Curt EZr Double Lock Underbed Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

content loading



Customers compare C611-624 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install a Curt EZr Double Lock Underbed Gooseneck Hitch on a 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500


Today on our 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Curt's Easy-R Double Lock Under Bed Goose Neck Trailer Hitch, with the installation kit. This is what our Gooseneck is going to look like installed. As you can see, it mounts underneath our truck bed. That way we still have full bed access up top. Now, one of the main features about this gooseneck, is that it has a double locking pin. So, it's actually gonna hold your ball with two pins instead of one, unlike many of the others.

The reason this is an upgrade is because it provides double the strength. Up top, this is what it's going to look like. Here we have our ball. And here's that double locking pin holes. You can also see there's some grooves here, which that's only gonna let you to allow to install your ball one way.As you can see, with it correctly installed, it sits nice and flat.

If you we're to try to put it in any other way, it wouldn't work. Another cool thing, is when you're not using it, you can take it and actually flip it upside down. You can see it has a little handle welded on. Put it in like that. And then Curt also gives you a nice rubber cap.

That way you keep you ball protected and covered. Now, the ball size is gonna be 2-5/16ths. This gooseneck does have a 6000 pound vertical load limit. And a 30 thousand pound maximum gross trailer limit. However, it's always a good idea to check in your Silverado's owners manual, to make sure your truck can pull that much weight.

