Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 Hyundai Palisade

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2020 Hyundai Palisade


Hi there, Hyundai owners. Today on your 2020 Hyundai Palisade we're going to be taking a look and showing how to install CURT's Class 3 2" trailer hitch receiver. Your Hyundai Palisade's going to be a very capable vehicle that's going to handle pretty much all the tasks that you're going to want out of it, and so will this hitch. Being a 2" receiver, it's going to accept plenty of accessories, so whether you want to put a bike rack or a cargo carrier in it, you can easily load it up with four bikes or take some of the cargo you would have in your vehicle, put it on a cargo carrier, and free up the inside for more passengers. And since this is plenty substantial as far as its towing capacity, you could also bring a popup camper with you for the weekend, a boat, or even use a trailer to help somebody move.This is what our hitch is going to look like when it's installed. Our crosstube is going to be hidden behind the bumper so you're only going to see the receiver tube here at the back.

It does stick out a little bit but it's fairly well tucked up underneath so it doesn't detract too much from the looks of the vehicle. Now, if appearance is your biggest concern, then I would recommend Stealth Hitch over the CURT hitch here. The Stealth Hitch does have similar weight rating values but has removable receivers. It'll come with two if you purchase the tow package, which has a receiver end just like this, where you can put your accessories in. Then it also has a receiver that's just a ball for towing.

You do want to keep in mind that if you use the Stealth Hitch, the receiver end for accessories is only for accessories and not for towing. But if you just want your hitch to be there ready for you all the time, the CURT's going to be a great option because it installs, it's here, it's a very solid hitch.This hitch is Class 3 rated with a 2" by 2" receiver. It has a tongue weight of 750 pounds, which is the force going down on top of the receiver. Again, that's going to be more than enough for just about anything you're going to want to use on this. Cargo carriers typically don't have a weight rating over about 5, 550 pounds, so you could max those out, as well as your bike racks.

You could max those out with as many bikes as they can hold. It also features a 5,000 pound gross towing capacity, which is how much it can pull behind it. That's going to be plenty for your popup campers and trailer towing, whichever you need to do.We did mention that you can use a weight distribution system with it. We have those available here at etrailer.com if you're interested in those. They will take the weight off the back of the vehicle and help distribute it under the front to level your ride back out.

