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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Ram ProMaster 2500

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Ram ProMaster 2500

Hey everybody, how's it going Today, we're gonna be going over and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver here on a 2017 Ram ProMaster 2500. So, this is what our trailer hitch is gonna look like installed on our van here. Now, we can see, everything is gonna have a nice black powder-coated finish that's gonna help it, protect it, from rust and corrosion, being that it is on the underside of the vehicle and subjected to the elements, that's also gonna help it blend in better with the underbody paneling on our van here for a more clean, hidden-installed look. So, adding a trailer hitch to your ProMaster is a great idea because it's gonna make your vehicle that much more versatile. Now, we can obviously use the trailer hitch for towing. But if you needed to free up some space inside the vehicle, even though we do have quite a bit, if you wanted to store some things outside, such as some gas cans that you don't necessarily want inside the van, or if you wanted to hit the trails, you could easily attach either a bike rack or a hitch-mounted cargo carrier/ box.

So, in regards to towing, our trailer hitch here is gonna provide us with a 6,000-pound gross trailer weight rating. That's the amount we can pull outward on our fully loaded trailer. And also has a 750-pound tongue weight rating, which is the downward force on our receiver tube. Now, keep in mind, these capacities are for the hitch only, which is tested separately of the vehicle. Therefore, you need to verify the vehicle's towing capacity in your owner's manual.

And abide by the lower of the two rated components, whether that's the vehicle or the hitch. So, the trailer hitch is gonna come with the industry standard two-inch by two-inch receiver tube opening. And this is gonna be the most versatile receiver tube opening because it's gonna allow you to choose from the greatest amount of those hitch-mounted accessories that we talked about earlier, whether that be a ball mount, a bike rack, or a cargo carrier. Make sure you check out our selection here at etrailer. So, on the side of the receiver tube, you're gonna see our industry standard 5/8-inch diameter hitch pin hole.

It's gonna work great with the industry standard 5/8-inch diameter hitch pin and clip. Keep in mind, the hitch pin and clip is gonna be sold separately. It doesn't actually come with the trailer hitch. Most of your accessories, however, are gonna come with their own. And in many cases, that hitch pin is specific to that carrier.

