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Curt Class III Trailer Hitch Installation - 2021 Mercedes-Benz GLC

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How to Install the Curt Class III Trailer Hitch on a 2021 Mercedes-Benz GLC

Hey everybody, how's it going Today, we're gonna be going over and showing you how to install the Curt trailer hitch receiver here on a 2021 Mercedes-Benz GLC 300. So this is what our trailer hitch is gonna look like installed. Now, thankfully, the majority of it is actually gonna be hidden behind the bumper there. Therefore, we're gonna get a very factory like appearance. So the part that we can see, the receiver tube, it's gonna be tucked back behind our bumper here and it has a black powder coated finish that's gonna help it blend in with the vehicle well and also help protect it from rust and corrosion. So adding a trailer hitch to your GLC, it's gonna be an excellent option because it's gonna make your vehicle that much more versatile.

Now we can obviously use a trailer hitch for towing, but if we wanted to hit the trails or free up some space inside the vehicle for those long road trips, we could easily attach either a hitch mounted bike rack or hitch mounted cargo carrier. So, in regards to towing the actual hitch is gonna be rated for 6,000 pounds of gross trailer weight. That's the amount we can pull outward on the receiver tube and it also has a 900 pound tongue weight rating that's gonna be the downward force on the receiver tube. Now keep in mind, these ratings are for the hitch only. The vehicle is tested separately.

So we wanna go ahead and verify your owner's manual and towing capacity of the vehicle, and then abide by the lower of the two rated components whether it's the vehicle or hitch. So if we take a look at the side of the receiver tube, you're gonna see here we have our industry standard 5/8 inch diameter hitch pin hole that'll accept our standard 5/8 inch diameter hitch pin and clip. Keep in mind that's gonna be sold separately, most bike racks and cargo carriers, however do come with their own. On the bottom of the receiver tube, you can see we have our safety chain tabs welded on there. Those are gonna work with both the larger style clevis hooks as well as the smaller style S hooks.

So now we have a couple of measurements for you guys here that are gonna help you when you're selecting your hitch mounted accessories. The first one is gonna be from the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening. That's gonna be right at 12 inches and that'll be useful when you're selecting your ball mount that way you can make sure you get the correct rise and drop to tow your trailer level. The other measurement we have for you is the distance from the center of the hitch pin hole to the outside edge of the bumper. And this vehicle here is probably about seven inches.

