Curt Custom Underbed OEM-Style Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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Curt Custom Underbed OEM-Style Gooseneck Trailer Hitch - 32,500 lbs

186 reviews

Code: C60642

Retail: $1,004.95

Price:  $762.95

• Gooseneck Hitch
• Below the Bed
• Manual Ball Removal
• 32500 lbs GTW

• Removable Ball - Stores in Truck
• 2-5/16 Hitch Ball
• CURT

Easy-to-install gooseneck hitch can be mounted by 1 person without an extra set of hands. Pop-in ball is easy to lock in place and remove for unobstructed access to truck bed.

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How to Install the Curt Custom Underbed OEM-Style Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2020 Chevrolet Silve

Clayton: Hey everyone. How's it going Clayton here at etrailer.com. Today, we'll be taking a look at, and I'll walk you through how to install the Curt under-bed OEM style gooseneck hitch on a 2020 Chevrolet, 2,500. You might be looking to get a gooseneck hitch to tow a trailer, a camper, or anything like that. And this is a really good kit. I really like it because the ball is really easy to take out.

All you got to do is twist this around, wiggle it and it comes right out. And then our safety loops are sprung down. So it looks nice in the bed of our truck. This is a super easy kit to install. There's not a whole lot of drilling.

Our hitch is going to be constructed out of steel. It has a really nice black powder coat finish, and that's going to help resist rust and corrosion over time.You don't see much of it, but I promise it's protected underneath our truck bed. As far as our weight capacities are concerned, the gross towing weight is 32,500 pounds. Keep in mind, that's the weight of the trailer and the load included. And our vertical load limit is going to be 8,125 pounds.

So that's the weight pushing straight down on our hitch. To get this thing installed, it's really not bad. Like I said, there's no drilling other than the holes in the bed, mounts up super simple, and you can definitely do it at home in your driveway. Speaking of installation, I'll show you how to get it installed now.To begin our installation, we're going to remove our spare tire our directions say we don't have to, but I highly recommend it just for a little bit more extra room. After you get your spare tire removed, we'll go ahead and remove our heat shield.

