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Demco Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System Installation - 2018 Jeep JL Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install a Demco Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System on a 2018 Jeep JL Wrangler Unli

Hey, everybody! Today we're gonna be going over and showing you how to install the Demco Stay-in-Play braking system here on our 2018 Jeep Wrangler unlimited. So nearly every state nowadays requires a towed vehicle. Over a certain amount requires a supplemental braking system. Our Jeep here is going to exceed that weight in pretty much all States. So in order to remain legal while you're towing your vehicle, you're going to need a supplemental braking system. To stay in play Duo is one of our personal favorite supplemental braking systems here at E-trailer, both from an ease of use side a performance side, and an ease of installation side.

So it's definitely one of our favorite ones. We're going to go over now, why we think it's the best. So the state in play is going to be a proportional braking system. And what that means is the brakes here in our toad are going to be applied in an amount proportional to that in our towing vehicle. Therefore, if we really slam on the brakes in our motor home we're going to get a lot of braking force being sent to the brakes here on our vehicle, as opposed to us just barely pressing the brakes on our motor home.

We're not going to get a lot of force into the brakes here. So we don't have to worry about locking up our brakes or anything like that. So the Stay-In-Play isn't the only supplemental braking system out there. There are several from other manufacturers. So we talked about the Stay-in-Play being the best.

Now, one thing it does really well is it sort of has a permanent install rather. So there are a couple of different types of installations for braking systems. You may be familiar with the portable systems which are something you have to take in and out of the vehicle each time. It's basically a box that sits in the driver foot well and presses up against the brake pedal. They use wireless signal.

They're super easy to install but it's something that you're going to have to take out put in and and do adjust each time you get inside the vehicle. And you want to tell it, whereas with the Stay-in-Play here, whenever we're ready to tow we're simply just going to flip a switch we have mounted inside the vehicle, and there, we're ready. We don't need to do any adjustments; installing- it's just a simple flip of the switch. So we talked about comparison to some of the other portable systems. Now let's talk a little bit more about comparison to comparing some of the actual permanent systems that compete with this, here. There's a couple of other ones out in the market, but again the reason we like to stay in place is because it's so much easier to install even more so than the other permanent systems. Now, the reason for this is pretty much everything is going to be done here on the towed vehicle side. We're actually not making too many modifications. Some of the other braking systems on the market they actually require you to splice into the brake lines on our motor home which is not really something we want to do. So not having to do that and having minimal modifications to the towed vehicle here are definitely some of the reasons why we really like to stay in play. And I feel you guys will too. So a big concern or rather issue about using supplemental braking systems is that sometimes we can have false braking or we obviously want to know, if there's an issue on our vehicle and it does come detached from the motor home, worst case scenario. We want to be alert to what's happening so we can pull over as soon as possible. So there's tons of safeguards built into the base plate, safety cables, and tow bars, to prevent that from happening. But to let us know what's going on with the braking system we don't necessarily usually have a cut and clear method for this. But with these stand plate here they have a nice new design. It's actually a little bit of a redesign on the previous model. The previous model used a monitor light, which basically mounted in the rear view mirror of the towed vehicle. And it would eliminate when the brakes are being applied in our vehicle. We don't have to worry about looking back every five seconds to see if that monitor light's going off. We want to be able to keep our eyes on the road and what's in front of us. Which is why Demco developed this little monitor light here. So, this is actually going to be sinked up to a wireless transmitter inside the towed vehicle. And whenever the brakes are depressed on the towed vehicle this is going to light up. So it's gonna to let us know what's going on in our towed vehicle. So we get as much notice as possible if there's any issues or if we just want to know if our braking system is working correctly. So in regards to installation, a lot of people look at these and they're sort of overwhelmed because there is quite a bit of stuff that goes into this kit here. There's quite a bit of stuff in the box. I wouldn't necessarily say it's super easy but it's also not necessarily challenging ever. It's just gonna take you a little bit of time. So as long as you have the right tools and you have some time to set aside I do think you guys, can do this one at home by yourselves. Now as much stuff as we're actually installing inside the towed vehicle here we're really not making a whole lot of modifications or stuff that can't be undone later. So the first step of our installation today is we're going to be finding a place to mount the operating unit. Now we want this somewhere towards the front of the vehicle, preferably in the engine bay. You have a couple of different options but what we found the best place to be is is going to be directly to the top of the lid, to our fuse box. So there's a couple things you want to make sure of before you mount it up here on top of the fuse