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Curt Custom Underbed OEM-Style Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2022 GMC Sierra 2500

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How to Install the Curt Custom Underbed OEM-Style Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2022 GMC Sierra 2500


Hello neighbors. It's Brad here at etra. And today we're taking a look at the Curt-Underbed-OEM style custom gooseneck on a 2022 GMC Sierra 2,500 HD. Now this is gonna allow you to hook up to gooseneck trailers. And as far as towing, it's got quite a bit of capacity and your gross trailer weight rating is gonna be 32,500 pounds. So pretty heavy duty system for your truck.

Now you also have a weight rating of the downward pressure on here, your pin weight per se, and that's gonna be 8,125 pounds. So again, a pretty high number. It's gonna allow you to tell us some pretty heavy loads. Now it does come with this two and five 16 goose ball, and it's pretty easy to load into place and unlatch. You can simply twist this top portion and when you wanna lock it in place, pushing this tab down, puts the balls out.

So you can have it in any position here, just twist that. And then once it's in place, simply make sure that's there. And you're locked in place. Now, as far as storage goes, some other under bed kits will allow you to flip these over and store 'em like your BMWs. It's not the case here.

So you are gonna have to store this in somewhere in your truck, whether you have a toolbox or in the cab. Now, something that is nice is you do have a plug here. So that way, when you're not using it, you can plug this up. It looks nice and clean. Obviously keeps it nice flat and keeps dirt debris and just rainwater, or whatever else is in your bed from going underneath.

Now, you also have your safety loops here and they're spring voted, which is nice. So that way it cinches it down and they sit in the actual lower rail of the bed. So that way it's pretty flush here. It's not sticking up much. And that way you, when you're not having you your fifth wheel, or I'm sorry, your gooseneck towing, you still have all of your bed. It's not gonna hinder loading up your truck. Now underneath the truck, we can take a look at the components installed. And the great part about the system is it is multiple different pieces. So you have a left side and a right side bracket. That's all held together and it's nice having multiple pieces is. And the reason being it's easy to get these into place. When you have so many things going on, you have a fuel tank and an exhaust in the way, and it's all pretty heavy. So having small multiple pieces was really nice for install. I was able to set some of these brackets up and kind of work as I went, and you can do this with one person. If you set aside an afternoon weekend, you could probably get this knocked out and it's not terribly hard. There's no cutting except for. well, I should say there's no cutting or drilling on the underside, except for the holes that are gonna go through your bed. But as far as the rest of it, it's bolt on installation. Speaking of installation, let's walk you through those steps right now and get your hitch installed. To begin our installation, we're gonna first start by dropping our spare tire down. That's gonna gain us a bunch of space while we're working underneath the truck. So now we're gonna make our way, little past the rear pumpkin here. And you're gonna see on this cross member, there's gonna be a bracket has a lot of electrical connections here. And so since we're gonna be putting our center section in this area, we're gonna remove this just to give us a little bit more space. So we have some 10 millimeter nuts here that we should be able to remove. So now in front of our pumpkin here, next to our gas tank, our driver's side over here. We're gonna see that there's going to be some 10 millimeters that really just keep this wiring harness in place. And since we're me raising up our underbed here, we're gonna want to get this outta the way by removing these two 10 millimeters. So that's gonna allow us to move this out the way and gain us a lot more access. Now, during all of this installation, you're gonna want to hold onto all your hardware as you may need it for re-installation. So keep it in a safe place. And if you need to, you can organize them separately. That way you'll have 'em ready for when you need to put them back in. So now we're gonna be removing this heat shields here that lives above the axle. Now there's gonna be four 13 millimeter bolts. You're gonna have one here and one on the frame rail. And then there's also another one on the frame rail, further back, as well as that rear cross number. So just kind of follow it along and just follow the TADS and you should be able to see them up there. So you should have four of these. And once we remove this, we're actually not gonna reinstall it because our underbed's going to go here. So you can actually just set this aside. Now, once you have your hardware out, it may seem like it's kind of stuck on there because they is this rubber-coating here on the frame. So it might feel like it's stuck on there, but with those four out, this should come out pretty easy. Now, next we're gonna be putting in our side plates that kind of sit over the fuel tank on the driver's side and the other one will live across from it. Now we're gonna be using carriage bolts. You're gonna see in the kit, there's a longer one. We're gonna be using the inch and have so find the shorter ones. And you're gonna wanna grab two of 'em for each side. So a total of four, and we'll just drop these in and get this in place. Now to determine which side these go on to make it a little bit easier. Your driver's side here has one hole. Where is your passenger