Dexter 12" Left Hand Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brakes Installation

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How to Install the Dexter 12" Left Hand Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brakes


Today we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Dexter Axle 12-inch Never Adjust Electric Brake Assembly. For the right side it's part number is 23-465. For the left hand side, it's part number 23-464. Now these are designed to work with axles with up to a 7,000 pound rating. Here's a good look at the brake assembly once we've got it installed on the vehicle. As you can see, we've got one, two, three, four and just behind the spindle is the fifth bolt that's going to hold it on.

That's really all there is to getting this on and off after you've got your hub removed. We'll go over that in just a minute. It's going to give you a 12-inch by 2-inch wide shoe. These are going to expand and they come out to make contact with your drum to give you your braking force. The big thing about these from Dexter is the never adjust system. It's the cable that's going to connect in here, comes over right to an adjuster, so that when you're backing up your trailer, your hub will be rotating rearward.

When this engages through electrical current, this is a magnet that engages on the hub and that's going to operate our brake shoes for us. As it does that, it also pulls our cable here, allowing our adjuster to click up to that next notch. What this does is reduces or virtually eliminates the need to ever have your brake shoes adjusted periodically, so that's going to save you some time and money. Also this is going to optimize your pad life, because they're not overadjusted where they're rubbing too hard, or they're not in so close that they're not making any contact, so it's going to provide us with additional safety and also some cost effectiveness so we won't be replacing the shoes quite so often. When the brakes are applied in the vehicle or manually through your brake controller, you send power to the rear. It charges the magnet here.

It's spring-loaded, so it's always going to make good contact with the drum itself. That engages with the magnetic current, which will then pull or push it, just depending on whether we're going forward or backward. That's going to expand our assembly, giving us the braking power that we want. Now these are connected with 2 wires. We'll have our ground wire and a power wire.

