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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Ram ProMaster 1500

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How to Install a Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Ram ProMaster 1500

Hi there, neighbors. Today in our 2016 Ram ProMaster 1500, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Draw-Tite's Class III two-inch trailer hitch receiver.And this is what our hitch is going to look like when it's installed. You are going to be able to see the cross tube here at the back, but it's tucked up fairly well, so it doesn't detract too much from the look of the vehicle. It's a Class III, two inch by two inch receiver. So it's going to be great for all of your towing needs, whether you need it for a utility trailer at work, or if you're using yours as a camping van, you can load up some gear on the back or bring a boat with you.It uses a five-eighths inch hitch pin and clip. Now one doesn't come included with the hitch, but you can purchase one here at

The small hole, just to the rear of our hitch pin hole allows us to use a J-Pin. A J-Pin is very similar to a hitch pin, except it wraps around pressing tight against whatever's inside your receiver, acting as an anti-rattle device. It features plate style, safety chain loops with a very large opening that should accommodate just about every shape, size, and style of safety chain.What I like about this versus the other options out there is that it has a bracket welded on it for mounting your wiring up. This will just give you a cleaner installation, and it'll be one less thing you have to worry about if you are installing wiring on your vehicle, trying to figure out where you're going to mount it. We've already got our spot.

It features a 750 pound tongue weight. That's the force going down on top of the receiver with 750 pounds. You should easily be able to haul a moderate and large sized trailer.And it also features a 6,000 pound gross towing capacity, which is how much you can pull behind it. It is rated for use with a weight distribution system. When you have a weight distribution system installed, the tongue weight will remain the same at 750 pounds, but the gross towing capacity is going to increase to 7,500 pounds.

As always, you should verify in your vehicle's owner's manual and ensure you don't exceed any of its towing capacities.And now I've got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on accessories. From the center of our hitch pin hole to the edge of the rear bumper, it measures about three inches. This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the bumper. And from the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube, it measures about 15 and a half inches.This is important when determining if you need to drop, rise or raise shank on any of your accessories. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's walk through the installation together so you can have the confidence to do it yourself.We'll begin our installation at the back of the vehicle.

We've already lowered down our spare tire. You're going to need to do this to get the clearance feature hitch up. Once you've got that down and you're underneath, there are four bolts across the back of the bumper that we're going to need to remove. We're going to use a T 30 Torx socket to remove those.We're then going to remove the rubber plugs found at the back of your frame on each side. We're just going to use a flat bladed screwdriver to pry that out. Then at center of the vehicle, you'll find two more plugs that you're going to need to remove as well. For our center holes, we're going to reverse fish wire, our hardware in there. So we'll take the coil wire. This is going to be the smaller coiled wire it's the sister seven 16th hardware. Slide your spacer over the coil, and then thread a seven 16th carriage bolt onto your coiled wire.Then you can slide your bolt in first and slide your spacer in after it. And then we can just pull our bolt back through. If you're having difficulties, getting your hardware to pull back out, if you push it in, try feeding the hardware down towards the outside of the vehicle. There's a little more space inside over there to help it line up properly to pull back through. We'll repeat that for the other hole. We'll then reverse fish wire our hardware at the rear most hole and our side of our frame. We're going to use the larger coiled wires now with the larger half inch carriage bolts. We're going to do it just like we did in the center. We're going to be going up through this hole.And again, we're going to do that on the other side. We'll then take the large spacers that come in our kit. We're going to set it on the rear most attachment. There inaudible 00:04:33 going to use some tape to tape it in place, to make it easier to install it when we're lifting our hitch in place. Cause this has to go between the frame and our hitch.Then you can just take your razor blade or a screwdriver and just poke out the center. So that way your hardware will easily slip through. We'll do the same thing on the other side.Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to lift our hitch into position. May need to go over the leaf spring on one side first, then you can swing the other side in. Then you can pull it back, straighten it out and start lining it up. You'll want to pull your fish wires down through the holes. So we'll have our Side One towards the rear, as well as our two middle ones towards the rear. We may need to push the middle bolts back into the frame real quick, just so you can get it lifted up.Hold on. I'm going to lift it up. Take your fish wire off, place a conical toothed washer on it with the teeth facing up towards the hitch and then thread a nut on the other side. Once you've got one started on each side, the hitch will hold itself up, making it easier to install the rest of your hardware.We'll now install hardware for the front of our hitch towards the front of the vehicle. Take the handle nuts that come in your kit. You're just going to slide it on top of the frame. Just like that. We'll then take the hex head bolts, place, a conical toothed washer on it with the teeth facing away from the head of the bolt. So it'll be towards our hitch and you'll want to lift your hitch up and thread that into your handle nut.We're going to do the same thing on the other side. We can now move to our center bolts. We waited for these until last, because these are the most difficult to prevent from falling back into the frame. So we've taken the club wire off. I'm using a screwdriver on the backside, just to kind of keep some pressure on it so it doesn't fall back in. Same with our other hardware. We're going to slide a conical toothed washer on it with the teeth facing towards the hitch. And then we're going to thread a nut on it.We're going to do that with the other bolts as well. We cannot go back and tighten down all of our hardware. For our frame hardware, we're going to be using a three quarter inch socket and for our center hardware at the back, we're going to be using an 18 millimeter wrench. We can now go back and torque all of our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions.We can now reinstall the bolts that we removed from the bottom of our bumper. And then we'll be all set. Now all you have left to do is reinstall your spare tire. And that completes our installation of Draw-Tite's Class III, two inch trailer hitch receiver on our 2016 Ram ProMaster 1500..

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