Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2019 Toyota RAV4

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How to Install the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2019 Toyota RAV4


Hi there, RAV4 owners. Today, on your 2019 Toyota RAV4 we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install CURT's 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness. And this is what our harness is going to look like when it's installed and in the in use position. It drapes down from the inside of the vehicle out the back and it provides you with a 4-pole flat trailer connector that's going to give you all the necessary lighting for your trailer, which includes your left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps and brake lamps, so you'll be DOT compliant in all states. On the end of our connector we've got a dust cap to help keep out any dirt and debris to ensure a long lasting connection. And if you've got it in the in use position but you're currently not hooked to your trailer, you can keep it up off the ground by using the dust cap to secure it to the safety chain loop on your hitch.When you're all done using your wiring harness, it's stored inside the vehicle.

And what's nice about this is that it protects it from the elements. It's not going to be exposed to any of that moisture and harsh weather conditions if it was staying on the outside, which ensures our connectors here in our 4-pole are going to last longer and be corrosion free. Your harness will store in the spare tire storage compartment at the back of the vehicle when you're not using it. What I like to do is just wrap it up, and then I use the dust cap to wrap around the wiring, clip it onto itself, and that will keep it in a nice little bundle here in the back. When using your harness and placing it in the it use position, you just draped it down over the back, the harness is going to be pinched in between your weatherstripping and your lift gate, and it's not going to cause any damage to it, it's actually going to keep it nice and tight and prevent it from pulling out.The only thing you want to do is make sure you avoid the striker here in the middle as that could potentially cause damage to it.

You can see here it's nice and snug so we can go ahead and hook it up to our trailer. And one of the things I really like about this harness is that it has a module that is part of it that protects the circuitry on your vehicle. The way it works is the module has connectors that are custom fit for your RAV4 that plug inline between your left and right side tail light assemblies. The module monitors all the wiring signals going to those tail lights, and then the module reproduces those signals and sends it to your trailer at the back. What's nice about that is that since the module is producing all those signals and it has its own fused powered circuit, that if there's any faults on your trailer, rather than causing any fuses or damage to the circuitry on your vehicle, it'll just open the fuse that goes to your module.So none of the circuitry or wiring on your vehicle will ever be effected by faults on your trailer.

The module has an output of up to 3 amps on the tail lamp circuit, which is going to be more than enough for your medium and some of your large size trailers, and you have up to 6 amps on your stop turn circuits, which again is going to be plenty fine for those medium as well as some of your larger size trailers as long as you don't have an abundance of lights on there. We'll begin our installation at the back of the vehicle with our lift gate open and we'll need to remove all the panels here at the back. They simply just pull out, so we're just going to lift up, take this guy out, set it aside, and then we're also going to remove both of the side panels. These ones you have to pull up a little bit to make them unclick. But then we'll set those aside as well.