Here's going to use a 13 millimeter socket.You repeat that process for our heat shield located right above our exhaust with our heat shield removed. We now need to take down this bracket that holds up our wiring. That's going to give us just a little bit more clearance when we're installing all of our brackets. So actually we're going to be removing this bolt and this bolt here, this is going to use that 10 millimeter socket. That should give us just enough room to get everything installed. If you're having trouble getting this wiring harness out of the way to have enough room, you can go ahead and remove this bracket. You're going to use a T30 torx bit on these bolts on top. As you can see I already have one almost all the way out, but there is going to be two bolts.Now we can go ahead and bend that bracket out of the way. We are going to have to lower down our exhaust, just to get a little bit more clearance and we'll grab a strap, put it through a hole in the frame rail here, run it along the other side and do the same thing. We'll go ahead, tighten that down. And then we can remove our rubber isolators. Now we're ready to install our bracket. As you can see, we had to bend their heat shield back a little bit. That'll give us just enough clearance to get this in there. I do suggest starting with the driver's side, that way you have a little bit more room to work, to get it around our fuel tank. Once you get it set up there, we'll have to shake it around and move it, just to get it all in position to where it'll line up correctly.You do want to make sure that you have your carriage bolts installed before you put these brackets on. It's going to be hard to work around the bed and this bracket to get those bolts on. Now we can go ahead and slide our passenger side into place. Now with our carriage bolts dropped through, we're ready to lift our centerpiece up into place. You do want to make sure to put this locator on there first, that's going to help us locate where to draw our hole later. I do suggest grabbing an extra set of hands to help us lift our centerpiece up into place, because it is hard to work around our axle. Now we'll go ahead and lift this into place.We have one hex nut started on each side. I'm going to go ahead and add our other bolt to each side. Once I get those on I'm going to leave them loosely installed until we get the rest of our hardware. Our next step is going to be loosely install our carriage bolts. For now, we're just going to slide these through our hitch and our brackets. You might have to lift up on your hitch to get it to seat correctly, put all the four on this side and the three on this side. After we get all those carriage bolts set in place, we'll come back and add our hex nuts. We do want to install everything loosely, make sure it all aligns properly, and then we'll come back and tighten it all down later, there is going to be seven hex nuts. Next we're going to take out our wheel well liners.It's going to be a lot easier to get to our frame rail with these out. We are going to use a T15 torx bit. All you have to simply do is pull your wheel well liner out. There's going to be one more push pin up here that's going to thread off. Now we can go ahead, take these out and set it off to the side. You're going to want to do this on both sides. Here on our driver's side, I went ahead and put this bracket on. I'll show you how to do it on the passenger side. And this is what the driver's side is going to look like near complete. We have all of our hardware loosely installed. We did use that fish wire on this one. We did a reverse fish wire and I'll show you how to do that on the passenger side.I wanted to go ahead and get these two bolts started to keep our plate from sliding around. Now we can go ahead over to the passenger side and I'll show you how to get it installed. On the passenger side, we can go ahead and hold up our outer frame bracket. And we want to make sure that this hole line up with those weld nuts and that this bottom hole down here lines up with that hole in our frame rail. We're going to reverse fish wire, our spacer block and bolt there, and then add our hardware and our bracket to the inside. To do a reverse fish wire. We're going to take our coil, then slide our spacer block on. Then we can thread on our carriage bolt provided in the kit, and we're going to go to that hole, insert the bolt, push in the spacer block and pull it all through.So we can slide that carriage bolt in, add our spacer block, then come back and pull everything through. I'm going to go ahead and thread this through the hole in our bracket, and then we can get our other hardware for the back and get this thing supporting itself. We can go ahead and add our long carriage bolt to the side of our bracket, slide on our tube. And we we'll take our bracket, push it up into place, pull that carriage bolt through. And then we can go ahead and put our bracket on our other side. And if you're having trouble holding it and getting your bracket on the other side, you can take your hex nut, thread it onto the strong bolt, hand tight, and then the bracket will hold itself up and we'll still have room to adjust it. And before we get that bracket put on the other side, we are going to need to get another long carriage bolt in our long tube here and slide this through, add the tube. And now when we put that other bracket on, it'll be able to hold itself up.Now that we have all of our hardware loosely installed, we'll grab our hex bolt, put on our lock washer and then a flat washer and we'll get the four bolts started on the passenger side. And then once those are hand tight, we'll go ahead and move over to the driver's side to get that one finished up.So we're going to grab a 24 millimeter socket. I went ahead and stuck a little paper towel in there just to hold that bolt. Now we don't have to worry about it falling off. You can go ahead get this one started and if it's not wanting to thread. You can always go and clean it out because it is probably filled with paint. So it will just push up, get it started, and we'll repeat that process for this bolt as well. Now we have all of our hardware loosely installed. I did want to come back, take this off and install our bracket. I just waited to do this, that way we'd have a little bit more play. So now I can go ahead and get this bracket installed. We're just going to take the hardware off.Then you'll have to lift up and push the hardware in. I now have all of our hardware completely tightened down. It's time to go in and torque it down now. If you read your instructions, there's a certain sequence to torque down your hardware and all those torque specs and order will be listed in your instructions. Now we have all of our hardware torqued down. So I'm ready to drill our hole, remember we had that blue template inside of our biggest ball mount. We're going to go ahead and drill that out. And then we'll drill out our safety loop holds. We're going to grab a long drill bit, find our hole and drill very slowly.You do want to make sure that Your drill bit is straight. Now we need to go ahead and make our markings to drill our pilot holes for our safety loops. I'm just going to take a drill bit, the same size of the hole, make a dent, come back and drill a pilot hole and then I'll come up and drill everything through the top. You repeat that process for other three holes.Now on the top of our truck bed, we can go ahead and finish drilling out our pilot holes. So we have our first two holes drilled then we want to take our safety loops and make sure that those fit. In this case they do. So we know we're good. Now we can go ahead and hit this with some clear coat and make sure to get a few angles because it'll just prevent any rust over time. You want to repeat that same process for these two holes over here. All right, now we're ready to cut our center hole. I do suggest grabbing a piece of wood and cutting a hole in it with your hole saw, and then you can use it as a guide and that'll help us keep from skipping around and we can make sure we get a clean cut. So you do want to get that lined up, then we can stand on the other side. Then start slowly and let the saw do the work.Now we're going to go ahead and file it all down. Just make sure we have a nice clean edge. After hitting it with some clear coat to prevent any rust, we can go ahead and mount up our safety loops. We can go ahead, drop our loops in from the top and then we'll add our hardware from the bottom. Now to set up our safety loops, we'll add a washer, our spring, another washer and then a hex nut provided. This can be tough as the spring wants to push our hardware away from us.We'll repeat that process for this one and then these two and then we'll come back and tighten them down. We're going to go ahead and tighten these down. We want to tighten it up toward the bottom of that pin till it's flush with the bottom of our nut. With our bolts tightened down. We can go ahead, re-install our fender liners, re-hang our exhaust, get everything tightened back up, put in this heat shield. And then we can put our ball on. We're going to pull up on this tab and turn it, drop the ball in. We're ready to hit the road. That's going to do it for a look at and installation of a Curt under-bed gooseneck hitch on a 2020 Chevrolet, 2,500 HD..