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Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Kit Installation - 2022 GMC Sierra 2500

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How to Install the Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Kit on a 2022 GMC Sierra 2500

Ryan Hey, everybody. Ryan here at etrailer. Today, on our 2022 GMC Sierra 2500, we're gonna be showing you how to install the CURT fifth wheel installation kit with the in-bed rails. But before we do that, why don't we check it out and make sure that this is something that's gonna work for you So when it comes to putting a hitch in the bed of your pickup truck, you know, there's a ton of different options out there now. And it's really just gonna depend on what you're trying to do. One of the benefits to the fifth wheel rails like these here is it really opens up your opportunities.

So as you know, already, you can put your fifth wheel head in here. It'll bolt up or lock in to the rails, and you can pull your fifth wheel trailer. Or also, there's a lot of different adapters and plates and a lot of different things that'll work with these that'll allow you to have a gooseneck ball back here as well. So like I said, it opens up your opportunities, and having these back here is gonna allow you to pull whatever type of trailer you're trying to tow down the road. So whenever it comes to picking out what hitch you want back here, you know, fifth wheel rails like this, they're pretty straightforward, not really much to 'em.

You know, you just have your brackets on the side that bolt to your frame and your rails. And generally speaking, they're all about the same. With that said, what I look for in these kits is the quality, how well do they fit and how do they look and everything like that. Fitment probably being the most important thing to me. And these actually fit really well, believe it or not.

A lot of times, they'll end up trying to fight you when you're trying to get 'em installed and things just don't wanna line up right and everything else. And these went together pretty smooth, a lot smoother than I anticipated to tell you the truth. And when it comes to that fitment, I primarily see two manufacturers that I like having the best. One of 'em being B&W, and one of 'em being CURT. And I've done B&Ws before, I've done multiple CURTs, and they're about on par with each other.