boxes. Number one, obviously we want to make sure we can still close the hood with the operating unit on top of here. We went ahead and tested it out already, and we we're able to close the hood without issue. So therefore we went ahead and mounted it here to the top of the fuse box lid. There's another thing you want to keep into consideration too, is that you can still access the fuses with the operating unit at the top. As you can see here we can easily get in there, change the fuses out. Now as far as actually mounting it to the fuse box lid, it's pretty easy. All we did was went ahead and stuck our operating unit on here. We marked out two holes here and here on the top of the fuse box, I just took a paint marker, put it down through the pre-drilled holes in our plane shear. And we went ahead and drilled those out. And then on the backside, we'll see if we can show you that. So on the backside we had to make a couple modifications here to the flange. Number one, we had to straighten it down. Cause then we use the holes to drill into the side of our fuse box lid. And we did actually have to take out a little section here so we could still access the release levers for the fuse box lid. So once we have the operating unit mounted we went ahead and mounted our G-Force controller which is going to be the next of the major two components of the system. So here we have our G-Force controller mounted. Now, it does matter where we mount this. We don't have nearly as many options as we did for the operating unit. You're really gonna want to mount it right here to this little kick panel. It does need to face a certain direction which is the correct direction we haven't oriented in now. So once we have this mounted, it was super easy to do so. We just took a self-tapping screw on either side of this little flange here and just screwed it directly into this panel here. And now it may be a good idea to go ahead and prompt this back to make sure that your self tapping screws don't puncture anything like a wire, but we really didn't have too much stuff in that location there. So you guys shouldn't as well. But once we have the G-Force controller mounted we're gonna go ahead and run our wires into the engine bay. We'll show you that now. So now we're going to come into the engine bay here and basically we need to find a pass through point to feed our wires from the cab into the engine bay. We're also going to have an airline. We need to feed from the engine bay into the cab. So this Jeep is pretty easy. We have a fairly large grommet to access which is not too hard to get to. We come over here on the driver's side we're going to locate our brake booster which is this thing here. And then just directly to the side of this down a little bit, we're going to have a large plastic grommet there in the firewall. So in order to get that out, cause we're going to take it out first. We're actually going to go back inside the cab and you're going to reach up under the dash. It's going to be pretty hard to show you from the inside but basically we just took the handle of the screwdriver and I just punched that grommet out and it fell right out here, dropped to the ground. So once you get the grommet out, we went ahead and just drilled a large hole in the center of that. And then we fed all the wires coming from our G-Force controller through that grommet, and re-installed it. It should just click back into place. As you can see here, some of our wires here there's a couple of wires on the G-Force controller. We want to route these over to where we have the operating unit mounted. So what I did is I took our wire and I sort of bunch them together, and I took some electrical tape. So I could keep all the wires and sort of one bundle, and I put electrical tape out and I'll maybe every five to six inches. Doesn't really matter just using them to sort of secure our wires. And you can see here, I'm coming straight out of the grommet and we have the bundle of wires. And I have that ran all the way over to the operating unit, behind the coolant reservoir here. You can see the wires here. We have it tucked up above this little plastic panel here which is actually a factory wiring harness there and then below this body panel. I basically just tucked it back there. It's held pretty nice and secure and we have that routed all the way over there to where the operating unit is. So we've got the G-Force controller installed and we've got our wires ran. There is one other thing we're going to do next here inside the vehicle. And that's going to be to mount our wireless transmitter. So the Stay-in-Play this is the new unit of this, or rather the new model. And rather than having a monitor light, like the older one we're going to have a wireless transmitter that we're going to be installing inside the vehicle here. That's going to transmit a signal to a monitor in the motor home. So we want to go ahead and mount our wireless transmitting the vehicle here. So we went ahead and zip tied it to an existing bracket pretty close to where we mounted the G-Force controller. Let's go ahead and show you that now. So here's the wireless transmitter. Now directly behind this we're going to have a metal support bracket here. It's going to be used as a Fort for the dash. Now we we're able to get two zip ties. We can bind them together. And we simply secured the transmitter to that bracket there. It was pretty easy. And then off the wireless transmitter we're going to have a gray duplex wire. And we just simply ran that through the same drum as our G-Force controller and actually combined it with the bundle of wires for the G-Force controller as well and ran it over to the operating unit. So now we have that bundle of wires that came from the G-Force controller in the wireless transmitter. We have that routed over here to our operating unit, and our operating unit is going to have a similar bundle of wires, about four to five. And now we're going to begin making our connections. Some of the wires from the G-Force controller will get attached