to modify this just a little bit more, maybe cut it just a little bit bigger, so you can reach down in there and grab it, but we'll worry about that when we get to it. Now we need to open our holes up to at least 9/16. So, you can use a 9/16 drill bit. I'm going to use a step bit because I like to open them up just a little bit bigger to make sure that my U-bolt safety chain loops slide in and out pretty easy. Like that. We're going to do the same thing over on this side. We're going to clean all of our debris out, and then we're going to spray the bare metal with the clear coat again.Now we'll take our flat washer, our spring, and then our lock nut. Then when we tighten them, we want to tighten them until at least we show two to three threads. Now I'm going to install our handle. We're going to start by putting on the rubber grip first. Slide it on just like that. Then we're going to go from the outside of the frame rail, over the top of it like that, and we're going to line up the two holes. Our two holes lined up, then we're going to put in our pin.See here I cut out a little section because my rubber handle was actually hitting this, and it was starting to tear it up. Now you can reinstall your exhaust, reinstall your spare tire, then you're ready to go. That'll do it for a look at and installation on the Draw Tite Hide-A-Goose Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with Installation Kit on our 2013 Ford F-250 Super Duty.


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Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Michael B

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