That's going to send the current into the magnet that we need. If you've already got electric brakes on your trailer, the wire should be ran so it's not going to be anything new that you're going to have to add. These will be labeled right hand or left hand assembly. The right hand goes on the passenger side, left hand is going to go over on the driver's side. Then we'll have all your spring hardware, all your shoes and the self-adjuster. It's also already going to be pre-wired, so basically after removing those 5 bolts, we'll pull that off, put our new one on and we'll be ready to start tightening them down as we got out. Now on the rear axle we've left everything just as the trailer rolled in so now we'll go ahead and show you how to install it. First things first, we're going to remove the knock-off cap that goes on the end. This is essentially a grease cap. There's a rubber cap here that allows us to get into our grease inaudible 00:02:40. We just want to get this out of the way using a rubber mallet. We're not going to be reusing it, so if we dent it or ding it up a little bit, it's not really a problem. The new hub that we're going to be putting on comes with a new cap. Now we can take some shop towels and start wiping out some of the grease that's inside of there. Believe it or not, behind all that gunk, there's going to be a cotter pin and a nut that we're going to remove. We'll just get enough out of there so we can just kind of see what's going on. Here you'll see our cotter pin. It's hiding in there. Here's the bottom of it, here's the top. Usually a pair of needle-nose will do a good job of getting this straightened out. You'll want to line those up and then we'll pull down here in the bottom, try to get it to come through. Here you can see the cotter pin that we removed. Most of the time you're going to bend them, twist them, or damage them. We could pop that back out, just kind of tap it with a hammer or flatten it back out. This would be about on the marginal side of salvageable, but you can certainly order a couple here at etrailer. That way if it does happen, you'll have them there and be able to take care of it. Now, here we have the larger hub nut and what we want to do is loosen that up. Once we have that off, we'll hold onto it, because we will be reusing it, as well as the washer that sits right in behind there. Now with those removed, right behind that washer's going to be our outside bearing. We're just going to kind of work this bearing out. Now, we are replacing the hub, so this bearing we're not going to be saving. If you're not replacing the hub, then you're going to want to save your bearings and you can just repack it with grease unless it's got some kind of damage or something to it. This one doesn't want to come out the easy way, so we're just going to kind of start wiggling our drum forward and it's going to try to fall out on the leg there. Now we'll take a second to just kind of clean this up. Here on the bearing, you can see we don't have any pitting in any of the rollers or anything like that. There's no signs of excessive wear like you'll see marring or you might see where metal has been in there. Also you want to look at your grease. Make sure your grease doesn't have any little pieces of metal in it because if it does, it's likely that your bearing at some point is coming out. Those will be a couple of easy ways to kind of look at your bearing and tell if it's got excessive wear, if it should be changed or not. If you do see wear on the bearing itself, the next thing you want to do is look at the race. The race is going to be just inside here. It's a slightly beveled area that runs all the way around our spindle. We'll also look at that surface. If it has any pits, any damage, or any kind of marring or anything like that, then the hub would also be something that you want to replace. Let me go ahead and take this the rest of the way off and let's look at the inside here. Now you can see where we have some grease and some grime that's made it to the inside of our hub. Now, for a standard electric brake replacement, you certainly wouldn't want to put this hub back on. You can see it's got a lot of grease and a lot of grime built up where our magnet's going to stick onto it there, so it's just not going to give us the braking power. We'll have this large seal right here. This would be the seal that you would want to replace. Certainly don't want any grease in our braking system. The hub we're using today is part number 8-201-9UC3-EZ. Now to determine if this is the right hub to use or if we need the one that has the slightly larger seal, we're going to measure right here on the spindle. See our spindle comes back, first bearing, second bearing and then that grease seal goes right around there. Now we're going to use kind of a dial caliper here, bring this in. You can see there that once I get this squared up, it sits right there at 2.1242.125. That means it's 2 1/8 inch. If it we're the 2 1/4 inch, it'd be an eighth inch bigger, and this measurement would be 2.25. It'd be right there, so very minimal difference. It's important to use a caliper if you have one available so we can get it exactly right for you and send out the right seal so it's going to work on your trailer. Now right up here on the back side of the brake assembly itself, we've got 2 wires that run out. Those are the wires that activate our magnet. We're going to go ahead and trim those, just let our excess hang down here until we need it. Now we'll remove the 5 bolts holding that on. Now most situations you're going to have a nut and then a lock nut behind that, I'm sorry, a lock washer behind that. The brake assemblies aren't going to come with new hardware, so you want to hang onto that, both the nut and the lock washer off of each stud. Let me just set those aside for reuse later. Now it's time to just give this a little wiggle and it'll come right off there for us. Now that we've got that out of the way, we can take this opportunity to really clean up the spindle, get all the grease and anything that was on there off. Once we get all that grease off, just inspect your spindle. Cool thing about the assembly is you're only going to be able to put it on there the right way. You see it says right hand. Your 2 lower bolt holes are spaced out enough to where they won't go on in the wrong position, so you just want to get those lined up. Then with those lined up, you'll see the 5 studs come right through that break for us. Then we can take each of our lock washers and slide those back on and we can start putting the nuts on. Then we'll tighten then down. Kind of like a tire, I like to do it in a star pattern. Now, before we slide our drum and our assembly on there, what we're going to do is just pull out on the little silver adjuster here on the rear. Then rotate this clockwise. That's our adjuster. What this is going to do is allow our brake shoes to kind of come in for now. Once we get everything on there, we'll make our initial adjustment, and then we'll never have to worry about that again. You can see our 2 wires that we've got that we're originally on our trailer. We need to get just a little more room with those to work. Just pull that back, trim that off. Then we can strip the ends. Spin the end on each one of those, slide on our butt connectors. Now, these are heat shrink butt connectors, a really good idea if you're doing any wiring outside of the trailer to use heat shrink and then also wrap them up with a little electrical tape when you're done. We do carry these heat shrink butt connectors on our website. You can find details on them there. After we get our connection made there, always push and pull on it and make sure you've got a good bite. The last thing you want's those to come undone while you're heading down the road. All right, looking good there. Now, you can use a heat gun, you can use a little mini torch, or what we've got here is just a regular old lighter. We'll just heat those up and get them to shrink down. Now, if you're going to use a lighter, use the blue part of the flame if you can. It won't put any of that black carbon kind of build-up stuff on there. Now as far as the