Curt Double Lock, Flip and Store Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2015 Ford F-250 Super Duty

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How to Install the Curt Double Lock, Flip and Store Gooseneck Hitch on a 2015 Ford F-250 Super Duty


Ryan: Hey everybody, Ryan here at Etrailer.com. Today on our 2015 Ford F250 Super Duty, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt double lock flip and store under bed gooseneck hitch with insulation kit. Up top here inside of the bed, as you can see with our gooseneck installed, we didn't lose any of our valuable space. So whether you're helping a friend move, or just running around town, you're not going to have a big giant hitch taken up all your bed space. Now it is going to come with a two and five sixteenths ball, which is keyed. So that means you can only put it in one way, so there will never be any confusion on that.Now there is going to be a 7500 pound maximum vertical load, and that's gonna be the amount of weight pushing downward on our hitch.

And it's also going to have a 30000 pound maximum trailer load. So that's gotta be the amount of weight pulling on her hedge. Now it is always a good idea to check with your Ford's owner's manual to make sure your truck can handle that much weight. Another cool thing I really like is when you're not using it, you can actually store it in the gooseneck so that way you don't have to put it in your glove box and have it rolling around in your back seat. Just pull it out, grab it by a little handle and drop it back down into place.

They even give you a rubber plug put over it, that way it will help keep the weather out and give you a little cleaner look.My favorite thing about this gooseneck hitch is that for the most part everything is going to be underneath the bed and one of the things that really sets this one apart from any of the others on the market is its double lock peg. Now this is going to give you more security and strength. Now one of the things that I think is pretty cool about this setup is that there are some products available to give you more use than just a gooseneck. For example, you could pick up the Curt X5 fifth wheel base rail adapter, and what that does is utilize your gooseneck hitch and it will actually allow you to put a fifth wheel on.Another product that's available is the Curt four inch offset ball. What that does, it's more or less than adapter that'll plug into here and actually put your ball a few inches further back away from your cab and that'll help you during tight cornering or anything like that.

It'll just give you more clearance to not interfere with your cab. It does have some spring loaded safety chain hooks and these will sit nice and flush when you're not using them, if you have any more room and sincerity spring loaded. They're not going to rattle around and make a ton of noise when you're going down the road.Now many of our customers really how easy to set up is use once it's installed, especially the handle. It's out in the open so you're not going to have trouble grabbing it and pulls back easily and turns to lock in place. Now some of our customers said they had a little bit of trouble getting the hitch installed.