to the operating unit and then the operating unit will attach to the battery. We're going to slice into the taillight wiring system we have as well. So there's going to be a great diagram in our instructions here. That explains all this, but we'll go ahead and walk you now through these connections. So the first two connections we made are gonna be the two wires that go straight from the G-Force controller to the operating unit. So that's going to be the red and the black. So the black wire from the G-Force controller we'll go to the black wire from the operating unit and then the red wire from the G-Force controller. We'll go to the red wire from the operating unit. So I just ran them two together. I cut them, so they're fairly close to one another. And I just use two of the included butt connectors in our kit. We're going to be using the blue butt connectors for these two wires. So next we're going to hook up these three wires here from our G-Force controller that be the green, white and yellow. So these are actually going to tie into the taillight wiring system we're using. Granted, this may be a little bit different depending on which particular system you're using. We installed one of our Road Masters diode wiring kits on this vehicle here. So with that diode wiring kit we get a bonded four-pole wiring harness that we run from the taillights to the front of the vehicle. We went ahead and coiled that in our engine Bay here. So if we follow these three wires down here, granted it's going to vary depending on where we spliced in to the bonded four-pole wire. But we actually looped ours up here around the power steering pump. We basically just brought the wires up into the engine Bay before we attach them to the trailer connector upfront. And this one's pretty simple. We're just simply going to splice our green wire into the green wire from the tail, the tail light diode system. And then the yellow wire to the yellow wire. We also attach the white wire to the white wire as well but you want to make sure that we add a ground in this system here. So in addition to the two connections to the white wire we actually spliced in another wire here just a five, six inch section. We actually ran that up behind here and attached it to the negative battery terminal cause that's going to be for our ground. So we used one of the larger butt connectors for these since we're combining multiple wires. We're going to be using the yellow ones. Those are for the larger gauge wires. And what I simply did is I just piggy back one of these extra wired leads into that butt connector, attached to a ring terminal. This is going to be a 10 millimeter nut. We'll just simply attach it to the stud here on the battery terminal. So then finally the wires, the remaining wires we have coming from the G-Force controller. We have the one, this gray duplex wire here that came from the actual wireless transmitter. So once you get past the sheathing here it's going to separate into two wires. We're going to have a white and a red wire. So the white wire, we just ran down through here and we actually attached it to that same stud, we we're just talking about on the battery, which is for the ground. And then as far as the red wire goes this is actually going to splice into one of the wires coming from our operating unit which then in turn, goes to the breakaway switch. That's going to be our blue wire. So now this should leave us with two final wires here coming from our operating unit. And that's the brown and the blue. These are actually going to be ran towards the front of the vehicle and attached to the breakaway switch. But before we do that, we need to do a couple of things. Number one, you need to make sure that we went ahead and splice the red wire from the wireless transmitter into the blue wire, from this wire here. And then as far as the brown wire goes we actually needed to attach that to the positive battery terminal. So we're still going to be running the other ends of these to the breakaway switch. But we are going to have two splices that we need to make before we run it there. So our brown wire is actually going to be going down here. We have it attached to the positive battery terminal using the included fuse connector. So you can see here it's going to be a 10 millimeter socket, remove that nut. And then we'll attach that wire with a ring terminal. So because we're sincerely splicing into wires into our blue and Brown wires here. Now you can use a butt connector and combines your wires but in our kit here we're going to get these three-way connectors here. Usually going to be pretty good for these next two steps here we'll simply attach one to the leading end of the blue wire and the output of the blue wire. And then that's going to be the one that we're splicing in. We use these on both the blue and brown cables here. So we spliced into those two connections here for our blue and brown wire. And now we just have it routed along the battery here. We have it coming over here behind the air box. You can still kind of see it here. And then in about this point here we went ahead and dropped it down because again we're going to be attaching these to the breakaway switch. So we went ahead and ran those wires down through the engine bay into the front of the vehicle. So here we have our breakaway switch. Now, in order to mount this we actually used a factory hole here on the bottom side of this bumper fascia here. Every five or six inches or so, you're going to have a factory screw securing this bumper to I believe some sort of bracing behind it. We went ahead and just removed one of those screws and use the hole to mount the bracket for our breakaway switch. So we didn't have to do any drilling into the front of the vehicle here. But once we had the breakaway switch mounted we're going to have a black wire and an orange wire. That's going to attach to the blue wire and the brown wire that we ran down here. Now, it doesn't matter what color we attach to what color you just want to attach them both