wiring goes, it doesn't matter too much whether you put the white one on the left side, white one on the right side. We're just looking to pass current through that magnet so it operates. We just want it going in one and coming out the other. It doesn't matter which one. Now we'll take our electrical tape and I'm going to go around that as well, just to kind of give us a little extra vapor barrier here. We don't want any moisture getting in there if we can help it. Now, also with the hub assembly, you're going to have your seals, your bearings, your lug nuts, new dust cap for the end. It's in two separate bags. What I like to do is take this bag and just lay it down on the ground. Then we'll take this bag, just kind of unload it onto that bag. See your dust cap, dust cover and then the lug nuts. I'm going to put those all together. Then here you'll see our 2 bearings. See our smaller one for the outside, our larger one for the inside. It's going to have that center section that stays put while this allows our tire to freely spin. This gives you an idea of what a brand new bearing looks like, what the rollers look like on it, so if you're not doing a hub replacement, you want it to look pretty much like this except it'll have some grease in it. You're going to grab a wad of grease, put it in the palm of our hand, then we're going to pack our bearing. Now, you can use a bearing packer. Sometimes they work great, sometimes they don't. What we're going to do is take the end that has the larger gap in it. It's usually the larger side of the bearing. We'll stick it around our index finger and we're just going to start working grease into that slot and pushing it up through the rollers. Then when properly greased in that area, you see that 1, 2, and 3, those little shoots of grease that have kind of come up through. That's going to let you know that you've got it past all the way through. All right. Now, once we've got that fully packed up, we'll just clean up the excess and that outside bag that we we're setting stuff on, makes a great spot for that to rest. Got the smaller one done, we'll do the bigger one. The bigger one of course is going to hold a little bit more grease than the smaller one did. All right. Now we've got our new hub assembly. We're going to take a handful of our grease here. This is going to go down inside. There's going to be a little gap kind of all the way around the outside. We just want to fill that up, and then any grease that we might have got outside of that hole, let's clean that off. Now if you happen to drop a big wad of grease down in there or something, not a big deal. A little bit of Brakleen can get that off. You don't want to use carbon choke cleaner. That's got a lubricant in it, so keep that in mind. Now our larger bearing is going to sit right down inside, just like that. Then this is the seal. Now, this is the one that's the 2 1/8 inch. Some of these do require 2 1/4. That's where you have to measure. Now if didn't want to wait, if you didn't want to pull one off, measure and wait for your parts to come, you can order the kit, which will have the 2 1/8 inch seal kit in it and then also order a 2 1/4 inch set of seals so you've got your bases covered. Now we're going to set that down with the plastic lip to be facing us. Then we'll just lightly tap all the way around the outside and you'll hear it. It'll kind of change tones right when it starts. Once we hear that change a little bit, that's when we get our block of wood. We go all the way around, just like that, so it's seated firmly and then one more time, go around it to clean it up just like that. Now this is ready to go up onto our brake assembly. We'll just bring that up. You can kind of just bring the spindle right through the center there. It'll go back on. As you can see it's nice and loose. That's why we loosened up that brake kit a little bit. That way this is going to go on there without big issues. Then later we can readjust that out when we get our initial settings done. We've got our smaller bearing we're going to place in there. This is going to be just the reverse of when we took it off, just using the new parts. Then we'll get our washer put back into place and also thread on that nut that we removed. Now we'll tighten that nut down until it stops. We'll hear we've got good contact, it doesn't roll too much, and then we'll line up our cotter pin hole. To do that we're going to back off the nut until it lines up with our hole location. We'll place our cotter pin in and sometimes they'll go in real easily. This one's kind of a curve setup, so this one's going to want to kind of spread out on us some. We'll take our cotter pin, place it in and just kind of tap it into place with the easy lube style that we're using here. It kind of goes in and it turns and it comes down so sometimes it can be kind of a bear to get in there. We'll just kind of take it easy with it. You'll see we'll get it inside the outer rim there and you'll see here at the bottom the 2 legs of that that have come out. Now we'll just take our needle-nose and bend those opposite directions of each other, just like that. Now let's put our dust cap on. It's like we took it off, a little rubber mallet is probably the best thing for the job. Just kind of tap it around the outside and try to get it to go on in there. You kind of hear it there. It's going to change pitch once we've got it all the way and seated in against it. Now we'll take our grease gun, put it right on the grease zerk that goes on the end and start adding some. Now with the easy lube hubs here, we want to add it nice and slow, spin it and try to help it go all the way around. Now you can see here, all the way around the outside, that ring of grease that we've now got there. That wasn't there before, so as we add grease in, it's going to fill up, fill up and fill up. Once it's visible all the way around there, we'll know we've got plenty in there. Now we've got our dust cover that's going to fit in the end of that cap or maybe that dust cap that's going to fit in the end of the dust cover, whichever way you want to say it. We'll just press that in, let it slide in that groove, and now we can put the tire back on. Now if you've got a new hub, like we've done today, you're going to have new lug nuts that'll come with it. If you're just doing the brake replacement, then you won't have the new lug nuts. You'll have to reuse your old ones. All right, now that we've got that on, we can check it out. We're going to hear our brakes. As you can see, it's spinning a little too freely, so we need to make that initial adjustment we talked about and tighten that up some. Now here on the back side, you'll see that we've got 2 oblong holes. We're going to be focusing on the one closest to the rear here, but inside you'll see that yellow spring, and also that silver lever that was on that adjuster. Remember when we had the hub off, we showed that to you. Now what we're going to do is reach in there and we're going to push that wheel away from us so it'll go counter-clockwise and it's going to expand those pads out or those shoes out. We'll adjust it a few times, check our tire. If it still spins too freely, we'll adjust it a little bit more. Yeah, see how that still allows us to spin nice and free, but it's going to stop the tire pretty quickly before it would make a full rotation all the way around. Then you always want to remember when you're done to torque your wheels down to whatever specification the manufacturer of your hub's deemed for you. All right, now with that torqued down, now all you have to do is repeat that same process on the other 3 remaining tires, and everything will be back better than it was when it was new. Now with everything put back together and our wheels back on, that's going to complete today's installation of the Never Adjust Electric Brake Assembly for the left and right hand side. Part number for the left is 23-464, for right, part number is 23-465 on our car-hauling trailer. .


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Info for these parts were:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S

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