Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Underbed Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2011 Ram 3500

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How to Install the Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Underbed Gooseneck Hitch on a 2011 Ram 3500


Today on our 2011 Ram 3500, we're going to be installing Curt's Double-Lock Flip and Store Underbed Gooseneck Hitch with installation kit. You could also pick up just the hitch separately or just the installation kit by itself.This is what our hitch is going to look like when it's installed. You have your flush-mounted gooseneck ball insertion point here with your safety chain loops on each side. The safety chain loops are spring loaded to help keep them drawn down in the bed of the truck when not in use to help maximize your truck bed. Additionally, the hitch ball can be pulled out and placed upside down, further maximizing your use of your truck bed. It's going to allow you to haul your gooseneck trailer, and it has a 7,500-pound ton weight.

That's the force going down on top of the receiver, and a 30,000-pound gross towing capacity. That's how much it can pull behind it. You do want to verify in your vehicles owners manual that you don't exceed any of its towing capacities.We'll begin our installation at the back of the vehicle by cutting out our hole for our gooseneck. You'll want to refer to your instructions for the appropriate place to make your mark because it's going to vary depending on the length of your truck bed. Once you've got your mark made, we're going to start by drilling a 1/4" pilot hole, and we're going to switch to a 4" hole saw to complete our cut.We can then clear coat the whole to help prevent any rust and corrosion.

Now, on your inner fender, why you're going to need to remove one of these plastic panels here. There's a couple of push pins that hold it in. Just take those out, set it aside. It may help if you take the plate on this side off as well. Give you a little more room to see.

We can now slide our cross rails in. Now, it is going to be tight, and if necessary, you may need to use a pry bar or a crescent wrench or something to give you that additional clearance to get this in. Additionally, if you get it started right there, you can use the beam itself to kind of pry up to allow you to slide it all the way in.When we're sliding this one in, we want to make sure the holes are facing towards the rear of the vehicle. Now, we'll use the same location where we bent it up the side in our next rail. This time, we went the holes to facing towards the front of the vehicle.

