Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2016 Acura MDX

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2016 Acura MDX


Today on our 2016 Acura MDX, we are going to be taking a look at installing the Draw-Tite Activator Trailer Brake Controller, part number 5504. In conjunction with that, we are going to be installing the Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controller 7-way RV and 4-way flat, part number ETBC7. In conjunction with that, we are going to be installing the pigtail for Tekonsha and Draw-Tite Brake Controllers, part number 7894, to attach all these together. Now, this braking system is a time delayed system. You can adjust the amount of energy that is going to apply to your trailer brakes and how fast it comes on, all adjustable by your switches on top. It's going to adjust your gain and that's going to adjust the intensity of how fast it will come on as far as how do you like your settings to be. As you apply your brakes, you'll see it climb up and that is going to let you know that it is applying your brakes on your trailer, and you can adjust it up or down to suit your needs.

It also has a manual override, so if you needed to apply the brakes to your trailer for any reason, and not to your vehicle, you can do so in an emergency situation. One reason you might want a controller like this over a proportional one, is this can be mounted in any position, where your proportionals normally have to be mounted in a certain angle for them to operate properly. This one doesn't matter how you mount it, as long as it is mounted up under the vehicle. This is what our ETBC7 kit is going to consist of. Our shielded double wire. A bracket for our 7-way and 4 flat connector, which is going to allow you to plug into your 4 flat that your vehicle already has and add the rest of your circuits for your trailer brake, your 12 volt power supply, and if you need the reverse lights and a ground. Your kit will also come with some zip ties.

There's going to be 3 different circuit breakers included with our kit- a 20, a 30 and a 40 amp depending on your application. Miscellaneous hardware, and it does come with a small test light if you need it. There also will be a piece of loom included if you should have to run your wiring across any sharp edges that you want to keep her protected by. To begin our installation, we are going to go ahead and install our bracket for our 7-way connector. We are going to slide it up onto the screws that are supplied with our kit and we are going to place a flat washer, a star washer and a nut .. We'll run that down.

And we'll repeat that for the other side, then we can tighten this into position with our 8 millimeter socket. Now we can take our plug, we'll slide the wires through the gap from the bottom of our bracket . We are going to take our supplied screws, we're going to place them through. We can install all 4 of our screws locking nuts. Now we will take our flat blade screwdriver and our 9 millimeter socket ...

