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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Ram ProMaster 2500

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Ram ProMaster 2500

Hello, neighbors. It's Brad here at etrailer. And today, we're gonna be taking a look and installing a Draw-Tite Class III trailer hitch on a 2016 Ram ProMaster 2500. The ProMasters have become a great option for hauling cargo. And sometimes, that can be even taking the family on a vacation and putting a bike rack or having a trailer to add on to the amount of work that you can do with this. Either way, a hitch is a great way to add some more utility to your already utility van.

Now, you can see here we do have an exposed cross tube on our hitch, so it does stick out a little bit. But this two-inch-by-two-inch receiver tube opening is gonna allow us to use so many different accessories and really get the most out of our van. This is a steel construction, so it's very sturdy. Going along with that sturdy is the black powder coat finish. And that's gonna help prevent against rust and corrosion long term.

It's gonna keep the hitch looking nice. Now, some of the features you're gonna see is this plate-style safety chain loop. It's nice and wide and open, and that's gonna allow you to put large hooks like a clevis style or even your standard pretty easily and have lots of room to work with. Now, also, this is a 5/8 standard hitch pin hole, and that's going to allow you to put your accessories in place and hold them on. Now, your hitch does not include the hitch pin.

If you need one of those, generally, your accessories will come with them. But if not, we have these as well as lockable ones here at etrailer. And that way, you can lock them in place and know that your accessories are gonna stay on your vehicle. Now, this hitch has a gross trailer weight rating of 6,000 pounds, and that's a decent amount. It's gonna be the weight of the trailer plus the accessories loaded up that you're towing.