together. So that'll be it. As far as the wiring goes, that's going to be the hard part or I would say the most time-consuming part. The next thing we're going to hook up is the vacuum line. So in our kit here, we're going to get some vacuum line. Now on our operating unit the check valve is going to be pre-installed. So what we did is went ahead and just sprayed this, fitting down with some soapy water and we attached our vacuum line. You can see here, and then we have it ran through the back of the engine and over on the driver's side. We're going to show you where we left off with the vacuum line. We just simply haven't ran down through here and we haven't attached to one of the T-fittings that come in our kit here, are going to be attaching it to the top of the T. And again, all these connections are pretty tough to get on. So just go ahead and spray the fittings down with some soapy water makes it a little bit easier to slide them on. What we're going to do next is, we're going to locate the vacuum on the vehicle that we need to splice into. So if we come over here to the brake booster, we pointed that out earlier, it's going to be the silver unit here. We're going to be following the airline coming from the brake booster which is this hard plastic line here. You see, we have a red little lock fitting here. And what we did at this point here, we actually went ahead and cut that plastic airline tubing. We used a pair of razor blade cutters, really whatever you have, you don't want to use any sort of snips or anything like that. A razor blade. We want to make sure that we cut this nice and flush so we don't have any leaks. But once we cut that line coming from the brake booster and we went ahead and split on a section of our vacuum hose I used about an eight to nine section here. Again, you want to make sure you spray the outside of that plastic fitting. It is pretty tough to get those airline hoses on that, but you can do it. And then we use one of the ring clamps here to secure it to that factory line. So once we attach that eight to nine eight section we cut out, we actually ran that to one of the sides of the T that we showed you a little bit earlier. So now let's go back to our T here. We showed you this side and we showed you that side. Now we have sort of the output side here or the input whatever you want to call it. This side here is going to go back to the other side of the factory line we cut. So we cut about a three inch four inch section here, and we attached our check valve. Now we want to make sure we install our check valve these correct way, the green side or the clear side. It doesn't matter, just not the black side. So the green side actually goes to the brake booster. And then we have this black side over here. That'll actually go to the engine side. So now we went ahead and took a larger section of our airline tubing or rather our vacuum hose. We follow up and around here, came back here, we go down here. So around this area here you remember where we cut the factory line in two parts. This is the brake booster side. The other part of that was the engine side. We just repeated the same process of connecting it here to our other line which is going to be tucked down in there. Now it may seem, it may seem like we have a lot of looping vacuum hoses here. That's because we want to make sure that we don't have any sharp bins that will restrict airflow. We're going to make sure that we have these long, nice and smooth bins. If we do need to make a close turn. So now we'll wrap up the connections for our operating unit and wrap up everything else we'll be doing here in the engine bay. So we're going to take the airline tubing that comes in our kit here, and we're going to attach it to the push lock fitting on the side of our operating unit. You can see, we have that connection here. And then I actually zip tie this to the vacuum hose. We just ran because again, we're going to be going on the driver's side, running this to the driver's side. We're actually going to be running this into the cab of the vehicle using that grommet that we pointed out earlier. So here we're running the driver's side, now. You can start to see our airline tubing. We had to split from the vacuum hose. We came over here, sort of use the path we ran earlier for the G-Force controller wires. We came down through here next to our brake booster and then through that grommet into the cab. So from here, we're just going to go ahead and clear up our airline tubing. You should have plenty of extra. We're going to get it out of our way now, because the next thing we're going to do is install our actuator here. Now this is probably my least favorite part of the installation. Not necessarily that it's hard we're just sort of working in a cramped space here. So the first thing we're going to have to do this actually Jeep, the previous owner took the carpet out which made things a little bit easier for us but we're going to have sort of like this plastic rubberized plastic not quite sure what it's called, but we're going to have that covering this section here on our firewall. We actually need to remove that. It's not too hard to get out. We just took a razor knife and cut out a section, sort of just followed some of the bracket body lines here, and cut out this space here. Your carpet may be here as well. So you may need to peel that back, but basically we just need to clear an area, get bare surface of the firewall here directly behind our pedal. So the next thing we did, we went ahead and test fit the actuator here to the brake pedal arm. Now, in order to do that you're actually going to have to swap out the screws that come pre-installed on this bracket. We'll get some longer ones in our kit here. We need those longer ones installed to be able to grab securely around the brake arm here or Jeep. So we went ahead and did that. And then we test fitted the actuator onto the brake arm and the position that we want to install it. You want to get it pretty high up, to get it out of the way of our foot. We're