Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2011 Gmc Sierra - Curt

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How to Install a Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2011 Gmc Sierra


Today on our 2011 GMC Sierra we are going to be taking a look at and installing the Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Under Bed Gooseneck Hitch with install kit. Part number C607-604. What sets apart this hitch from the rest of them, it's got a double locking pin, where most of them only have one pin that goes through this one has two. It's going to keep your load extra secure. The reason you want this product is that fact that it only has the four holes that you are going to drill for your safety chain loops and one four inch diameter hole in the bed. Everything else is a bolt on using existing holes. Now your trailer ball is a 2 and 5/16 that is chrome plated along with the nice ring along the outside.

It's got two spring loaded safety chain holders. All of the hardware is either going to be zinc coated or powder coated with the exception of the ball and the ring around the top. That's going to help against rust and corrosion to make it last for a long time. Another nice feature of this hitch is when it's in the stowed position, it has a nice rubber cap that's going to help keep moisture and dirt out of your hitch receiver. Once it's in the stowed position, your have a flat bed surface that you can still use your truck to haul things with. When your hitch is in the stowed position, you can pull out the lever and twist it to the front of the truck where you can pull up your ball, flip it around.

It's only going to go in one way, there is a groove on the side and that's going to match up with the passenger side of the vehicle, it will drop back down and you release your handle and it will lock into position. Then you take your rubber cap, place it over the top, and when you want to tow again simply remove the cap, stow it away, pull out your ball, drop it back down into position, you release the latch and it's tight. Now lets go ahead and show you how to install it. To begin our install it's necessary to remove the spare tire, which is already done. We will just set the cable on top of the frame where it will be out of our way. Now we are going to remove this plastic heat shield that goes around the tire.

There are 2/13 millimeter bolts that we will just pull those down and we will set this aside for re-install at a later time. It's going to be necessary to drop our exhaust so we are going to take a safety strap and wrap it around the exhaust. Now that we have our safety strap in place, we're going to go ahead and take some lubricant and move up the grommet that holds the exhaust in place. I'm going to take a pry bar and we will just pry out, off the grommets, push them aside. Once you have them all loose, you can loosen up your strap and let your exhaust come down. It's going to be necessary on this vehicle to remove the front one too, push it to the side. That way we have enough drop on our exhaust to ding and cut our heat shield.