It also has a tongue weight of 750 pounds, which is the downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube opening. So think about your accessories that you load up that are off the ground. Now, this can be used with weight distribution, and that's gonna bump that up to a gross trailer weight rating of 7,500 pounds. Now, your tongue weight will stay the same at 750. It's important to check your vehicle's owner's manual to see what the vehicle is capable of towing. And between that number and the weight rating on the hitch, take the lower of the two just to stay safe. You can see this tab welded onto the hitch, and that's gonna be four mounting a bracket for your wiring for your trailer. So if you need to tow something, you will need some wiring to send the signals back to your lights. And we do have that here at etrailer, as well as the bolt-on brackets for it. Quick measurements for you. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the furthest point on the rear fascia is about two inches. And as you can see, this sits just about flush. So when loading your accessories, it's important to check to see how far they stick back. Sometimes, they can make contact with the rear fascia. Also, with these doors that swing open, you're gonna wanna make sure that your accessories aren't too high and not hitting your door as you open them. Something else to take in consideration is gonna be your ground clearance. So measuring from the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is 17 inches. And that's a decent amount, so you shouldn't have to worry too much. But when you load accessories that stick out, sometimes going uphills or in rough bumpy situations, it has the potential to bottom out. So keep that in mind when loading your accessories up. Installation of the hitch on the ProMaster is pretty easy, and I'm here to walk you through each of those steps. So now, let's take a look at that installation. We're gonna begin our installation. We're gonna be removing this center rear bumper fascia, and it's pretty easy to do with a T30 Torx bit. And you're gonna see there's four up top, and there's four on the bottom. So go ahead and remove those. When you remove 'em, you're gonna wanna hold onto all this hardware, so you have it when you put this back on. The four on the bottom are gonna be facing up, so go ahead and remove those as well. So now, we're gonna pull this off. Now, there's probably going to be these sensors here plugged in. So don't pull too hard because we will need to detach those. So as you see, pull this down and there's this plug. So go ahead and just pull this tab up and that separates it. So now, we can set our fascia aside. So now, we're gonna remove the bumper support and that's gonna be two 16-millimeter bolts on each side. And there's also a 16-millimeter nut under here. So you're gonna wanna hold onto the nut here as we're gonna reuse that. And in the hardware, we actually have new bolts. So go ahead and remove these. I would suggest leaving one with a few threads on there, just to hold that in place when you go to the other side. That way, this doesn't fall down. So with all the bolts out and the nuts on the bottom off, the bumper hangs on the studs pretty decently, but still leaving those extra ones in there will keep this from falling on you. So now that we have this off, we can actually just set it right down because our hitch is gonna go into place. So with the rear fascia removed, I've gone ahead and raise the vehicle up. Now, in the instructions, they say that you need to lower the spare tire. I don't think you have to, and I'm pretty sure we will be able to get this in place without having to do that. And so we're gonna save ourselves a little bit of a step. Now, another nice feature of this hitch install is this kinda can be done with one person. It's kind of heavy, and if you don't have leverage as far as being up on a lift, it could get a little tricky. So if you need to grab an extra set of hands, by all means, but I'll show you a trick on how to get this in. So raise this and make sure it's in the proper orientation. You're gonna kinda just put it at an angle, and what you're trying to do is get these little brackets to rest on the leaf spring. So once that's in place, it's gonna hold it. It's not gonna drop. And our holes are really gonna just be lining up here. It's gonna go essentially straight up. This plate's gonna sit back here. So as you can see, I can kinda just let that go and it's not gonna go anywhere. So we'll be mounting this back hole into this part of the frame. So above this leaf spring here, you're gonna see the slot in the frame, we have this little nut plate. So we're gonna put this flat side down and kinda line that up here. And we're gonna be feeding our hardware through that as we raise this in place. Now, the hardware we're gonna be using, we have our hex bolt here as well as a conical tooth washer. And the conical tooth washer has teeth on it, so make sure that is facing against the actual hitch when you put it in place. So if you are doing this yourself, I have it kinda rested on my shoulder. You see I have my conical tooth washer set up. I'm gonna kinda just feed this in, pull this back. So it's gonna go into the circular hole, not the square one. So just make sure that it's lined up. And then, go ahead and get a few threads started and that's gonna hold it in place. Sometimes, easier said than done at a certain angle, but we'll get this tightened up. Once we get the other side attached, this is gonna make the rest of the install pretty easy from here. Now, I did find a nice little tip here. I just simply pushed this nut plate there, figure out where I wanna bend it, and that kinda helps me allow to hold this in place. And it also seems like it holds the hole a little bit better, so it's gonna be easier to thread that up. So, I'll go ahead and do this side. Okay, with a few threads on there, that is in place. Before we tighten those bolts all the way up, we don't wanna cinch that up until we run our other hardware. And this can get a little tricky, but we'll be using these pull wires here with the fish wire technique. And so the way we're gonna do this is simply thread this onto the carriage bolt. Now, there's a couple of different sizes of hardware in here, so make sure that you're referring to the instructions and make sure you have the right one. Some of the washers too will only feed certain ways and the spacer blocks are designed for certain bolts. So you're gonna have the smaller ones here and simply, you're going to feed that plate in first. Okay, in fact, we're gonna put our carriage bolt in first here followed by our spacer block. You may have to kinda slide that down a little bit. And then, what you're looking for is being able to pull this through. We're gonna go ahead and do that on this hole as well. Sometimes, these can get a little bound up, so you're gonna wanna kinda just wiggle around. You may need to hold that in place with your finger and just find what works best to get this bolt through. Just wiggling back and forth might allow that to straighten up. I found the best way to get this through is to actually have the bolt kinda facing up. And then, that allows it to drop through. So you're gonna have these wires here. Just make sure they stay there as we're gonna put those in place. Now, before we can do that, we're gonna use our same fish wire technique here to get our bolt and spacer block into place, so go ahead and thread your carriage bolt through. That would sit up there. Now, you can take your spacer block up and get that into place. Give it a couple of wiggles here, and see if you can't get that bolt through. Sometimes, you can get your finger in there and kinda see if you can't mitigate it a little bit for that to line up. So there we go, I was able to pass it through the spacer block a little bit. And then, that just drops through. So now, we have our large spacer block here and you can see it tapers a little bit. That's gonna face towards the actual bumper support. So go ahead and put that in place as well. And then, finally, we're gonna route our wire through the hitch. We're gonna go ahead and repeat that same process on the other side. So now, we're going to feed our top wires through the holes here on the hitch. Now, with that ran through, make sure that your bolts are actually out of the hole. You can kind of raise this in place and pull those through, and it's gonna kinda hold it up in place for us. One, and there's two. So while this is down, before tightening it up, just double check to make sure that tapered edge is facing here. And that way, it's in the correct orientation. It might even help to make a little mark here to know that it's right where you need it to be when tightening it up. So now, very carefully, we're going to remove our fish wire. Now, the trick is to not push this back in the hole 'cause you'll be fishing this out. So you're gonna take your conical tooth washer with the teeth facing up towards the hitch, and you may need to press the hitch up a little bit to allow for those threads to be down. And I push it to the edge and that way, it holds that bolt in place. So go ahead and get a few tightens on there and go ahead and do that on the other side. So now, the same process here. We're going to simply pull the fish wires off. Again, make sure your bolts don't go back. So in fact, I'm gonna put my hand kinda behind that gap just so that doesn't push back in. Same with our conical tooth washer, have it facing towards the hitch, and throw a few hand tightens on there as well. I'm gonna go ahead and tighten up my hardware here with a 19-millimeter. And I'm gonna just kinda zip these up a little bit. They don't have to be cranked down too much because we're gonna go back with a torque wrench and make sure they're at the proper specs. So go ahead and tighten these down. The middle ones will go and tighten down with an 18-millimeter socket. It helps to alternate between them. And that way, you get correct tightness and tension on them. And if you do need them and you're having trouble for them to start spinning, you can kinda pull on them while you tighten, and that carriage bolt will seat up into that spacer block. With these tightened up and everything kinda zipped in place, now, we go back with our torque wrench and torque them to the specifications in the instruction manual. Now, if you don't have a torque wrench, we have these here at etrailer or generally, you can rent them in an auto parts store. But it is an important step to make sure that the bolts aren't too tight or too loose. Now, the smaller bolts in the included hardware do have a different torque setting, so you're gonna wanna make sure to adjust the torque wrench to those in your instruction manual. Okay. Now, these center ones, they can get a little tricky with a torque wrench because an extended deep well socket might not be able to fit in there with the torque wrench. So what I'm doing here is I'm using a crow's foot and this is a 17-millimeter. And that's gonna allow me to attach onto there and still torque down to spec. Now, if you need a set of crow's foot, generally, auto parts store should have this as well, and you might be able to rent them. So now that we have everything torqued down to spec, really all that's left is to put our rear bumper fascia back on. Plug in before you hook that up and you're ready to tow. Make sure that this metal clip is back on here. Well, with these extra tab hanging down, you can either bend these back with a hammer and kinda hit those where they're gonna stay in place. You can cut them off or if you bend them back and forth, you can break them off or you can simply just press 'em up here, and they're gonna hang on the frame rail, and they shouldn't cause any issue. With our rear bumper fascia in place, we're now ready to load this down and hit the road and get to towing. And that was a look and installation of the Draw-Tite Class III trailer hitch on a 2016 Ram ProMaster 2500..

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