Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2010 Chrysler Town and Country

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2010 Chrysler Town and Country

Today on a 2010 Chrysler Town and Country we're going to show you the current Venturer Trailer Brake Controller, part number C51110. Now, to help us with our install, we're going to use a couple of other part numbers. We're going to use part number ETBC7. This is a universal installation kit for trailer brake controllers. Also, we're going to use a bracket to connect our 7-pole connector to the back of our hitch using part number 18136. This is time-delayed brake controller, so this allows you to mount the brake controller in any situation you like.

We have it in a traditional horizontal setting, but you could also put it sideways, on top of the dash, or maybe at an angle, depending on where you want to have it located at. You're not really limited on mounting options. When you hold the brake pedal we can see on the display how much power is being set up. I've got it all the way to the left, and I'll scroll over to the right and you can see how much the power increases. That gives us scale of how much power we're using. Next up is our manual override, this button right here.

That sends power just to trailer brakes and in case in a situation you want to add just trailer brakes by themselves. NoW on the very side toward the front is another sync switch. We move it one way to make it more sensitive, and the other way to make it less sensitive, and we can move it anywhere in between. This will determine how soon or how slow your brakes come on. If we hold the brake pedal down and move the sync switch, if we move it toward the front we can see the power comes on very fast. Pull it back and hit the brake pedal again, we can see how the power comes on slow.

Total operative power is limited by this slide switch on top. One last little detail here, which is neat, is that if your electrical plug gets disconnected somehow, bounces out, gets caught on some road debris or something, it'll actually tell you what's going on. If I pull out the plug, we get a signal showing something's wrong with the electrical. We go and plug it back in and it should fix it. This is also designed to work with up to three electric brake axles. All right, now for install, we're got to work at the back of the vehicle and work our way towards the front.

