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Curt Universal Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2020 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Curt Universal Tail Light Wiring Kit on a 2020 Ford F-150


Ola, neighbors. It's Brad here at "etrailer." And today, we're taking a look and installing the Curt universal wiring system for towed vehicles. Now, this system's gonna be great for when you're flat towing your vehicle to send the signal from your motor coach to the vehicle. Now, this system is going to wire into your taillights and gonna send a signal to the front of the vehicle. And that way, when you hook up to your umbilical on your motor coach, when you turn your turn signals on or use your brake lights or your running lights, it's gonna mimic that on your vehicle. And that's gonna allow the people behind you to know what you're actually doing, whether if you're changing lanes or slowing down, and that's gonna keep you safe and legal.

Now, other towed vehicles you might've seen have the magnetic lights attached to them. Well, with those, you have to run the power up to the vehicle. So, not only do you have wire running down the highway and kind of flapping along, but also that's one more component that you have to keep track of and make sure that you have ready to go when you're gonna flat tow. Having it installed on the vehicle gives it a nice OEM look. You don't have to worry about those magnetic lights falling off.

And it just looks a lot cleaner. And installation is pretty straightforward, and once you have it done, theoretically shouldn't have to worry about any other lighting. You'll be ready to go and use your diode wiring and turn signals whenever you need to when flat towing. Now, with some of the newer vehicles that have LED tail lights, you do have to do a little bit of splicing into the wire, but it's pretty basic and pretty easy to do, especially because I'm gonna be walking you through it and we'll get these working properly on your vehicle. So, let's take a look at that.

To begin, we're going to remove our rear tail lights and that's gonna gain us access to the vehicle's tail light wiring. And that way, we can get these all hooked up. So, with an eight millimeter socket, I'm gonna go ahead and remove these. There's just two screws on each tail light. When it comes to popping the tail light out, pretty simple.