side Actually has two on each. So make sure that you have the one with the single hole. This is gonna face towards the front as this actually is accounting for the fuel tank. So just make sure you have this one ready to go on the driver's side. And then what we're gonna do is take our carriage bolts here. And just drop these into place. Now we can let this in place. So I'm gonna attempt to get this slid over and these, you can see the weld nuts on here should kind of live on our frame rail or close to it. So let's just try to get this in position here. Now, there is some wires here, so just make sure you're not catching on any of those. It looks to be just a little rubber hose there. And that seems to be sitting okay. So we're gonna go ahead and we'll grab our other one and get that in place over here. Again, you can see this little bum for your two sensor. Be careful not to catch that wire on it. You might also have to move your driver aside. Wanna kind of get this in place. Exhaust does make it a little bit tight here, but you should be able to get this up and over. Now you're gonna see that they are kind of spread here. There's a little bit of wiggle room laterally. Now to make sure that you have it lined up properly. You can go ahead and look in your kit and you're gonna find this bracket here, and you're gonna see you should get these two line up just about like that. And that way, you know you had it lined up so you can put your center section in. Curt has actually included this nice handy tool for our center locator. And what this is gonna allow us to do is actually have a whole set up to drill our pilot hole to make sure have when our whole saw goes in a perfect hole for the receiver. So make sure you put this in place before actually raising it up. And what we're gonna be doing is between our two brackets that we have there. Those carriage bolts are gonna slide in here. So I recommend having an extra set of hands as this is kind of heavy, and we're gonna be threading two of our Frans nuts on each side to those carriage bolts, just loosely to kind of get it attached, but that should hold it in place. So we'll get this loaded up. And you may have to kind of finagle a little bit working around some of these clips. Oh, if your trim shield pops out like ours did make sure you put that in place. So it is gonna be tricky. I think best spot is to raise this end up over the exhaust and square into this bracket. And from there you can kind of move this along. And you may need to move your brackets, but you had up earlier. Just to kind of gain that space. You can see we're hitting kind of on this heat shield on the gas tank. So it is a pretty tight fit here, but just like that we should be able to get it in place. So again, make sure your trim, your plastic trim tool there is actually in place. And then from there, try your carriage bolts to line up. So I'm gonna just kind of feed our carriage bolts down into these holes, and you're gonna wanna make sure that they're sitting in their actual squares there. That way we can actually get these spinning. So I have these two in place. I'm gonna go ahead and just put a few threads on here. So that's gonna hold. I'll do the same on the other side. Now, if you ever having trouble aligning them, you can actually look underneath and see where that carriage bolt sits in the hole. You may need to lift this up to kind of square it, but just a bit, but they should drop through. Now I've noticed my carriage bolt kind of popped up as we we're actually lifting plates. So again, you may have to kind of work at this top portion to drop that back in. And then just gonna point around with that. I was able to get it to drop in. And so now with those dreaded through. Gonna raise this up just a bit and get these started. So now we're actually going to take our latch plate that we use for that kind of allignment. And we're gonna want to grab our carriage bolts. These are gonna be the longer ones, not the shorter ones we put up top. You're gonna want to grab four of those as well as four flange nuts. So what I'm gonna do here is just kind of get some of these aligned. And you may need to move it around and adjust as necessary, but that should feed all the way through. So I got this one through and what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna just loosely thread my flange nut on there. That way it can hold in and we can work on the other holes. Okay. You may need to kind of adjust around again to kinda get these to shoot through here. Let's see if I can't get this center one in here first. There we go. So yeah. You may need to loop the center section to kind of get that play that we need to get those to shoot through. And I would just hand tighten these enough to where you still can move all this, but also that square portion of the carriage bolt is kind of cinched in that hole. That way it doesn't back out. It's gonna make it a little bit easier later on when we tighten it. Sp now that we have these four on our actual latch plate, we can go ahead. We're gonna grab our other hardware and we're gonna be bolting them through here. So now on the backside, we're gonna be taking our shorter carriage bolts here, and there's gonna be three holes that will wind up. So again, we may have to raise that center section to kinda allign that in place and then same thing. We're gonna have our flange nuts. So just go ahead and hand-tighten those on. We're gonna be putting up our frame plates here. I'm gonna start with the driver's side. Now on the passenger side, those are gonna sandwich in between the frame. Whereas this one gets a little bit different. There's this actual strap here that will be using, but first things first, get your hex bolts ready with a split-washer and flat washer. You're gonna need six of them. And these are gonna