Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 Chevrolet Traverse

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2020 Chevrolet Traverse

Ryan: Hey everybody. Ryan here at So now on our 2020 Chevrolet Traverse, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt Class III 2-Inch Trailer Hitch Receiver. Now the main difference with this hitch compared to some of the other ones out there is that this one is going to be for the most part completely visible. You're going to be able to see the cross tube as well as your receiver tube opening, but the cross tube does sit pretty far underneath the bumper and holds up pretty tight against the bottom of it, so it's really not going to be all that noticeable or at least stand out all that much.Now if you're looking for something that's completely hidden, there is a hitch available that sits behind the bumper. You would take this little access panel off and your receiver tube opening would be behind it, but at the end of the day it's really just your personal preference and what you're looking for as far as the appearance goes.And one of the things I really like about this hitch is how easy it's going to be to get to whenever you need to use it.

Since it is exposed, you're not going to have to worry about taking your panel off every time or worry about losing your panel itself. Now the hitch does actually come out relatively far, almost flush with the edge of the bumper, so this one should work really well for those folding accessories.Now this is a class three hitch, so it's going to have a two inch by two inch receiver tube opening and a reinforced collar for extra strength. It's going to have the standard 5/8 size pin hole. Now a pin and clip does not come included, but if you need one you can find it here at You're going to have a plate style safety chain openings, which are going to give us more than enough room to use just about any size hook that you might have.Now as far as the hitches weight capacities go, it's going to have a 750 pound maximum gross tongue weight rating.

So that's going to be the amount of weight pushing down on the hitch. So that's more than enough for just about any sized cargo carrier or bike rack. As far as the maximum gross trailer weight rating goes, it's going to be 5,000 pounds. That's going to be the amount of weight pulling on the hitch. So that's the weight of your trailer plus anything that you might have on it.

Now the hitch can be used as the weight distribution system, which is a separate component, but if you are using that, the maximum gross tongue weight rating will remain the same at 750 pounds, but the maximum gross trailer weight rating will increase the 7,500 pounds. And I do always like to point out, it's never a bad idea to check with your Chevy's owner's manual to make sure you can pull that much weight.Many Traverse owners use your SUVs to do a little bit of everything, and this hitch is going to help allow you to do that. It's going to be great whether you're pulling a trailer or if you plan on just using some accessories, either way, it'll get the job done. And I'm going to give you a couple of measurements and you're going to use these to help figure out which hitch mounted accessories to get. From the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening and it's going to be about 13 and a half inches and you're going to use that measurement to figure out if you need to go to ball mount with either a drop or rise.