I'll give you a few tips and tricks to help you along the way. Speaking of installation, let's go ahead and do it together now. To begin our installation, we're gonna need to come up in the bed of the truck and mark the point that we need to drill. Now all the measurements that you're going to need are going to be in the instructions and I do want to point out you're going to measure from the end of the bed itself towards the front. That's very important. You don't want to measure from the end of the tailgate.And then once you have marked out the length, you're going to want to find the center of the bed. So what I do is actually measure from wheel well to wheel well and make your mark. Now with our location marked, I'm going to use a small drill bit and make a pilot hole. And then we're going to be able to step that up to our whole saw. And you can find the diameter of the hole saw that you need in your instructions. The one thing I do want to mention, it's not a bad idea to make sure that there's nothing of importance underneath that way you don't drill through it and damage it.And once we have our whole made, go ahead and use a vacuum and clean up all the shavings that are left behind. Now it is a good idea too, to take a little bit of spray paint and just cover up this bare metal. That way it doesn't rust or anything. Now we're going to head underneath the truck. Now what I went ahead and did is actually lowered and removed our spare tire. Now you don't have to do that but it does free up some working room. Now what I'm going to do is come here by the tailpipe and lower this exhaust hangar. Now keep in mind today we have a truck with a diesel engine, if you have a gasoline engine, the steps can be a little bit different. To get this hangar down. We're going to have to take out two ten millimeter bolts, one here and one up there.Now we're going to have a sticky heat shield that's stuck to the bottom of our bed and right over our exhaust here and we need to remove that. Now it's not bolted at or anything. So what I'm going to do is just pull it down, and free that glue. Now these can be tricky sometimes so if it's fighting, you know you might have to take a pry bar or a flat head screwdriver and kind of work it down. Once you have it removed, if you can just start it off to the side.Now we're going to come over here to the driver's side and put in our rear cross arm. Now you're going to notice the rear cross arm because it's actually going to have three of these notches, two on one side and one on the other. Now what you're going to want to make sure is that these square holes are going to be facing the front of the truck. Now in our particular case when we we're trying to slide our cross arm in, I couldn't get it all the way in because it was actually making contact with this little wheel lip right here. Now there's instructions and our directions that give us a little diagram and if we need to notch this area out a little bit we can, so that's exactly what I'm going to do. I went ahead and marked it and I'm just gonna use a dremel tool to remove that material.Now, since you have the proper clearance, we can install our rear cross arm, just like that, over the frame. Once we have the cross arm on both sides of the frame all the way across, we might have to slowly work it from side to side to get it to fall into place. Then once you get it to about where the frame starts to dip down a little bit, you can take it, and kind of fold it like that. Now we're going to do the same thing with our front cross arm and you'll notice the front one cause it'll only have two notches. Now we want the flat side with the holes in it to face the rear of the truck. We use that same notch that we made earlier.And once we have our cross arm resting on each side of the frame, once again, you can kind of just make sure the holes are facing the right way and get it to stand up as good as we can for now. Now we're going to loosely install our side plates. Now these are side specific and the way that you're going to tell the two apart is that the side that's a little bit smaller, that's going to face towards the back of the truck. And this side over here with this angle, that's going to face towards the front. Now what I'm going to do is start on our driver's side, and we're gonna put it up against our frame rail, and line our holes up. And I'm going to first put some hardware in that hole there. I'm going to use a half inch bolt and a conical tooth washer. I'll make sure that the teeth on the Washer are always gonna face the metal. So I'll put that there. And then on the other side I'm going to secure it with the flange nut.Now we're going to work on securing the front end of our plate, now how are we going to do that is we're going to take this U bolt, and from the inside of the frame or the slide it to our side plate in the threads are going to come out of this hole and this hole. Now I do want to point out if you haven't had any wiring or lines or anything like that on the inside of the frame where we're putting this U bolt, you're going to want to make sure that you don't pen shell them or damage them in any way. Hand tighten some flange nuts on the end of our U bolt.Now the last piece of hardware that we need to put in will be this large bolt and that'll go through this hole into the frame. Now how this is gonna work. We're gonna take this big spacer, slide that on, and then from inside of the frame rail we're going to push it through, it will come through the frame and our side plate and then on the other side we'll secure it with this large flange nut.Now we're going to put our side plate over here on the passenger side. That's going to be very similar to the driver's side. We're just going to use a little bit different hardware. We'll do the same thing. We'll take our bolt with our conical tooth washer. We'll put that in first. Now for our whole up here towards the front of the truck, instead of using a U bolt this time, we're going to use a C clamp style bracket, so I'm going to go around to the inside of the truck and feed our threadened end through that top hole, and the same thing with the other side. Make sure not going to pinch or damage any wires or anything that might be behind there.And on the other end, just it's loosely install our flange nut. Now for our center hole, we're going to take a large bolt, one of our big flat washers, and on the passenger side we're going to go through this way. We'll push that through, and on the other side, secure it with this big flange nut. Now we're going to secure the bottom portion of our C clamp style bracket to the side plate. Gonna do that, we'll take a half inch bolt, conical tooth washer. Once again, make sure the teeth are gonna hit our bracket ,and going from the back to the front slide it through and then we'll loosely install one of our flange nuts.We're at the point now where we can install our center section. Now just kind of a pointer, this tip I'm going to tell you makes it a lot easier, on the rail closest to the front of the truck what I'm going to do is actually put our hardware in these two center holes. Now they're going to be half inch carriage bolts like this and what I like to do is actually just take a piece of tape and tape it to the head of the bolt, slide it through the hole and tape it down so