The safety chain loops are gonna be 5/8ths, and they're gonna have a nice spring action to keep them pulled onto the bed when not in use. But also, they're gonna be large enough and easy enough to pull up when you do need them.As you can see, there's quite a bit of an opening here, so you'll be able to use just about any size hook that you might have. Right down here along the frame we have our handle. This is really easy to do, whenever you need to unlock it, you just pull it towards you and turn it to your left a little bit and that'll hold it into place while you're putting your ball in or taking it out. When you're ready to lock it, you simply just turn it and it'll pull itself back into place. To begin our install, I went ahead and lowered and removed our spare tire. That way it'll give us some more room when we're working on our installation. We're gonna remove our wheel well lining. We're gonna do that by using a T-15 torques bit to remove these fasteners. Now there's gonna be multiple ones and they're gonna be the exact same on the other side.Get all the fasteners out, we can then kinda pull on our wheel well liner and work it out from underneath the truck. This can be kinda tricky, so just go from one side to the other. Now, we'll go ahead and repeat that on the other side. All right, next we're gonna go ahead and lower the exhaust. Right here, right in front of the rear axle, there's going to be two hangers. What I did was, I sprayed them down with some penetrating oil. That way it's gonna be a little easier to get off. So you can use a pry bar to apply pressure on the isolator. And right behind the tail pipe there's another one. We went ahead and used the same process to get that off. We're going to need to trim this heat shield up above the exhaust. And you just need to trim out a section of it, that way all of our bracketry can fit underneath the bed.Now, this is the area. I went ahead and marked it. We're gonna need to trim from inside this bed support channel to the next one, right above this cross beam. So, we're gonna use a Dremel tool to remove this, but you can use a pair to tin snips or whatever else you might have. All right, on each wheel well there's going to be a tab that looks like this. We're gonna need to bend that up. That way we have enough room to get our cross bar to go across to the other side. Now, what I like to do is just use a crescent wrench and just put it over and just lightly pry up on it and kinda just work your way around. That way, we can avoid damaging the tab. Now, on the rear cross arm, there's gonna be some threaded holes. It makes it a lot easier to take of the included bolts and just run them down in through the holes to clear out the threads.If there's any debris in there, it's gonna be a lot easier to take care of that with it outside, instead of underneath the truck. Now, you'll notice, these holes are offset. They're closer to one edge of the crossbar. And how they're gonna work is this is gonna sit on the trucks frame rails, like this. You're gonna want the holes to be as close as possible to the frame rail. So, once we have the threads cleaned out, what we're gonna do is take it and slide it over the trucks frame, right in front of this channel here, til it gets to the other side. Just like that. Our rear cross arm, will be an L shape. And as you can see on the top side of it, it's completely flat. And on this side, there's gonna be some holes here. Now, we're gonna want this arm to be positioned with this topside facing the bed of the truck. And this side, we're gonna want the holes facing towards the rear of the truck.So, we can go ahead and put this in the same way we did the rear cross arm. About where this tab is that we bent, be the right spot. So, we're gonna wanna flip this cross arm in this position, that way the holes will face front and back, and not up and down. We're gonna wanna also get it as close as we can to this channel underneath the bed. If you can't do it by hand, you can get an advantage by using a crescent wrench, and flip it that way. And as I mentioned earlier, you're gonna wanna make sure the holes in the bar are as close as they can to the frame rails of the truck. Before we put our center section up, I just wanna kinda go over it a little bit. As you can see, this flat portion here, this will sit flat against the bottom of our bed. And if we turn it around, you'll notice this hole is offset. Now, the hole's offset towards the rear of the truck.So this, it's gonna be closer to the rear, as well as this portion is going to face the back of the truck. And this side with the square holes, that's gonna face towards the front of the truck. Now, it does come with some hardware and some keepers, which will really give us a hand when we're trying to get this in place and installed. So, what we'll do is take our carriage bolt and on the front portion of this intersection, slide it through one of the middle holes. And we'll take this keeper, just pushes on. You can thread it on. We'll do the same thing to this hole. And this will help keep these bolts in place, that way we have some started already when we put it up. Curt does provide us with the center locator. It's in the shape of a cross. And what this does, is before we put our center section into place, we're actually gonna pop this into the hole, just like that. Now, once we have our center section in place, you'll notice this small whole in the center. That's actually a pilot hole.So, we'll use a drill and drill from the bottom up into the bed. And that'll give us our place to drill. And it'll match up perfectly with our center section. I'm gonna go ahead and put our center section in place. These two bolts here we're the two helper bolts that we put in the center section prior to lifting it up under the truck. So, once we had it up here, I was able to slide this front cross arm over these two bolts and then we just used some flange nuts to get them all hand tight. Now, the remaining holes in the front, are gonna use the same setup. That carriage bolt and a flange nut. Get all those in and just get them hand tight. Now, for the rear in the center section, that's gonna use a little bit different hardware. That's going to use a bolt like this and a conical tooth washer. Just make sure that the teeth on the conical tooth washer always face the hitch. And these go in from the inside. And they'll thread into that rear cross arm.So once again, we'll get all these hand tight. On the front of the center section over the gas tank here on the drivers side. The way we're gonna fasten it will be a little bit different than the other three. Instead of putting our bolt through from the inside out, what we're gonna do is take carriage bolt and a block spacer and actually feed the bolt through this way. That way the threads will be sticking out of the hole and we'll put our nut on like this. That way it's a little bit easier to tighten down. There's not a whole lot of room on this backside above the gas tank, so it's a lot easier to slide the both through and put the nut on this side, as opposed to trying to tighten the nut over on the other side. Now we can focus on our frame plates that are gonna get attached to the trucks frame itself. Now these are side specific. So, what you're gonna do is want this rounded portion to face towards the rear of the truck.And these tabs are going to face outward. Now how this is going to work is it's going to slide up in between our two cross arms, attach the cross arms, and also attach to the frame. And you can see these openings here, those are gonna be our attachment points. But we're going to actually have to fish wire a carriage bolt inside of the frame. And this bolt will stick, we'll put our plate of it, and we'll be able to use some nuts to attach it that way. Now, I'll show you how to do the fish wire technique now. So, we'll take