Sometimes, the B&Ws have a slight advantage. And that wasn't the case at all with this one. So, you know, those are my two recommendations that I would always suggest whenever you're picking out a fifth wheel rail kit to put in the bed of your truck. So the rails are gonna have all your common attachment points, all the spots for your fifth wheel head and everything else to kinda drop into place. Generally speaking, most fifth wheel heads are gonna work with this, at least some that are up to date. You know, I can't speak for every single one, but I guess these are pretty generic, so you should be in pretty good shape there, whether you have really wide attachment points or one kinda in the middle. And then, you even have the ones that are real close together. And actually, our customer today is using these for this adapter piece here. So this doesn't come with it, but I kinda mentioned this earlier how you can use a gooseneck. And so this is gonna drop into the rails and sit like that. So pretty cool, you know And like I said, it opens up your opportunity. Everything fits in snug and let's you get the job done. So this install kit and rails are gonna work for those trucks that have both the short bed and the long bed. So regardless of which one you have, it's gonna bolt in and it's designed for trucks that do not have that OEM prep package. So if your bed inside has some little cutouts that you can pop out, there's usually four or five of 'em, that means they're not gonna need to use this style. They make a lot of really cool hitches now that utilize that prep package and just drop in. So if that's your case, definitely check that out. You can find a ton of 'em right here at etrailer. So I'm gonna admit, I do always like to recommend, obviously, if you're putting an in-bed hitch back here, you're gonna be pulling that fifth wheel or that gooseneck, and those are gonna have seven-way wiring plugs. That way, the lights and everything else works. So I always like to suggest using in-bed wiring. So in our case, our truck has a factory knockout here, and we can utilize that and make it really easy. We're actually putting a kit in today, which is this one, the CURT, so that'll fit right in there. It comes with the wiring. It just plugs in pretty much, so really straightforward. That way, it just makes it a lot easier to plug your wiring in. You know, it's all right here, plugs right in. You're not gonna have to drape that wiring over your tailgate, down to the seven-way on the back of your bumper. So other than that, I mean, at the end of the day, pretty nice kit. You know, it looks good. It went together smooth and everything fits well. So what more can you really ask for As far as the installation goes, it really wasn't too bad. I've done some that are way harder, and some that are a little bit easier. This is definitely on the easier side. So shouldn't give you too many issues. I'd say probably set aside a good half a day, you know, half a Saturday, maybe a little bit more time, depending on how fast you're working and things like that. But you know, really nothing too crazy. Not special tools. There is one that I use to make tightening the bolts a little bit easier, so I'll show you that. And, hopefully, that'll help speed things up if you run into some snags. But you know, shouldn't really fight you too much. But speaking of the installation, why don't we go ahead and put this on together now To begin our installation, you're gonna wanna get up in the bed of your truck. And we need to take a couple of measurements. That way, we can find the placement for our rear rail. So make sure to follow the instructions, and when you're doing this, pay attention to if you have a short bed or a long bed because the measurements can vary. So pay attention to that. Whenever you are measuring as well, make sure you go from the end of the bed itself and not your tailgate. So what you're gonna do is take that measurement, make a couple of lines. That way, you know, you can find where that rail is gonna be. And then, what you're gonna wanna do is center it. The way that you can center it is just measure from the end of the rail to the side of your bed. So generally, you can go from, let's say your wheel well there. But regardless, you wanna make sure that you're taking the same measurement on each side. So you'll take those, split the difference, make sure they're the same on each side, and that'll find that placement for our rear rail. Now, what we can do is come to our rear wheel wells. And if your truck has these liners, we're gonna need to get 'em out of the way, whether it be pulling 'em completely out or just kinda pushing 'em down so we can work. And we'll kinda find out when we get there, but ours has 'em so it's something we need to do. And it looks like we're gonna have two fasteners here, three in the middle, and two more over here. Maybe a couple more too, but all of these that we're gonna take out, we're gonna use a T15 Torx bit. So just start with these. So once all of those are out, up top here, looks like we're gonna have three more. So one of 'em is a 10-millimeter nut. This one here in the center, that's just kinda just a keeper. You can just do this by hand, just unscrew it. We have one more 10 on this side. Now, what we should be able to do, kinda grab this liner, Sorta kinda work it out. We can kinda see what's going on here underneath our frame, so I think we should be able to work like this. If it ends up being hard to see or kinda just a pain, we can always come back and just pull this completely out. But I think we should be in pretty good shape for now, and we'll go ahead and do the same thing over on the other side. So I went ahead and kinda looked a few steps ahead and just seeing what we're gonna have to do. Honestly, I think it might be more trouble just to work around this as opposed to just taking it off. So that's what we're gonna do. In front of the tire, in front and behind the tire, you're gonna have three more T15s. So I got the ones up front out already. Go ahead and pull these out. If I can get to 'em. And with all those out, now, we should be able to just kinda lift this up and move it out of the way. And yeah, this is gonna make it much better, much easier. So I'm glad we did this. It'll be a little bit easier here in the future. So now, what we can do back up in the bed, make sure the rail didn't move on here or anything like that. We're going to mark what holes that we're gonna be drillin' out. So from the outside, working your way in, we're gonna go three sets of holes. So one, two, three. So these ones here. Few ways you can do this. You can use a center punch. I tried. With this bedliner, you can hardly see what's going on there. So you can use a paint marker. What I'm gonna do is just take a small drill bit, put it in the center. Just kinda tear off some of that bedliner, and that'll be good enough for what we're doing. Just marking the spot here. If we continue our way along, in the center here, we're gonna have another hole, and you wanna use the one closest to the back of the truck. Continuing along, same deal on this side, three holes in. So we'll put the marks here and everything should be centered up and more or less ready to go. So since we have everything