We're going to look underneath the vehicle and up to the hitch. Go ahead and put our bracket into place. We'll put our clamp in first, run it through the hole in the bracket, run the clamp back through itself, and go ahead and tighten it down using a 5/16 nut driver or socket. The excess tuck up to the top a little bit. Before we tighten it down for good we'll go ahead and make adjustments, then we'll tighten it down for good. All right, now let's get the 7-pole bracket from the ETBC7 kit, and we'll attach it to our universal bracket. Okay. Now the hardware comes with this bracket we'll use to attach our 7-pole bracket. Let's tighten down the nut using a 3/8 socket. For a top-sided screw it uses a Phillips screwdriver. All right, now let's go ahead an take our 7-pole connector from our ETBC7 kit, and we'll be working with that kit from here on out, by the way. Let's go ahead and work it into the opening on the bottom of the 7-pole bracket, and we'll attach this to the bracket using the provided hardware that comes with the kit. We'll go ahead and tighten down these screws using a flat screwdriver. Now we can start with some electrical connections. Okay, our first connection will be our 4-pole right here. This will plug into the pre-existing 4-pole wiring harness. These will simply go together, and since this will be a semi-permanent connection, we'll go ahead and protect the contacts with some dielectric grease. The grease we're using is part number 11755 from LubriMatic. This is electrical contact grease. Put a little dab in there, and then we'll go ahead put it together. Then I'll help seal it up with some electrical tape as well. We'll separate these two, and look white and purple wires. Now, the white wire's going to be a ground since you can see it has a ring terminal on it. That'll go to ground, that'll go to sheet metal on the bottom of the van. Now, our purple wire here is typically used as an auxiliary circuit. Maybe one example would be for reverse light, if your trailer uses that. For our install today this will not be used. I'm going to take some tape, just put some lose wraps around it to help keep it under control. I'm going to take up some of my slack here and go over to the end of the bodywork right here. We'll install a ground using a self-tapping screw. This does come with the kit, and we're using a 3/8 nut driver to install it. I will drill it out first, then install my ground wire. Now, our next two wires are our black and blue wires. Our black wire is going to be typically used for a 12 volt power supply to be used on a trailer. Our blue wire here is going to be used from the output from our Venturer Brake Controller. Now, our gray cable that comes with the kit will attach to these two wires. Here's our gray cable. We'll go ahead and work with it now. We'll go ahead and strip this sheath off the wires, and we'll get them ready to install. Let's go ahead and add the two last wires on our 7-pole connector. Now, it's obvious that we're not going to have a color-for-color match, but we can go black-to-black, and white-to-blue. We'll run this up towards the front eventually to our brake controller. We've got to remember we'll have one white wire going to our output, and that'll eventually go back to blue on our brake controller. Now, let's go ahead and take our gray cable. We'll go ahead and route it over and behind the hitch in preparation for running it towards the front of the vehicle. Now, we'll go ahead and take a few moments to bundle up our wires and secure them. We'll also use some more electrical tape to help bundle them together. We can use some of the included loom material to help hide the color of the wires as we tuck it up in there. All right, now we'll go ahead and just simply zip tie our wires to our hitch. Now, the zip ties that come with the ETBC7 kit are a little on the short side for this, so it's a good idea to go ahead and get some longer zip ties to go around the hitch and hold everything in place. Okay, we'll go ahead and cut off the tails. Then, we can go ahead and continue running our gray cable going up towards the front of the vehicle. When we do that, we want to make sure we stay away from anything moving like suspension components, or anything hot like the exhaust. Once we get to the engine compartment we also want to make sure we stay away from the steering components as well. Next, we'll go ahead and show you how we routed our cable. Now, everybody's going to do this just a little bit different, but we'll show you how we did ours. Okay, starting from the hitch, worked our way back, used another long zip tie to attach it to the part of the hitch right here, and then we just went ahead and above and beside this suspension, diverted it through some lines and wires where ever we could. There's a pocket behind the shock tower we ran our wires through. Eventually worked our way back down to the parking brake cable, followed that along to the other side of the well here. Then we just followed the brake lines from here on out up to the front towards the engine department. Next we'll go ahead and use a pull wire to help pull these wires up to the top. Now, the pull wire I'm using is just an old piece of airline tubing, but you can also use a piece of wire or any type of material that'll hold its shape as you work it down towards the bottom. We basically stayed on the right-hand side of the brake reservoir here and stayed close to the firewall and worked our way down. Okay, and then we'll go ahead and underneath attach our wire and pull back up. We'll go ahead and connect our gray cable to our pull wire and push it up through. We'll go ahead and take up the slack and make sure none of this gets caught up down below. Okay, once we pull out all the slack, we'll go ahead and zip tie it to this wire here to help keep it from falling back down. Now with this wire here, we need to go ahead and cut it to length. Remember, our black wire is going to go to our 12 volt power supply, and then our white wire is going to go to our brake controller. This is the time when you can split the two off. What I'm going to do is just basically route my wire on the outside to about where the bottom of the dash is. It'll be a little more a direct route, so we'll have a little extra built into it. We'll just go ahead and cut it off. Okay. This will be used for our two circuits, and then our excess, we need to keep that because that'll be used for our power suppl and ground going to our brake controller. Let's go ahead and remove the sheath from our wires now so we can split the two up. Let's go ahead and take our white wire, and we're just going to push that to the side for now and not worry about that. We'll concentrate on our black wire for our 12 volt power supply going back to our trailer. Now, we need to run that through a circuit breaker. The ETBC7 kit comes with three circuit breakers. A 40 amp circuit breaker is typically used for a 12 volt power supply for a trailer, and then there's two other circuit breakers that may require a 20 amp or a 30 amp. In this case we're going to use a 20 amp circuit breaker. We're going to install these guys right here. We'll cut away some of this insulation material here, and go ahead and use the provided self-tapping screws to attach it to the sheet metal behind it. Go ahead and put our circuit breaker in place and attach it. For our second one, we'll overlap the hole on the first one. Let's go ahead and route our wire and cut off the excess one more time. The black wire will go to our circuit breaker here for 40 amp. Let's go ahead and run it through there for length, and give us some extra length to go to the positive side of the battery. We'll go ahead and cut off the excess, and then we're going to cut this in half where it meets the circuit breaker and add two small ring terminals that come with the kit. Let's go ahead and take the nuts off the post here. Okay, now these post are labeled. One goes to battery, it's labeled BAT. Our other one is labeled AUX, and that'll go