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Demco SBS Delta Force Portable Supplemental Braking System Installation - 2017 Smart fortwo

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How to Install the Demco SBS Delta Force Portable Supplemental Braking System on a 2017 Smart fortw


Hi there, Smart car owners. Today, in your 2017 Smart Fortwo, We're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Demco's Delta Force supplemental braking system.There's five main components you'll need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motorhome. You'll need your base plate, which is your connection point for your tow bar that is installed on your vehicle, you'll need your tow bar, which is the connection between your vehicle and your motorhome. You'll also need your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection in addition to your tow bar, you'll need your diode wiring, which takes all the lighting signals from your motorhome, transfers it to the lights at the back of your vehicle, so that way, everybody behind you knows your intentions when going down the road. If you don't want to go with diode wiring, you could also go with magnetic lights and wiring, which operates similarly, it just doesn't use the existing lights on your vehicle. And you'll also need your supplemental braking system.

This will apply the brakes in your vehicle when you hit the brakes in your motorhome, using the existing brakes on the car to help it come to a safe stop.Having a supplemental braking system on your vehicle is not only required in many states, but it's also going to help extend the life of the components on your motorhome. You're not going to be using all the brakes on your motor home to stop, you're going to have some assistance from the brakes back here, so that'll help extend those components' life. It's also a little bit easier on your tow bar and components here in the back, because you don't have the weight of the vehicle just pressing into those when you're stopping in the motorhome. You've got the brakes here helping it come to a stop, which will extend those components' life as well.You do want to keep in mind though that since you are using the brakes on your vehicle, that you are going to be using the brakes here, and it's going to be wearing down those pads. So you do want to periodically make sure that you check on the brakes on your vehicle here, to ensure that you haven't worn those down, because when you're going down the road, it's almost like you're just driving it, so the brakes are getting that same amount of wear, as if you we're driving right behind your motorhome.When you're ready to use your system, you simply take it and set it in the vehicle on the floorboard.

You can adjust your feet to make it level. These just simply screw out here on the bottom. You can just unscrew it by hand, and then we'll hook up this end of the pedal. Now, I found it easiest to hook this up if you actually just pull this little pin here, push this pin out, and that allows you to take this off. With the pedal clamp off, we can then loosen up the knob, spread the two jaws apart, place it over our pedal, and then squeeze it back down.You can see the friction material there.

It does make it a little bit difficult to slide it, but that's a good thing. That friction material ensures that this is not going to come off on you when you're using it. We can then tighten this back down, to lock it in place. We can then lift our braking system back up, and slide the pin back in, and I found this much easier than just leaving the whole system together, is to just do it like this. You're not fighting with the weight of this thing.

