Demco Tabless Base Plate Kit Installation - 2014 Ford Edge

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How to Install the Demco Tabless Base Plate Kit on a 2014 Ford Edge

Shane: Hi, I'm Shane with Today we're gonna be taking a look at, and I'm gonna show you how to install, Demco's Tabless and Base Plate Kit on our 2014 Ford Edge.There are five main components to a flat tow setup: your base plate, your wiring, your tow bar, your safety cables, and your braking system.What our base plate is gonna do for us is it's gonna be a solid connection point between our tow bar and our towed vehicle. You can see with our fascia removed, our base plate is going to attach directly to the chasse of the vehicle to give us that solid anchor point for our tow bar.You can see when not in use it maintains a nice, clean look on the front of the vehicle. We're gonna have our safety chain looped here, which they're not gonna stick out too far. Again, maintains that nice, clean look. We don't have a lot of protruding items or anything like that sticking out of the front of the vehicle.

Putting this base plate on is gonna require a little bit of fascia trimming, and it will require you to remove the fascia.It is gonna have a nice, black powder coat finish. It's kind of a dimpled finish, kinda keeps a rugged look but it does look like a very durable finish on it. And this is gonna be a tabless design, and what that means is these tabs on a lot of base plates, this tab will actually slide in like this, and it'll turn. But the other types of tabs will actually, you'll disconnect your tow bar. Then you'll have to find somewhere to store these when you're not using them.With this, these will actually bolt on to your tow bar.

When you're ready to use it, you put it in, you twist them just like that, then you put a pin in it. When not using them, they stay on your tow bar. You don't have to worry about storing them, you don't have to worry about misplacement.Another really nice feature that I like about this base plate is when not in use, we're gonna have caps that will cover our holes to keep any dirt and debris from collecting in there. And they just snap right into place.Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get installed. We need to start by removing our fascia.

We're gonna have four classic fasteners and two 10 millimeter head bolts we need to remove. Our plastic pin fasteners are run right across this front plastic piece, and then our two bolts are right here. And these are just plastic, so you don't have to put any pressure on them. Just wanna make sure you get this bottom part out too. Once you have the center out like this, it's easy if you just pull up like this, and it'll come out just like that.In each wheel well, we're gonna have three 5.5 millimeter head bolts we need to remove.