This improves the handling of your vehicle when towing. But with this hitch here, it does also increase the gross towing capacity from 5,000 pounds up to 6,000 pounds. Your tongue weight will remain the same. Now as always, I recommend that you verify in your vehicle's owner's manual and ensure you don't exceed any of its towing capacities.The receiver has a whole for a 5/8" hitch pin and clip. Now, one doesn't come included with the hitch but you can pick one up here at etrailer.com. On the bottom we have our safety chain loops, which is a hoop style, which is my preferred style as it has a larger opening in the middle. It's also a little bit thinner so it'll accommodate just about every shape, size, and style of safety chain.Now I've got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on accessories. From the center of our hitch pin hole to the edge of our rear bumper it's about 5-1/2". This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the bumper. From the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube, it measures about 13-1/2". This is important when determining if you need a drop, a rise, or a raised shank on any of your accessories. Since it is a bit on the lower side, I would recommend a raised shank on your accessories.Another thing I really like about this CURT hitch is how quickly and easily it installs. You do have to lower down your spare tire and exhaust to do so but then it just bolts up right into existing holds and weld nuts on the bottom. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's go over the installation together so you can have the confidence to do it at home.We'll begin our installation at the back of the vehicle with our lift gate open. If you open up the storage compartment, you'll access the area where we can lower down the spare tire. We need to get it out of the way to get our hitch up. There's a cover here. You just unscrew that, and that'll access the bolt that we need, which will lower down the tire. We'll use a 13/16 socket and just start unscrewing it. As you unscrew, the spare tire will drop down from underneath, and then we can slide that out of the way and set it aside.Next we'll need to lower down the exhaust to get clearance for our hitch to go up. But before we do that, we want to put a strap in place underneath to catch our exhaust, so that way it won't lower down too far and cause any damage. To lower down the exhaust there are three rubber isolators we're going to need to remove. You'll have one at the front side of the muffler towards the front of the vehicle, one at the back of the muffler, and then we'll have one at the center of the vehicle here. To get these removed, you can use some silicone spray that'll make them slide a little bit easier. Then we can just pry them off. Really just however you want to get in there to pry them, use your pry bar, you can just push them off in a lot of cases. If we just get in there and just give it a push, it'll just pop off. We're going to repeat that for the two remaining hangers. We can then use our strap to control how far down our exhaust goes.On the driver side, we'll need to remove the appearance panel that's underneath. There are push pins along the bottom we're going to remove. Use our flat bladed screwdriver. You'll see there's a little notch cut out that you can push the flat blade into. You can separate the inner pin from the outer pin and then it just pulls out. You can also use a trim panel tool, which works a little bit better than a screwdriver. Once all three of those are removed, there are two nuts in the cutout sections here that go straight up. We're going to use a 14mm socket to remove those. You might have to pull down a little bit as they're kind of like plastic push-on nuts. Sometimes they need a little bit of pressure to get them to unthread. Once you've got those removed, we can take our panel off and set it aside. We'll reinstall it at the end.We're now going to do a little bit of prep work before we put our hitch into place. We have bolts in our kit that will go into the weld nuts on the bottom. I recommend that you use some spray lubricant inside the holes and a bristled brush to clean those out just in case there's any dirt or debris that might be up in there. It may catch your bolt and make it difficult to install. By cleaning it out, that'll just ease the installation. Up above that, we'll also have two holes here. We'll have hardware that's going to slide through those. We don't need to clean them because nothing threads in there but I did want to point preparing the hardware. It's nice to have this already done before you start lifting your hitch up so you don't have to fight that.Our long bolts we're going to place a conical tooth washer on them with the teeth facing away from the head of the bolt. These are going to slide through our hitch here through these holes. Our smaller hardware we want to do the same thing. You'll also notice, though, that the washers are different sizes, so use the smaller washers with the smaller bolts and the larger washers with the larger ones. Now we're going to repeat that over here cleaning out the holes. Our attachment points are going to be the same on the other side as well.Now with an extra set of hands, we'll lift our hitch into position. You'll need to go up over the exhaust on the passenger side first. We're going to start with our long bolts. We're going to slide from the inside of the vehicle towards the outside, through the hole. Once you've got one slid through on each side, the hitch will hold itself up, making it easier to install the rest of your hardware. We've got one bolt slid in on each side to hold it up. Point out here that the other ones are going to be a little bit more of a struggle. You'll have a plastic piece coming down here. The bolt will go by it, but it's going to be a tight fit. I actually recommend just using a hammer and just gently tapping it by it. There we go.Then over here on the driver side, the bolt that's toward the read, we're having difficulty getting it in because it's hitting on the heat shield here, but it's okay. It will go in. You may need to use a little bit of extra force to get it in there but it's not going to damage your heat shield or anything so we're just using a punch with a hammer and just tapping it in.On the opposite side of the bolts where we slid through the hitch in the frame, we're going to place a conical tooth washer and then follow that up with a nut. We're going to do that for the three remaining bolts as well. Then on the bottom here we're going to take the smaller bolts that we prepared with the conical tooth washers on them and thread them up through the hitch into the bottom of the frame. We'll do this on the other side as well. We can then go back and tighten down our hardware.For the smaller bolts on the bottom we're going to use a 17mm socket. Then for the larger side bolts we're going to use a 19mm socket and wrench. We can then go back and torque all the hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. With everything torqued down, we can put our exhaust back into position. Spray lube works really well to get them reinstalled, so we're just going to go ahead and pre-spray them real quick. Then we can easily lift it up, line up the holes. With the lubrication on there, they just slide right back into place. We can now take our strap down, and then we'll reinstall the undershield on the driver side.The plastic nuts that are on here actually just push into place, so we don't need to thread those back on. We're just going to line this up. The studs that they we're on, you may have to finagle the top of it a little bit to get it to line up with the stud because of the bolt sticking through there. There we go. Then we can line up the other one so those just push right on. Then we can reinstall the push pins along the bottom side. These just push back into place. You start by pushing in the whole thing and then the center locks it in.Then we can reinstall our spare tire. With our hitch in place, the spare tire does still fit. You just want to pay attention when your screwing it back up. Then if it hits anything, just push it, finagle it out of the way so it goes back up against the bottom where it was before. I'm just turning it and just keeping an eye on it down there because it will fit with the hitch in place, but sometimes it catches on it and you just got to push it to make it uncaught. You can see there where it's pulling it down, that's where you just want to push that up so it doesn't catch on the hitch. That completes our installation of CURT's Class 3 2" trailer hitch receiver on our 2020 Hyundai Palisade.


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Info for this part was:

Video by:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
David F

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