It's going to be necessary to take out the heat shield between the frame rails here. We're going to go ahead and cut it with a grinder. You can use a tin-snip. We're going to remove that one section. You can trim off the last piece with a tin-snip. Now we can go ahead and cut the front side. Then we will just take that piece out and we are going to dispose of that. Now before we install our two bars up underneath our bed, it's a good idea to take a bolt, and run it through all the holes, to clean out any excess powder coat that might be built up in there. You can just take one of those bolts that goes in there and just run it down through the hole. Now we can put in one of our crossbars, I'm going to do the front one first. The front one is going to have notch on the bottom side of it it's going to give you some clearance on the top of your fuel tank. When this goes in your want to make sure your bolt holes that are offset are at the bottom side. You just slide them on the frame rail, across. We'll take a pair of channel locks and we are going to rotate into position and stand it up. We will do the same thing with the rear one. The rear one does not have a notch just make sure you have your bolt holes to the bottom side. Now we're going to slide that back. Now we are going to install our bolts and spacers into the frame rail. We are going to have one there and one on the other side of the axle. We're going to use a bolt baiter to pull them through. Once you get it out the hole, place on your spacer, 5 inch carriage bolt, feed the spacer in through your bolt, pull it into place. You want to leave your leader on there until we get the side plate on. We're going to pull this one into position. That one is going to come in from the backside. Install our spacer block and our carriage bolt, embed them into the hole. Now we pull our bolt out. We're going to take our side plate and we a going to slip the leader holes through the side plate. Pull it into position, remove our leader tape. We will install our flange nut onto the bolt, place our back one on, same process. Now we will take one of our half inch bolts, block washer and flat washer, we will place it into the end here. Take a little maneuvering to get it into position. Once you have the rear one started, do the same thing with the front and we are going to run those down finger tight. Might be, just take a ratchet and you can do it. Just don't over tighten it, you just want to snug them down and pull them into position. We're going to want to repeat the same process on the other side of it. Once we have both sides installed we're going to snug up the two outer bolts on both sides so they are against the frame. Then we are going to make sure that we have our two cross bars centered. Now we will take our supply template which is going to marked for us. Place that towards the front, take one of the bolts, half inch bolts. We're going to install it. Now we are going to tighten this in, it's going to take a little bit of maneuvering to get that in because you want to make sure that it is centered up in the middle of your bed because that's where your pilot hole is going to come through the bed so we can drill that hole on the topside. Now we are going to drill a quarter inch hole through the template, straight up into the bed. Now we can go up to the top side and we're going to drill a four inch diameter hole from the top, down. Now that we have the hole drilled, we can remove our template and we'll clean up our hole and put a little bit of paint in there. Now we can loosen up the front rail to give up a little access room to slide our plate in from the bottom side. Now we take our center section and place it up in there. An extra set of hands comes in handy. We need a total of eight bolts we're going to put in. Once you have all your bolts started, you can go ahead and snug them down. Now we can run down the two bolts in the front bar and snug down our back one. Repeat that process on the other side. First we are going to torque your center section bolts to the torque specified in your instructions. You're going to want to do that for all eight of the bolts. Now we're going to go ahead and torque our side plates to their specified torque down in your instructions and we will repeat that for the two on the other side. The last to torque are going to be your two cross bars. Those are going to be the same torque as the ones on the center plate. Now we will repeat that on the other side and that's going to finish off our torque. Now we are going to drill our holes for our safety chain loops. We are going to use the inner most oblong holes and it's going to sit on the lower part of the bed channel. We will just go ahead and mark the holes. Once we have them marked you can go ahead and take a pallet bit and you can run it through and then we'll go on the top side and clean out the hole. Now we will take a quarter inch bit and run it straight up through. Now we will repeat that on the other side. Now that we have the pilot holes through the bed we're going to enlarge them to a half inch so we can put our safety chain loops right through. You want them to be able to slip up and down easily like that. Now we will do the other side. You want to take care here on the drivers side because the fuel tank is right below here and you don't want to possibly hit it. It's not directly below, it's just to the front but when you're drilling out the hole you want to be careful you're not going to nick it. Once we've cleaned up our area we're going to take our loop blots and drop them both down through. If you're doing this by yourself, just lay a piece of wood or something heavy across the top to help keep them in place while I go to the bottom side to put on the nuts and springs and washers. Now we've come down to the bottom we're going to place a flat washer, a spring, and another flat washer my long lock nut. We do that on both sides. Now we will take a 3 1/4 inch wrench and tighten these up until we have about 2 or 3 threads sticking through the nylon lock nut. Now we will take our dual locking pin it has a hole in one end, and a cross hole through there. That's going to go on the top, slide it in. Then we will take our lever handle from the outside, slide that in. Place the two flat washers and the spring, and we are going to slide that all the way in. Take you supplied nut and bolt, slide it through nylon lock nut. Stick your 5/16 wrench and just snug this down. Doesn't need a lot of torque it just needs to be snugged down because it's a really small bolt and all you're doing is keeping your lever into the pin. Now we can test out our lever to make sure it's working properly. You're just going to pull it out and twist it towards the front of the vehicle and that's going to unlock your pin after you dropped in your ball, push it to the back, let it slide in. Now we're ready to put our exhaust back up into place. Once you have your strap pulled back up you can start reattaching your grommets. It may require a friend to help you lift up on your exhaust. We're going to be using under car jack-stands, just take the pressure off. Now we can install our heat shield for the tire. Take our 2/13 millimeter bolts and we can torque that back down to specifications. We can remove our safety strap now we will be ready to put our spare tire back into position. That's going to do it for our look at and install of of the Curt Double Lock Flip and Store Under Bed Gooseneck Hitch with Install Kit. Part number C607-604 on a 2011 GMC Sierra.


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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Zack K
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Joshua S
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Jacob T
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Chris R
Video by:
Andrew K
Video by:
Michael B
Installed by:
Jeff D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
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Shane H

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