You may want a plastic trim removal tool for a little bit of leverage, and there are some pins that it pops into, but I've found that kind of giving it a quick bump on this back end here will kind of loosen that up and it is kind of scary sounding. But with the trim panel removal tool, you can actually kind of use this as leverage to kind of pry this back. And again, it's gonna take a little push through that clip on this back end here that it pops into. And then, with this popped out, you can see here's our harness here, and we're gonna be needing to splice into these wires. So, we'll go ahead and unplug this here. We'll set our taillight in the bed just to keep it safe. We're gonna go ahead and do that same process on the other side. So, now we need to route our wires and that way we can tie into our harness here. And so, I like to take the actual whole bundle and kind of lay it out. So, here we have our four wires with the four pole. This is gonna be running up to the front of the vehicle. So, that's gonna go there. We have a ground which we'll be attaching. And then, you have these. Now, your yellow and red and brown, this is gonna go to the left side of the vehicle, or the driver's side. Our green, red and brown is gonna go to the passenger side. We also have this spare plug here, and this is only if you plan on using a trailer with your flat tow vehicle as well. So, the way we need to get this routed though, is simply going to be running this up through this little gap in here. So, to get these wires up the best way that we've found, we have a spare airline tube, and if you don't have any spare tube at home, that's okay. You can use a wire, a coat hanger or something along those lines to just get this routed down. And we're just gonna kinda use that to pull it up. So, I'll go ahead and feed this down. So, with that routed through, I'm gonna take some electrical tape and I'm gonna take my wires and try to keep them as tightly bundled as possible. It's gonna make it a little bit easier to feed that through. And so, with just a little bit of electrical tape around them, it's gonna make it easy to get these routed up. I'm just gonna kind of put these on the connectors. Try not to get our handy-dandy tags that they had there for us. On the truck this is actually a little bit easier than some vehicles to route this up. So, it's not too hard to do. You can actually see these kinda feeding up here. Now, that we have these, we can go ahead and do that on the other side as well. And that way we have both of our tail lights, at least wired and get ready to connect them up. So now, we have our wire routed up to our other side. And while I took that wire over, I try to tuck it in spots where it's not gonna get in the way of the spare tire. So, I kind of tucked it up where the rear hitches. So, if you wanna do that and throw a few zip ties on there to keep it in place, that's gonna be ideal. Now, here we have our wire loom and as you can see, this one has had some previous wire done. So, I'm gonna go ahead. I'm gonna pull all this off and that way I can access the wires that we're actually gonna be tying into with our butt connectors here. So, go ahead and make some small clips. And since this one has already been kind of taped up, yours may probably have some tape as well, but just kinda peel that back and you're gonna wanna gain access to a spot that it's still gonna have play to plug into the tail light and still be able to tuck down in there. So, I'm gonna kinda shoot for this area. So, if I can open this up, that's where we're gonna go. Now, if you are using a razor blade or some snips, just obviously be careful not to damage any of your previous wiring. Here we go. And so here, it looks like this is the factory wrapped edge here. So, I'm gonna trim this back a little bit more, get this tape off and get some room to play with these wires. So, this is where it can kinda get a little bit tricky, but I've gone through and found the proper way to get this wired. So, you're gonna see, we have a total of six wires here. This one, the left turn input and output, we're actually not gonna be using this. And the reason being is these tail lights are a two-wire, meaning, your brake light and your turn signal are all integrated into one. And the other one's gonna be our running light. So, the yellow here, since we're not gonna be using it, I'm simply going to take these up and we can get those out of the way. Now, for our other wires, it's hard to test with an electrical probe because the LED tail lights don't really allow you to do that without poking through some wires. So, I've gone through and found the wiring information we need. And so, I've separated, we have a orange and gray wire and that's gonna be our stop and turn. And then, our blue and gray is going to be our parking light, or as you may know it, the running light. So those are gonna be the ones that we splice into and it's gonna be pretty easy to do here. We're simply going to cut these. And you're gonna wanna splice both ends because the butt connectors from our harness are gonna tie into those. So now, that we have these kind of separated out, next thing we need to do is check our tabs here. So, like I said before, our blue, gray is going to be the parking, which tail light input and are the ones gonna be the break slash turn. So, our red ones here, we're gonna be tying in to our gray and orange. Now, you can see output to module. And what that means is it's going to our tail light. So, as we can see, this one's closer to the clip. So, we can attach this. Now you just kinda go through and pull your wires just like that, to make sure that you have the solid connection. Now, our other side that says from the vehicle is going to attach to the other. Now, moving along, we have our brown ones here. The same thing, to module, we're gonna attach to the one closer to the clip. And then from vehicle to the other end. As you can see here, I've changed out the butt connectors The ones that we're supplied with the factory, I wasn't too happy with the connections and I've opted for a heat shrink style, and that way it really cinches it up, keeps it waterproof, and that way you don't really have to worry about the elements causing any corrosion or build up in there. So, I'm gonna heat shrink these down, and then I'm gonna kinda