From the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of our rear bumper, it's going to be about four and a half inches and you're going to use that to help figure out if any folding accessories that you might have can be stored in an upright position without contacting the bumper.Now as far as the installation goes, it is going to take a little bit of time, but I'll show you some tricks along the way to make it a little easier. Speaking of which, let's go ahead and put the hitch on together now. To begin our installation, we're going to be working underneath the back of our Traverse and since we're going to have to lower our exhaust a little bit, what I'd like to do is just take a strap and just run it from side to side, that way the exhaust will have a little bit of support. To get our exhaust lowered, if you look just above our tailpipe here and kind of back, there's going to be two 15 millimeter bolts that we'll take out and once we have these two out, we're going to do the exact same thing on the other side of the car.We're also going to have one rubber isolator hanger that we're going to need to remove. Now to get these off, what you want to do is spray them down with some soapy water or some penetrating oil just to make it a little easier. Then you can take a pry bar and pry off one end of that rubber hanger.The heat shield that sits just on top of our mufflers here, we got a couple of different options what we can do. You can either completely remove it or remove a fastener, that way we can still keep the heat shield in place. We're going to opt to just remove one of the fasteners, that way we can try to utilize and keep our heat shield. So the one that we're going to take out is this one right here and the way to get these is just take a pair of needle nose pliers, kind of put them into the openings and you can just get it removed. Usually once you get a couple of turns started on them, you can go in there by hand and get it loose in that way.I'm just going to do that same thing over on the other side too. With the exhaust kind of pulled down out of the way to get us some more room to work, what we're going to need to do is enlarge this hole here in the frame rail closest to the front of our vehicle. Now since we are going to have to make this hole relatively large, what I'm going to do is this cut out some of this heat shield here, that way we can see a little bit better and just make it a little bit easier to enlarge that hole. I'm just going to grab a pair of tin snips and I'm going to cut out an opening.So with the heat shield trimmed out of the way, you can now get our hole enlarged. Now we're going to have to make this hole big enough to take this because this is actually going to go up into the frame rail like so. So the hole is going to have to be relatively large and what I found it's best to take a little bit of material out on the side close to the front, but the majority of the material we're going to take out, it's going to be on this side and towards the back of our car. Now you can use a few different tools to enlarge this, a drill bit like a step bit is always a good choice, a hand file will do it as well, just take you a little bit of time. What I'm going to do is make the majority of our opening with a dremel tool here.Okay, now with our hole made since it is square, what I'm going to do is to use a die grinder bit here, you can also use a hand file, just kind of clean up any of the rough edges and what I'm going to do in the corners is just kind of round them out. With the whole made you want to verify that the whole entire nut plate is going to be able to fit inside and you don't want to push it all the way in just yet. And now that we know it is going to fit, since we have some bare metal here, what I'm going to do is just take a paint pen, just kind of cover that bare metal to help prevent any rust or corrosion, or you could also use spray paint, but since it is relatively close to the exhaust, if you do do that, I would recommend using some high heat paint. With the paint pan. At least we're going to have some coding on that bare metal.To get our hardware ready to put into the frame rail, what we're going to do is take the coiled end of a fish wire and if he come to this hole closest to the bumper, I'm going to take that coiled end, push it through that and get it to come out of the access hole that we just enlarged. So sometimes they'll drop right out, other times you might have to kind of reach up there and grab it and kind of help get it to drop through.So what we're going to do is grab our nut plate in the side with the square opening that's going to face towards the rear of the car and the side that actually has the nut on it is going to face towards the front of the car. You're going to want that nut, the higher portion to face up. So with that being said, how's this going to work is we're going to take our carriage bolt and drop that into the nut plate like this. Once you lift it up like so, and thread that carriage bolt into the coiled end of the fish wire. We're going to pull that carriage bolt back out of it just a little bit and then we're going to feed all of this up into the frame rail. So what I found is if you just get that nut plate started in there, and you kind of work the carriage bolt of with it, you're going to be able to angle it forward. And as you're pushing on the nut plate, you want to kind of pull the handle nut wire as well, kind of feed them together. And it should pop in there, then you can kind of pull down on that fish wire to get your carriage bolt to drop through.Now the other side of the frame rail is set up the exact same way. So once we have everything sitting like this, you're going to repeat that exact same process over on that side. So some of our customers said it would be helpful to actually know the size of the hole, that way you can get all the hardware in the frame rails and the size of the hole that I have here today that I made, it's going to be about an inch and a half long and 1 1/8 of an inch wide.Now before we put our hitch up, it will make life a little easier if we're able to kind of bend the bottom of our rear inaudible 00:11:46 a little bit. So on each side there's going to be a torch bit screw, so we'll go ahead and remove those. That way we can have a little bit of movement here. Now with an extra set of hands, he can get our hitch into position. You're going to want to take the pull wire, put it through that corresponding hole in the hitch. There you go. Over the exhaust. Then we raise it up. This little bracket here is going to go on the outside of our bumper support, so once you have it lined up, what you're going to do is remove this pull wire and you're going to take a flange nut, just get it hand tight. We're going to want to do this on each side that way the hitch will support itself.For this attachment point what we're going to do is take one of the hex bolts and a conical tooth washer. I want to make sure that the teeth on the washer are going to face up towards the hitch. And you can start to get that threaded into the nut plate that we put in. We'll get this one hand tight and use that same hardware combination on the other side.At this point we can grab a 19 millimeter socket and tighten down all of our hardware. I like to kind of rotate back and forth, that way the hitch will get pulled up evenly. Now before we actually torque down our hitch bolts. What I like to do is take the other bolts here that come included, that's going to hold our exhaust up and make sure that this opening here and our hitch lines up with those holes there. And so like I said, we'll grab our bolt and just want to make sure I can easily thread it into the hole. That way we know we're not going to have any issues when we go to hang our exhaust. If it doesn't want to fit, what you might have to do is loosen up your hitch bolts a little bit and maneuver the hitch either to the left or to the right, then you can tighten them up and check again until you're able to easily thread that in. Well, with that being said, we know ours lines up. We can grab a torque wrench and tighten down our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions.Now we can lift up our exhaust and bolt it back into position. Now since the hitch covers this one hole, the surface here is going to be uneven and so they're going to give us a little spacer block and this is going to sit right here, that way the exhaust hanger will sit nice and flush. So the easiest way I've found is to just take your spacer block, take your bolt, put your bolt through the hole and put that spacer block on the backside of it. It's kind of tricky to see, so you almost have to go off feel. Just kind of hold it in place and then you can raise your exhaust up and you'll feel it kind of fall into place, your bolt.So I like to get that bolts started by hand and then just tighten it a little bit. Once we have the one on each side, we can come back with just a regular bolt and get that going and on the other side of the hand. With all of the exhaust hanger hardware snugged down, we can come back in with a torque wrench to tighten it to the amount in the instructions.At this point you go ahead and reinstall your torch fit screws. These are a little tricky to get to because the hitch is right below them and I found an easy way to get them back in. And while you're threading it in, simply just kind of push from the outside towards the front and that'll kind of bend everything past the hitch to where you can get your bit in there and tighten it back down.Now back underneath our vehicle, we can put our rubber exhaust hanger back on. So again, I just kind of got it wet with some soapy water. We'll simply push back into place. And now that the exhaust is completely supporting itself, we can go ahead and remove our strap. And that'll finish up our look at in our installation of the Curt Class III 2-Inch Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2020 Chevrolet Traverse.

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