bing tracking image

Blue Ox Base Plate Kit Installation - 2014 Ford Edge

content loading

Customers compare BX2628 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit on a 2014 Ford Edge


Today on our 2014 Ford Edge, we're going to show you how to install the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit with the Removable Arms, part number BX2628. Here's what the base plate looks like once it's installed on the vehicle and the removable arms are in place. As you can see, they use a pushpin style fastener. Just beside that you're going to have your safety chain connection points, that's going to be on both sides. Right here in the middle, slightly offset to the right or to the driver's side you're going to have your connection points for your wiring. Now we didn't set wiring up on this base place setup yet, so we don't have anything in place but you could notch out back behind there just like we did for the base plate and that's going to allow you to get your plug in there, no problem. The arms themselves, simply by pulling and rotating, we're going to be able to take those off and it really gives us a nice, clean look. Not nearly as big as a lot of the things you see out here on the front of the vehicle.

As far as everyday driving is concerned, this isn't going to have any kind of hindrance on it other than just a little bit of cosmetic there, but really nothing that's going to stand out. To get our arms back in place we just slide them in. You'll rotate them until you feel them go in. That'll allow you to push the pin and then we'll just spin it until it goes into the catch. Then we can hook our tow bar up right to the back of our RV and get everything connected. To begin our installation, we'll need to open the hood on the edge here.

Let's prop it up to keep it out of the way. Then we're going to have a panel that runs right across the front here. If we take a 10-millimeter socket, we can pull out the 2 bolts here. Then with a Phillips screwdriver we'll just start loosening the centers of our pushpin fasteners. I like to just pull the core all the way out and then we should be able to lift up on it once we get the other 3 of these out and those will come with it.

All right, set those aside so we can reuse them. Inside of each wheel well, we're going to have 3 bolts that are going to require a 5.5 millimeter socket. We'll have the 1 here, 2, and then our third one right down here. Let's just pull these out on each side. Head over to the driver's side and do it there. Here just underneath the front of the vehicle, we're going to take out, this is the front mud flap that's just in front of the passenger side tire. There's going to be 3 more bolts here that are going to require the 5.5 millimeter.

