Derale Dyno-Cool Transmission Cooler Kit Installation - 2008 Honda Odyssey

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How to Install the Derale Dyno-Cool Transmission Cooler Kit on a 2008 Honda Odyssey


Today on our 2008 Honda Odyssey we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Derali Dyna-Cool Tube Fin Transmission Cooler kit, part number D12902. What this cooler does is it's designed to help the existing cooler that's on the vehicle in order to keep the transmission temperatures down, so whether you're looking for something to help prolong the life of your transmission or if you're looking for something to keep those temperatures cool when you're hauling something behind the vehicle, this is going to do a really good job of helping with that. As you can see, it doesn't add a whole lot to the front of the existing coolers on the vehicle. With the aluminum that it's made of, it gives it a nice finish. If you're able to see it, it definitely still gives it a nice clean look. Our customers really seems to like this cooler because they say it does a good job of keeping the transmission temperatures down, and it's also fairly easy to install. Here's where it hooks up into the existing cooler. We took the return line off, the one going back to the transmission, then we connected a hose from the cooler to send that already cooled transmission fluid coming out of the factory cooler up into the new Derale cooler to cool it down even further before sending it back through that return line into the transmission. Let's go ahead and show you how to install it.

First thing we'll need to do is we're going to need to give ourselves some more room to work so that we can get down here to the front of the radiator condenser. In order to do that we want to take this front clip off. We'll start by removing all these push pins that we see up top here. You can take a flat head screwdriver, just get under it there, pop the center of it out. You should be able to pop them out there.

We'll do that with all of them that are across the top of this plastic cover here. On both sides here we're going to have one of these. This is another one. You just pull the center portion up, and you're probably going to need to use a flat head screwdriver to do that. Pop the center of it out and it should pull up. On either side we're going to have one Phillips head screw right here, so take that out.

Again, on either side, right down here at the corner of the fender where the wheel well meets it, we've got a little push pin that you'll want to pop the center out of. We've got six more, the same style fasteners, right along the front here on the underside. Underneath on this little under body panel we've gt four fasteners on each side. We've got two here, one over here, and one right here at the edge of the wheel well. Those all come out the same style, you pop the center out and then the rest of it will come out as well. If you've got some that are being particularly pesky you can take a pair of side cutters like this, slide them up on either side, and pull the center out like that.