to our trailer. Let's go ahead take our wire that'll eventually go to our trailer, that one there. Then, the wire going to the battery will go on the lower post. We'll go ahead and tighten those down with a 3/8 socket. We'll grab the other end of our wire here, and we'll go ahead and add one of the large ring terminals that comes with the kit. This will be eventually connected to this post right here on the battery on the positive side, but I like to wait till I have all the other circuits installed and ready to go before I make my final connection here. All right, now our white wire needs to be pulled to the inside of the vehicle for eventual use for our brake controller. We also need to pull our excess wire that we cut off earlier. To do that, we're going to make a hole in the grommet from the inside, get our pull wire one more time, and use it to pull all three of these wires back to the inside, this one wire and the two contained in here. Now, this is the grommet that we're going to use to run our wires through. I'm just going to use a flat blade screwdriver, and I'm just going to go ahead and push it through a grommet here. It's two layers, you have to go through the first layer and then a second layer. You probably have to go at it a few times to make sure the hole's big enough to run your wires through. If you go up in an upward motion, you'll be away from the wires. Also, it helps to go a little bit at a angle towards the left-hand side because the brake booster is right next to it. Once you've made your hole we'll go ahead and take our pull wire and run it through. Okay, let's go to the other side and pull it out. Let's go ahead and pull out our wire, and we'll go ahead and attach our single white wire. We'll go ahead and use some tape on it. We'll try to make this as thin as possible by staggering the wires to make it easier to pull through the hole. Okay. Actually, a little bit of spray lubricant like silicone spray or even some dish soap will help pull this through the grommet as well. We'll just pull through. We're going to have just enough access to get to it. Okay. Let's leave these wires alone for now. We'll go ahead and set up the power for our brake controller on this cable here that's still in the sheath. Back underneath the hood, let's go ahead and separate the two wires. All right, the same thing as before. We'll go ahead and take our black wire here for our brake controller. Now, this is power. This will go through this circuit breaker through and out to the positive side of our battery. We'll strip our wires back and add two more small ring terminals. Top one, once again, will be labeled for our auxiliary, and then our bottom one is labeled for our battery. Now, I'll take a black wire and add a large ring terminal to the other end again. Since that's going to the positive side of the battery, we'll go ahead and leave that alone for now as well. Now this white wire here will be a ground for our brake controller. We'll make a short hop to this post right here off the negative side of the battery. We can go ahead and hook this guy directly up. This post doesn't come with any hardware to attach it, so we'll have to use a new nut. The nut we're using is an 8mm zinc plated hex flange nut, part number 185917. We're getting close to the end by installing our brake controller soon, however our wires here need to interface with this port right here. To do that, we're going to use an adapter cord, part number C51515. This doesn't come with the brake controller or with the ETBC7 kit. This is perfect for a hard wire situation like we have here. These wires will connect up to this, and then we have this end here that'll plug into our brake controller. Let's go ahead and work with the adapter cord first. Now, our cord has four wires, we have three here. This red wire gets attached to the cold side of the brake switch, so when we hit the brake pedal, this will send a signal off to the brake lights. We'll get a copy of that signal here into our brake control. We'll set that aside for now. These three wires, black, white and blue will connect up to these three wires. We'll go ahead and get our wires ready by installing some butt connectors that come with the ETBC7 kit. Let's go ahead and work with our wires that we added earlier, and we'll go ahead and work with them one at a time. Remember, our single white wire that came from our 7-pole connector out back We'll get that one done and out of the way. Now, go back to blue to our brake controller. Then, from here it's a matter of stripping these wires out and matching them color-for-color for our remaining two butt connectors. Next, we'll go up to the brake switch and find the cold side of it on the wire and then we'll attach the red wire to that wire. Next we'll go ahead and test our wires. The kit does come with a simple tester you can use to ground to the sheet metal over on the left-hand side. We'll clamp it there, and you can use this to pierce the wires from the brake switch right here, and you can test which wire. I'm actually going to use a little bit different one so it'll be easier to see. We've found out that if we use the white wire with the green stripe, it's active when we hit the brake pedal. Now I know which wire it is, we'll use a quick splice connector to tap into it. We'll take our quick splice connector, we'll go ahead and snap it over the wire we want to tap into first. Then, we'll take the red wire, put it right next to it and then squeeze the metal clip to complete the connection. Let's use our little tester here. Press the brake pedal to make sure we've got power. Okay, so it looks like our connection's good. Finally, we can get to work with our brake controller. I'll go ahead and put our bracket up into place. We're going to align it with this edge right here, and we'll go ahead and use the screws that come with it to attach to the bottom of the plastic. Okay. Once we have one screw set, we'll go ahead and make any adjustments, and then we'll install the second screw. Now we'll go ahead and mount our brake controller. The same two set of screws will go into these pre-existing holes on the side of the brake controller. It'll also go into these plastic mounts located on the bracket. You can go up and down with these and adjust them. If your dash is a little bit at an angle, you can go ahead and make an adjustment with this and make up for it. Now, if you run out of room for a screwdriver, you can also use a 1/4" wrench. I'm actually using a 1/4" ratchet wrench. I think I'll take ours and attach it to the bottom as close as we can. Let's go ahead and plug our brake controller into our adapter cord now. I'm going to use some leftover material from the ETBC7 kit, the loom, to cover up these wires. Okay, so with all our connections complete underneath the dash, let's go ahead and go back out towards the battery and hook up our power wires. Let's go ahead and loosen up this nut right here. We'll add our two power wires. Let's do a quick check, move the manual override on our lever. It shows we've got power, and then we'll hit the foot brake. It shows we got signal there, a little green indicator. That looks good. Let's go ahead and plug up a trailer to it and verify it that way as well. Okay, let's go ahead and hit the manual override. You can see we have that dot changes to bars, so it knows it has a connection to a trailer. Try the foot brake, same effect. It looks like everything's working on our brake controller. That'll do it for the Curt Venturer Trailer Brake Controller, part number C51110 on our 2010 Chrysler Town and Country. .

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Test Fit:
Joe V
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Installed by:
Jeff D
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Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
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Kathleen M
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Randy B
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