Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2011 Chevrolet Silverado - Curt

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How to Install a Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado

Today on our 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 with a 6 1/2 foot bed we'll be taking a look at and installing the CURT double lock flip and store under bed gooseneck hitch with installation kit, part number C607-604. Here's what our gooseneck is going to look like once it's installed. You're going to see that it's going to have a nice flush look on the back of the vehicle. Everything is going to be low profile, down in the corrugation, and you'll even have a cover over the top when you don't have any use and when it's in the stowed position. That cover is included. It's going to have a real easy installation. The only drilling is going to be to put that four-inch hole in the bed of the truck and the two holes for the chain tie-downs that are going to be spring-loaded on the sides.

Note those are chrome-plated as well to help reduce any kind of rust and corrosion. The under bed components are going to be black powder coating and heavy duty grade A bolts that are going to be zinc plated, which will all prevent any kind of rust and corrosion. The double locking pin is going to provide extra security. It is going to set the CURT apart from the competitors. All right, now we're ready to place our ball in. We'll go ahead and pull out on the handle on the outside and rotate it towards the driver side of the truck.

That'll lock it in place so we're able to pull it back out or flip it over singlehandedly with one-person operation. When you're ready to stow it, you just flip it over like so and you can retrieve it with the handle. Let's go ahead and put it in place and lock it in with that double pin. We'll rotate it back towards the back and let the pin slide in. See it's going to be nice and locked and secured. That 2 5/16 ball with 30,000 pound weight capacity isn't going to go anywhere.

We'll go ahead and pull it back out so we can flip it back over into the stowed position. Rotate it over. Notice that it's going to slide in where the pin's at on the side. Pull it out, drop it down, and then send the pin in. Now it's going to be nice and stowed away.