be going up into the actual races that we put up earlier. They have weld nuts on 'em. So we're gonna get this one in place first, and then we'll get those in place. Just simply hand tighten these in. So the driver's side, you're gonna want this long one here, we're simply going to slide this on the outside of the frame rail. So I'm gonna take our plate, and slide this up and I'm gonna just align these holes with our bolts up into the two that are up there. Now you may need to move this little fender liner here, just a bit to get it in place. Now on the passenger side, we're gonna grab this piece. This has that kind of arch here, and this is gonna go on the outside of the frame rail and this will be facing the back. So same thing, have your hardware ready and go ahead and hand thread that up. Now we'll put our other plate on the inside here. Now, just be careful, 'cause you do have this O2 sensor wiring right here. So if you move the actual whole assembly back, you should gain enough access here to get these all aligned without causing an impact on there. Now all of this hardware we want hand tight and the reason being is to really get this thing centered up. We would need everything loose because you're gonna have to adjust to get some of the other hardware in place. So just enough to hold it should be fine. Now you're gonna wanna grab your long carriage bolt here and we're actually gonna thread these through our bracket. And that way we can actually sandwich this up using this strap. So this is gonna go obviously behind or in between the frame and that wiring harness. That way it's not cinching that down. And then we're just gonna simply feed our carrot bolts through. And then there's also gonna be these pipe spacers. Now there is one longer one and then four of these shorter ones. So make sure you take the shorter one. And that's just gonna create that gap that we need. And you can go ahead and thread your flange nut on. The top is gonna be the same. Now there are some burs on these. So just be careful that they can and be kind of sharp. So either wear some gloves or just be careful on those edges. Now on the passenger side, you're gonna see these long carriage bolts. There's gonna be one that's slightly longer than the others. That's gonna go with the longer tube of the bunch. So when putting these in this is gonna be the. towards the front of the vehicle. So make sure that the long one is actually there and the other two are going to be vertical of each other. So just make sure you have the proper hardware in the right place. So starting with these shorter carriage bolts is simply our pipe spacer there. Same as we did on our driver's side. And just hand-tighten this on. We'll do the same for that top one as well. Now using our long carriage bolt. This is gonna go in this forward one here. Now on the driver's side here, there is gonna be a hole on the side that we're gonna need to thread a bolt through. So we'll be needing to pass a spacer block as well as a carriage bolt through there in order to get the stud to go on the outside. So the bolt is gonna live inside the frame rail and this threads will be sticking out to get that outside plate. Now in order to feed that in there and get it into our hole on the outside frame, we're gonna be using a fish wire. So we're gonna be taking our fish wire here and you're gonna see there's a coiled end and that's where the bolt's actually going to thread onto. So we can actually pull it through here. Now we do have this still loose. So that way we have this gap and what I'm gonna do is I need to feed this through here as this plate is actually gonna sit through the middle here. So it's gonna get a little bit tricky, but just a little patience will make this work. So I'm just gonna kind of put this up in place and I'm just using my finger here to align not only our bracket, our washer and that hole in the frame, but get that coiled in fed through there. And that's gonna hold that washer in place for us. Now I'm gonna feed upwards. There's going to be a gap kind of in the corner there by the fuel tank, it's gonna be an oblong hole. That's pretty large. So go ahead. You're gonna get your fish wire. You're gonna want that coiled in to feed out of there. So once this is fed through, I go ahead and I actually bend my other end, just so this won't pull through on accident as we're attaching our hardware. So we're gonna be taking our spacer block. And this is just gonna create that square for the carriage bolt to bite onto. We can actually take this, and feed this through and you can actually drop it in that hole. It's gonna be a little tricky to feed it in, but let's get some angles here. Which is kind of a tight spot, but having your wire just hold that other end, if you can and we can kinda move it around. And. A little helpful tip here. You're gonna see this has a longer side. That's actually gonna be easier to feed in. First, gives you a little more angle to work with with that wire being there. So see if you can't slide that in like that, push it in. And now I'm gonna go ahead. I'm holding the other end again so it doesn't pull through. We're gonna take our carriage bolt and you're gonna want to just slightly thread that on there. It should go pretty easy. Now, with that threaded on, we can go ahead and feed the bolt through. And it's gonna be pretty tight here. So you may have to kind of put the actual rounded edge in first and it'll kind of align itself as you pull it in. But you're gonna want that to drop in the hole as well. Now, this wire bundle here is gonna kind of hinder it a little bit, getting it in the way. So you may have to move that as you can. Now this is gonna get tricky, 'cause the hole is not particularly large. So you almost have to get that carriage head in an angle. So let's try to get that. So