And then welded to the bottom of the receiver tube, we have our safety chain loops. Those work great with both the S-style, as well as the larger clevis-style. So, now we've got a couple of measurements for you guys here that are gonna help you when you're selecting your hitch-mounted accessories. So, the first one is the distance from the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening. It's gonna be right at 16 1/4 inches. And that'll be useful when you're selecting your ball mount. That way, you can get the correct rise and drop to tow your trailer level. And then finally, we have the distance from the center of the hitch pin hole to the outside edge of the bumper. That's gonna be right at 2 1/2 inches. And that'll be useful when you're selecting a bike rack and a cargo carrier. That way, you can make sure that while it's in the folded up and stowed position, it doesn't contact any point on the vehicle. So, in regards to installation, this one's pretty simple. It's definitely something you guys can do at home by yourselves with just a few common hand tools and a little bit of mechanical knowledge. Thankfully, we don't have to do any modifying to the vehicle. There's no drilling, cutting, or welding required to install this trailer hitch. We do have to remove this bumper cover here, but it's actually, it's only held on with a couple of screws, so it's pretty easy to do so. We can walk you through this entire process step-by-step now. One thing I do wanna point out is you guys will need a torque wrench for this installation. We have some cost-effective options that you can pick up here at etrailer with your hitch. Or in most cases, you can actually rent these for free from your local auto parts store. So, the first step of our install is we need to lower our spare tire. Now, the tools and the instructions needed to do this are gonna be located under the passenger seat. So, once we've located those and obtained the proper tools, we can begin lowering the spare tire from the vehicle. So, the next thing we're gonna do, we're gonna be loosening some Torx bolts on the bottom of our bumper here. What I recommend doing is taking some spray lubricant and just spraying the backside of those where the nut is. There's gonna be four of these Torx bolts. There's gonna be two on each side in the same locations. So, get them nice and lubed up there. Give some time to let that oils penetrate into those threads there to help loosen it up. Then we're gonna take a T30 Torx bit, and we're gonna remove each of these four Torx screws. So now, if we open up the rear doors, we're gonna have four of those same torque screws up at the top here. So, we'll go ahead and remove each of those as well now. Now, with all of our fasteners removed, we can pull the bumper cover off the vehicle. We do have a wiring harness over here on the passenger's side that we need to unclip. Now, we're gonna take our trailer hitch here and we're gonna set it underneath the vehicle, just rest it on the leaf springs. So, you're gonna have to come over on one side of the leaf spring first. And once you've come in enough, you should be able to get the other side in as well. So, now that we have our trailer hitch roughly into position here, we're gonna take a pry tool. And on the bottom side of the frame, directly below the bumper beam, we have these rubber plugs. We need to go ahead and remove those, just like so. We have one on each side. So, what we need to do next is we need to maneuver the hitch, so that the flanges closest to the bumper are outside the leaf springs that we just had earlier. We had them both sitting on top of the leaf springs. But we actually need to move the hitch towards the rear of the vehicle. So, once you get it set up there, the next thing to do is to maneuver it, so these brackets here are outside the leaf springs. You can see, we have the rear ones sitting on top of the leaf springs. We have these forward ones closest to the bumper, outside of the leaf springs. And the reason we need to do that is our two attachment holes. The front one here is going to be inside that plug that we just removed. We're gonna thread in a spacer block up in there. And then for the rear one, which is gonna be this hole here, we'll show you that here in a second, but we're gonna be using a hex bolt and a nut plate. So, if you've got a friend to help you hold the hitch up, that's certainly gonna help you. We're using a pull jack here to help hold one side into position. You guys are probably working on the ground, so I'm sure just a regular jack stand would actually worked pretty well for you guys. But once we have one side propped up, we're gonna take one of our plates here with a weld nut welded onto there. We're gonna come from the backside of this little channel here, and we're gonna place that over that circular hole there, just directly above this cassette. Then we're gonna take our half-inch hex bolt with a half-inch conical tooth washer. Make sure the teeth are facing up towards the hitch. Now, this part's a little bit tricky 'cause you have to align the hole in the hitch with that circular hole into the frame. And then you also have to align the weld nut up top. And then we'll just begin threading. And now, once we have that one started, we'll do the same thing for the other side. So, the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna be inserting the hardware into the hole here that we removed the plug from earlier. So, we're gonna take our half-inch fish wire, our half-inch spacer block, and then our half-inch carriage bolt. We're going to thread the carriage bolt on. Then we're going to place that up into the frame first towards the front of the vehicle, just like so. And then we are going to slide our spacer block up in there, just barely. And then we're going to pull the carriage bolt through that spacer block and down into the hole. Now, I will level with you guys, this is kinda tricky. There's not a whole lot of room up there. There's a spring perch that's hitting on that bolt there, so you do kind of have to align everything to get it just right. So, just take your time and be patient, and you should be able to get it done. Just like that. And then the next thing we're going to do is we're gonna take this large circle hole spacer here. We're going to place the fish wire through that there. Line it up with the hole at the top of the flange. And then we're gonna take the other end here and stick it through the hole in the top of the hitch. And then we'll line everything up just like that. And now, we're going to push up on the hitch there to insert the bolt through the spacer block in the flange to the hitch. And we'll secure it using the half-inch nut and half-inch serrated washer. So, before we secure those two carriage bolts here, we need to make sure that we get some more hardware inside the body of the vehicle here. So, in the center here, we're gonna have two of these rubber plugs, we need to remove. It's gonna be fairly obvious 'cause they're gonna line up with the two oblong holes on our trailer hitch. So, we're gonna be taking our 7/16-inch fish wire, the 7/16-inch spacer block, and then the same carriage bolt. I'm gonna thread that on. And now, what we're gonna do is we're gonna place the spacer block into that hole or, sorry, the carriage bolt into that hole first. And you wanna kinda go outward to the side here 'cause there's more space behind the metal there. Then we'll slide in the spacer block and now we're gonna pull that bolt through to line up just like that. So, once we get the carriage bolt through this spacer block here, we actually need to go ahead and tuck it back behind the metal there. And take the end of our pull wire and feed it through the hole on the hitch. Just like so. And the next thing we're gonna do is we're actually going to push up here on the hitch, and then pull our spacer bolt, our spacer block and bolt through just like that to hold the hitch in position. Now, we'll come back to either side of the vehicle here for this attachment hole behind the bumper beam flange. And we're going to thread on our conical tooth washer and then our hex nut. And we'll do that on the other side as well. So, now we have the final two bolts here coming out, so we're gonna go ahead and pull that pull wire off there. I recommend sticking a finger on the bolt, so it doesn't jump back into the frame once we get the pull wire off there. And then we're going to carefully thread on and place one of our conical tooth washers over that, and then thread on one of our hex nuts. Again, we wanna be careful that we don't push that bolt back into the body of the vehicle. Now, we'll just simply do that for this other bolt as well. And then we're ready to tighten and torque all of our hardware to the specifications in our instructions. So, for the two bolts on the bottom of the frame, we're gonna be using a 3/4-inch socket to tighten and torque them down. So, for the two bolts here in the center, we're gonna be using an 11/16-inch socket to tighten and torque them down. Now, we need to reinstall our bumper cover here and raise our spare tire back up into position. And that's gonna do it today for our look and installation of the Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver here on our 2017 Ram ProMaster 2500..

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