get these all nice and clean and ready to put the tail light back on. So, our passenger side is gonna be a little bit different just as the color of the wires have changed. So, the ones that we're not gonna use on this are gonna be the green ones. So, we can actually go ahead and take these back. Now, as far as our vehicle harness, wires have changed a little bit as well. Now, our blue and gray has stayed the same, but you're gonna see we have a green and orange wire, and we're gonna be tying into that. And that, it's easy to kind of denote which ones we're using because these are thicker gauge than the rest of the wires. So, that should help just to kind of give you another go/no-go gauge just to make sure you're doing the right one. So, same process. We're gonna simply cut these. And now I'm gonna go through. And I'm gonna change my connectors out here with heat shrink ones. Again, not completely necessary, but it gives me a little bit more peace of mind and it makes it to where you shouldn't have to ever go back because of a loose connection. So now, I've buttoned this up with just a little extra wire loom and some tape just to kind of make it clean. But you're gonna wanna kind of tuck these back in here. That way it's not gonna get in the way of the tailgate assist here and simply plug your taillight back in. And then, when you're feeding this in, you have this pin, you're gonna wanna put that in there first. You also have a bottom pin. So, get those kind of lined in there. And again, if your loom kinda gets in the way, you may have to tuck it in just as mine is. But once that's tucked in, it should slip into place just as it did from the factory. So, now we have our screw holes lined up. We'll go ahead, put our hardware back in. Now, go ahead and repeat this process on the other tail light. Then after that, we're gonna head under the vehicle and kind of get the rest of the wiring going. So now, we have our ground wire here, and we're simply going to find a point on the chassis that we can ground this to. Now, your ring terminal does have a flat side, so that's gonna need to go against the metal. And we're gonna take our self-tapping screw that was included in the kit and just find a good spot for it. I think right here should do just fine. Now, with your self-tappers, don't go too crazy as you can actually ruin the threads. So, just go enough to where that wire's not able to. Perfect. So, all we have left is these four wires. Now, this is gonna run to the front of the vehicle. And my goal when running the wire is to stay away from anything that can be hot or moving. So, that's gonna be your exhaust, your axles, your drive shafts. And a lot of times you can actually follow the factory wire loom to make it a little bit easier. So, I'm gonna go ahead and run this wire and then I'll show you how I did it. So, I routed our wiring up to the front of the vehicle and the way that I did it, I tried my best to keep it out of sight, but also out of the harm of anything moving or hot and really trying to use some factory spots. So, you don't want a lot of zip ties and it's really up to you how you run it. There's no perfect way to do it, but I found that the way that I've run seemed to work out pretty well. So, I'll show you how we ran it. From this back here, I simply went on this frame rail and at the gas tank, kind of cut over here using this center support. And coming out to the outside here, I actually zip tied it up on the top of the frame, and that's gonna keep this out of weather and also nothing should catch it on the road and cause any damage to it. So, it stays protected up here. And then, you can see it start to poke out. And from here, I went on the side. Now this part, it got a little tricky because you do have an axle here. You also have your steering, so I used the existing lines and zip tied those. And then, it kinda tapers over this front crossmember. Then, I brought it up over to where our wire exist up here. Now, this is gonna attach eventually to our mount upfront. So, we have our diode wiring running to the front here, and now we attach this to a six pole. We've also added a charge line. And what that's gonna do is keep the battery charged wall flat, towing this. So that way, when you get to your destination and you wanna use your vehicle, you don't have to jump it. And then, you're ready to start and go. So, on the backside here, we have all of our wires put in place based on the diagrams from the manufacturer. And this is our auxiliary charge line here. And that just is a simple run to a amp circuit. And that's gonna allow that power from the RV to actually run power and feed this and keep our battery charged while flat-towing. So, since we have these all hooked up, we're gonna wanna test this to make sure that it's working. So with our jump box, we're gonna hook this up. And so now, we're gonna run through the light cycles to make sure that it's all working. So, we're gonna start with our running lights. Next, I'm gonna do my left turn signal, then my brake lights, and then my right turn signal. Now, before putting our boot on and calling it good here, you're gonna wanna go through with a little bit of black silicone. And what that's gonna do is prevent any corrosion and basically give this a much longer life span and keep it nice and protected. So, covering these up completely is going to make sure that you don't have any water getting in there to that route wire and causing any breakdown. And then from there, we can put our cap on. With that all coded up, we can now put our boot in place and it's gonna stay protected from the elements. Now, as far as mounting your plug goes, it's kinda up to you. I've gone ahead and used this cap here, and I think that's gonna give it a nice look. And it's also gonna kinda keep it a little bit OEM-looking and not sticking out too much. So, it's up to you. Now, once you have it in a spot that you like, you can go ahead and drill, keep that in place. And also, you might wanna put a little dielectric grease in here, and that's gonna make sure that you have good connections to your umbilical. And that was a look at the Curt Universal Diode Wiring Kit for towed vehicles on a 2020 Ford F150. Thanks for watching..


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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