This one's going to slide towards the rear. Now, we'll separate these. One's going to go towards the rear, one's going to go towards the front, with your holes being towards the center.Next, we're going to put our U-bolt in place. It's going to go on the frame here, but you cannot pinch any of your hoses or wires underneath the U-bolt. So, we need a pair of needle nose or side cutters, whichever you've got. You could use a trim panel tools to remove the clip for the wiring there. Then we can get our U-bolt in place. We need to make sure that it's on both sides of the frame, from the inside out.Take four of the 1 1/2" carriage bolts, and place the spacers on them like this. Because the customer had an aftermarket exhaust system, it had to be removed. If you have a factory exhaust system, you can follow your instructions as normal. We can now raise our center section into place. You want to make sure that it's offset towards the rear like we have it here. We'll take those bolts that we prepared. We're going to slide it through our member, and then we're going to place a flange nut on the other side. We're going to do this three more times with the remaining holes.Now, we'll slide our rear cross arm forward. We're just going to insert the same size carriage bolt but no space on it through the holes, and follow that with a flange nut. We're going to do the same with the three remaining holes on the rear. Next, we'll assemble our side plates. Starting with the driver's side plate, you want to lay it down flat with the ears facing up, then you're going to take your other piece of your side plate with the angle going down, and it's going to sit like this. You'll place a carriage bolt through it like that. These are the shorter carriage bolts that come in the kit, and place a flange nut on the other side. Our passenger side is going to assemble very similarly with the flanges is up. And then the other piece here, having the flange down. We'll attach it with the same bolts that we used on the driver's side.We'll now remove our bump stops. You're going to use a 15-millimeter socket to remove those. There's going to be a bolt on each side. We're going to remove both bump stops, one on each side. We can now lift our side plate up into position. When we do so, we want to line up the new bolt so that way it slides through the upper and lower holes in our bracket. Then we're going to loosely thread a flange nut onto our U-bolt, both the top and bottom.If you're pinching your wire here, you may need to loosen this to rotate it into the slot so that way you don't pinch it. You can go ahead and leave this loose for now. Just make sure you tighten it back down once you've got everything else in place so you can ensure that you don't pinch it. Now, we're going to place our rear U-bolt in. Just like the front, it's going to go from the inside of the frame like that. Make sure you don't pinch any wires. Then you're going to need to place a spacer on it. We want the small cutout here to be towards the top, so that way we clear for this bolt here. So, we're going to slide that on. And now our U-bolt can slide through the side frame bracket. We're going to once again secure that using flange nuts.Next, we're going to reinstall our bump stop, but we're going to be using the hardware that comes in the kit. You're going to take the skinnier bolts, place the conical tooth washer on them with the teeth facing up away from the head of the bolt, and just reinstall these right into the factory weld nuts. Now, we can take the 1 1/2" carriage bolts that come in the kit, the other spacers that are a bit offset. We're going to slide this from the inside out and put a flange nut on the other side. This is going through the side plate first and then our cross member that's holding up our center section. We're going to do the same thing with the rear portion of it as well.We'll now repeat this exact same process on the other side, starting with putting the U-bolt in in the front just like we did on this side. We can now go back and tighten down all of our hardware. You're going to use a 3/4" socket to tighten down all of the nuts. You may need a wrench for a few of the tighter bolts like the one here towards the front at the top. Don't forget your hitch. It's going to use the same 3/4" socket. Then we'll tighten down our jounce bumpers. This is going to use a 17-millimeter socket. Next, we'll torque all of our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. Now, we're going to insert our release handle. That's going to go through the hole located here.In order to get the release handle to operate, we're going to need to cut out some of the section here. We're just going to use some tin snips to trim that out. We can then slide our handle in. Continue bringing the handle in. Once you've got it lined up with the holes, we're now going to insert our locking pin. That's going to slide into your hitch there. We can then place our spring on, slide our release handle all the way down, lining up the holes there at the top. You can then use the small bolt and nut. They come in the kit. Slide it through, and attach the nut. We'll then tighten that down with an eight millimeter. We don't need it to be super tight. It's an eye lock nut, so it's not going to come undone. It's just there to secure the handle to the locking mechanism. You just want to verify that it's working. Pull it out. Give it a little twist. It should lock in place. Twist it back. Ensure that it springs back in.Now, we're going to drill out our holes for our safety chain loops. You've got two sets on each side. You want to make sure that you choose the set that's flush with our rails here. See how it's raised here and flush here, so we're going to be using the outer set. We'll then take a 1/2" drill bit, and we're just going to drill up through the opening. We're now going to repeat this for the other hole on this side and the two on the other side.Now, back up top. We're going to take our safety chain U-bolts. We're going to slide them down through the holes we just drilled. We're going to do that for each one. Now, back underneath, we're going to take our U-bolts that we just slid through on top. We'll add a flat washer, a spring, another flat washer, and a lock nut.We're going to do this for the other side of this U-bolt and the other U-bolt on the other side. We can now go back and tighten them down until the nut is flush with the bottom of the bolt. We're going to use a 3/4" socket to do this. If you want to put it on, there is a rubber strip that comes with it that you can wrap around your hole that you had cut. And if you put that on, you simply spread it apart at one end, slip that end on, and then just work your way around.We can now place our chrome ring on the top, take the small Allen Head bolts, and thread those down into the hitch. We'll then tighten it down with a three-millimeter Allen wrench. We can now vacuum up our metal shavings and insert our gooseneck hitch ball, release the lock for our hitch ball, and now we're ready to hook up our gooseneck trailer and hit the road.That completes our installation of Curt's Double-Lock Flip and Store Underbed Gooseneck Hitch on our 2011 Ram 3500.


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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Dustin K

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