I fed the threads kind of up and that way we can kind of slide that carriage bolt. And in. And then from there go to your other side, you may have to kind of jostle this around a little bit to kind of get it to all line, but you should have your threads pull through. Not only that spacer that we put in there, but also the spacer we fed the wire through. So play around with this until you get your threads through the hole. I see just do not pull this too hard because if it does come detach from that fish wire, it's gonna get pretty tricky to make this work. Now this portion does. It's gonna take some patience, but really make sure you're not pulling too hard on here, 'cause if this falls in, it's gonna be kind of make the installation quite it a bit more difficult. Now you can see some of mine already came off and really once I got pretty close to the hole, I kinda had to play around here just to kind of move it around so it wouldn't be catching. But what we'll do here now is put pressure on the carriage bolt. So it doesn't fall back in. Just make sure you're holding on tight to that. I just kind of put upward pressure like that. Just enough to get a couple threads put on there, just to hold it in place. Now there's gonna be the similar process on other side. So again, we're gonna do the same thing again. This is one of those steps that can really turn it into a much longer install and you may have some bolts riding around in your frame. So just be very careful while doing this. Now this passenger side's gonna be a little bit different as the large hole that we're gonna feed our carriage bolt as well as our spacer is at actually gonna be behind this plate. So I've gone ahead. I actually took out two of our long carriage bolts. The one that's here as well as one on the other side. Now this can kind of still stay in place, but I'm gonna drop this down and that's gonna give us access to this large hole here. So we're still gonna feed our fish wire on our carriage bolt And we're gonna simply get this to drop in. Sometimes you gotta go at a different angle, like. Gonna work at it and there we go. Next thing I'll do Is I'm gonna actually keep my space block in. So this will also need a little oblong spacer here. So since that's gonna sit between our plate on that frame rail, I'm gonna put that in place. And then what I'm gonna do is actually raise this up as this is going to feed through here. So you can take your wire and actually pull it through the hole on that. And as we kind of get this up in place, try to pull straight out and get that thread pulled through. And again, you wanna play around with the plate too, to make sure that that hole's lining up. And it's all align. Just put some straight pressure on it and we'll get this pulled through. And I've actually kind of pulled the plate back here a little bit, just so I can see the thread and then we'll get that fed through our middle space here if we can. There we go. Now kinda holding tension so we don't lose that bolt back in there again. We'll raise this up. You can actually pull the wire and keep it in place. Just now that we have that set through again, just be careful that you don't lose this in the frame rail. So just slightly pull this off. Now I also recommend, these fish wires are sharp little wire, so careful with your eyes, maybe wear some safety glasses while doing this whole process. Go ahead and take your flange nut. And get that tightened on. Okay. Now with that in place, we can can go ahead and we can actually put on our long courage bolts with those hype spacers back in place. So now we're going to be tighten these down with a 15-16 socket and there is a sequence that we need to follow. So first thing we're gonna wanna do is the four vertical ones here. And then we have our seven horizontal. So our center section's gonna be first, and then we're gonna be moving to our six Hex bolts and our hex bolts are gonna be the ones that have actually fed up here and you're gonna have 'em on the other side as well. And then moving from those, we're gonna do the frame attachment plate fasteners, and those are gonna be the ones we fish wired in. And then we'll go ahead and we'll do the remaining after that. So let's get our intersection tightened up and move our way through the rest of the hardware. All righty. So I'm gonna be tightening these up. Now you want 'em snug as to kind of cinch everything together, but you really don't have to go nuts on 'em with an impact or anything like that as we're actually gonna go back with a torque wrench to make sure they're all at the proper setting. So for now, just get these tightened up. Now you may get to this point here with these center ones where it's gonna be hard to get a socket on here, just because our receiver opening is there. So you may need to swap over to a wrench and get those tightened down the rest of them look as if we should be able to get to him fairly easily, but there may be spots that get tight that you'll have to swap over to some hand tools. Now, something else you're gonna want to keep in mind while tightening this all up is it does have a little bit of play, but you're gonna want this centered up as much as possible because once it's actually bolted down tight, you want that to be centered up in your bed. So do take your time to make sure that it is lined up before really cinching it down hard. So now we're gonna go back with our torque wrench and we're gonna torque down the hardware, to the manufacturer's recommendations in the instruction manual. Now there is two different torque settings for our hardware. So we have our half inch is gonna be different than the five-eights. So definitely make sure that you are making those torque settings specific to those bolts. Now, if it does get to a point where you're in the tight spot, there's actually a little Crowfoot style adapter that they've included in the kit, which is really nice. 