bing tracking image

Curt Class I Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Volkswagen Jetta

content loading

Customers compare C11474 to these similar products

Products Featured in this Video

How to Install the Curt Class I Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Volkswagen Jetta

Today on our 2017 Volkswagen Jetta, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the current Class 1 custom for Trailer Hitch receiver, part number C11474. So here's where our hitch is gonna look like, once we have it installed on our Jetta. It is gonna sit right below the bumper and that cross tube is gonna be visibile just right below. Now our hitch is a Class 1, which means it's gonna give us that inch and a quarter by inch and a quarter receiver tube opening. And it's gonna be great for adding a bike rack or a cargo carrier onto the back of our Jetta. Now, the way we're gonna mount all of our accessories, is to the hitch pin hole here on the side and it gonna accept a standard half inch pining clip.

The safety chain connection points, are gonna be a plate style welded to the bottom of the receiver tube and the cross tube. And as you can see, we're not gonna have any trouble getting most size hooks on or off, just keep in mind if you are using some rather small hooks, it may be a little difficult to get in through the side here. Our hitch is gonna have a 200 pound tongue weight, which is gonna be the maximum downward force at the receiver too. It's also gonna have a 2000 pound gross trailer eight rating, which is the amount I can pull including the trailer and everything you have loaded on it. Now keep in mind, that you always want to double check your Jetta's owner manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight.

Now Curt also recommends the use of a stabilization strap, any time that you're towing any non trailer loads or any loads that aren't supported by tires like bike racks, or cargo carriers. I'd like to give you a few measurements and that's gonna help you in deciding for accessories for your new hitch, such as a bike rack or a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch hold the outermost edge of the bumper, It's gonna be right about five inches. Our measurement's gonna come in handy when you're looking at your folding accessories, to make sure you have adequate clearance, so that it won't come in contact with the rear bumper. And from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, it's gonna be right about nine and three core inches.

At that height, I would definitely recommend a bike rack or a cargo carrier with a rare shank, that way we get that little bit of extra ground clearance. So now, that we've seen what our hitch looks like and going over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. To begin our installation, want to come to the very rear on the passenger side and have this plastic underbody panel that we're gonna need to remove. Now we're gonna have three torch bit screws that are holding it in place, and be using a T25 torch bit to pull those out. We're also gonna have two plastic nuts that are holding it in place.

