Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2014 Honda Odyssey

content loading



Customers compare C51140 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video




How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2014 Honda Odyssey


Today on our 2014 Honda Odyssey we'll be installing the etrailer universal installation brake controller install kit part number ETBC7. To begin our install we'll first need to locate the four pole flat harness already installed on the vehicle. Now since this is mounted inside the vehicle and we'll need to get it routed outside the vehicle we'll need to remove the rear threshold. To remove the rear threshold remove the two cargo fasteners, one on each side. We use a flat blade screwdriver or an interior trim panel tool while pulling up and out on the threshold to release the fasteners underneath. Now, once the fasteners release we'll go ahead and set the threshold aside. Underneath the threshold is a manufacturers grommet.

We can remove the grommet and using a pair of side cutters cut a section out of the grommet large enough to slide my wire through. You notice this hole is not large enough to get our four pole wire out through it so we'll need to cut the wire in half, making sure where we cut the wire will remain inside the vehicle because inside the vehicle it'll be less susceptible to the outside elements. Now with the wire cut we'll need to route it from underneath the vehicle up through the access hole where we removed the grommet. To assist in routing the wire we can use a pull wire which can be a stiff piece of wire or in this case a piece of air tubing. We'll route it through the grommet hole and down underneath the vehicle. We'll attach the four pole wire that we cut to the pull wire with black electrical tape and then pull it up into position. Then we'll go ahead and remove the pull wire.

We'll peel back the wires and strip back both sides and reconnect them color for color. White to white, brown to brown, Yellow to yellow, and green to green. Now once we reconnected our four pole harness we'll go ahead and wrap up this connection point with some black electrical tape to help keep out any dirt, dust, debris, or moisture. Now we'll go ahead and put the grommet over the wire and reinstall the grommet. We'll go ahead and secure our wiring as necessary with some black zip ties. We'll cut off the excess from the zip ties and then reinstall the threshold. Now we'll move underneath the vehicle.

Then we'll go ahead and mount the tow ready mounting bracket directly to the vehicle using the worm gear clamp provided. This is the tow ready mounting bracket part number 18136. Once we secure the mounting bracket directly to the hitch we can go ahead and make the connection with the two four full connectors. Next, we'll need to connect our grey duplex cable to the black and blue wires from our seven pole connector. To do this we'll strip back several inches of the grey duplex cable and then strip back the wires underneath. The black and white.