The pin slides back through, put that in place.We can then hook up our tether to the eyelet at the back of our cylinder, and then set our unit nice and straight. We want to make sure our tether has a little bit of slack in it, just like it does there. We can then take our wiring, plug in the connector on top, and then the wire coming off the side of the unit here is your power wire. We're going to run that over to our 12 volt outlet, which is actually located on the passenger side on our Smart car here, and then we'll just plug this into power up our unit. You can see now that it's powered up and we've got a blue flashing light and initialize, we'll press our initialize button, and it's going to run through its setup.It may take it a moment here. It's going to apply the pedal once, it'll let it off, it'll do a couple of more checks, and you'll want to wait until you see all the lights here are solid green. They have now all turned solid green. It is a little hard to see, because it's such a bright day, but where it says tank, TX, cylinder compressor, all of those things there have green lights, indicating that it has passed all the checks, and the system is now ready to use. You can then select the appropriate vehicle that you're flat towing. For our Smart car here, we're going to be using compact, and we're ready to put it in flat tow and hit the road.On the side of the unit, you'll have your sensitivity adjustment. To adjust this, you unscrew the knob, and then you can place it further up or further down, to make it more or less sensitive. You saw we went all the way to the most sensitive, it applies the brakes, so obviously, that's way too sensitive, so it's good to find a happy medium. I find a good starting point is somewhere slightly below the middle. You can drive it and see how it feels there, and tweak it as needed.We'll begin our installation inside the vehicle, by placing our unit on the floor on the driver's side. Our unit is a portable system, so it's designed to be taken in and out, but we want to get it in place so we can figure out where we want to put our anchor, because all of our wiring and everything is going to connect to this box. So I've gone ahead and set it down, and I've clamped the end here around the pedal. To clamp it around, you can just loosen this knob, and then you can see here it slides apart, you just clamp it over it, and you just tighten that knob back down.Once you've got it in position, we need to mount the anchor for our tether cord here. This should be as straight in line as possible with our cylinder, when you've got it set and hooked up to your pedal. We've attached ours to the back of the firewall here. So we're going to fold the carpet back, and you can see I've made a small slit there. We'll do that at the end after we've got it mounted. So peel your carpet back. You will need to rip out some of the insulation that's back there, and then you use the three self-tapping screws, there's one on each side of our bracket here. This is just an extra support brace for the anchor. The anchor is located here, and it the same self-tapping screw, but you'll put it in the center hole of this anchor piece. This can be positioned anywhere you like on the firewall. You want to make sure that there's no components on the other side when you're mounting this, so you don't cause any damage to them. And again, the goal is to be as straight in line as possible with your cylinder.Once you've got the anchor mounted up, the tether cord here is adjustable in its length, by simply pushing it through, looping it around again, and then you can adjust the tension on it. We really don't want any tension on it, we want it to be kind of loose. You can see here we've got just a little bit of slack, enough to keep the cord from laying down, but to where we can still move it around and it's not keeping any pressure on our pedal. Once you've done that, you can tighten up the set screw found on the bottom of the anchor, using a number four Allen key. With our tether fully attached, we can go ahead and slit the carpet so our cable can easily pass through, and on the other end, it just hooks to our unit with the pre-attached carabiner. Now that our unit's in place, we can start routing all the wiring and stuff that we need to the box to get it operational.We're now outside the vehicle, under the hood. You'll want to locate your diode wiring at this point, because the wiring for our braking system taps into that. Here's the harness for the braking system. I've got most of it just bundled up right here, because there's more length than we're going to need for our Smart car, since it's so short, and there are three wires that come out of that harness. You'll have a black wire, a yellow wire, and a green wire. The yellow and green wires will tap into your diode wiring. So our yellow wire here, you can see it taps into the yellow wire for our diodes, which is our left turn signal. So if you don't have the appropriate colors for your diode wiring, just make sure that the yellow wire here is attaching to the left turn signal circuit.The green wire will attach to the right turn signal circuit for your diode wiring. If you're using our Roadmaster kits here at etrailer.com, then all of your wire colors will match like ours here. Yellow to yellow, green to green. The black wire coming off of our unit is for your breakaway switch. This will attach to the blue wire on your breakaway switch. Now, your breakaway switch will mount on your base plate. Depending on your base plate, you will have varying locations to mount your breakaway switch. We'll go over the mounting of that here in a moment. All of these connections we've made, since it's outside the vehicle, using heat shrink butt connectors, which you can purchase here at etrailer.com. Your kits going to come with regular butt connectors, but if you're doing anything outside the vehicle, these will keep out moisture, ensuring a long lasting connection.Our breakaway switch is located here, and attaches to a tab on our Roadmaster base plate. Now, it is a little difficult to see where it attaches back there in the back. I highly recommend that you install your breakaway switch while your fascia is removed, when you're installing your base plate. When putting your base plate on, it's actually the best time to do all of your flat tow setup component installations. There's two wires coming off the back of our breakaway switch. You saw the blue wire where it connects to the black wire on the harness for our box. The other wire coming off of this is an orange wire with a black stripe, and that is our power wire. I've actually routed it across the back here, and it comes up over here.And you can see here where we used the included fuse harness, and attached it to our battery