Then we can remove the threshold across the back. Start on one side and just work your way up.Pulling on it, it will come off. It's a little tight and then just gently work your way across. We'll set that aside as well. If we go our threshold at the top of the panel here, it will have a clip. We'll use our flat bladed screwdriver to pop out the center of the clip, and then we can pull the entire clip out once the center has been pulled out. We're going to do this on the other side as well. On the bottom, on the inside of our panel we'll have a hook that we're going to want to remove and you can do that using a 10 millimeter socket by removing the bolt in the center. We'll also remove the one on the other side as well. We can then take our weatherstripping and we're just going to pull it back, exposing our paneling here. And that's as far as we need to go because we're only going to be taking off this piece. We're not going to be taking off anything above that.So now that we've got that removed, if you look down in the crack, it is a little difficult to see, but there are clips every so often. And we're going to take our trim panel tool and we're going to get behind these clips and we're going to pry them out. Just like that. Make sure you get each one, slowly working your way up, removing each clip. Once you've got all the clips removed, we can push out on our paneling. Now, it's not going to come all the way out, but that's okay. We don't need it to, we're just trying to access our tail light wiring back here. You'll find your tail light wiring connector located right here. We'll need to disconnect that. So we're going to press in on the release tab and then pull the connector out. If you're having a difficult time doing this, kind of like I am there, because it's pretty tight to get your hands in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver to push down on the release tab, and then pop it out.Now that we've got it disconnected, we can take our new harness and we're going to be using the connectors that are attached with red and yellow wires. You do have another set here with a green, but this is for our passenger side. So we're now going to take this and plug it into our factory connector on the other side of our new harness. We'll take the other end of our factory harness and plug it in to there. Now we can take the green wire, we're going to stretch it on out, and this is going to run down behind our paneling. We're going to keep it underneath the threshold when we reinstall it, and this is going to go over to our passenger side. So we're just going to leave these guys here, take our green, and just run this over to this side. We're going to remove the paneling on this side just like we did on the driver's side.With our panel pulled back on the passenger side, you'll find a connection. It looks just like it did over on the driver's side. We're going to remove that one, and just like we did on the driver's side, we're going to take the green wire that we routed across and behind our paneling, and we're going to plug it in line between these two connectors. The black wire coming off of our module, we'll have a wire that will run to the front that'll connect to a few scientists into our battery. Before we secure our module behind our paneling, it's usually easier to run the wiring up first so we can make the connection where we can more easily access it. With our paneling pulled out, if we look straight down, it is a bit difficult to see, but there is a grommet located down here at the bottom. And we can just take this and we're just going to push the grommet and it should fall out down below. We've now got an access hole to get our wiring fed up.Here's the grommet that fell down on the ground. We're going to save that because we're going to cut it and pass our wire through it so that way it'll still seal up on the inside of the vehicle. So now we've taken the black wire that comes in our kit and you've got a large amount that runs to the front. I'm just poking it through the grommet. I made a little cut on it so I can pass the wire through. And then we're just going to reach up down below and poke this grommet back up into its location. The grommet will just poke right back into place on the underside. Well, now take the black wire that we fed up through our grommet, we're going to strip it back, and then we'll use the yellow butt connectors that come included with our kit and connect it to the black wire coming off of our module on our new harness.We're just going to crimp it down. Giving it a little twist makes it easier to get all the strands poked into your butt connector. Now that we've got our black wire connected, we can go ahead and secure our module. We're going to do that using the double sided adhesive that comes in your kit. Peel off one backing. We're going to then apply it to our module. And then I recommend using a little bit of alcohol on a rag to clean the area where you're going to stick it. We're just going to be putting ours here on the back wall behind our paneling here. Clean that off. We can then take our module, peel off the backing on the opposite side, and then we'll just reach up in here and stick it into place. And you just want to press it there for about 15 to 20 seconds to ensure good adhesion.Coming off of your module, you'll also have a white wire with a ring terminal that's pre-attached to it. This is our ground wire. So we're just going to bring that over here where we can more easily access it, and we're going to use the included self tapping screw to run it in place. And we'll just run that in. Make sure that it's nice and tight. And then we can move on to routing our black wire up to the front. When routing this wiring, you want to make sure you avoid anything excessively hot such as your exhaust and any moving components such as your steering and suspension. I'm going to route this wire now and then I'll show you the path I took to get it there. Our wiring came out of our grommet. From there, we routed it towards the front and stayed above our rear suspension. We stayed all the way above it until we came out at the front of it here and then followed the strap for our gas tank down. Went ahead and zip tied it there.From here, we stay above this paneling and we actually stay above this paneling all the way to the front. Now, if you've got an all wheel drive model, you may have a drive shaft here that might make this routing a little bit more difficult. But if you've got the front wheel drive model, like we do, this is all open in here, so you can just get your hand up in there and leave that wiring on top of this paneling all the way to the front here. And once we get to the front here, we're going to feed this up into our engine compartment. We're going to do that using a fish wire. So what I've done is I've taken a piece of airline tubing, but you could also use a metal coat hanger, and from the top poke it down to where you can grab it below and then you can use some electrical tape to tape your wiring to it. And then that fish wire, we'll pull it up so we can access it in our engine compartment above.We can then pull up our fish wire now that we're up top. And we're just going to leave it there for now. This is going to connect to our battery positive, but in between this black wire and our battery positive post here, we need to put in some circuit protection. So we're going to install the fuse harness that comes in our kit. These come pre-stripped on each end, so what we're going to do is put a ring terminal on one end to connect there and then a heat shrink butt connector to connect to our black wire. We'll start by putting the ring terminal on our fuse harness, that just crimps on to one side. After we've got the ring terminal crimped on, we can install it onto our battery positive. So we'll use a 12 millimeter socket to remove the nut here. We will slide our ring terminal over the stud, and then we'll reinstall the nut.We can now take our black wire and cut off the excess that we have there. I do like to leave a little bit of excess so we have some mobility to move it around for future repairs, but we don't need all of the amount that we have there. Once you've cut off the excess, we'll strip back our black wire on this end. And then we're going to crimp on a heat shrink butt connector onto our black wire. Now heat shrink butt connectors don't come included with your kit, but you can pick up here at etrailer.com. We decided to upgrade because it will keep out any moisture, ensuring a long lasting connection that is corrosion free. On the other side of our black wire, we are going to crimp the other end of our fuse harness. We'll then use a heat gun to shrink down our butt connector.We can now insert the fuse that comes included with our kit into our fuse harness. And we're now ready to test our system out and make sure everything's working properly. To test out your wiring, you can either plug it into a tester, like we have here, which you can get at etrailer.com, or you could plug it into your trailer. You want to verify that your tail lights are operating properly as well as your left turn signal, right turn signal, and brake lamps. With everything working properly, we can reinstall the panels in the back in reverse order of how we remove them and clean up any of our wiring using the included zip ties in the kit to have a nice tidy installation. And that completes our installation of CURT's 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on our 2019 Toyota RAV4.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Video by:
Aidan B
Test Fit:
Conner L
Test Fit:
David F

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