marked, I moved the rail out of the way just to make it easier. And now, I'm gonna come back with my drill bit, pilot bit, and drill through completely. Not a bad idea to check underneath the truck before you do this. That way, you know, you don't hit something of importance. With that said, we'll go ahead and get these drilled up. Now, back to our wheel wells. We're just gonna check everything before we start getting carried away, drilling out the holes to the correct size. What I did is you'll get two fish wires, two of the metal pull wires in your kit. I just took the ends of 'em and dropped 'em through the pilot holes that we drilled, so they're coming out of here. And this will just give us an idea that everything's lined up. So pick your side plate. These are side-specific, so make sure you grab the right one, and you're just gonna roughly hold it up, and make sure everything lines up. So this is gonna sit like something like that. And I know it's probably gonna be tricky to see, but this is just a quick way to verify that everything lines up. So I'm looking in there, and it looks like our fish wires are lining up with their holes, so I think we'll be in pretty good shape. And now, we can now get everything drilled out to the proper size. So now that we verified everything lines up, we're gonna come back and enlarge these holes to 9/16 in size. I'm using a step bit. So we'll go ahead and get all these done. So with all the holes drilled, I've gone ahead and just kinda cleaned everything up. And since we have some bare metal here, I'm just gonna use a paint stick to put a coating over it, help prevent rust. You can also use spray paint, but I've noticed with that, just be super careful. It kinda isn't the most appealing to the eye. Usually, you can see it kinda bleeding out from under the fifth wheel rail, so that's why I do it this way. And you know, just help get a layer over that exposed metal. So I'll do that for all of our holes. Now, we're back to our frame rail. We can get our hardware in place. So you're gonna take the large bolt and the spacer block with the matching size square hole in it. Take your fish wire. You're gonna thread that onto the bolt. And then, if you look at this hole right here, it's kinda oval shape. Just take the head of the bolt, you probably have to do this one at a time, push the bolt in, and push that spacer block in as well, and pull it back out like this here. Now, we can take this U bolt and towards the back of the truck, in this general area, we're just gonna take this, slide it around our frame, and this should be pretty close. When we hold our side plate up, we might have to move this back or forth or whatever. But at least it's in place and kinda ready for us to put it through our side plate. With the hardware in, we can grab our side-specific side plate and see if I can show you what's going on here. So this hole, that's where that big carriage bolt's gonna go through. And these two holes, that's where the U bolt is gonna go through. So take the fish wire. Push it through. We'll see if we can do this without knocking the U bolt off. Pull at it. And try to get our bolt through here. Now, remove the fish wire. Take the flange nut. Get that going a couple threads. See if we can't manage to get this one here. Get it up. Get our U bolt through there. And then, these are also gonna take some flange nuts and just get 'em started hand-tight for now. Once this side's done, we're gonna repeat the same process over on the other side of our truck. I do wanna say when you're bolting these up, make sure that the inside of your frame rail doesn't have any wires or lines or anything like that you could pinch, that these U bolts could pinch. So just something to think about when you're doing this and double check, so you don't damage anything. So back up in our bed now, what I've done since we already have our holes drilled is I cleaned up that yellow marker, so we're not gonna be able to see it once the rails are in. But we're gonna take the rail, line it on up with the holes. And then, we're gonna take these carriage bolts and simply just drop these down through our holes. When you're doing this, you wanna make sure that they're falling through the side plates too. So for example, if you see, look down in there and the side plate's off, you can take your punch or screwdriver and just kinda, you know, pry it a little bit to get it lined up. But it should be really close. Ours was. Go ahead and just drop all these in there, and make sure the rail's sitting flat and how we want it to be. So what I've done now is just temporarily removed our spare tire. And that's just gonna give us a lot more working room underneath here and just to make it a lot easier to get our hardware started. But with that said, let's go ahead and move over to our driver side, and get the rest of the hardware going. So here's the side plates, and you can see where our bolts from our in-bed rail are coming down. Since there'll be a gap here, you wanna take these spacer blocks and put those in. That way, it doesn't get crushed whenever we're doing this here. So I'll do that on each bolt. And then, you're gonna take this spacer block and a flange nut and put that over it. And we're gonna get these started hand-tight. I'll get this one going. And same deal for this one here. And then, you repeat this same process over on the other side. And we'll have one more in the middle that we need to do as well. So here's what the middle one looks like. It obviously doesn't come through a rail or anything. So all you're gonna do where the bolt comes down is put up one of those U-shaped spacer blocks. And again, another one of those flat ones like we used on the other side and the flange nut. Over on the passenger side, you are gonna have this heat shield. And what I was able to do is just kinda bend it down some to give us the room that we need. You may have to remove this, kinda just depends once we get our front rail on. But for the time being, this is gonna give us enough space, and we'll kinda cross that bridge for the front one whenever we get there. So now with all the hardware in place and hand-tight on our side plates and our back rail, we can take the front rail and we're just gonna get it roughly into position. And then, at this point, you're gonna take your fifth wheel or whatever it is that you plan on using back here. In our case, we have this conversion that's just a plate that gives us a gooseneck ball. So that's what we're gonna be using. You're gonna put that into the back rail, and then line it up with the front rail. If I can manage to get it to go in here. So set that down, and we're gonna use this plate to determine or use our hitch to determine where this rail needs to go. So we'll make sure it's pushed up nice and tight. And since it can still move side to side, what I'm gonna do is grab our tape measure, just like we did the back one, make sure this is centered and where it needs to be. I'll go ahead and mark that out. And then, we can kinda continue to move forward. So I went ahead and got our rail centered the same way we did the other one. Just measured the distance on each side, and you want 'em to be the same. And essentially, we're gonna be doing pretty much the same thing that we