We'll connect black to black and blue to white. Now with all our wires connected I recommend to wrap them up with some black electrical tape. This will help keep the connection points free and clear of dirt, dust, debris, or moisture and help bundle up our wires for a cleaner install look. Now with that done we'll go ahead and start securing the wires to the back of the hitch as we route them over to the drivers side frame rail. Once we reach the frame we'll then feed the wire up over the hitch between the hitch and trunk pan and then over the rear suspension system noting to be careful when routing your wires to stay away from any moving components such as a steering suspension or excessive heat such as exhaust. We'll continue routing the grey duplex cable up to the front of the vehicle and ultimately to the top of the engine compartment. Now that we've got our wires routed over to the frame we'll go ahead and take the white wire with the pre-attached ring terminal and run it up to the frame where we'll use the self-tapping screw provided with the install kit and ground the ring terminal directly to the frame and this will be the ground for our new seven and four pole connectors. Now to make it easier and assist in routing our wiring and installing the brake controller install kit, we'll go ahead and remove the air box cover and intake. To remove the air box cover we'll need to loosen the band clamp around the intake then remove the wiring connector from the top of the air box. Next we'll go ahead and undo the four snaps around the air box filter. Now with the three snaps undone we'll go ahead and pull it up and out of the way. We'll set it aside for re-installation later. To remove the air intake we'll need to remove the two pushpin fasteners that secure it. To remove the pushpins fasteners we'll pry out its center and then remove this fastener completely. Once we have them both out of the way we'll pull up on the intake which will release it and we can set it aside. Now with the intake pieces out of the way it'll give us easier access to routing our wires and installing our breakers on the inner fender well. Now that we've got our wire routed up to the bottom of the engine compartment we'll go ahead and use a pull wire which can be a piece of air tubing or a stiff piece of wire to assist in routing the wire to the top of the engine compartment. Once we route the pull wire into position we can go ahead and attach it to our grey duplex cable with some black electrical tape and then pull it into position. Now with our wire in position and approximate routing we'll go ahead and mark it. First for the length of wire that will ultimately be necessary to route up to our breaker. Second, we'll make a mark where the wire meets the firewall and will be going into the cabin of the vehicle. Now with our two marks made we'll go ahead and move back underneath the vehicle and pull the wire back down. Going from mark to mark we'll go ahead and cut the sheathing off the wire. Now with the sheathing removed we'll go ahead and pull the wire back up to the top of the engine compartment where we can cut off the excess wire. We'll then go ahead and use a utility knife to cut holes in the manufacturers grommet so that we can make the wire runs into the cabin of the vehicle. With the grommet cut on both the inside and out we'll use a pull wire to assist in getting our wire into position. Once we route the pull wire through the grommet we'll then take the cut off piece of the grey duplex cable and attach it to our pull wire and pull it into position. Once it's in position we can go ahead and remove the pull wire and attach the white wire to the grey duplex cable using the duplex cable as our pull wire to pull the white wire into the cabin of the vehicle. Now we'll go ahead and remove the electrical tape from the white wire and the grey duplex cable. We'll go ahead and set our wires aside as we're now ready to mount our brake controller. We're using the Curt Triflex Brake Controller part number C51140. Along with the Curt Universal Brake Controller Wiring Adapter part number C51515. To mount the brake controller we'll use the bracket and hardware provided with the brake controller. We'll mount the bracket here to the dash and then the brake controller to the bracket. Now that we've got that secured we'll go ahead and take the universal wiring adapter, the red wire, inside which will connect directly to the vehicles brake switch. We'll need to connect it to the brake switch wire that'll be hot only when the brake pedal is depressed. To locate that we'll use our test light. We'll put our test light back probing the brake switch connector and press on the pedal until we get the one that's hot only when the pedal is depressed. Note it will be necessary for the ignition to be in the auxiliary position while testing. Now that we've located the manufactures wire which is a teal-ish color, we'll need to remove some of the wire loom around it to make our connection. To make this easier we'll go ahead and remove the connector from the socket. We'll press on the locking tab and pull the connector out. Then we'll go ahead and use our utility knife to cut back some of the wire loom. Now with the wire loom out of the way we'll go ahead and use our quick splice connector to put over the manufacturers wire, then slide the red wire into the quick splice connector and crimp it down. Once we have it crimped down we can close the clasp. Then we'll go ahead and wrap up this section of wire and connection point with some black electrical tape. Once we've got it wrapped up we can go ahead and reinstall the connector back into the switch socket. Next, we'll take the universal wiring adapter and start connecting it with the wires we ran into the cabin of the vehicle. We'll cut off any excess as necessary and strip back the end. Then we'll go ahead and use the bud connector provided with our brake controller install kit to attach it to the white wire that we ran from the back of the vehicle at the seven pole connection point. This white wire will be connected to the blue wire coming from our brake controller wire and adapter. This will provide power to the trailer braking. Next well go ahead and prepare the power and ground wire for our brake controller which will be the black and white wire inside the grey duplex cable. Well go ahead and strip back the grey duplex cable and then the two wires. Well add a bud connector to each wire and then connect the wires to the black and white wire for our brake controller adapter. Now with all our connections made well go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape. Next well go ahead and wrap up the brake controller pig tail with some black electrical tape to help bundle up our wires and clean up our install look. We can then take the connector from the brake controller pig tail and plug it in to the brake controller wiring adapter. Now with all our connections made were ready to secure our wiring up underneath the dash. Once again, keep in mind to keep your wires away from any moving components such as the brake pedal or steering shaft. Next we'll move back underneath the hood where we'll need to mount our breakers. We'll mount two breakers. One 40 amp breaker which will get connected to the seven pole power and the second will be a 20 amp breaker for our brake controller. To mount the breakers we use the self-tapping screws provided with our install kit. Now with both breakers mounted we'll start by securing our power wire for the 40 amp breaker. The silver side will lead to the seven pole connector. The copper side will lead to a hot lead that goes directly to the battery. To connect to the silver side of the breaker we'll go ahead and strip back the wire and add the yellow ring to our terminal provided with our install kit and secure it to our breaker. Next we'll go ahead and take our grey duplex cable, run it over to our breaker. We'll go ahead and mark it and strip back the grey duplex cable and cut off the sheathing. We'll then go ahead and cut the black wire to fit, strip it back, and add a small ring terminal and secure it to our 20 amp breaker. This will be the power lead going to our new brake controller. The white wire will continue routing over to the negative battery terminal. We'll cut off any excess length, strip back, and add a large ring terminal and secure it directly to the negative battery terminals stud. Now with our ground wire secured we'll need to make two leads to go from the copper side of our breakers to the positive battery terminal. We'll go ahead and take two pieces of wire, strip back both ends, and add the two small ring terminals. We'll secure them and all of our connections on our breaker and then route our wires over to the positive battery terminal. Once we route to the positive battery terminal we can cut off any excess length, strip back both wires, and add two large ring terminals. We'll then remove the nut from the positive battery terminal stud, install the ring terminals, and re-secure the nut. Now to close the positive battery terminal cap we'll need to cut a slice in the cap to allow for the wiring we just added. Once we do that we'll now go ahead and secure our wiring as necessary. Cut off the excess from our zip ties to clean up our install look and we're now ready to reinstall the air intake pieces. With that, this will complete the install of our etrailer Universal Install Kit part number ETBC7 along with the Curt Triflex Brake Controller part number C51140, the Curt Wiring Adapter part number C51515, and our Tow Ready No Drill Mounting Bracket part number 18136 on our 2014 Honda Odyssey.


Questions and Comments about this Video

add comment

Info for these parts were:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Shane T
Test Fit:
Randy B
Test Fit:
Joe B
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Test Fit:
Robert C
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Andrew K
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Mike H
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Video Edited:
Sue W
Video Edited:
Chad S
Video Edited:
Chris R
Installed by:
Cole B
Video by:
Alan C
Video by:
Zach D
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Video by:
David F
Video by:
Michael B

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.