We'll be using a 10 millimeter socket to pull those out. Now, these aren't gonna all, they're not gonna come all the way out of the panel. They're just gonna loosen up and then we can pull down to remove it from the stop. Once we have all those removed, we're gonna go ahead and set the panel aside 'cause we will be reinstalling it later. And we're gonna have our EVAP a canister underneath that panel and we are gonna have to temporarily lower it down. So we're gonna have three bolts that are holding it in place. And again, we'll be using that 10 millimeter socket. So once we have all the bolts loose, we're just gonna kind of move it a little bit just that we had an access to our frame rail here. Now on the driver's side, we're gonna have to lower the exhaust and we're gonna be doing it by coming directly to the muffler and just towards the center, we're gonna have two bolts holding the hanger in place. Now normally, it is a good idea to support the exhaust to make sure it doesn't hang down too far, but if we follow it back, it's gonna be above the axle here. So it really can't go too far anyway. I'm gonna take a 13 millimeter socket and pull the two bolts out for the exhaust tanker. Now, when we do lure our exhaust we don't wanna slide the rubber hanger off, we want to make sure that we take it down by the bracket and leave the hanger attached to the muffler. Now on the passenger side frame rail here, we're gonna have several holes that are gonna be in the bottom. Now towards the very front we're gonna have a rather large hole and if we move back, we're gonna be working with the hole right behind it. And then the next one right behind that. So we're gonna take our fish wire, we're gonna take the coiled end of it, we're gonna feed it in, through the hole towards the back. Quick trick, so you just put a small bend in it so that when we put it, in it'll face down. Should have a little bit easier of a time getting it to come through the access hole. You need to, you can kind of reach up into the frame and grab the coiled end. Now you wanna make sure that you don't pull it all the way through, you want to leave that tail sticking out. So then we can take our square space of block slide it over the coiled end of it, then we're gonna grab one of our 716 carriage bolt, which is gonna be the smaller of the ones in our kit and we're gonna thread it onto the coiled end. Now, one piece at a time we're gonna feed our hardware into the frame. Once it's in the frame, we're gonna go ahead and pull our wire until it comes out the bottom of the frame. Now we're gonna repeat that for this hole as well. Now we're gonna have to move to the inside of our trunk and we're gonna have to remove all the floor covers. We'll pull out the mat, that's covering our spare tire, all the tools and the spare tire itself. Now on the driver's side we're gonna have a gray plug at the bottom of our trunk. We gonna need to pull the plug out. So I'm just gonna use a flathead screwdriver, just to pry up on it and pull it out. Now with an extra set of hands, we're gonna raise our hitch into position. On the passenger side, we're gonna feed the fish wires through our hitch, through the corresponding holes. We're gonna raise it up until the bolts are gonna be coming through the hitch. Now once we have our bolts coming through our hitch, we're gonna remove the coal wire. We're gonna take a 716 flange nut and then get at least one on this side, so it'll support the hitch. Now on the driver's side, it is gonna be easier if we flip our exhaust hanger down and back, so that we can get our hitch in between the frame up here and our exhaust hanger, we can rotate it back in the position. And you want to sandwich the hitch between the exhaust hanger and the bottom of the frame. Then we can take our 13 millimeter socket and an extension, we're gonna feed it up till it lines up with the factory holes and we'll give them loosely started. And we can get the rest of our hardware in, at least hand tight. Finally, we'll pull our pull wire off, put our flange nut on the other bolt at the bottom of the frame. And we're gonna have one more bolt hole on the side on our passenger side frame rail, and we're gonna use the same technique of taking our pull wire feeding it in through the hitch and in through the frame and we're gonna feed it back until we can reach it at the access hole. Now once we have it out, we wanna be extremely careful 'cause this is a rather long run. So we don't want to pull our pull wire out from the top. So again, just slide over that spacer, put our 716 carriage bolt in place and then push each piece into the frame. And we're gonna pull on our pole wire, gonna take a little bit of wiggling back and forth to get it to come out. And we can remove the pole wire, we wanna be extremely careful not to push that bolt back into the frame and then we're gonna secure it with another 716 flange nut. Now we can move back into the inside of our trunk. Now from the inside of our trunk, we're gonna have a teardrop shaped spacer with a square hole along with a half inch carriage bolt. Now this is gonna be sitting on the floor of our trunk, but to seal out the area that we had the grot, I'm gonna take a little bit of silicone, I'm gonna put a bit around my spacer and that'll prevent any kind of exhaust rooms from entering the inside of our vehicle. Put some silicone on our spacer, we're gonna take our carriage bolt and drop it through. And have our bolt drop down and then lay our spacer down, making sure it's seated all the way. I know that silicone's gonna make good contact and fill up any kind of gap that we may have. And just for good measure, I'm gonna come back and I'm gonna put a little bit of silicone going around the edge of my spacer, that where I know I'm not gonna have any leaks. And we can come back and clean up any of the excess silicone after we're done. So our bolt did drop down through the bracket coming back off of our pitch and we're gonna secure it using a half inch flange nut. Now whenever we're gonna tighten this down, again you just wanna make sure that you don't push the bolt up into the trunk. Now that we have all of our hardware in place, we can start coming by and snuck it all up. And for our MA bolts holding our exhaust in place and our hitch on the driver's side, I am using that same 13 millimeter socket. Now over here on the passenger side for our 716 hardware, I'm gonna be using an 1116 socket. And for our half hitch flange nut here, we're using a three quarter inch socket. I'm gonna come back and I'm gonna torque all of my hardware down to the specified amount in instructions. And we'll repeat that for all of our remaining hardware. You just wanna make sure you double check the torque specs for each bolt, because each size is gonna have a different rating. So we can go ahead and lift our canister back into position. So make sure all the holes line up when it's resting and little tabs. And grab our 10 millimeter socket and bolts and put them back. Now in order to get our panel back place, that covers our EVAP canister on the passenger side, we are gonna have to trim a small section so that we have a relief for our pitch here. We already want to have it marked out the area that we're gonna need to cut. And basically, if we find that little indentation that's gonna be at the back of our cover, we're just gonna go right on the inside and about a half inch out, so it's about a half inch wide, maybe a little bit more and about five inches long. So we're gonna cut this out, so that we bring our cover in and slide it in place, so that relief will be there so we can get it all the way in. I'm gonna be using a rotary tool to cut this out, but you can use whatever you have available, a razor knife or a pair of 10 snips will work too, since it is just plastic. Now we can test fit this to make sure that our cut is gonna be big enough, 'cause we can always cut more if we need to. So the panel trimmed out, it'll come from the front side, bringing it towards the back, line up our panel, making sure that the nuts started on the studs, and then we can start replacing all of our hardware. Now what we have left to do is put our spare tire back and all the floor coverings in the trunk. And that'll finish up your look at the Class 1 custom to Trailer Hitch receiver part number C11474, on our 2017 Volkswagen Jetta..

Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

At we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.