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Transmission Cooler Installation - 2011 Honda Odyssey

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How to Install a Transmission Cooler on a 2011 Honda Odyssey


Male: Today in our 2011 Honda Odyssey, we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Derale Series 8000 plate-fin Transmission Cooler Kit, part number D13503. On this Odyssey we've got the transmission cooler installed right behind the fascia here. What this cooler is going to do is help to cool the transmission fluid even more to keep lower operating temperatures for the transmission even when towing or hauling heavy loads up a hill. The reason that you want lower transmission temperatures is because that's going to help to prolong the life of the transmission and those internals that wear down. It's going to take them longer to do that because they don't get as hot. Now, let's show you how to install this cooler. Here's everything that's going to come with the kit. You've got the cooler, then you've got your hose that you'll use to connect to it. Then here you've got a fitting to link your hoses, 4 hose clamps.

Then here you've got the hardware with the rods and clips and pads that you'll need to secure your cooler to your condenser or radiator. We're going to need to remove the front fascia off the vehicle to give ourselves plenty of room to work. We'll need to start up top underneath the hood here, and begin removing these push pin fasteners. You can get under them with a flat-head screwdriver and pry upwards so you get the center out, and then the body of it should pop right out. With all those push pin fasteners removed we can lift up our air dam here, and remove this top cover. Now on each fender well there'll be 2 screws that we'll need to remove using a Philips head screwdriver. Now we'll need to remove the splash guard underneath. It's going to be more of those same style push pin fasteners.

You can use a flat-head screwdriver to work out. They're a little sticky, just work your way around it. Along the front here. There's one more in the same position on the other side. Then there will be some 10 millimeter bolts that we'll need to remove.

We'll remove that splash guard and set it off to the side. Now we'll need to remove this pushpin fastener and 2, 10 millimeter bolts that are on both sides. Now the last step before taking our fascia off is going to be, we need to take these 2 bolts out that are up top. There's one in the same location on either side. We need a 10 millimeter socket in order to take them out. Now, it's a good idea to grab a second set of hands to help you with removing the fascia. You'll need to start at the corner where it meets the fender here, and just begin pulling outwards to release the clips that hold it in place and just work around the front, and you pop it off. Then, as you remove it there's going to be 2 connectors on each side.

You need to squeeze on the tab, pop the connectors off the both of those. Then we can take our fascia and gently set it off to the side. Now before we mount the cooler, it's a good idea to find the transmission cooler lines, and identify which one is the return line, and that's the one that's going to be cooler to the touch after it's been running for a few minutes. On this one I've identified it to be this hose right here. That's the one I'm going to be tapping into in order to hook up the new Derale cooler. Based on the location of the return line that I'll need to use, I'm going to mount my cooler right up in this area, because that's going to give a good airflow behind the grill to where it shouldn't really be blocked, and putting it on the front here is going to give us the best airflow, so it's going to give us the best results and effectiveness of our cooler. Now we'll take the hose that comes with our kit and install it on either barb, and that way it'll make a loop, and then we can cut it to the length that we'll need for each side of our cooler. In order to help with sliding this on if needed, you can put a little bit of transmission fluid onto the end of it to help you slide it on. You want to make sure you get it far enough on to that barb that you'll be able to get it over the little taper there, so you can get a good clamp on it. Now with the AC condenser here in the front, I'm going to take the 10 millimeter bolt out that's on the bracket here that holds it up tight. That way we can pull it out and get a little bit more room to work in order to mount our cooler. Now I'm going to cut out a small section of this trim piece that helps guide the air in over here, just in order to route our hoses through, to behind our condenser and radiator. Now we'll take our cooler and mount it to our condenser where we want it. Now I'll be able to mount our cooler up, and as we mount our cooler, we'll need to take our mounting rods. On each one we'll need to put one of our foam pads. Just slide that over, and then we can get it started through our condenser there, and you just want to be careful as you do that. We'll do the same thing for all 4 mounting rods with foam pads. With my top 2 through there, what I'm going to do is take one of my clips on the back side, and you want the little teeth to be in towards the back of the condenser, then you slide it over there. Then you begin to work the mounting rod through. I'm not going to put it all the way tight yet, but far enough in to hold it, for both of these, so that way I can start the 2 that will be on the bottom. Once I've got all 4 of those started, I'll tighten them down the rest of the way. You don't need to have them real tight, but you definitely want them tight enough that they're not going to let this cooler move around. Once we've got our cooler tightened down in our mounting rods all the way through, we can clip off the excess of those mounting rods. Now we can put our condenser back into place and put those brackets that hold it there back in. Now I've got my hose cut in order to route it behind the radiator and condenser, but now is a good time to slide the hose clamps on, and tighten them down on to the barbs on our cooler. I took the hoses coming off of our cooler and routed them through that gap that I cut in the air dam over here on the side, and routed them behind the condenser and radiator. They'll come out right up here where I'll be able to get ready to start making my connections. I'm going to take this clamp off in order to take the hose off of this section of line right there. I use a pair of pliers and just squeeze the tabs together. To help you get that off, you can also use a large flat-head screwdriver, or small pry bar. Once you get this hose off, you will probably have a little bit of transmission fluid come out. I'm going to take this clamp all the way off. I'm going to replace it with one of the screw-style clamps that comes with the kit. Now I'll take this adapter and insert it into the end of the hose here. I'll send that up until we've got about an even distance on either side of that fitting. Then I'll pull that clamp up, then I can tighten it down onto it. Then I'll install my other clamp and slide it up onto the shorter hose. Then I'll take this hose and turn it back towards that shorter hose, and then I'll install the other end of that fitting into the shorter hose that I routed to the back here. Then I can tighten down that screw clamp to make sure that that hose is secured to the fit. Now with the longer hose that I brought to the back side here, I'm going to feed it right behind that between that fitting and the back of the radiator there. Then I'll slide the hose clamp on. I'm going to take it and push the hose onto that fitting, and you want to make sure it's far on up on there that you'll be able to properly clamp it down. With the hoses all hooked up for our cooler, we went head and started it up to make sure that there we're no leaks, and since there weren't any leaks we're ready to begin reinstalling our fascia. As you put it back, you want to be sure to reinstall the electrical connectors that you took off as you took the fascia off. Get it back into place in order to reengage those clips. Now begin reinstalling all our hardware that secures our fascia to the vehicle. Finally, once the fascia is all reattached, you'll need to be sure to check the fluid level on the vehicle to make sure that it's completely full, and if it needs to be topped off, you want to make sure to top that off with the correct fluid for your vehicle. That's going to complete our look at, and installation of the Derale Series 8000 plate-fin Transmission Cooler Kit, part number D13503, on our 2011 Honda Odyssey.


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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video by:
Andrew K
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
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Jacob T
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Kathleen M
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Mike H
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Dustin K
Test Fit:
Alan C
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Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
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Zach D
Test Fit:
Brent H
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David F
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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