our threaded end of our fish wire. We're gonna push that through one of the attachment point openings. And we'll go on the inside of the frame rail, we're gonna feed this through an opening. Pull it our and attach our hardware. All right. This big hole here, just behind our shock absorber is where we're gonna want our fish wire to come out from.So, as I said, you'll feed it through the wall on the outside and push it. And you might have to stick your finger in there to get a hold of it to pull it out. Once it is out, you can take your spacer block, push it over the fish wire and into the hole. And you can take your carriage bolt and thread that into the fish wire, and we'll feed that into the hole as well. Now, we can come on the outside of the frame, pull our fish wire and our carriage bolt will come through. And pull it. Kind jiggle it a little bit, that helps sometimes. Just like that. Now once it's through, just leave your fish wire on, that way if the bolt falls back through, it's not gonna be a problem to get back out. Now, we're gonna repeat that process with this hole here. We're just gonna take our fish wire and push it this way to that large opening on the inside. And attach everything to the fish wire.So, we can take the end of our fish wire and feed it through the holes on our side plate, like so. And push our side plate into place. Now with it on there, we can remove one of our fish wires, be careful not to let the bolt call back into the frame. So you can just kinda use your finger to hold it. And we'll just loosely install one of the nuts. Now the other side goes together exactly the same. So, just go ahead and repeat that process. Now the hardware that we're gonna use to attach our frame plate to the rear cross arm will be a half inch bolt and a conical tooth washer. Always make sure that the teeth on the washer face the metal portion of the hitch. Do this. And once again, just get it loosely installed, that way we have a little wiggle room for the rest of the hardware. Now what we're gonna use for this hole is a carriage bolt, a spacer block, and a flange nut.So, we'll put the block on the carriage bolt and from the inside going out, feed it through. Take our flange nut, once again, loosely install it. And you're gonna do the same thing to the other side. Now, if you come back down underneath the truck before we tighten everything down, you wanna make sure that our center section is even and square. Now, to do that, what I do is push this all the way against this channel here on the truck bed, and that'll square it up. Now, as far as to make sure it's centered and even, what you can do, is through some ridges here on the underside of the bed, you can make sure that the edge of the center section lines up with the edge of the ridge. And the same thing on the other side. You can kinda run your fingers down and feel the edge of the center section, and that'll give you a good idea if you have it centered or not.And if you don't, you can just make your minor adjustment and it helps to use a rubber mallet or even a pry bar. We can snug all of our hardware down now, starting with our frame bolts. We're gonna use a 15/16ths socket to do that. You can also use a 15/16ths to tighten up this carriage bolt here towards the front of the truck. And follow it up by using a 3/4 inch socket to tighten up this rear one. Now, underneath in the center section, you can go ahead and snug all this hardware down as well. Now, with all the hardware snugged down, we can focus on getting everything torqued. We're going to first torque down these frame bolts on the side plats on each side. You can find that specification in your instructions. Next, back underneath, we're gonna torque down all of the center section hardware. Once again, you can find that torque spec in your instructions.We're gonna go ahead and drill a pilot hole into the bed. That way we can make a hole large enough for our ball to go into the gooseneck. Now, that orange cross we inserted into the center section earlier, that's what we're gonna use a guide to drill our pilot hole. And as you can see right there in the middle there's a small hole. We're gonna run our pilot bit through that. We're gonna use a 3/16ths drill bit to do that. Now we're gonna make some holes for our safety chain loops right here and here. As well as the other side. Now, we're gonna use a 5/8th bit and drill just a little bit to make an indention and then put our smaller pilot bit in it. And drill through the center of it all the way through the bed. Then we'll go into the bed to finish the holes. Because when you drill from the top, it makes for a cleaner cut.Here we have all of our pilot holes that we drilled from underneath. Now, we're gonna start with our large hole her in the center. And that'll allow us to drop our ball down into that center section. Now, we just don't wanna go drilling crazy into it because we do need to pull that template out. So, we will have to watch that. So, we're gonna use a four inch hole saw to get that hole drilled out. And the trick to using a hole saw with metal, is high speed and low pressure. Now, I'll grab our vacuum cleaner to suck up any of these metal shavings that we made. I'm gonna get a hand file and use it to clean up any burrs or sharp edges that we made from the hole. Now, it's never a good idea to leave any raw metal exposed on your truck. So, we're just gonna use some automotive clear coat spray paint to protect that. All right. Now, instead of watching our paint dry, we're gonna be proactive and use a 5/8th drill bit to drill out our safety chain loops. So, we'll just find the center of our pilot hole.We're gonna repeat that process to the other three. Once again, we're gonna use our vacuum to clean up our metal shavings. I went ahead and used some clear spray paint, once again, on the safety chain loop holes. And then, as you can see, you can test fit it to make sure it fits properly. And now, we can put our chrome ring into place and that's gonna be held in with three flathead screws with an Allen key head. Now, back underneath, we can secure our safety chain loops. Now, you're gonna put a flat washer on it, a spring, another flat washer, then finally a nut. Now, we can just tighten it until it is flush. All right, we're gonna repeat that same process on this side. We're gonna take the cast lock pin and with the side with the handle hole facing up, what we're gonna do is slide it into the ball cylinder from the drivers side. Just like that.Now, we can take our handle and placing it through the openings designed for it. Put it into that lock pin. Now, before we completely attach it, you are gonna need to put a spring on the end of the handle. What we're gonna do is kinda just pull it back out a little bit, we'll take a flat washer, put that over it first. Then we'll run our spring over it. And we'll have a flat washer on the other end of the spring. This can be kinda tricky to get all lined up, so just take your time. And once it's fully seated, we can take our small bolt and nut, push it through. We'll tighten up our nut on the other side. Here's what it looks like once it's installed. All right, go ahead and rehang your exhaust. Now, we went ahead and reinstalled our wheel liner. Now, we have an issue. As you can see, our handle is hitting it. So, what we're gonna do is take a knife and cut out and opening, that way it'll work with no interference.And that'll do it for a look at an installation of Curt's Easy-R Double Lock Under Bed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with Installation Kit on our 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500.


Questions and Comments about this Video

add comment

Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Video by:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Robert C

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.