that way when we go to put our center section up, if he happened to bump into it a little bit, we don't get it perfectly lined up, it's not going to push our hardware out. We're not going to have to really fight it.Before we put our center section in place, we want to make sure that we have it oriented the right way. What I mean by that is we want to make sure our hole is gonna line up with the hole in the bed and so you want this smaller hole to face towards the front of the truck, and then we can pick it up. Pull our exhaust out a little bit. Then we can line our two holes with the bolts that we put in earlier. And then we'll loosely secure those with some flange nuts, then we can kind of pull our assembly back and get our opening here to line up with the opening in our bed. I will use the same carriage bolt and flange nuts to loosely secure the two remaining holes on our front rail. Now we can loosely secure our rear rail the same way that we did the front, we just line up the holes, and push all of our fasteners through.With all of our fasteners done underneath the truck, we can then come to the side and put in our two bolts on our side plate to our rails. Now we're going to use carriage bolts. And we're going to put them from the inside out, so this one will go this way, and this one will go this way. Now sometimes the square part of our carriage bolt doesn't want to go through there perfectly, so if you have to, just take a hammer and give it a little tap, and on the other side, we will loosely install a flange nut. And I'm going to do the exact same thing to the other side.Now before we tighten down all of our hardware and torque it, what I like to do is just hop back in the bed and double check the alignment of everything here. Just if you need to you can push the hitch over a little bit and that way you get it centered with the hole that we made perfectly. Now we can tighten up all of our hardware. Now there's a particular sequence that we need to follow to do this. The ones that we're going to start with first are the eight fasteners that are holding the center section to our rail.Now we're going to come over here to the driver's side and tighten down the bolts that hold our side plates to the frame. So it will be the large one in the center, the two that are connecting our U bolt, and finally this one. I do want to point out whenever you're doing the U Bolt, you want to tighten up each one evenly. So tighten this one down until maybe three or four threads are showing, move down to this one and vice versa.Now we'll come over to the passenger's side and tighten down the plate that goes to our frame. We'll tighten down the large bolt, this bolt, this one and this one. And then finally on each side we can tighten up the bolts that hold our rails to the side plate. So this one and this one. With everything snugged down, using that same order, we're going to use a torque wrench to torque all of our hardware to the proper spec. I you can find that torque specification in your instructions.Now back underneath the truck, what we can do is drill some holes. That way we can set up our safety chain loops. Now on each side of our center section, there's going to be four elongated holes just like this, and we're actually going to be using the outside ones, and we're choosing that because of the corrugation on our bed actually sits pretty much flush right here. And that way our safety chain loops, we'll sit nice and flush up top inside of the bed. So what we're going to do is drill a small pilot hole in the dead center of these two and we'll do the same thing on the other side.Now up top inside the bed, we can enlarge our pilot holes to the size indicated in the instructions. And once we have them enlarged, we can see if our U bolts fit in there freely. So this should slide up and down with ease, and we'll clean up our mess. Now once all this is complete, we'll take our safety chain loops and drop them down.Now back underneath the truck we can secure our safety chain hooks. Now each individual bolt is going to get the same setup and that setup's going to be a flat washer, then one of the springs, another flat washer and finally, one of the nylon lock nuts. Get that on there hand tight and repeat that process for the remaining U bolts. Now once you have them on, what we're going to do is tighten up our nuts until they're flush with the end of the year U bolt. So just like that.Now we can put in our double lock pin and you're going to want to make sure the side that has the hole on it is facing up. We'll just slide that in, just like that. Then we'll take our handle on the driver's side and slide that into place through this opening right here. Make sure that handle lines up through the holes in our center section. When we get to about this point, we're going to take the spring, feed our handled through that into our lock pin. As you see the hole on the handle, we're going to line that up with the whole on our lock pin. And then we will take this small bolt and totally included do that through both of them. We'll give the handle a pull just to make sure we're connected, which we are. And on the other side, we'll put on our small nylon lock nut. Now we can grab our wrench and tighten it down.Now we're going to have to lower one more exhaust bracket closer to the front of the truck. That'll be the next bracket from the one that we did close to the tailpipe. It's gonna look like this. Now on the inside of this cross member, there's going to be two 13 millimeter nuts that we're going to have to remove. Now once you have both of them removed, we can pull this bracket down and we're actually going to put in this spacer block. So these two cut out parts are actually going to kind of sit around our studs, like that. Then we can push it back up and into place and re secure it with the two 13 millimeter nuts that we removed. Back here at the hangar closer to the tailpipe, we're also going to have to make an adjustment to it. So the first thing we're going to do is remove this speed clip from the frame. You can just pull it off. You might need to get a flathead and kind of pry into it to loosen it up if need be. And then what we're gonna do is take our angle bracket just like this. We're going to put that speed clip on it, set that bracket up on her hangar, and you use one of the factory bolts that we removed to loosely secure it. I'll get this about hand tight.And now we're actually going to pull down on the exhaust and the line up these very top hole in our new black bracket with the original hole in the frame that the hangar was bolted to. Now what I'm going to do is take one of the carriage bolts and put it from the outside end using the very top hole on the new bracket. Then on the other side I'll just take one of the flange nuts, and get that started on there, hand tight too. And finally we'll take one of the other factory bolts and put it in through this hole and to the hangar. I don't want to all of our hardware hand tight, we can snug it all down.And that'll do it for our look at and installation of the Curt double lock under bed gooseneck hitch with installation kit on our 2015 Ford F250 Super Duty.


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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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