pressing the pedal, but once we tested it on there we didn't tighten everything down. We went ahead and pulled our cable and attached it straight to the firewall. So basically what we want to do here is we want to make sure that cable is going to be straight, when the pedal depresses. we don't want too much of a bind in that cable. We do have a little bit of room for air but we basically want to make sure that we're going to be straight back from the position of our actuator. That way we're pressing that pedal, our line there doesn't get in too much of a bind which can cause it to break obviously. So once we found a good spot on our firewall here went ahead and just made a Mark with a paint marker here about where we think we're going to install our bracket and our anchor point. So now that we have our reference point we went ahead and removed our actuator here where you can actually just slide it down a little bit but we need some room to work. Now we've already done the hard work for you but what we actually found is we're going to have any little rivet here in the firewall. We're actually going to be making our center connection directly above that. We're going to have a bit of a bracket here to up top which tells us when we need to stop. So what I did was you're going to take that three hole bracket. You're going to line up the center hole with the mark that we made earlier. Then we're going to use a self tapping screws. We're going to screw in either side here. Now you want to make sure that you get your hole started and that you take a piece of wire back through there, and just to make sure that you're not going to be puncturing anything behind the firewall. but we'll go ahead and screw in both sides, and then we can lead the center hole out. We're going to bring our actuator back up. We're going to securely attach that to the brake pedal arm. And then we're going to loop the wire through our anchor point here. And then we can actually attach our anchor point through that center hole. Now you need to be really careful that you don't over-tighten this self-tapping screw here for this center hole, because if we strip that out or anchor it's going to be super loose. So you want to make sure you just snug it up and then we're going to make our final adjustments. So the final adjustment phase, it's probably the most annoying part I would say of this install. We're going to be pivoting constantly. This actuator here, as well as pivoting the anchor point and adjusting the tension to make sure everything is up to code. So want to make sure: number one, that we don't have too much slack in this line here. And again, we talked about it earlier, we need to make sure that this cable is straight when we depress the pedal, and it goes towards the firewall. So there's going to be a bit of fine tuning here to the actuator on the brake pedal arm, the tension on the cable and the rotation of the anchor point. But you should be able to see how we have it mounted now, how much slack we have. And this is pretty much what we want it to look like, or as close as we can, when we get everything adjusted. But once we get everything correctly adjusted we'll go ahead and tighten down all our fasteners. We can snug up that center anchor point. And then finally, we'll take our airline tubing here, cut off the excess and make sure we get it straight in the cut as possible, and attach it to the push to lock, fitting our actuator. So if you a remember, our fuse holder from earlier it's now time to insert our yellow 20 amp fuse into this fuse holder and then test our system. So in order to test your system if you have someone nearby, a friend, they can help you with this as well. But we're going to show you a way to do it by yourself. Number one, we are going to pull the pin here on our breakaway. So now we'll come back inside the cab of the vehicle here. We're going to locate our G-Force controller in our on off switch. So we're going to go ahead and flip the switch on and that should pressurize our actuator. We should see that move assuming we put in everything up correctly. So there you go. Now, you know, everything's hooked up, working correctly. It might also be a good idea now to go ahead and look over the cable, make sure everything's pulling straight. It's not binding in the wrong way. So we're going to hop into our RV now. The only thing we have to do the with the RV inside is just plug in our monitor here. Just find a TOMO outlet. It should vary depending on where your actual 12 volt outlet is located. But we really don't have to mount this at any one particular location; just find a flat surface that we can set it on. So let's go ahead now and test out our monitor here to make sure it's working correctly. We're just going to go ahead and pull the breakaway switch there on our braking system. So we do actually have some adjustments we can make to the braking force here in the towed vehicle. That's going to be with the control knob on the G-Force controller. So in order to adjust this it's super easy. We're going to turn the hazard lights on in our motor home, hookup the umbilical cord from the motor home to our towed vehicle. And then we are going to flip on the unit and our brakes should be pulsing along with the turn signals. We obviously don't want that but we can adjust that out here. That's going to give us the correct tension or pressure rather. So we'll turn it on now. And you can see our brakes are pulsing with the turn signals. We're going to loosen this knob and then we're going to move it up until that stops. And as soon as that stops we want to make sure we get this dead set point. Perfect. So right there is when it stops. We'll simply just tighten down that screw and that's all we need to adjust it. And that's going to do it today for our look and installation of the Demco Stay-In-Play braking system here on our 2018 Jeep Wrangler unlimited..

Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Michael B
Installed by:
Michael B

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