'Cause a lot of times with your under bed, there's gonna be some spots that get really hard to torque down, but you wanna make sure it's also torque down properly. Now, if you don't have a torque wrench, we have these here at Etrailer. Generally you can run 'em in an auto parts store, but this is definitely an important step to make sure that it's gonna hold up over time. Not to have too much stress on the bolts, but also knock 'em loose. So going in the same fashion as we tighten them down before. We're gonna go ahead with the door wrench and get these all tightened down to spec. Now these two obviously are gonna be pretty hard to get to as they we're even to tighten. So we are gonna use our special tool here. So we'll just put this on the end of our a torque wrench. And this is gonna allow us to get that torque setting still and get this tightened down. Now with this method, it does rotate. So you'll have to stop every once and again, and start back. With a different rotation here. Here we go. And continue on until you have that torque done properly. Also two, make sure this tool doesn't get hung up on this lip and give you a false torque rating. All right. Now we can do our other one with the same way we just tighten that one. Now with everything, tighten and torque down the spec, we can go ahead and make our pilot hole using that template. And that's gonna allow us to find the hole on the top of the bed and be able to get the whole saw in there to make it fit. So very you carefully, you're gonna wanna route your drill up there and we're just using a 316. So just kind of a pilot hole, make sure you're centered there and then go ahead and make your hole. So you can see our pilot hole here it's nice and centered up with this bed ripped. So now we're gonna go through with our three and a quarter inch hole-saw with our pilot bit here, and we're just gonna enlarge that hole. Now this can catch occasionally, so I suggest standing up and using your ankles or some sort of leverage to hold this so it doesn't pull your wrist around and just kind of work slowly on this. Take your time. So with a little bit of patience, we've gotten this out now what we're gonna do here, we want to go back and get any of this flashing kind of sanded down. So I just have a small file, just kind of smooth these edges and something that's nice in this kit is they actually include a little bit of rubber to go around this edge so it isn't exposed metal. But we're gonna take a little bit of precaution. So let's go ahead and file this down first. So now I've got these burs sanded down. I'm gonna go ahead and just vacuum up our metal savings here. So now we're gonna go back under the truck and we're gonna need to either drill a pilot hole here for our safety loops. Or if you have a punch and you want to just make a dimple bear, that's gonna help see up top where we need to drill out. Now, if you do you have a bed liner on your truck, I suggest drilling because sometimes those dimples are kind of hidden underneath that bed liner. So do your best to square this up as much as possible to the center of that hole, much to your belt center. Make sure you're drilling perpendicular to the bed. Go ahead and make your pilot hole. I go ahead and repeat that on the other three. So now with our pilot holes, I'm gonna go back with my step bit and I have my U-bolt here. I'm gonna use this as reference, and once I drill holes out. But I think we're gonna be close to this. I'm gonna test fit this until for sure we're able to slide this up and down. Now sometimes they'll get caught up on the threads that's okay, but you want it to be able to slide pretty freely on the smooth portion. So go ahead and enlarge these. So now that it's enlarged, I can go ahead and that drops in pretty nicely. So let's go ahead and we're gonna do the same thing on the other side. So I've gone ahead and I've actually filed down those rough edges before dropping these in and you are gonna wanna put a little bit of clear spray paint or whatever color you may have that matches your vehicle in that way, that exposed metal doesn't become rust over time. Now these are gonna be spring loaded and the way we're gonna do that is we're gonna place our flat washer on here first. Followed by our spring. We have one more washer, and then we're gonna follow that up with our nut. I'm gonna just get this hand-tightened on here, but once we get the other three, all we'll have to do is go back and tighten this down until it's flush with the bottom of the bolt. And I'm gonna go ahead and repeat the same process on the other three. Now we'll go back and tighten these nuts up until they're flush with the bottom of the bolt. And then our safety chain loops are going to be done. So now we're almost done underneath the truck. I just went ahead and I put our wire bracket back in place with our 10 millimeter bolts. And now we need to put up our spare tire. And then that should just about finish the install of your gooseneck. Now the final step in finishing touch of this is there is some rubber here that you simply put on the edge. Now I've found over time that these tend to fall off, especially when you're loading in and out quite often. A lot of other underbed kits really don't come with this. So it's up to you if you wanna put that on there just for a little cleaner look, but it's not required by any means. Now's a good time. You have to make sure safety chain loops are actually functioning properly. And here you have, the install of your gooseneck. And now was a look an install of the Curt-Underbed-OEM style custom goose Nick on a 2022 GMC Sierra 2,500 HD..


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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