So you will want to keep that in mind when you're selecting your folding accessories. That way you can make sure that while they're in the stowed position, that they don't contact the bumper. So in regards to installation, it's really not that bad. We don't actually have to remove the entire bumper, just this lower section here. We really should only need some common hand tools nothing too specialized. We can actually go ahead and walk you through this entire process step-by-step now. So to start our installation out, we're actually gonna be lowering our exhaust here just slightly. Before we do that, we need to take some sort of support mechanism and support the exhaust so it doesn't fall down too much cause any damage. So if you guys are working on the ground, you could just use a couple blocks of wood or a set of jack stands. Since we're in the air, we're gonna be using a cam buckle strap. We're simply just gonna pick two points on the frame here, attach it to one side and then pull the strap to tighten it to provide some support for our exhaust here. So now on either side here, we're gonna be removing the hangers from the body. So in order to do that, the instructions call for a reverse torque socket. If you don't have one of those, we actually don't have one either here, so what we're gonna be using is a 12 point 10 millimeter socket and that works just as well. You just gotta be a little bit more careful. But we have two brackets and one bolt on either side there. You can see once you remove that bolt, those are just gonna drop down. So now, we're gonna come back just a little bit behind our muffler here, about where our rear differential is. We're gonna have one rubber hanger here, we need to break free from the isolator. So we're gonna go ahead and spray it down with just some lubricant, make things a little bit easier. And then we can either use an exhaust hanger removal tool or an actual pry bar to free that. So we actually have a specialized tool for that. So that's what we're gonna be using, but either way, you're just prying that metal stud from outside the rubber isolator here. We're gonna have a couple of fasteners, a few different types, holding the bottom lip of our bumper fascia to the vehicle. So there's gonna be a couple right here, we'll remove these with a 10 millimeter socket. And then we're gonna have a few of those pushpin fasteners as well. So in order to remove these, you're gonna take a small flathead screwdriver to pry down that center section. And once you get it loose, you can come back with an actual pry tool here, pry the center out and then the rest of it. We're gonna have another one behind this panel here sorta the between the tire and this little fabric. So the next thing we're gonna be doing is removing our heat shield. So you're gonna see, we have several fasteners along the center and outside edges. You need to remove all those with an eight millimeter socket And then, the heat shield to the actually just drop out. Now, if all of our fasteners removed, we should be able to remove our heat shield. It may take a little bit of maneuvering to get it free from the muffler here. Now that we have the heat shield off, on either side here, we're gonna have one of these standoff tabs and inside there, there's gonna be a bolt, we have to remove. We're gonna take a 10 millimeter socket. You'll simply loosen that up and you can see there that's gonna free the tab from the panel on our body. Now over here on the passenger side, we're gonna have two connectors here. They're attached to this little lower portion of the fascia. We need to go ahead and remove those. There's gonna be a locking tab on top of each one. So we're gonna take some sort of pry tool here. This is gonna pull that locking tab away to release the clips. And it should pull off or you might have to actually depress that tab. This tool kinda does both. And it looks like we have one little connector down at the bottom here, just simply attaching our wiring here to the fascia. So we're gonna take our pry tool to free that, just like that. Now we're gonna come to either side here. We're just gonna partially pull back part of our little fender trim here. So in order to do that, you're gonna take a plastic trim panel tool. Now we're gonna lift up to release the clips, give ourselves a little bit more room to work with. And then, there's actually a tab in the center of that clip that we're gonna depress and that'll allow us to remove it by pulling back without breaking it So it is kind of difficult just to pull it back, so you can locate that clip and then you can work it free. So there's one, we're gonna get a couple more. So on the top side of this lower plastic portion of the bumper fascia, we're gonna have one of those pushpin fasteners up in there. It's kinda hard to get to. You're probably gonna need an angle bit there, but it's gonna be removed the same way we've been removing them thus far. We're gonna pry that center section out and then we should be able to pull out both pieces. So now what we're gonna do is we're actually gonna be removing this lower section of the bumper fascia. So we've got everything pretty much done from the outside. There are, however, gonna be some clips along the inside edge that are holding this plastic part to the painted surface. So we're gonna have to go up in there and release those clips and we should be able to pull the bottom part of the fascia out in a way. So here's what those tabs look like. And you can see that little center section there moves up and down. You're gonna push that down and then you're gonna push out to sort of clear the opening here. We're gonna use one hand on the other side to sort of pull it and one of them to push that tab down to help release it. And then we're pretty much just gonna work our way to the other side, releasing all of those clips. So most of these clips, you're not going to be able to see, you're just gonna be feeling for them. I sort of following that line there or these two panels meet. So for these top ones here that are directly above the license plate, I wasn't able to actually reach them from the inside, so what I did is I came from the outside with the little plastic trim panel tool. And basically, you're just gonna be sneaking it between the two panels and then just sort of angling it down because what's happening is this little portion of the clip here, when that's up and its normal resting position, it's putting pressure on the backside of that bumper fascia. So it won't allow you to pull out. Therefore, you're gonna have to bend that down a little bit and then pull out. I only had to do that for these top two here that I couldn't reach. The rest of them, I was able to go up underneath and free those, but now you can see, we have all the clips removed, we are still holding on by quite a few of these little sensors, which are attached to this wiring harness. So I need to go ahead and treat each of those. There's gonna be a little locking tab on the back. We'll need to push out. Then we can depress the connector and pull it out similar to the process of how we remove the connectors over there. So now that we have our harness reach from the lower portion of the bumper fascia, we can go ahead and set this aside. So now what we're gonna do next is we're actually gonna be removing the bumper beam here. So in order to do that, you're gonna have one nut on the top of either side here. We'll need an 18 millimeter deep well socket. We can go ahead and remove each of those. So now, if we come to the bottom side of the bumper beam facing the opposite way, we're gonna have another nut, again, one on each side. And once these are both off, then we can finally remove the bumper beam. So it looks like we do have some sealant behind the flange on our bumper beam here that sort of holding it to the body a little bit tighter than we'd like. So in order to get it removed, we're gonna take a flathead screwdriver. We're just gonna work our way around that, peeling back that sealant till we can finally break it free. So now we're gonna take our trailer hitch here and just simply set it on the two studs to position it on the vehicle. And it should hold it there because now we can come back with our bumper beam and set that over the trailer hitch. So now we're simply gonna secure our hitch and the bumper beam back to the vehicle using our factory hardware. And now with the hitch and bumper beam in position, we can go ahead and tighten and torque everything down to the specifications in our instructions. So the next thing we need to do is we're gonna have to actually trim the lower section of the bumper fascia here. So in your instructions, you're gonna get a nice little diagram we can use to make the appropriate cut out. So we just went ahead and marked that out for you, then we use some painter's tape to show you a little bit clear what we're actually gonna doing. Now, you can use a couple of different tools to cut this. You can use a cutoff wheel. We're gonna be using a pneumatic reciprocating saw. So really whatever you have on hand. Yours may look a little bit different than this. The instructions for this show a different one than ours. We actually don't have all that bracing in there, rather that they don't in the instructions and we do, so it looks like we have to cut through a couple of extra layers there, but there shouldn't be a problem. I just wanna take your time and get some nice, smooth, clean cuts. So we used our reciprocating saw to sort of get that bracing out on the inside. I think I'm gonna switch over to a cutoff wheel now to make a little bit of a cleaner cut. Once I get that section out, you can either come back with a file or actually like to use a razor knife and just clean up all those rough edges. So once we have the fascia trimmed, we can go ahead and reinstall it back onto the vehicle in the reverse order that we removed it. So the next thing we need to do is trim our heat shield. So one side here, is it gonna have this little standoff with our center hole. This is the side we're gonna be trimming. We're gonna use that center hole as our center point. We're gonna measure out a few inches on either side and then a little bit on top as well. So there's gonna be a good diagram in your instructions, which gives you this dimension. Now we'll go ahead and take a set of tin snips here. Make sure you have some gloves, this stuff does get sharp when we cut it. And we're just gonna go ahead and make the clearance here for our receiver tube. So now we're gonna go ahead and reinstall our heat shield here and then any remaining fasteners that we removed previously. And that's gonna do it today for our look and installation of the Curt trailer hitch receiver here on our 2021 Mercedes-Benz GLC 300..

Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L

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