Pop these out. Let's do the same thing on the driver's side. All right. Hang on to all of our bolts. Now we inaudible 00:03:37 are going to have 3 pushpin fasteners here. We'll use a flat weight screwdriver, a little pick or something. We're going to pull the core out and then we'll pull that center section out. These act a lot like wall anchors or something like that. They just get in there and spread. With these out, let's get our fasha 00:04:04 removed and let's keep in mind as we do that any electrical connections attached to that, we want to undo those so we don't damage them. If we slide our hand right behind the guard there, we're going to be able to separate the clips here. We just want to kind of push in and pull out at the same time just to try to separate them easily there. Once that pops out it's pretty much loose if we had that done on both sides. Then here on the back side we'll have an electrical connector to get undo, so we'll just push in and we'll get that separated on both sides. Now we're on to the headlights. We're going to remove the top bolt here and the 2 bolts running right down the front here. These are all going to need a 10-millimeter socket. I've loosened the one on the top there, but I'm going to use that to hold the light in place while we get these 2 out. We'll just get that when the light comes out. We've got 1 that runs right here on the side. Pull out forward and we need to separate the 2 connectors that we have here on the back. Little tab, push in on the tab, and give it a wiggle. Now just like our fasha 00:05:53, let's set these aside so they don't get any damage or anything and we'll head over to the passenger side and do the same thing. Now for our washer fluid tank, we're going to remove the 2 electrical fittings that are here, got one and the second one over here on the pump. Then we're going to have 3 bolts. We've got 1 here at the top, we're going to save that for last. This is going to require an 8-millimeter socket. We've got 2 down here that are going to require a 10-millimeter. Just a nut with a washer attached. The second one's going to be a little harder to get to in here, it's kind of down right in front of this white pad for the fender. Before we take the last one off of the top, you can see we've got the 2 hoses here. We're going to separate the hoses just by pulling them off then we can use our hand to kind of keep the washer fluid from running out while we take loose our top bolt here. All right, now let's slowly guide this down and out of place. We'll set that aside until we need it later. Let's get our bumper bolts taken out. This is going to require a 13-millimeter socket. We've got the 2 here on the top and 1 down below. Now we'll still have this small 10-millimeter nut here and the 10-millimeter bolt here holding the bumper in place. We're going to take those out after we get the 13's out of the other side. Now we'll use our 10-millimeter socket. Pull out the bolt there in the top and the nut here on the bottom. Let's head over to the other side. See how that kind of loosens that core support there, so you just make sure that doesn't come down. Now with all those off, we can pull the bumper off. Now let's make our couple of cut lines we'll need to here behind where we just took the bumper off. We'll just kind of use a straight edge and we'll go right down the outside of that circle. Straight down on both sides there. We'll just trim down those lines and then we're ultimately going to bend that tab in. You can see we've got out notch cut out there. If you're using a rotary tool like this, you can just make kind of a false cut across there and that's just going to weaken that steel and help you bend it back and in. You could cut it out completely if you wanted. Or if you're using a reciprocating saw, you'll just cut down, down and then use a hammer, maybe a punch or something to get that ran 00:09:51 in. I'm just going to trim the rest of that off. You can do the same thing at home, just bend it back and forth a few times. Just take this off and that may allow us to get our wrench down and in there. Now let's get our passenger side taken care of. Now we need to get this edge leveled out a little bit. If you look here now, when we put a straight edge across it, there's a little gap right here. What we'll do is use a hammer, we're going to knock it down right along that edge. We just want to make sure we've got a nice, flat surface right across there. A little more back here. All right, now let's go over to the passenger side and do that one too. Now let's get our base plate set up here onto the fring 00:11:10. It's going to slide right in there and it'll slide in the same spot on the other side. What we're going to do here is just check and make sure that we're not going to require any additional trimming of anything or anything like that. You can use a pair of vice grips to hold it up in place or also, I've got just those bumper bolts we took out. We got a couple wires here, we want to make sure those come out on the front side, but all in all it looks pretty good. See this piece of rubber here is kind of bound up a little bit, so we might try to adjust that as we inaudible 00:11:47, but it's not really interfering with anything right now. Since we're not going to require any other modifications or any other trimming, we can just leave our base plate in place using the 2 bolts to hold it there, then we'll drill a couple of the holes that we need. Now we'll start getting out bolts in place. We'll start with a 3/8 by 1-inch bolt here. We're going to use Red Loctite on all of our hardware, so keep that in mind. On this we'll put a flat washer and a locking washer, grab on to the head of the bolt here and then we'll work it right into the hole. It's going to be the bottom hole location, it'll come through the base plate. Once we get that pushed in, we'll take 1 of the flange nuts or whiz nuts they call them and we can start that on the back side. That's what we use to turn that bolt and get our nuts started on the other side here. All right, we got that one started, let's get our one right above it started. Same process, a little Loctite. All right, those are started good, we've got one more to start. This is going to be one of our 1/2-inch bolts, also going to have a lock washer and a flat washer on it. Also going to get Loctite. This is going to go beyond the 2 we just put in, in a hole that's a little bit deeper in the frame there. Now we'll take 1 of the nuts that are welded onto the handle there, welded onto the wire, and we'll start that on that back side. All right, now with our 3 on this side started, let's head over and start our other side. As we go through, we're adding Red Loctite to every bolt and if you refer to the front page of the instructions there, it'll tell you all of the torque specifications that you're going to need for each of these. Remove your hold tab that we had on the nut that we used. Now we'll wrap the permanent safety chain cables. We're going to go in and around the frame of the vehicle here, staying away of the sub frame. We want to keep this away from any kind of moving objects, any of the suspension or anything like that. On this side of the engine you've also got the pulleys and your serpentine belt, so of course we don't want it to make contact there, so be aware. We'll use one of the quick connects, go through both ends of the cable and then through our mounting location. Then we can tighten that down. Double check your routing, make sure you don't have any interference going on anywhere, anything like that, and then we'll go do the same thing on the other side. Now it's time for us to get our radiator support fastened back into the vehicle. We're going to use the bolts that we removed. Remember one was the one that had the false nut about half way down there. That's going to go on the bottom hole location, then this regular bolt goes in the top there. What we'll need to do is us a floor jack or in our case we're just using a foot pedal kind of a support here. We're just going to raise up gently on it, you'll want to use wood, there's a pretty stout corner here, and then it's really easily going to raise up into position. As you can see, doesn't take a lot of force or a lot of effort to get it to go. Once we get our holes lined up here we're going to take our bolts and replace those. Again, some Red Loctite. These will be the same ones we removed earlier. Now let's torque them all down to spec. Now let's get our washer fluid tank back into place. Remember you have to hold your thumb over that black side of that valve or your fluid will run all over the place. I'm just going to replace, this is the 8-mill socket, 8-mill headed bolt. Start it and then get our connections made. I'm going to have to pull that horn 00:16:45 to get it in there. Just quickly pull off that horn side. There are 2 hoses connected there. Slide it down onto our bolts. Now let's get our 2 lower nuts on our reservoir tank put in place there. Let's also tighten our one down up top. Let's be sure to get all of our electrical connections remade. For the headlight assemblies, we just need to remake the connections on the back of here as well. Slide it right up into place and secure it with our bolts. We'll snug these down. Now we're here at the back side of our fasha 00:18:16 cover. Before we put this on, we need to trim a little area here that's going to allow for the components to pass through. We're going to bring it out from the side. Not the first, not the second, but the third time that there's an intersection there, so 1, 2, 3. We're going to cut it off right there and remove the rest of the honeycomb coming back. A sharp razor knife would usually be your best option for this. You just want to be careful because this is going to, it's the grill of the car, so you're going to see it. That part will come out and I'm going to trim this off right here where it starts to thicken up. Once we get it up there we may have to trim it off a little more, we'll just have to see. All right, now do the same thing over here on the other side. Now we'll bring our fasha 00:19:15 back in, test it up there and see if it's going to work. Once we have verified that it is going to slide on, then we need to make our electrical connections for both of our fog lights, so don't forget that. Here you can see on that bottom edge we got a little interference, so we'll just take our knife and just go right around the bottom edge of that receptacle where our removable arms go into place. Now we're going to use a rotary tool and just kind of clean up the edges here to give ourselves a little bit more room and just to allow the hardware to pass through. Then we'll connect our fog lights in the back on both sides there and once we're done with that, we'll just clip this edge in all the way around, making sure our tabs line up as we do. Now we can get all of our fasteners put back in our fasha 00:20:27 panel. Remember here on the top we had 2 bolts. These require the 10-millimeter. Also 4 pushpin fasteners. These are the ones that require the Phillips screwdriver to kind of back them out, but once you get them into position you can really just push down with your finger. With the top all secure let's head underneath. Now we'll bring our 3 pushpin fasteners here into the lower side and then replace the 3 screws we took out as well. Now last one over here on the driver's side. Now with everything back in place and tightened up, that's going to complete today's installation of the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit with the Removable Arms, part number BX2628.


Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Andrew L
Video by:
Andrew L
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.