We'll do the same thing for the four on the other side. Once we've got all the fasteners underneath here removed, we can take this out. You may just have to pry at either wheel well a little bit in order to free it up, and we'll be able to take that and set it off to the side. Now that you've got everything on the front fascia here undone and unclipped, we'll be able to begin removing it. You'll want to start over here at the sides by puling outward. We've got some tabs there that hold it in place. You want to be sure to do that same thing on both sides, and then the front we'll pop out from right underneath the headlights there. We'll just leave this sitting up in place right now, and we'll go get the other side loose. You can set that front fascia off to the side. Now that we've got our front fascia off, what we'll need to do it we're going to need to determine which of these two cooler lines here is going to be the one that's the return line. The way that we're going to do that is we're going to need to start the vehicle up and we'll need to brake torque it, which is putting it in gear and keeping one foot on the brake pedal and putting one foot on the gas in order to rev it up. That will get the fluid circulating and let the transmission warm up, then we'll be able to tell which is the return line on the cooler side of the factory transmission cooler. I've determined the return line to be that line right there, because it was a little bit cooler once we got that up to temperature. I'm going to take a little paint marker and put a little mark on it, just n case I forget. That way I know it's that line. The first thing that we'll want to do is we'll want to determine the location that we want to mount our new transmission cooler. When you decide on a mounting location a couple tings you want to think about is, one, where is going to be a good point that my hoses are going to have access to go around to access the factory cooler hoses You also want to think about where is this cooler going to be able to get the most direct airflow coming through the front fascia If you can, you'll definitely want to put it behind some sort of grill on that fascia. Ideally you'll put it on the very front here, but if you dot have room you can tuck it in between the condenser and radiator, or any other type of cooler that you may have in here. The more coolers that you put it behind. The less efficient this one's going to be. With this one, I'm going to put it right up here, and that's going to give me good access to the grill just to the side of the Honda emblem. In order to start mounting that up and giving myself more room to work, I'm going to let the top of this condenser hang out. In order to do that I'm going to take out the 10mm bolt that's on this mounting bracket on either side. Now the top of this condenser, you'll be able to pull it out a little bit to have better access to the back down there. Before we actually install the cooler onto the condenser there, I'm going to put a little bit of lubrication on here so I can slide one end of my hose onto it. You'll want to make sure that you get enough of this hose past the barb that's on the fitting so that you can get a clamp. I'm going and try to get this down a little bit further to make sure I've got plenty of room for a clamp there. I can go to the other end of my hose, slide a hose clamp into place. I can take a flat head screwdriver or quarter inch socket or nut driver and begin to tighten that clamp down. Keep in mind, these clamps don't need to be super tight, but you definitely want to make sure they're tight and not going to go anywhere. If you do put these too tight it is possible for them to break if they get hot and get enough pressure behind them. Looks good right about there. Before we put our cooler up into place, we'll take our tie down strips and we'll slide them through the four mounting holes that we're going to use. Once we've done that we can take these little pads with one sticky side on the back. Peel that sticky side off and slide each one onto our tie downs. What this is going to do is give us a nice gentle mounting point against the cooler behind it. I'll do the same thing for all four of these. Now I'll be able to slide this up into place. You want to be sure to be gentle going through the fins here, to not accidentally damage anything. We'll get it situated into place there. We'll be able to pull out on the top here and work those the rest of the way through. Now you want to take the mounting clips provided in the kit, and here on this side we've got the Derale name, and on the other side it's blank, you've just go these little nibs here. We want that to be facing out away from where we're sliding onto our mounting rods here. On each one we'll slide it over the end, and then it will clip down and zip through. We just want to pull it through there. You want to be fairly gentle with it because you don't want to pull too hard and possibly risk damaging something. We'll repeat that for the other three. Once we've got all four of them installed and tight, and the cooler is nice and secure, come back and any excess that's here on the backside, we can just clip off. We'll do the same thing on all four of them. Now that we've got this hooked up here we can take our little mounting brackets for our condenser and we can reinstall both 10mm bolts. Now the hose that I've got connected up here I can begin to route down toward where those cooler hoses are. When you route this you want to be sure that you don't have any tight kinks in the line or anything because that can cause a lack of fluid flow to the transmission and potentially damage the transmission if you're not careful. Before I get going messing with the cooler hoses that are attached to the vehicle currently you want to get these two clips up here lose so that then you've got a little bit more room to work and pliability in that hose. I'm going to come back to that transmission cooler line that I marked earlier with the paint marker. I'm going to take this clamp and move it up so that I can take that transmission line off. It might be useful to have a flat head screwdriver in order to help pry it up off of there. You want to make sure to have a drip pan to catch anything that might come out. Now that we've got that hanging down there we'll be able to take our hose coming down from the cooler. We'll be able to get about the length that we need in order to come across and hook up onto that connection right there. We can cut about the length we'll need using some hose cutters. We can grab one of our hose clamps, and once we've got our hose routed over to where we need it to be we can slide that hose clamp on there, and then push our hose down onto the fitting. Once it's down far enough over that bar you can begin tightening it down. Again, making sure that's nice and tight, but not too tight. Now I'll take this fitting here, I'm going to take a little bit of transmission fluid, spread it around on there. I'll get a little bit on the inside of the new hose that I'm going to be sliding over it, and then I'll slide it onto that fitting. I can take one of my hose clamps and clamp it on right there. Get that nice and secure. Now I can take the other end of this and I'll be able to install it into the hose that we pulled off the cooler line. Slide that one, and then we can replace our clamp. You want to make sure to get them past the barb that's on the end of that and clamp it down. With this factory spring clamp I can kind of move the hose on here. I don't really like that, so I want to be sure that it's not going to leak. I'm going to move this clamp back up the hose, and then I'm going to install one extra hose clamp, which if you'd like to pick one up you can get one on our site. I'm going to be able to install it right there, and that's going to make me feel a little bit better and help insure that we're not going to have a leak when we're all done and start the car up. Now that I've got my connection made here, what I'm going to do is I'm going to take this cooler line and send it back up, so then I can hook this hose up to the other end of the new transmission cooler. Now I can take the remaining hose and cut it to the length that I'll need. Again, making sure that I don't have any tight bends or kinks in it. Here again I'll take a little bit of transmission fluid, spread it around the inside of the tube there, and get a little bit on the barb fitting. I'll be sliding that on too. Before we connect it we'll want to be sure to slide a hose clamp down over it. We can slowly work it on there. Once we've got it far enough over that barb on the fitting that you'll be able to fit the hose clamp with a little bit of hose coming out on the other side, we'll go ahead and put it up into place and begin to tighten it down. Now that all our hoses are hooked back up we can lower it down and start it up to check for leaks. Now we can take our fascia and begin to put it back up into place. No we can reinstall the rest of our under body paneling. That's going to complete our look at the Derale Dyna-Cool Tube Fin Transmission Cooler kit, part number D12902 on our 2008 Honda Odyssey.


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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S

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