positive. Now, it's not being attached directly to the battery positive cable, because we've installed a fuse bypass, so we've gone to the post on the fuse bypass that is hot all the time. The fuse harness that comes in your kit is going to be looped, so you'll cut the loop, put a ring terminal on one side, and that's the side you'll attach to your battery positive, and then on the other side, you'll connect it to your breakaway switch wire, which is the orange and black here.Now, you'll also see a brown wire here. This is for an additional accessory that we are going to need to power our braking system, so we can go ahead and cover that here. Your braking system's powered using an auxiliary 12 volt outlet, so we had to add one because of our fuse bypass here. Once we hit our fuse bypass, it's going to remove all power to the rest of the vehicle, so we had to install a power wire for our own 12 volt circuit, to in order to power our unit. So you can see we've got those both connected to power.Now, all those connections we made to our battery disconnect here is necessary because we have to disconnect the battery to flat tow, but we need power for our braking system. So we chose to use a battery disconnect solenoid right here, as our solution to be able to power our components up that we need, but disconnect the rest of the car. So keep in mind that you will need a similar system, or this one here that we've got from Roadmaster, in order to get your braking system fully functional.We now need to get our opponents inside. There's a grommet located here just behind your washer bottle, where we can pass things through. I did just pop the grommet out, there's a little handle on there, it twists and it comes out, and then I used a small drill bit to drill a hole through it to make it easier to pass my wires, then I just put the grommet back in. You can see our brown wire that was coming off of our fuse harness, we routed it across over to this grommet, and then this is our main harness here that we talked about first that has the yellow, green, and black wire, it's got a sheathing on the rest of it, we also pass that through.We'll then head to the inside. You can see where our wires pass through the grommet on the inside here. So they're easily accessible. I did route them over towards the driver's side here, just to keep the wires out of the way so they wouldn't interfere with our feet, and then you can route it behind some of the wiring and stuff here to keep it all out of the way. This is the harness that was on the outside that had the yellow, green, and black wire. This will just simply plug into the top of the unit. The unit will then use these signals from your stop and turn for both the left and right, and your breakaway switched, to help it in its functionality. It uses those brake signals, plus the internal inertia sensor to help it apply the pedal appropriately.Now that we've got these connected, we need to power up the unit. Now, to power it up, it's pretty simple. You just plug it into your auxiliary outlet. On our Smart car, however, we've got some issues because we have to disconnect the battery in order to flat tow. So in that case, we have no power. So we showed you underneath the hood we put a battery disconnect on there, and we ran a brown wire in, which we're going to connect to a auxiliary outlet that we've installed. It's always going to have power even when we disconnect the battery. We've gone ahead and put that over here on the passenger side, due to foot clearance on this side, we wanted to make it a little easier on our driver, and your cord is going to be long enough to be able to reach over here, and this is the unit that we've added here.You can pick up 12 volt outlets here at etrailer.com. I highly recommend that you pick up the outlet that comes with an included bracket. This bracket is really nice, because we we're able to just use the included self-tapping screws that came with the bracket, to run it into the paneling right here, giving us a solid connection point for our braking system, to easily attach it and disconnect it. Coming off the back of this, there are two wires that we've just routed behind our center console over to the other side. So we're just going to go ahead and plug this in. So our unit power's on, and then we're going to head back over there to the other side, and we'll show you the two wires, how we've got this unit to get power all the time.This is the brown wire that's coming off of our battery disconnect. It's hot all the time. We connected that to the end on our 12 volt socket that has a slow-blow fuse in line with it. The slow-blow fuse, we ended up just cutting off, since we're coming off of a fuse harness already, we don't need two fuses. So we cut the slow-blow end off. That slow-blow end, also on the other end of the slow-blow, it has a spade terminal, so you can cut all that off and then just use a butt connector to attach those. The other wire has a ring terminal that's pre-attached to it, and we just used a self-tapping screw and ran it into the sidewall over here, to get that mounted up. With power and ground on our 12 volt outlet, we've got everything we need to power up our unit now.So now with our auxiliary power cable plugged in, we are powered up. We've got the appropriate signals we need from our breakaway switch and motorhome side. You'll see that the unit has a flashing blue light where it says initialized after powering it on. Make sure you've got it all connected to your pedal, your tethers in and all that, and then we can go ahead and hit the initialize button. It's going to take it about a minute to run through its initialization procedure, where it's going to extend the pedal, it's going to retract it, it's going to do a couple of self-checks, and then all of our lights will turn green here once it's completed. I'm going to wait until these quit flashing, and now that they're solid, our unit is ready and operational. At this point, you could make your selection for the type of vehicle that you have, choose your boost mode, and hook up and prepare to flat tow.If you want to check just to make sure that the unit seems like it's adjusted properly, on the bottom, you have some feet that you can twist out to help get the unit as level as possible with your pedal. I've already gone ahead and adjusted those. If you are having any concerns with those, you can adjust them to test out to make sure the unit seems like it's stable. You can hit the manual activation button here, and just make sure that the unit seems to not want to tip over or act funny, because it's not quite level. If everything seems good, your installation here is complete.And that completes our look at Demco's Delta Force supplemental braking system on our 2017 Smart Fortwo.