did for the back one. So we're gonna be using, one, two, three in. I'll just take my bit and make a mark there. And then, for the one in the middle, you're gonna wanna use the side that's closest to the front of our truck. So this one here, it's really the only difference compared to the back one, for this part, at least. And then again, over here, you're gonna go three in. Now that we have our marks made, it's just gonna be a little easier to work. I'll go ahead and lift everything out of place. That way, we can get our pilot holes completely drilled and finally enlarge 'em to the correct size. So with everything out of the way, I went around and drilled our pilot holes. And now, we'll come back with a step bit and enlarge 'em to the correct size here. So I did the same thing. Once we have our holes enlarged, I cleaned everything up, wiped the paint off, I put paint over the bare metal. And now, we'll grab our rail. Line that on up. Take our carriage bolts and drop 'em through all of our attachment points. So what I think I'm gonna do is take our hitch and put it just back into place. And I feel like this will kind of just prevent anything from shifting or anything like that while we work on getting the rest of our hardware in and getting everything tightened down. So now, underneath the truck, we can get our hardware going. And kinda tight back here, a little hard to see, so bear with us here. But the ones we're gonna work on first will be the three bolts closest to the front of the truck. So you got your center on, and then the one on each side. So since these aren't going through the actual side plates or anything, just our truck bed, what you're gonna do for all those is take this thick spacer, and then that spacer, all right And you're gonna stack them on top of each other, and put 'em over the bolt. Like that. And then, you can take a flange nut and get it started hand-tight. So I'm gonna use that same hardware combo for the other two bolts closest to the front of our truck. So the front bolt here on the driver side, pretty tricky to get to from underneath 'cause it's right above our fuel tank. But from the side, you can actually see it pretty decent. Still tight though, to get in here with both of your hands and work. So I'm gonna try this out, I think it might work. I just taped our spacer blocks together with some packing tape. Then, I used some Vise-Grips here to kinda hold it. And I think, hopefully, I can kinda do one of these deals to hold that in place, and then take our nut and get it started. It's definitely gonna be tight. It might take you a couple tries, but I think this might be the easiest way to get this started here. It actually worked out pretty well. I'll just go ahead and get our Vise-Grips off. So now, for the bolts that actually go through our side plates, just like the other ones, you're gonna take these U-shaped blocks and put 'em on top of the side plate, so in between the corrugation of the bed and the side plate, so it's gonna fill that void. So we're just gonna do this from the side as well. I think this might be the best bet for these. So I'll get that and up. And then, we're gonna have that square spacer block that's gonna slide up over the bolt and our flange nut. So see if we can do this. And so this is kinda tight and that's with a bunch of different hardware here. One thing you can do too, if it's really fighting 'ya, say if that bolt keeps wanting to push up when you try to get everything on, if you have to, you can always go up top and either have a friend kinda push down on the bolt or even just put some tape on it. Kinda tape it to the rail and that can make it easier sometimes if it keeps fighting 'ya. And instead of hold this block, I might just try to use a magnet here. It's just hard to kinda hold everything together and do this. So a magnet will buy me a little bit more space, hopefully. So once you have all of your hardware and placing it in tight, we can just snug everything down. And what you wanna do is kinda work, what I like to do is work my way from the middle out. So I'll tighten these two bolts. And then, more or less what you wanna make sure of is that you're gonna tighten down the base rails or the rails first. So you tighten these down, and then the ones on the side. And then, once those are snug, then you come to your frame plates or your side plates and snug them down. So go ahead, grab a 3/4-inch, 19-millimeter socket and wrench, and I'll start getting everything tightened. So like I said, once all the bolts holding the rails on are tightened up, we'll come back and hit our side plates here. When you tighten up the U bolt, you wanna try to run it down evenly. That way, it kinda just draws everything together how it should. So what I like to do is just kinda hit it a little bit on each side, and try to get the same amount of threads exposed early as relatively close. So once everything's tight, we need to make sure and come back with a torque wrench and actually torque everything down to the amount specified in the instructions. I'm gonna use that same tightening sequence that we did to snug everything up. If you don't have a torque wrench, you can grab one here at etrailer. Or a lot of times, you go to your local auto parts store, they'll have one there available to rent. And pay attention to the torque specs when you're doing this 'cause there's three different specs. Some for these carriage bolts, some for the big bolts, and then some for the U bolts. So just make sure you got the appropriate setting for the appropriate bolt. So I am well aware that some of the bolts underneath the bed, or some of the nuts rather, are just in that kind of a tight spot. You know, there's really no other way around it. If you're torque wrench has a really thick head or something like that and you're having a real hard time getting the socket on it, what you could do is use a tool like this. So I call it a dog bone. But what it's gonna do is connect to your torque wrench, and then have a low-profile design and kinda get everything pulled away from outside. And this is what I use to torque those down. So definitely would recommend. If you don't have one, you can probably pick some up at your auto parts store or something like that. 3/4 inches in size is what I used, and it really did make things much easier. So once everything is torqued, I went ahead and just reinstalled our wheel well liners the opposite way that we removed them. And that's really all there is to it. Everything's pretty much wrapped up now. I'm gonna wait to put my spare tire back up because I have some in-bed wiring that I'm gonna run. And so it's probably gonna be easier with the tire out of the way to do that underneath the truck. So if that's what you're gonna be doing next, putting a wiring connector in your truck bed, probably wait to put the spare up. If you're not or already have that done, simply just raise that spare tire back into position. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the CURT in-bed fifth wheel rails with the custom installation kit on our 2022 GMC Sierra 2500..

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Jacob H
Test Fit:
Jacob H
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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