Now your instructions are gonna tell you three pushpin fasteners you're gonna have to remove from underneath the vehicle, which are gonna be these three here. But actually, you're gonna have one on each side for your mudflap where your front fascia actually hooks into your mudflap. You're gonna have to remove one of those on each side too, so technically you're gonna have five. So technically you're gonna have five.So remove three of these. You just do it with a flathead screwdriver. You can get the center pried out there, take a trim panel tool. Pull out the base just like that, and this one here on the very lower front part of your fender liner, or in front of your tire. Again, you'll have one of these on each side.And we're gonna have a couple of 5.5 millimeter head bolts on each side we need to remove. First, we're gonna remove this one, and this one, just like that. And you're gonna remove those same two on the other side of the vehicle. We need to unhook our fog lights. If you clipped this black plug here, we're just gonna push in on this backside right there. It's gonna push in and pull out. You're gonna do that same thing on the other side.With an extra set of hands we're gonna remove our fascia, and we're gonna start on the very outside of our fender where our fender meets our front fascia, and we're gonna start to pull out, work our way to the center. And remember when pulling this off, don't just pull it off, because if there's any additional wiring or anything in there that needs to be unplugged, you don't wanna mess up the plugs. Once you get it off, you're just gonna set it aside in a safe place for now.And we're gonna remove our bumper core. We're gonna have one bolt here, 10 millimeter bolt, or 10 millimeter head bolt. You're gonna have two 13 millimeter head bolts here, and you're gonna have a 13 millimeter head nut down here on the bottom. We're gonna have that same hardware on each side. Then we're gonna have a 10 millimeter head nut right down here on the bottom. Then we'll remove our bumper core and we'll set it aside.Driver side, you're gonna have a bracket in your kit that looks like this, it's gonna say driver side on it. You're gonna need two inch and a half by 7/16 bolts, lock washer and flat washer. You're gonna get some blue Loctite in your kit, it's a little tube, gonna look like this, and make sure you use this on all of your hardware that you're installing.We're gonna take this bracket, and you see how it's kinda notched out there It's gonna be facing down like this, and you're gonna have a small nut plate, and a long one for each side. We're actually gonna do the backside first. We're gonna go through this hole.On our passenger side, we're gonna have two nuts. We're gonna have one here, and we're gonna have one on our backside of our washer reservoir, washer valve reservoir that we need to remove so we can get our bracket in against our frame rail. 10 millimeter socket will remove those.Now, if you remember on our driver side, we had a hole back here that we needed to get to. I'm not able to get my washer bottle out of the way enough just by loosening these two nuts or taking them off, so up here on top we're gonna have an eight millimeter head bolt that threads through this container into our washer reservoir. I went ahead and removed that. Now I'm gonna take . and I should have a little bit more play with my washer reservoir to give me enough room that I can get back there and get that bolt put in.Then we'll take a 5/8 socket, we're gonna tighten and then torque our bolts for our side brackets or frame brackets on the sides. We're gonna do that on both sides.In your kit, you're gonna have six washers. We're gonna use them as spacers to space out the backside of our washer bottle so it doesn't rub on the bolts. Three on each post, actually its still touching the bolt so I'm gonna add an extra one on each post. It's completely up to you. I just wanna make sure that the bolt doesn't rub a hole in the backside of the reservoir.Next, take your base plate and we're gonna set it up against our frame rail. You're gonna clamp it into place like this on each side. Good idea to have an extra set of hands to do this, 'cause our base plate's kinda heavy. We're gonna be drilling out this hole, and putting a self-tapping bolt in it.Because it's heavy, what I suggest doing is the bolt that we took out on the bottom from our bumper beam, I went ahead and reinstalled that just for now to get my base plate to pull up against the bottom of my frame rail as much as possible. Once I got it tightened up to the bottom of my frame rail, then I clamped it back into place so we're tight this way and this way. Now we can drill this hole out.Using a 5/16 drill bit, we're gonna drill a hole right through our frame rail. Make it a little bit easier for yourself, you take drill bit that'll just fit inside of this hole, and use it to make a mark because your drill bit, your 5/16, is actually smaller than that hole. Use a drill bit just the right size and actually make a little dimple there and that'll keep your drill bit from bouncing around inside that hole.We're gonna take our 3/8 self-tapping screw, you'll know it's a self-tapping screw, it's gonna have a little notch in it like that. 9/16 socket. Tighten that into place. Again, make sure you're using Loctite on all your hardware. Then you're gonna repeat that process on the other side, and then you can remove your clamps.Before reinstalling our bumper core, our lower tab, which is gonna be this single one, we're gonna . you can either bend it up or you can cut it off. I'm just gonna cut mine off so that I know that it's flush with this edge. That means you're gonna use a cutting wheel, and you're gonna do that same thing on the other side.Once you get your lower tabs cut off your bumper beam, then you can reinstall it. We're gonna use the same two bolts that we took out on the top on each side. One thing to keep in mind: the bolt here, and the bolt down below it, are not gonna line up. What you wanna make sure of is this plate up here with these two bolts is sitting flat on top of the frame rail. If it's not sitting flat, where you cut the tab off on the bottom, you're gonna have to cut that down some more. Because what it's doing is it's sitting on the base plate, and that base plate is pushing it up. You wanna make sure that this is sitting flat when you reinstall the bolts.Once you get those installed, go ahead and tighten them down. If this for some reason is not lining up, this whole section radiator you can lift it, and you can put that bolt back in.Now we've reinstalled our bumper beam. We need to drill through our bumper beam, through our base plate, to this bracket that we mounted on the side of our frame rail. If you remember there's two holes in it. We need to be able to run a bolt through here to hold all this together. We're gonna have to drill from here all the way through.Per our instructions, we need to measure down an inch, in a half inch. From there, down two and 5/8, then again in a half inch. Now, what I suggest doing is looking at your holes on your bracket right here, and see if you can't . make sure they're gonna line up, and make any adjustment necessary, whether up a sixteenth of an inch or down, 'cause what you don't wanna do is when you start going in, you don't want this hole, when you start hitting here, to go down or up. 'Cause then you're gonna have to wall out this hole, and your heavier bolt is actually gonna sit in here and not out there. So, try and get that as straight as possible.Some of these bumpers can be hardened steel. It might take a little bit to get through them. If you don't lubricate it, what happens is your drill bit overheats, and you can end up breaking it or it really strips it off bad where it's not any good anymore. So, just try to keep that lubricated as much as possible. Even if you have to have somebody stand here and spray it every once in awhile, it might be good.So now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna open this outside hole just a little bit, 'cause it looks like I might be just a little bit high on this inside hole. I'm gonna open this up, so that I can get my drill bit and kinda go down a little bit more. If I try to go down now, what's gonna happen is my drill bit's gonna bend, and you can take a chance of breaking it.So, again, this outside hole here we're not gonna be using, we're just using it to get our hole drilled in here. The reason why we don't just cut it out is because inside our bumper there's a flange that's welded right here, and if we cut that out, then you're losing support on the bumper. So alls we need to do is a hole.Now we'll take our 3/8 hex bolt, 3/8 lock washer, and 3/8 nut. I'd suggest cleaning it out, just so you don't get any on your threads. Again, make sure you're using the blue Loctite that comes in the kit. We're gonna go from here through, put on our lock washer, and then our nut, and then we're gonna tighten and torque that to the specifications in the instructions, and then we can drill our next hole.Once you're done putting your two bolts in on each side of our bumper beam, we're gonna have two more on the bottom. Again, it's gonna be a 3/8 hole; I'm gonna start with a pilot hole, and try and get it as centered as possible on there. It will make it go a little bit quicker rather than going straight to the big drill bit. If you use a small one, do a pilot hole first.We're gonna take our 3/8 bolt, we're gonna go up. We're gonna put on a lock washer, and then a nut. And then again, we're gonna tighten and then torque that to the specifications in the instructions. Again, don't forget to use your blue Loctite. Then you're gonna repeat that same thing for this hole here.Then you need to put on your safety cables. With this vehicle it's a little bit difficult to find somewhere to go around. On our driver side we we're able to go around our support beam that runs across right behind our radiator. You can see I went around the faceplate, and went through, and then wrapped around my support beam, and then used my two rings here.Passenger side is gonna be a little bit different. Passenger side, we can't go around our support beam because we have a pulley that sits right there. So what we did is around my base plate, I went through and wrapped around my body mount here. I took one ring, wrapped around both cables, passed the one through it, and tied it to the next one. This ring is tied to loop on the one that comes around this way, and I just zip tied them in place so they don't rattle.Now our last step to installing our base plate is to trim and reinstall our fascia, but before doing that it's a good idea if you're adding any wiring or braking system to do that before installing your fascia. It's gonna make it much easier to run all your wires down to the front of the vehicle.That'll do it for a look at and installation on the Demco Tabless Base Plate Kit on our 2014 Ford Edge.

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Video Edited:
Jacob T
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Michael B

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