And we will tighten up our screws. Now we are going to take our 4-way flat that was previously installed on our Acura . We are going to take a little bit of Dielectric 00:03:48 grease available on our website, part number 11755. We'll squeeze some in to help protect against corrosion and we are going to snap these 2 together. Now, just a precautionary measure. I'm going to take a zip tie and go around our plug to ensure it stays connected together. We can trim off our excess and we'll wipe off our excess grease. Our white wire here we are going to need to attach to a body ground. We are going to attach it with our self tapping screw that was supplied. The purple wire on this application we are not going to be using, so we are going to put some tape over the end of it just to keep out any corrosion that could get in there. This purple wire would be used if you are going to have backup lights on your trailer, which we are not going to use. We're just going to bundle it up and we are going to attach it to our harness with some of our supplied zip ties. Our blue and our black wire, we are going to attach to the shielded gray wire that have that we are going to route to the front of our vehicle. Inside of our duplex wire, there is going to be a white and a black. We are going to attach the black to the black and the white to the blue. We'll strip these back about a quarter of an inch and we will take our black wire, we're going to place it in the bud connector, give it a crimp and tug. We'll do the same thing with our white wire. Give those both a nice tug, make sure they're tight. We are going to go ahead and tape up these as well, keep out any corrosion, dirt, moisture. Just going to wrap it all the way down to ensure that our jacket does not get anything inside of it either on our wiring. Now we can tie all of this up out of the way and we are going to route our wire to the front of our car. We ran our duplex wire through some loom clamps that are available on our website. Those are half inch claps, part number A0500. We've got them run along here, following our frame rail. We went up over our rear cross member. Then we started following our brake lines. Pulled this shield down and we just zip tied it to the brake lines all the way to the front. Then we followed our brake lines up the fire wall, right beneath the brake booster and we came out on top. We have one more of our loom clamps up top here as we came up. I've gone ahead and stripped back our sheathing on the outside because our white wire is going to run to the inside of the car, where our black wire is going to go to the 40 amp circuit breaker that is supplied with our kit. We are also going to mount a 20 amp that is going to take power from the battery and go inside the car as well to power our brake controller. I just took a marker and wrote on them, it is stamped on the side how many amps they are, just so we can see them a little better. This is our 20 amp and this is going to be our 40. Now, the side that is going to go to the battery is going to be the gold half, and the other part is going to be what goes to your accessory. We are going to go ahead and mount these right here. And off to the side of that, we are going to mount our 20 amp. Now we have got to remove the plastic trim panels and the air box cover just so you can see what we are doing here. We are going to run this black wire over to this silver half of our 40 amp circuit breaker, and we are going to put our supplied ring loop terminal on the end of there. Then we will take the excess wire and we are going to make a jumper that is going to go from the gold side to our positive battery. Once we figure out our length, we can go ahead and cut that off. We are going to strip it back. We are going to put one of our small ring loop connectors onto the end and we will cramp it in place. Now we will take off the nut and lock washer. Place it on. We are going to install our star washer and our nut. Now we are going to need to make our little jumper wire. It's going to go from the battery side of our circuit breaker and connect to the battery. I'm going to run down underneath here and across. I'm going to cut that piece of wire to the length that I need. We are going to strip off both the ends. On one end, we are going to put a large ring loop connector that is going to go to our battery. We'll crimp that on. On the other, we get a small one. Do the same thing, we'll take off the nut and we will set this into place. Our washer and our nut. Take a 3/8 socket and we'll tighten those down. Make sure you hold the wire so that you can keep it oriented the way you'd like it. We'll route our wire down and keep it in place until we are ready to hook it up. We are going to do the same thing on here, we're going to make a short jumper that's going to come down and follow that, and do the same kind of setup. We're just going to leave these here until we are ready to do our final connection. Now, we are going to need to bring this white wire that came from the back of the car, along with another piece of black and white wire and we are going to use the excess that we cut off from our wire from the back. We are going to route all those into the vehicle. I've gone ahead and stripped back some of the sheathing on the outside of our scrap piece of wire and to the white side I'm going to strip it back. This is going to be our ground that is going to go directly to our battery and go inside the vehicle to the back of our brake controller. We'll be mounting that onto the battery. Then to this side, we are going to put our ring loop onto the other side of our circuit breaker- the 20 amp. We'll take off this 10 millimeter nut, slide on our ring loop connector for our ground, and we will replace it and tighten it back down. Through the inner fender well here, I've run a piece of air tubing and we are going to attach the white wire coming from the back and this gray duplex wire. We'll tape that to the end of our piece of airline tubing and we are going to pull it through. I run the wire down through and I carefully popped out grommet for our door, and I poked a hole in the rubber. We are going to run these wires through that rubber grommet into the vehicle. After I came inside through that rubber grommet, I routed behind our e-brake bracket and brought our two wires. Then we are going to utilize our pigtail for a Tekonsha and Draw-Tite Brake Controllers. I'm going to go ahead all I'm going to cut all these back to the same length. Our single white wire from the back, we are going to strip it back, take one of our yellow bud connectors, place it in the position, cramp it on there. We are going to use that to tie into our blue wire out of our pigtail, which is going to be our brake wire to the back of the vehicle to actually get our brakes. The black wire from the duplex is our power wire from our 20 amp circuit breaker. That's going to go to the black wire coming out of our pigtail to power our brake controller. Our white wire is going to be our ground coming from our battery. Take the white wire from our pigtail and we will plug that in to the white wire going into the duplex. The last thing we did was tie into our brake light switch. So we just went ahead and pulled back our switch and we tested for power when the brake pedal is applied. We just quick connected into that. You can see here on our red wire where that is going up and is tied into our brake light switch. When you step on the brake, it is going to light your test light and that is how you are going to know you've got the right one.We just quick connected it to there, and we plugged it back in. As you can see here, we've tied up all of our wires neatly under the dash, making sure we stayed away from the airbag in tying everything out of the way. Now we'll remove the 12 millimeter nut that is on our positive battery cable. We will take our two power cords, place them in there and we'll replace our nut. Now we can tuck our wires out of the way. Put your cover back down. We can reinstall our air box cover. Now that we have our wiring all run and tied out of the way, we can snap it into our pigtail. You can see when we activate the manual slide switch, the light comes on letting us know that it is operating. Before we mount it . You can either mount it to your vehicle with some screws that are provided. Our customer has chosen to use a hook and loop system. We are just going to attach it to the bottom of our dash with a piece of hook and loop tape. That would make it more of a temporary thing. When you are going to use it, you just snap it into your pigtail and when you are done, you can just peel it off with a hook and loop and place it in the glove box our in your garage. We have our tester plugged in. We'll try applying the brakes, and as we push down higher, you'll see the voltage climb up. That's going to do it for our look at and install of the Draw-Tite Activator Trailer Brake Controller, part number 5504, on our 2016 Acura MDX.


Questions and Comments about this Video

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Greg 07/10/2019

Very detailed, but leaves out perhaps the most important step and part. At 2:41 into the video, he starts connecting the 7 way plug bracket to an adapter under the bumper. Where did this adapter come from, and why cant I find it on etrailer.com? It is absolutely imposssible to proceed further on the installation with out this adapter in place. 57670

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Rachael H 07/16/2019

If you are mentioning the four way flat wiring harness that has yellow, white, green and brown wires our installer indicated that is a 4-way flat that was previously installed on the vehicle. For this it is best to use our fit guide and enter your vehicle information. For this 2016 Acura MDX the 4-way flat that was used was # 118628. I have provided links to this product page, and the fitguide page of T-One wiring for this vehicle for your reference. 50732


Helpful Links

Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Acura/MDX/2016/118628.html?vehicleID=201625250

t1-2016_Acura_MDX.htm



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