We'll go ahead and get our cover and put it over the top. Now let's go ahead and see how it's installed. First thing we're going to need to do is remove the spare tire. We've already gone and done that, so next we'll move on to removing the wheels for video purposes so it can be easy to see what we're doing. Now we'll go ahead and remove the spare tire heat shield that's located right here. I've already gone and loosened it just a little bit so it'll be easier for us to pull them out. Go ahead and pull them out the rest of the way, then the two bolts that secure it. Once you've got that pulled out, we'll go ahead and set it off to the side. Now we'll go ahead and either A, remove the heat shield that's underneath the bed of the truck, or trim it. Now we are going to end up trimming this one right on the edge of the crossbar right there and up near that rear support so we can place up our gooseneck. Let's use a pair of aviation tin snips. Always make sure that you wear gloves when you do this so you don't cut yourself as well. Once we get this cut out of here, then we'll come back and trim this up and make it look real nice. We'll go ahead and take that down. We can toss that since we're not going to be reinstalling it. Now we'll go ahead and take a 1/2 inch by 13 tap and we're going to tap out these threads, just because they've been powder coated. We want to clear out those threads so when we get it up in the truck it's going to be a real easy installation for us. Go ahead and get them started and run them through all 12 mounting locations. Here on the passenger side we're going to go ahead and install our rear cross arm now. Have the threaded holes facing towards the cab so that way when we get it into place we can rotate it up and slide it in. Set it in on its side. Slide it in between the frame and the bed of the truck. Rotate it up and into place. Once you have it rotated with the threaded holes on the bottom, you'll be able to slide it back. Now we'll go ahead and slide in our front crossbar. Now our front crossbar is going to have a notch cut out to go over the rear 00:05:14 tank or the fuel tank. Now that notch is going to be positioned on the driver side, so once we have it slid in we'll go back underneath and put that up right just like we did on the back one. Now on our passenger side we'll just take our passenger side bracket. It's going to have the gussets facing towards the outside. Slide it up in position to see where we're going to be fishing our wires through in our mounting points. We're going to have a mounting point here and here at the back. You can see how it's all going to line up, and you'll have your bolts that'll go through here to secure those side plates to those crossbars and two bolts coming through the frame, securing it with this being the access hole here to get your hardware in. Let's go ahead and get our hardware in. We'll go ahead and take our pull wire and feed it back to our access hole. We're going to make sure we don't pull it all the way through. We'll slide our block over our bolt leader and into the frame. Then we'll take our carriage bolt and thread it on. Once you have it threaded all the way down, go ahead and push it into the frame and pull it through. Now we'll go ahead and do the same thing on that front hole. There we go. Now that we have those both through, we'll go ahead and pull off the pull wires while we're holding onto it. Make sure that you unthread them because we will need to use these on the other side. Everything we do on this side is going to be the same on that driver side. Just make sure you don't push them back in. Now we'll put our side bracket up into place, or you can leave your pull wires on until after you have that done. They're going to be a little tight getting through there if you have the pull wires still attached. Place on our flange nut. It's going to have the teeth facing towards the side bracket. We'll just hand-tighten those down. Now let's go ahead and repeat that same process on the driver side. Now we'll go ahead and connect our side bracket to our crossbars. To do this, we'll use the 1/2 inch bolts, lock washer, and flat washer. Place it in and thread it in hand tight. It should go through with ease since we capped them out prior to placing the bars up. Now we can go ahead and place up our center hole template. You see that has an arrow and an F, so an arrow and the front crossbar. This will actually sit up in place like so. We'll use those same 1/2 inch bolts to go ahead and hold that template in place on the inside of the crossbars so we can pre-drill that hole. We'll line it up with that hole, place in our bolt, and push this side up. Line up the hole and place in our bolt. We'll go ahead and thread those down so they don't move. That'll be our center hole pre-drilled template. We'll go ahead and take our 1/4 inch drill bit, place it in the template, and drill it out. Next we can go ahead and remove the template and cut our 4-inch hole. We got our little template up here so we can spray paint our hole. That way we prevent any kind of rust and corrosion where we just drilled it out. Let's go ahead and give you a tech tip here. It'll be a little bit easier to get everything into place if we remove that exhaust, so what we're going to do is drop it down by lowering these hangers located here and directly in front of the crossbeam here. Use a little bit of spray lubricant, spray it down on both sides to help us slide it out, and the one on top up here. Go ahead and get a large pry bar to go ahead pull them off. Here's how our center section will get raised up into the bed of the truck. This part here, where our gooseneck will be going through, it's going to be towards the rear with the center hole here towards the front and our chain tie-downs towards the front of the vehicle as well. Go ahead raise it up into position and attach our rear crossbar first using 4 of those inch and a half hex bolts. All right, we'll go ahead and put one bolt in just for safety measures on that back side, followed by the other three to secure that back rail to our center section. Then we'll do the four on the front side. Now before torquing we're just going to make sure that it's centered up in our truck bed. Now we're ready to go ahead and torque to manufacturer specifications. First step in torquing in manufacturer specifications, we're going to go ahead and tighten the ones on the inside first, connecting that center section. Then we'll go ahead and torque those and then move out from there. Now we'll go ahead and torque our side plates to our frame, followed by the ones securing those crossbars. Now we'll go ahead and drill out our holes for our safety chain tie-downs. We're going to use the inner slots on both sides. We're going to drill through straight and center. It's a good idea to make sure that you still have the exhaust undone before we go ahead and drill out the chain tie-downs. That way you have clearance to drill the holes. Now we got our holes drilled for our safety chain tie-downs, we'll go ahead and put our U-bolts through. Make sure that they have enough play there, that they're going to be nice and easy going up and down and not catch. You'll also notice that it's going to be on the inside of the corrugation so when you place items in the bed of your truck they'll slide right over. Now the hardware that's going to go on our U-bolts, it's going to be a flat washer, our spring, another flat washer, and our lock nut. We'll go ahead and repeat this on the other three that we have to place on. Go ahead and tighten them down to where we have the blue lock of the lock nut a couple threads in. Now we can go ahead and place the handle and pin assembly into position. We'll slide the handle up through the driver side, line up the hole with the rod. Go ahead and and place on your flat washer. Once you have the flat washer on we'll go ahead and place in the pin, making sure that the hole side is on the top and all the way inserted. Next, we'll take our spring and our flat washer and put them into position. Go ahead and press the handle through until your holes line up. Place through the small bolt and the lock nut. Then we'll tighten that down. Now we'll go ahead and and reattach our exhaust, our heat shield for our spare tire. Go ahead and and put the tires back in place and put our spare tire back up into place. Let's go ahead and and start off with an exhaust. We'll lube it up to help us get it back on. That will do it for our review and installation of the CURT double lock flip and store under bed gooseneck hitch with installation kit, part number C607-604, on our 2011 Chevrolet Silverado.

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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Zack K
Video by:
Andrew K
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Michael B

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